Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Fog Lamp Failed To Start
May 6, 2016
I've turn the fog lamp switch on, but the fog lamp seems cant start or light up. what should i check 1st?
View 9 RepliesI've turn the fog lamp switch on, but the fog lamp seems cant start or light up. what should i check 1st?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2014 Santa Fe. Noticed the fog lamp light in the gauges does not come on. Got out of the vehicle to check fog lamps both are not working. I am wondering if there is a bulb burnt out in one of them, would that cause them both not to work. Therefore leaving the light in the gauge not to work. I am thinking this may be a feature to tell you there is a bulb burnt out.
View 9 RepliesThis concerns a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L engine.
Bad rain, combined with a puddle splash caused a short (someplace). Vehicle ran poorly on way home and then eventually failed to start. Replaced the Cam Position Sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Checked all wiring and connections. Cleared codes and the vehicle started. Ran for about 15/20 minutes and a P0340 code popped with the engine light on. Car still runs fine. Researched code and learned that this code is a Camshaft Position Sensor A - Circuit Malfunction.
1. Bad ground in Circuit.
2. Open Circuit that fails to close.
3. PCM malfunction.
Questions:
1. Where in this vehicles is the PCM located? Is it within the main ECU in one of the other ECU fuses or an independent fuse?
2. Other than the 3 issues listed above, could I be overlooking anything else?
Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
Yesterday I changed battery after that its seems malfunction indicator lamp stays on, i checked with hyundai service center they told to reset the program then diagnose the problem, then only come to know the issue or not issue they asked 20rial, i m wondering just changed the battery got some issue.
View 4 RepliesI have 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe......approx 10K miles......no major issues to date
Drove my son to school this morning and pulled into a parking spot.....the shifter would not move into PARK......it was stuck....would only go into NEUTRAL and DRIVE....the vehicle was idling
I was a little panicked, but put on the parking brake and called the dealership on the cell.....they told me to pop the cover on the switch near the shifter and and depress the reset button (needed a flat head screw driver).......it took about four tries and then finally worked.....
I shut the vehicle off, restarted it and tried to put the car into REVERSE...to back out of the parking spot......shifter was stuck again.....had to depress the reset button......
Immediately took the car to the dealership where it was DIAGNOSED with a faulty "stop lamp switch".......causing the shifter to stick and the brake lights not to work... this was a recall item for the 2007 Santa Fe, but not the 2008 (that I'm aware of)
Dealership replaced the stop lamp switch and had me in and out in a hour.......but they did not initially give me a write up......i told them this was a very dangerous situation that had just occurred and I wanted a write up.....they happily complied....
So keep a flat head screw driver (glove compartment) in the car and have your dealership take a look at the stop lamp switch, on your next visit, even though it was only recalled on the 2007.......I will also be contacting HYUNDAI directly...
ETA: ESC light was illuminated when I was trying to get the vehicle into PARK from DRIVE......also contacted HYUNDAI and gave them a description of the incident and now have a case number.
A/C in my 2015 ES350 (25K miles) has failed 2 times.
1. Outside temp 92 Deg. I start the car and turn on the A/C. It is pumping hot air. I wait 5 min. It is still pumping hot air. I switch it off and start again. It pumps cold air.
2. Outside temp 94 Deg. I start the car and turn on the A/C. It is pumping hot air. I turn it off and on. No luck continued to pump hot air. Next morning out side temp 77 Deg. I start the A/C works fine.
I took it to the dealer. He says unless he can see the failure he cannot do any thing.
I've had a couple issues where the car struggles to start in the morning after a cold night. 2.0 ultimate, btw. It isn't a cranking issue, it just struggles to turn over. Both times its done it, it seemed like it took 2-3 seconds longer to start than it should of. Was right on the edge of turning over but wouldn't. My non professional opinion was that it seemed like it wasn't getting enough gas to turn over.
What could be the issue. I will not have time to take it in to be looked at as I'm starting a new job next week and don't get any time off. Unless it fails to start completely, I'll deal for now.
I have a 2005 Santa Fe which I brought brand new in 2005. After 48,000 the transmission was shot, the fluid was black it was a mess. I had the tranny serviced at about 30,000 miles and thought everything was ok. My dealer replaced the tranny under warranty and said it failed, thats it. Ok.....64,000 miles later the second transmission just failed. Keep in mind the dealer serviced the transmission twice and now this one is shot. Being out of warranty, Hyundai wants me to pay for a new one, I opted to get it rebuilt at a local shop. My question is other that why aren't these transmissions lasting, am I alone or this quite common.
View 2 RepliesHow to replace the bulbs of the rear high mount stop lamp on a 2009 Santa Fe?
I got the bulbs already, located the 2 nuts on the inside directly behind the brake light, but when I remove them, the assembly won't pop out.
I know the manual says they recommend getting these particular bulbs replaced at an authorized Hyundai dealer, but since I already bought the bulbs, I'd like to try and do it myself if at all possible.
Has happened several time recently. Turn the key and everything works but the car doesn't turn over, not a sound. After a couple tries it works fine. Starter or switch?
View 14 RepliesA few weeks ago my passenger side low-beam failed to come on during a short road trip. After a failed attempt to find a replacement at 9PM I had no choice but to continue on my way, about an hour later, as I was driving along, it suddenly came back on with no trouble since. I haven't touched any wires or fuses.
View 3 RepliesWhen the temperature drops below -20 Celsius, I find the transmission shifts weird just after start up. It seems like it goes into second, then third normally, then abruptly drops back into second. I'm pushing very lightly on the gas pedal, so the drop down is weird. A couple times the nav was blank on start up.
View 8 RepliesAny way to set the seat heaters to turn on when the car is remote started?
View 42 RepliesWe just swapped engines on a 2014 Santa Fe Sport but it won't start now. Old engine had 70k miles, new one has 25 k miles. Wondering if the swap could have tripped a fuel shutoff switch or something simple. Its not throwing any codes, but I think it has to run first before it would give a reading. Turns over but wont start. Previous engine ran but had internal lower engine problems and metal in the oil. There is plenty of spark but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel. We hear the fuel pump prime so we know that works.
View 9 RepliesDriver's seat is stuck in partial recline mode. It goes down, but won't come back up...
View 4 RepliesI had my dealership install a car starter when I purchased my 2014 Santa Fe a year and a half ago. I noticed that this blue flashing light constantly flashes up by the rearview mirror. It looks like an anti theft device which it isn't' and really bothers me especially at night because it lights up the whole dash. How to disable this and still keep the remote functional?
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 Passat Wagon has a weird problem. Sometimes, it failed to start engine. The only signal on the panel is the red battery sign. I need to reinsert the key and try again. It does not happen every time.
View 19 RepliesHave a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.
Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.
I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror. There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs. That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.
There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there
If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.
* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here.
Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts. I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...). If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this. Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.
I've got a 2005 with almost 300,000 miles and just recently the A/C blower has intermittently failed to start up. However, if I give the console a smack on the driver's side of the nav screen the unit usually starts up.
Now, I am assuming it is the start of an electric motor failure in the A/C Blower unit, however, the blower is apparently located under the passenger side glove box. So I am wondering if that is whee the blower is why does smaking the driver side of the nav screen start up the motor?
My daughter has a 1997 Taurus SHO and it's been running pretty well until this morning when a turn of the key failed to start the engine. The battery is fully charged but when she turns the key, we get the click from several places under the hood, including the starter relay. I'm pretty sure it's the starter relay, it's inside of the fuse box, is identified as "starter" on the guide printed inside of the cover and is black plastic about 1.5 inches square. The windows, radio, horn and all of the other accessories work, but no reaction to the key.
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