I have a 2013 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T and every once in a while I get a lit icon that says my gas cap is lose even if it isn't. It may stay on for several minutes or until car is shut off and restarted.
View 8 RepliesMy 05 Lincoln ls is giving false door ajar warning messages whilst driving. it doesn't happen at all times, just often enough to be annoying. I believe this is what is causing the alarm to go off intermittently when i leave it locked. Is there anything, short of taking it to a professional, that i can do to fix this?
View 3 RepliesDo any of you get a low tire pressure warning light even though all the tire pressure show as being fine?
Annoying that warning light comes on and it high lights tire pressure in yellow even though the tire it high lights actually has more psi than some of the other tires.
This all started more than a month ago. Our 13' GTI would cool off (temp gauge would drop) at idle. This did not take long, I could sit and watch the needle drop in a matter of just a few minutes. Next, the car would lose heat while driving. It could be 20 miles into a trip, and if you slowed down to say ~30 mph i.e., coasting to a stop, or slowing until a light changed the car would lose its heat. At one point, driving in heavy traffic, the car had no heat. Fan on 2, heat all the way up, at best you'd get luke warm if not cold air. Recirc did not make a difference. It simply struggles to stay up to temp, even under load.
The thermostat, water pump, check valve, and heater core have all been replaced by the dealership in an effort to fix the problem. I understand a small loss of heat idling with the heat up when its -15 out. My R actually cooled off a little bit the other day after idling (at 190 aka temp) for about 20 minutes. It was -15 and windy. The GTI isnt keeping heat, is slow to heat up, and randomly drops heat.
What am I missing here? This seems like a thermostat problem, however the thermostat was replaced! (they broke the water pump trying to replace the thermostat so that is new as well) It as never leaked coolant, it doesn't leak coolant, there are no codes thrown. The only modifications to the car is a raceland down pipe I installed myself. They have questioned if the down pipe could be causing this issue, which I highly doubt.
What kind of damage could this cause? Not staying up to temp, and being driven.
I have an 02 2.4 gas SF. After a good while, the car will run rough, lose power and will not take any throttle. As if it is starving for fuel. But it will idle fine and if it does stall, will restart. On a hill, I have to drop into first and keep it at 1000 RPM (yikes!)
If I keep going with very little throttle, it may resolve itself. It is always fine after a complete cool down. I checked for vacuum in the tank by opening the filler while it was misbehaving. I have a new CPS, new coil packs, new filters. I've have enough gas fill ups to eliminate water in the gas.
It has thrown no codes. I went ahead and ordered a MAF sensor and a cam position sensor...just guessing. (it had failed emissions which I resolved by cleaning the MAF.)
...when i checked the dipstick the level looked fine. Should i try to add 1/4 of a quart and see if the warning goes away? I last changed te oil at 15K miles 1 month ago (Now have just over 19k)
I drove from Boston to Florida and back (great long distace cruiser and this was with my wife and two kids!) without any problems. The low oil indicator came on the day after i returned from the trip (this past Sunday). After i checked the dipstick and started the engine the warning went away. Today i drove to a friends house (~10 miles) and when i went to leave the warning came back on.
Is it possile that there could there be a faulty sensor?
Would a corroded throttle body cause a false code P0332 knock sensor.
View 4 RepliesI have been experiencing intermittent false activation of the ABS when I come to an almost complete stop. This allows the car to drift just a little further than desired. This started happening following a front brake job with a right caliper replacement as well. None of this caused the ABS light to come on. I did some net searches and followed recommendations to pull and clean the front sensors and reinstalled them. This resulted in the ABS light coming on. Oh goodie! So, I went to Advance Auto Parts and used their code reader and it showed the right sensor failure, so I bought a hub assembly to replace the sensor and cable.
It was only $20 more for the hub over the cable alone, so it was a no-brainer to me. I replaced the hub and no more light! Great! Upon the test drive, I was back to the slow speed false ABS activation. There goes $120 for nothin'! All of this is on dry pavement. Recently, after three months of the ABS thing, my 4WD HI & LO lights began to flash - 6 times each time and repeats regularly (every 3 minutes or so). My HI lock works, but I have yet to get the LO lock to engage (the auto lock has never worked on this vehicle since I had gotten it).
I'm close to purchasing a 2014 RX 450h and thought I wanted PCS, but am not sure about the false positives. For all of you that have PCS, do you get false positives causing alarms and braking to happen for no reason? I ask because I am probably going to special order one and am debating on adding this feature or not.
On a quick side note - it appears that the automatic braking will happen on all RX's except for the RXh AWD. Why not? I don't know, and Lexus people couldn't answer my question either.
Every so often when I open the rear window, my MFI will report it "open" even when it's not. Thus far the only solution I have found is that I have to exit the vehicle re-open and re-close the rear window. I have checked the rear window to see if it was open or loose - but it's been secured each time.
View 1 RepliesFor three months. I have a problem overheating false indication. I changed the water pump, the thermostat, the cooling radiator, the temperature sensor.
When driving with more than 110 kilometers, and turn on the lights, the temperature rises. The same is done with any electric charge, air conditioning etc.
If I reduce the speed of about 70-80 kilometers then the temperature begins to fall.
Note that I measure the temperature on the temperature sensor base, with a digital thermometer and while the temperature gauge was almost in the red field, the temperature showing the digital thermometer was 88-90 Celsius degrees.
2002 W8 Wagon Automatic with 55,000 miles. Second instance of Check Engine Light (MIL) in three months. Nothing wrong, supposedly. Dealer writeup says: "MIL checked and found sporadic codes in 46, 15 module, cleared codes and road tested, checked ok."
View 23 RepliesMy v8 2004 shows on and off L front flat tire caution sign. (may be once a week or so for last 1 month)it happens usually when i start driving in cold weather usually. when i turn my vehicle sign the pressure system is usually ok. i have checked the tire pressure and it is fine and it drives fine. What is wrong and do i need to take it to the delaer.
View 6 RepliesLately, I am getting the uncomfortable "beep" and a "Check brake lights" message every time I get cough in a traffic jam and guess what: I checked the break lights and everything is OK. It took me sometime to be able to check the lights when the fault is on because usually it disappears after 30 seconds or so. Off course, when I take it to the dealer we cannot reproduce the problem (is not every time I break, is only when a break a lot of times in a short period of time looks like something is overheating) . The beep is driving me crazy!
View 9 RepliesI'm having difficulties fueling my vehicle. The fuel pump will shut off every few seconds indicating the tank is full, but it is definitely not full at all. With this, I have to carefully insert the pump into the tank only a little way and generally I can hear the gas bubbling up and eventually spilling over onto the ground, and me. This method takes about 10-15 minutes to completely fill the tank.
I have replaced the vapor canister vent valve and was given another part with two ends connecting by two wires (see attached) that I couldn't locate on the car to replace, so I still have it in my tool box. After replacing the one item, it did not fix the problem.
I am working on my friend's '02 Explorer 4x4 with 4.6L engine with 122k on it, the dash is telling him that he has low oil pressure. When it first came on he was an hour away from home, what he told me he did was pull over and checked his oil level right away. He found that it was still full and since the engine wasn't making noises he resumed his trip home. During the drive home he said the dummy oil pressure gauge would read normal then drop all of a sudden then come back up again after so long.
When he got back home he changed the sending unit plus the oil and filter and his Explorer still reads as if it has no oil pressure. The needle does not read anymore, he noted to me when he pulled the filter off it looked like it did not have the normal amount of oil inside it. I did not get to see it so I can not verify that. When he starts it it kind of sounds like it has to fill the filter every time like a fresh oil change, rattles around for a second then smooths out and sounds good..
So is his oil pump to blame for the light being on or is there something wrong with the gauge in the cluster? I have not hooked a mechanical gauge up to where the sending unit threads into so I don't know how much pressure it actually has. If not the oil pump what could be the cause? My other friend and I looked at the oil that came out of the new filter and we thought we saw metal specs in the oil. Is it new engine city time? It has such low miles to need an engine.
I have a 2004 Solara. Ever since I could remember, the outside thermometer has been giving me false readings. When I pulled out of my garage today, the outside thermometer read 50 degrees. I drove to work without stopping for 60 miles and the gauge still read 50 degrees. When I got to work, the gauge quickly dropped to 41 degrees.
This problem has happened many time before. When the car is in motion, the temperature will not change. When the car comes to a stop, then it will adjust. Where is the sensor for the thermometer? Maybe the air is not reaching it due to the high speed.
Got a recall letter last January from Toyota concerning a false warning light on my model. Letter mentioned that moisture in the cables was triggering a false warning message about the main battery. My 2002 was having this problem. The dealer refused to do the work. Told me they did that recall work in 2006 but I did not have the problem back then and Servco Hawaii told me that Toyota had not put that out as a recall back then. The light has gone off and on now for a year. Car drives perfect otherwise and only have 60,000 miles on it. What do I do?
View 8 RepliesSo on my vr6 gti I have been getting the dash alerts that my driver's door, right rear door (It''s a two door so this confuses me as well), and my trunk is open. Well none of those things are open.
It fixed itself somehow a while back but when someone moved my car and used the spare valet key, the problem started all backup. I have to turn my interior lights off and I took out the little sound dinger in the HUD so it would stop beeping and drive me nuts.
I have recently purchased this 2012 Gen 3 Prius JDM imported from Japan. It is with LED parking lights and HID low beam. At day there is no issue with lights Off, even no issue on parking lights On but as soon as the headlights are turned On i get the fault indicator and some warning in Japanese language on inner screen. Apparently, all lights, on the other hand, are working fine.
When i took the car to repair shop, they installed the diagnostic computer and it showed B2430 and B2431, LED headlight RH and LH, whereas my model is with HID headlights, not LED headlights. At day its ok, i get normal info on inner info screen but at night this error triangle and error message keeps showing instead of normal info and is a cause of fear for me as well because i dont know how serious it may become.
I got a SFS 2.0 Turbo 2014 about 20 days ago. The car is back with black interior and navigation package.
Since day 1 I had noticed that the fan always blows hot air, no matter what the outside temperature is. Air conditioner cools the car sufficiently, but low temperature setting on the thermostat is needed.I feel the fan is pulling hot air from the engine compartment.
I am due for a service in about 30 days.