i have a 2014 Santa Fe 2.0t awd. When I first bought it it was getting 320-340 miles a tank after having it for 6 months now we are down to 250-260. The engine feels sluggish, however no codes, no change in driving habits.
View 11 RepliesI have owned a 2003 v10 triton f-250 now for 8 years and when I first got the rig I was getting 11.5 mpg mixed driving. As the years and miles went on the mileage got worse and worse and now I'm lucky to get 4.5 mpg.
View 14 RepliesWhen you press on the accelerator the car feels very sluggish it only has 61,000 miles
View 3 RepliesWhat could be the issue at hand here. I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
View 4 RepliesWhile the car is at a full stop it idles at 500 rpm. I am assuming this is normal. But randomly the accelerator dips and the entire car jerks and feels like the engine is going to choke.
This started happening when the vehicle was at 10K miles and I took it to the dealer but the problem did not repeat itself there. They said they ran all sorts of diagnostics and came up with nothing. At this time the problem would occur may be a few times a week, while waiting at a red light, etc.
Now the vehicle is a 30K miles and it is happening more frequently. Several times a day.
I recorded a video of it to better explain the problem.
I just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
Experienced sluggish acceleration with their "09" Santa Fe. I have the 2.7 liter 6 cyl. engine and it seems so sluggish when accelerating. I have replaced all the plugs with some best rated ones specific to my model. I have tried one of the best rated fuel system cleaners. It still seems to have no pep, my daughter's 1999 Honda has far more get up and go.
View 7 Replies2 nights ago I was driving around the neighborhood. I was coming down a small hill to a stop sign where I could only make a right or a left. I proceeded to turn right and a dog ran in front of the car. I swerved to the left, managing to not hit the dog but run flat into the sidewalk. In the moment it felt like my bumper had just scraped the edge and it sounded like I had just scatched the bottom of the bumper. I proceeded down the street for about 2-3 minutes before my car started slowing down. The engine was still on but when I pushed down on the pedal to accelerate the engine just revved.
When I looked down to see if maybe I had knocked the car into neutral, I couldn't move the shifter and it appeared to be stuck in reverse? When I tried pulling my car to the side of the road I found that now my steering wheel was also locked up and could barely tug it enough to get it moved over. Finally, I made it to the side of the road and now my brakes were locked as well. I managed to stop it with the e-brake but still the shifter wouldn't budge to put it in park. I turned the car off to avoid damaging the engine. I didn't address this problem immediately so I came back the following day to check it out, and couldn't get the car to turn over. I had power, the battery was fine, the engine wouldn't even make a noise like it was trying.
Eventually I looked underneath the car and saw the oil leaking from what I believe is the oil pan? This is my first car and know absolutely nothing about how an engine works. Could this be a computer response so that the engine doesn't seize? Again, the brakes, the gear shifter,and the steering wheel are all locked and won't budge. I used the emergency release lever to realease the gear shifter and was able to pull it into neutral and start the engine but I had to hold the shifter firmly the whole time and if I let go it would pop back into reverse(but it still rolls forward like it's in neutral?). Is this something a warranty or insurance would cover? Hopefully this is just the oil pan because I do not have a fraction of the money to get my transmission or engine entirely replaced.. It's a 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE with 45k miles on it.
I have a 2013 es350 with ~24k miles. Their is an annoying vibration when the A/C is turned on when the car is stopped. The car has a very minor slight vibration at all times that gets a little worse when in 'D' gear at idle. However once the A/C is turned on i can feel the wheel, seats and center console vibrate, especially while in the 'D' gear. To elaborate i can feel it around the car and easily notice the vibration. As soon as i turn the A/C off the vibration goes away and is back to normal. I understand that the A/C puts a strain on the car.
View 9 RepliesJust bought a 2001 santa fe, 2.7 v-6, automatic trans, 2 wheel drive, new tires, 120,000mi. Got a great deal, don't want to negate that by nickle and dimming. 3 weeks ago noticed a howling from drivers front at speed, pitch changes with wheel speed not rpm so i figured wheel bearing. Took both front tires off with vehicle firmly supported and put vehicle in drive and increased rpm. The noise is not at hub but at other end where the shaft attaches to transaxle. I figured there would be an "axle bearing" or some such i could replace but I can find no reference of one, and my book doesn't have break down of the transaxle. Where can i find more information, schematics, etc? I hope I don't have to remove transaxle to have one pressed in.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2.2 CRDI Manual - new 2010 model - bought from new approx 16 months ago. Live in UK. Quite a few problems, which is a shame as I love the car. Tonight's question is about the clutch. Became increasingly difficult/impossible to get into 1st when cold, and wasn't clearing so car would slightly jolt forwards. Dealer had it in and replaced ?Slave cylinder. No better. Went in yet again for a week. This time ?replaced Clutch ?wheel (staff not that communicative, or apologetic, and ps had to also replace both front drive shafts too as clicking ++). Now at least the car is easier to get into gear, but pedal rather sponge like and significant "judder" when setting off in 1st at lowish revs, and worse when reverses. Surely this can't be normal - it's a new car after all. Back to the dealer later in the week, but what do I do if I become unhappy with the dealer?
View 4 RepliesI have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
Sometimes I find my 2013 Camry is not accelerating as expected and I feel the car is dragging. However, I don't see this issue always. However, it often ever now and then.
Is there any issue with the engine ?
I have a 2013 GTI (which I love) however the steering feels like it sticks very slightly. If I hold the wheel on center then apply a little pressure to turn if pops off center about 1/8 of inch and then moves fine. As long as I keep moving it, its fine. If I stop for about five seconds it sticks again. This really faint but annoying. It reminds me of an old recirculating ball steering system where the wheel had slop in it.
View 4 RepliesI own a 2005 grand am se, (v6) this engine rattle has been going on for a while now (6 months+) the rattle really hasn't gotten any worse in that time, I uploaded a video to youtube as I'm kind of stumped as to what it could be, to me it almost sounds like something is lose..haha or maybe that's just wishful thinking, it would definitely be great if it weren't the engine itself making that noise.
View 9 RepliesI am getting unusual noise from engine bay. I first thought it's the belt but doesn't seem like it. I am scheduled to visit a dealership but would like to get informed as much as I can.
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The past couple weeks, my '03 Santa Fe 2.7 has begun to grind a while before starting -especially when weather is hot and has been sitting a while. Once it starts, all is normal. Most of the time it starts right up -no problem. This just happens once in a while. Slowly, it seems to be getting worse. I replaced battery -no change. ...................???
View 28 RepliesLoving our new SF, but have noticed a problem periodically when starting out from a dead stop. When the accelerator is pushed, sometimes there is a hesitation in the engine. Almost feels like the gas has been restricted for a second, then it engages and goes. I've notified the dealer and plan to have them look into it at my first oil change, but it is happening more frequently and think it may be something I need to get looked at sooner than later.
View 61 RepliesHaving issue where the tailgate will not open if the key is in ignition and the engine is on? My tailgate stays locked and I tried to use the keyfob and nothing....I had to turn the ignition off in order for it to open.
View 10 RepliesComing home this morning the "Caution you're running on Battery power" warning came on several times. At next start all seemed back to normal.
View 9 RepliesModel is 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7L
A month ago I started noticing it was sluggish to shift from P to R/D but i had no issues starting in P mode and the car would drive fine. I thought it might due to cold weather so didn't think of it too much.
Two weeks ago it was really hard to shift the gear from P mode and I nearly got stuck in middle of the road unable to shift from R to D. I applied a lot of force on the shifter and it finally budged into D and car drove with no issues. I parked and did my chores came back and the car would not start at all.I put the car in N and it started and was hard to shift back in D but I drove home without any other issues.
It died again in my drive way but this time the gear was nearly impossible to shift and I thought I almost broke it and the panel was not registering it was in P and the key was stuck in the ignition. After messing around for some time I was able to get it into N and put my hand brake on left the key in the ignition and disconnected the battery.
Today I opened the center console & battery tray these are my findings. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position.
1. The shifter moves freely once the linkage is disconnected by removing the tiny pin.
2. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position. Once I manually adjusted it I was able to start the car.
3. I reconnected the linkage pin, make sure the inhibitor switch was in N position and started the car but it was again nearly impossible to switch to P/R/D
4. My brake lights work fine.
5. I was able to remove the key once I completely disconnected the battery.
What can be the issue here ? Inhibitor switch ? The shifter assembly ? Linkage?