Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Electronic Park Brake Does Not Immediately Release As It Should On Takeoff
Mar 25, 2013
I have had my new Santa Fe Elite for three weeks. On three occasions I have found the Electronic Park Brake does not immediately release as it should on takeoff. Why it stays on some times? My vehicle is Right Hand Drive.
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Ok so this is the problem now, i went to check my fuses and pulled a #20 out to see if the cigarette lighter fuse was blown. Guess what? i start the car and all of a sudden the Electronic Parking brake failure kicked on. I tried to get the car out and now it won't get out of park! FML i heard that you can just unplug the battery for 15 min and that should reset the car but who knows... I got vw roadside coming to see what they can do it might need to get towed though
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2013 Tiguan SEL
Battery is dead and electronic parking brake is engaged. Hooked up a battery jumper and still am unable to release the brake. Is there a mechanical workaround to disengage the electronic parking brake?Need to be able to get the Tiguan out of my garage in order for a tow truck to take it to the dealer to address an overall electrical issue that is cause the car to lose power... hence the dead battery.
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I have a 92 Park Ave and the right front brake caliper will squeeze then release pressure even while holding the brake pedal down, which does not go to the floor, the left front brake is doing most of the stopping. I have bleed that caliper but still same problem. Is the ABS module proportioning wrong? By the way, the brake pads are brand new.
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my park brake will work when pushed to the floor but when i pull the release lever it will not disengaged.
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I've recently noticed that my 2013 hyundai sonata would start vibrating/shaking, if I were to release my brakes slowly (It doesn't shake if I release it fast). I was wondering if there are any problems with that?
I do not feel any vibration in the car when I press /slam the brake. The only time I feel the car shaking is when I would slowly release the brake.
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Is it all the lexus rx350 had that noise? From the day I noticed hissing noise when I gentally press the brake pedal down and release it . And same noise can be heard when drive slowly and release gas pedal.
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After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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'17 Ultima has the "New Stero" syndrome... 300km and when I got home today turning if off resulted in ACC instead with message to Shift to P.
Still at the dealer. Can't figure it out... Everything, well almost everything I guess, says it's in Park. Swapping parts is next.
At least it was still doing it when I got to the dealer. I just hope they find the offending component and that it doesn't turn into a 'self-healer', waiting to do it again. Dealer says first time they have encountered it...
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It was discovered last night that the third brake light (or Center High Mounted Stop Lamp/CHMSL) on our SF flashes a few times before going solid when I brake. I did a little searching and it seems that it is not legal in TX, so I guess I get to put in a call to the dealer today.
From what the interwebs say, it seems to be something dealers do as an added "safety feature" (and I even found research that shows it does get attention better than solid lights). There's a lot out there about people wanting to install this feature, and there are companies that do this for you. But I've never seen it on the road myself, and to be honest, it's kind of annoying. And the TX code is not the clearest, but I think it's saying "no flashing lights unless you're a bus."
Here's what I found from the TX transportation code:
(c) A person may not operate a motor vehicle equipped with a red, white, or blue beacon, flashing, or alternating light unless the equipment is:
(1) used as specifically authorized by this chapter; or
(2) a running lamp, headlamp, taillamp, backup lamp, or turn signal lamp that is used as authorized by law.
(d) A vehicle may be equipped with alternately flashing lighting equipment described by Section 547.701 or 547.702 only if the vehicle is:
(1) a school bus;
(2) an authorized emergency vehicle;
(3) a church bus that has the words "church bus" printed on the front and rear of the bus so as to be clearly discernible to other vehicle operators;
(4) a tow truck while under the direction of a law enforcement officer at the scene of an accident or while hooking up to a disabled vehicle on a roadway; or
(5) a tow truck with a mounted light bar which has turn signals and stop lamps in addition to those required by Sections 547.322, 547.323, and 547.324, Transportation Code.
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Sounds like worn out brake pads but it is way before they are supposed to get worn out. Took it to dealer they said brakes still have a lot left on them, but it still squeaks like crazy every time I stop. Taking it to dealer again. I am thinking something is defective, pads or rotors, as I just heard another new Santa fe have the exact same squeaking as they were driving along. My car is at 30k km.
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2014 SFS 2.0T with only 8,000 kilometers...
I went out into the garage last night and noticed the Santa Fe brake lights were on. No other lights, just the right, left, and the upper brake lights. I tapped the brake pedal several times, I started the car and put it through a couple gear changes, turned the other lights on and off, but the brake lights remained on.
The brake lights would get a little brighter when the pedal was pushed. The brake lights would also flicker once in awhile. I'm thinking a short somewhere so I have disconnected the battery until I can call the dealer tomorrow.
The only thing I have added to this car is a Curt Hitch and wire plug (plug and play, no splicing). This was more than 6 months ago and there has been no problems.
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I have a Hyundai Tuscon 2005 with 140K automatic transmission. Original Owner and has treated me well. Current issue is the transmission will not engage in reverse or park immediately when shifted most notably first thing in the morning or in the late evening after sitting for a while. It acts as if it is in neutral until it engages after revving the engine for a while. Once it engages, it is a little sporadic for a few minutes and then all is fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I start, stop or turn the car on or off.
Runs like a champ until the next morning and it starts all over again. A couple of times the check engine light has come on and I can tell that the transmission is stuck in 3rd gear. I can't manually get it to go up to 4th or down to 1 or 2. I can clear the code and then all is back to normal again with normal shifting again available. Short of a transmission rebuild (whihe probably won't happen) could it be electronic in nature since it comes and goes?
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord with an automatic transmission and recently I've started having some problems. About 3 weeks ago I noticed that, when I parked my car and put the shifter in "Park", the shifter became locked in this position. In other words, I cannot release the shifter from "Park" unless I use the car key to unlock the shifter. So, I started parking my car in neutral (there are few hills in my area) so that I didn't have to unlock the shifter each time. Occasionally I park the car in "Reverse" (after turning the car off), although I have to put the car in neutral to start it up.
Today I started my car and noticed that I had very little acceleration. In fact, when I was on a slight incline, waiting to pull out into an intersection, it was difficult to keep my car from rolling backward. Also, when I pulled out into the intersection, it accelerated very slowly and took much longer than usual to get up to normal speed. However, after the car sat for 5 hours afterward, I started it and it began accelerating normally once again. This is the first time I've had this problem with the car.
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Any Manual release for this.. say if the battery goes dead or the car gets flodded.. Basically no power.. a situation happened the other day and with the flood and all damage occurred.. and tow truck could not get the e-brake out with the electronic braking system...
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Trying to find a bit of information for my dad. He has a 2008 F250 with the 6.4L PS. It recently started making this horrible screech on his initial take off from park. After he let's off the gas and brakes, the truck won't make this noise again for the rest of the time it's on. He ended up replacing the turbo, and that did not resolve the issue. I believe the Y pipe was checked and it was fine. What it could be that would cause it only on the first acceleration?
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'13 Sonata GLS w/ 4100 miles - when snow was on the ground 4 days ago, the ESC symbol would occasional flash indicating loss of traction (I was sort of pushing it around some corners for fun) and it seemed to correct throttle, etc. - everything working as it should.
Then yesterday on the commute home with nothing on the ground the light came on and stayed on while driving local & highway. This morning's start-up it was gone. Commute home and it came on again 5 minutes into the drive. But again another restart the light doesn't stay on.
I tried reading codes with an OBD scanner but it says NO CODE - the light is currently off, but was hoping it stored something. Manual says possible ESC malfunction if the light stays on, but it's been erratic.
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Having issue when you park the car and don't turn off the car immediately, the suspension will not lower even with the Easy Access on?
I'm not sure if there is a setting or how long is the timer, but it happened to me many times already after I stop and put it in Park, but didn't kill the ignition immediately and went to check my messages first, the car will stay in Normal position when you turn off the car later
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My 2008 FX4 won't disengage from park without depressing the manual release (white button). Center console shifter interlock. All I need to know is the part number for that solenoid. None of my local parts stores have a clue and I don't trust my local stealerships.
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2013 RH450. I have had several incidents with the electronic key in the car, when I return to get into the vehicle the driver side door is locked. Other doors seem to be open. This concerns me because there is the possibility I could be locked out of the vehicle. Called Lexus and they did not understand how this can happen.
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Notice a clunk noise when brake applied and first it seems when the car is turning right, but now I think as long as the surface is uneven it would do that as long as the brake is applied at the same time. It's a 2014 Sport Ltd.
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