Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Clunking Form Rare Brakes With Every Pedal Application At 6,000 Km
Nov 21, 2015
The last few days, my neck of the woods has seen the first taste of winter. Had to make a 4 hour highway trip today, of which the last 2 hours involved driving over ice-packed and slushy roads, mixed with salt and sand. Needless to say, the body and undercarriage are a real mess.
When I made it to my destination, I noticed a clunking from the rear brakes with every pedal application. As my thread title indicates, the car has only 6,000 km. Also, I am very gentle on brakes. I'm not the type of driver who speeds up to a traffic light or stop sign, then slams on the brakes.
I'm thinking (hoping) the cause of the clunking is some wintery road crap has found it's way into the brakes. I guess I'll find out after a trip to the car wash.
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Brakes are too agressive on the Passat 3.6L 4Motion? Seems like the initial application, especially at slower speeds is too jerky. You have to be very soft on the pedal so as to not get your passengers hit the dash...
While you do want brakes that grab, I think that the modulation needed is beyond most drivers talent in order to execute a smooth stop without jerking.
I track my other car, so I'm familiar with brake modulation and race pads but again for a normal driver, this does not seem normal. The Audi A6 Bi-turbo is much smoother.
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My wifes 08 santa fe awd has started to make a subtle clunking that I can feel through the gas pedal. At first I thought it was the AWD system but now it seems to be getting more frequent and noticeable.
I have searched and see that the front stabilizer bars have had issues with this year. Is the thump I am experiencing possible a sign of this?
If so how long would that be covered under warranty. The 3/36 has just expired on us.
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I have a 2000 ford excursion limited when i drive a loud clunking noise comes from the front end, so i pulled the front passenger tire off and realized what looks like the axle bearing behind the hub assembly is rattling around. What part is that. I am going to post a picture tomorrow in the day light.
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My wife and I have a 2016 SFS 2.0 and with 20k on it. We have noticed while riding down bumpy roads we can feel something loose in the steering via the steering wheel, and a clunking in the drivers front.
Also the car started making a BRRR noise while braking and turning for about 1 second. Only makes the noise when braking and turning at the same time.
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I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2005 2.7L 4WD ABS.
The problem is that the Brakes pedal is so soft, that it goes to the floor, and doesn't brake at all in first pedaling. I am able to apply brakes after pumping the pedal thrice in continuation and then when it builds up some pressure, then it brakes and I'm able to stop the car. Once, I take the foot out of the pedal, it goes bad again. Once, again if I have to apply brakes, I have to do 3-4 times pedaling.
The brakes are stopping the car fine when they get applied in 3rd or 4th pedaling and when pressure is built up. Its the pressure not getting built up or maintained in the first go.
What has been done by the mechanics to solve this:
1. Master Cylinder has been replaced with a new one. (This has been done twice)
2. Brake Pads have been changed.
3. Brake fluid has been replaced and is upto the brim in cylinder reservoir.
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So for the last month when I hit the brake pedal I've been getting a creaking noise in the pedal and the brakes don't seem as good. Within the last 6 months I've replaced the rotors, calipers and pads on the front and back. Starting last week when driving between 0-40 mph the ABS has started to engage on its own without even touching the brake pedal. So I've pulled the 2 ABS fuses and I no longer have the creaking noise when hitting the pedal and of course without the ABS its no longer engaging on its own. I've checked both the tone rings in the front and both of them are fine. I also now have a cel with code 0501 and I'm guessing that is because the ABS is currently disconnected. Is it safe to assume that the ABS Pump also known as the hydraulic electronic control unit has gone bad and needs to be replaced?
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I bought my SF 2013 Limited just less than 3 weeks ago. The car was fine but now all of sudden started to emit metallic grinding/friction noise when I press the gas pedal.
Dealer tech thought that it is bad drive shaft, but after changing it, it didn't solve the problem. Thought that rotor splash guards and maybe pads were to tight, that still didn't solve it.
To put this in perspective:
The sound comes only when I press the gas pedal and increases with the speed. It sound like cymbals and with speed it sound like a cricket. Noise comes from the bottom of the car and you can only hear it if your windows are down and car is passing sound reflection objects on the side, like other cars, concrete dividers, or parked vehicles.
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My 18 year old daughter has a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe that I owned for 8 years before passing down to her. Just recently she was driving when all 4 brakes locked up and the brakes began to smoke when she attempted to drive it to a location where she could pull over. The pedal went all the way to the floor. ABS light is on. Had a tow truck bring it to my brother's house. The tow truck guy was able to back it off his truck and it stopped fine. Later when my brother test drove it, the same problem occurred. My brother replaced the Master Cylinder but it didn't work.
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I noticed this strange behavior this afternoon on my SantaFe DM. Every time I press the break pedal, the front position lights turn on during daylight. Light switch is set on Auto.
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My previous cars with adaptive cruise control didn't do this, but when the vehicle brakes itself, there is a very loud click. I'm assuming it's normal operation, but figured I'd ask here anyways.
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Recently I began hearing noise such as a rattle on the right front of the vehicle. It is a 2003 SF 2.7L front wheel drive with almost 180k mi. At first I thought the noise was from the Serp belt tensioner. Now I believe it originates from the compressor clutch.
Does the a/c clutch have a history with its bearings ? Is the clutch replaceable on the compressor or is this a single unit replacement ?
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I have a 2013 GS 350 and I think the display is kind of wasted space most of the time. The default view is to show the map which is in terrible resolution and the navigation is too cumbersome to be useful. When I need navigation I use google maps which obeys voice commands, is always up to date and has traffic flow information.
Is there a way to hack the nav screen to be more useful? Perhaps display items from the phone? Maybe some other use while driving?
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I have a click/clunk in my front brakes, passenger side. Happens mostly braking and turning right into my driveway. It was recently attributed to a strut bearing, but this was not the case, and their replacement didn't fix the problem.
Dealer has said it's a common noise and occurs after service. The only way to stop the noise is to stop lubing the calipers so they drag.
I say they are full of crap. This has now been going on at least 30k km. I have documented it on every oil change that I can remember (always at the dealer). Any way I should be handling it?
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I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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If this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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My V10 is about 8 months old with 14,000 miles. Have only had a few minor problems up till now - periodic tire pressure gauge malfunctions, and a nav system that resets itself, requiring the 4 digit security code to be input. Recently though, it developed what feels like a computer assisted drivetrain problem. At 30-50 MPW with light application of power, the car "shudders" - it feels like riding over rough pavement. If I give it full throttle, it will kick down, accelerate to about 80 MPH @ 3500RPM, rumble like hell, and won't go any faster. If a let off the pedeal, it smooths out again. This has happened a couple of times, then mysteriously cures itself. It is going into the shop next week, but I don't have my hopes up that this intermittent problem will be acting up in front of the doctor.
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My V6 3.0 TDI 2007 car is basically just driving fine, however occasionally i did noticed (when cold) a rare hiccup in accelerator response from standstill. Today i made a scan on VCDS, and found this engine fault, what could it be? The car is officially and recently maintained by VW dealer.
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I have a 1998 Ford Ranger. My problem is jerky application of acceleration. I note slack in the cable connecting the pedal to the engine throttle. Is there any way to adjust this cable length to remove the slack.
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