Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Check Engine Light Code P0303 - Cylinder Misfire
Oct 7, 2014
I own the 2014 Santa fe turbo 2.0 litre limited which has 4000 km on it. Within 210 km the engine light came on 3 times. I took it into the shop and they ran a code of P0303 which is a misfire, they changed the coils #2 and #3 and cleared the code. The second time it showed the same code but the shop said it was in the history so that is why the same code came up again. They ran an update ECM? and all was good. Now the 3rd time they tell me no code has come up and can't do anything about the engine (they cleared it) but it was like chasing ghosts. My vehicle runs great so not sure why I am constantly having this issue.
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We got our latest Santa Fe computer email and it warned of an engine fault. The car itself was not flashing any warnings though. Took it to the dealer and they said OBD was throwing a P0303 cylinder 3 misfire code. They shifted the ignition coil, and replaced the injector and seal before resetting the code. They had the car for 3 days though. Car was not running rough or anything else you would expect from this type of issue. Still trying to figure out why we got the email with no indication of trouble from the car itself.
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Got a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4.0L in it that has a misfire on the #3 cylinder and giving check engine code: P303. Have tried new plugs, wires, distributor, switching out the coil pack with a known good, checked injectors for pulse, checked injectors, moved injectors and still the misfire remains on #3. Removed the valve covers and all appears to be well.
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I got a check engine light. I went to Auto zone to get it read & they came up with a P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire. Since I bought the vehicle a couple of months ago, I don't know when the plugs were last changed, so I decided to change them. However . . .
Is there a secret to getting the plug boots & wires out of the hole and off the plug without wrecking the wires?
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I have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0l AEG engine with 190,000 miles and check engine code P0303 for the 2nd time in 3 months. I had this same code 3 months and 3000 miles ago and found the spark plug #3 to be fouled up. All other plugs and wires seemed to be okay so I replaced plug #3 and the problem went away. I suppose after I take off the upper intake manifold I am going to find the same plug #3 to be fouled up again. The engine is a typical AEG that I have to add 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles as it has been burning the same amount of oil since I acquired the car at 135,000 miles. I have read that the wrong piston rings were installed from the factory on a large number of these engines and VW says that if less than 1 quart of oil is burned after 7500 miles it is normal. I really don't feel like spending 2 hours every 3000 miles to replace plug #3 ? It might be time to part ways with my 2nd VW. As a side note, this car has been averaging 35.5 mpg over the last 55,000 miles that includes 50% city/ 50% highway driving. I coast to red lights and don't accelerate quickly with the 5 speed manual transmission to achieve hybrid like fuel efficiency.
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe with the 3.5 with 112000 miles on it. I had the engine light come on with the code P0302 cyl #2 misfire, I got spark plugs, plug wires to do a tune up on it. I changed all of it and got it back together, started it up and it still had a miss to it. I then took the front spark plugs out and did a compression test on it. #2 was at 85, #4 was at 120, and #6 was at 160. I couldn't check the back cyls because I had already put the intake back on. I then did a wet test, and all the cyls came up to 160. So this tell me that the piston rings are bad in #2 and going bad in #4. I have kept all the oil changes up and up to this point I haven't had any trouble with it. Having this problem with there 3.5?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Prius with just under 30,000 miles. Yes, I don't drive all that much, which makes the Prius the perfect car. I get it serviced every 6 months by the dealer. So far, other than oil changes, the only actual maintenance has been tires, a 12 volt battery, and a $300 "inspection".
A few weeks ago the "Check Engine" light came on. I pulled the code P0301, which translated to "Misfire on cylinder 1". The car was running great at that time, and since clearing the code it has continued to run without the light coming on again. Given that my maintenance is more time-related than mileage-related, it's possible that the ignition system needs attention. However I'm reluctant to bring that up at my next maintenance appointment, because the guy writing up the service order will always answer "Yes" to every "Do I need ..." question.
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I bought my 2008 Prius 9-14 with 29,000 miles on it. (rebuilt title-big mistake I now know). I found out after I bought it that it had sat for 5 years before it was rebuilt) I figured it was a miracle the hybrid battery even worked.
I had no problems until 2-4-15 when check engine light was flashing and the car was shaking. The local mechanic said was the “clutch” (torque converter), took the engine and transmission out of the car to fix it ($2200). But he realized the mass air flow sensor (MAP) was not working even after he put a new one in so had me take the car to the Toyota dealer. The dealer found a cut in the engine harness and advised me to replace the harness which he said would cost $2800. The local mechanic saw the cut via my cell phone photo and offered to fix it for free which he did.
The next day check engine light comes on after driven 25 miles with code PO 301. (means misfires in cylinder one). The local mechanic switches cylinder 1 with 4, same code the next day, local mechanic switches the coils to the cylinders, still the next day the same code. He switched the fuel injectors. Same problem of cylinder 1 misfire. He cleaned the oil out of the intake manifold, did fuel injection cleaning, and cleaned gunk out of the fuel line. Car would drive good about 20 miles then same check engine light, same code, sometimes code PO300 (random multiple misfires).
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(This is a continuation of a previous thread: [URL] ..... )
I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 75,000 miles on it. Several months ago (see above link) the check engine light came on with a P0304 cylinder 4 misfire code. The only symptom appears to be a rough idle/shaking every 3rd or 4th start for the first 10-15 seconds, but runs smoothly afterwards. My mechanic replaced all my spark plugs (I had new plugs put it at 50,000 miles for the same issue) of which the one from cylinder 4 was worn down much more than the rest. The problem persisted so they replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter and switched the spark coils from cylinder 4 to a different cylinder, but the code still read cylinder 4 so it wasn't the coil. That was back in October.
I took my car back in last week for the same problem and without starting my car (because the problem is worst on the first start) they pushed my car into the bay and did a smoke test, no leaks in the fuel lines. Then they checked the cylinder and said that there was "excess" fuel in the cylinder and replaced the fuel injector. Then after ~3 days the check engine came back on with the same P0304 misfire code. Previous repairs/diagnostics rule out spark plugs, coils, fuel pressure, and injectors.
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2000 Tacoma v6 has has always ran good, but has check engine light code P300 & P306. cly 3 & cly 6 missfire, lean bank 1. Vacuum test showed no problems.
I've changed plugs & wires, switched coils around cleaned mass air flow sensor, checked timing. Ran Seafoam through intake, and gas tank. Check engine light went out for about three miles, then came back on. What else can I do to keep that blinking check engine light off?
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1997 Ford F150 - 133K Miles - 6cyl - 4.2L. This is a truck that gets less than 2K/year put on it. Has had "issues" with worn bearings and holding oil pressure for a few years now. Yesterday, the check engine light started flashing (as opposed to solidly lit) and the code came back as a cylinder #4 misfire (only the one code). The truck was clearly not firing on all cylinders and at idle, ran terribly (couldn't be driven). I just did a compression test on all the cylinders and all measured around 140-145psi except the #4 which read almost 170psi. I rechecked this a few times as well as a couple of the others and am now sure of the results. What could cause this one cylinder to have a higher compression ? Is whatever is causing this increase in the compression, also be the cause of them misfire ?? I'm stumped here and quite frankly, expected the compression on the #4 cylinder to be really low as opposed to the others.
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It keeps reading the code P0303 "cylinder 3 misfire". All coil packs, fuel injectors, spark plugs have been replaced. The exhuast smells normal. The oil is the correct color(maple syrup color, NOT milky). It's not blowing through coolant. Compression test came back normal. It's not the cat converter because the exhaust doesn't smell like rotten eggs. The car is sometimes hard to start. it hesitates/stumbles and shakes really bad. It feels like its not getting enough power.
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I have searched but with no solid answer..
What I got - 04 Camry, 231K, never had issues, do all my maintenance myself, brakes, plugs, oil etc..
#3 Cyl misfire..
Possible causes
Plugs, - Has been about 2 years since I replaced
Coil - Bought car new in 04, never replaced
Cat - never gave it a second thought
fuel injector - put techron by Chevron just about every oil change, I know I missed one here and there..
burned exhaust valve - say it aint so...
poor compression - I have to rent a tool...
defective computer - I don't think so..
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1997 Ford Ranger with 190K miles has check engine light on with P302 computer code, meaning misfire on cylinder 2. Engine runs rough at idle only once it warms up, which only takes a minute. It is usually fine while driving, but it's a lot easier to feel a misfire at lower RPMs than at higher ones. Added fuel injector cleaner to gas for a couple tanks, no change. My mechanic has checked spark plugs, fuel injector, o2 sensor, and everything is ok. Dry compression test shows good compression. He thinks it may be a valve sticking, which means a valve job: expensive. Is there anything else that can be done? Why is there no misfire when it is first started?
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So I have a 2004 Jetta gli 1.8turbo and my CEL came on last night from normal driving, after it came on it still drives the same. I had it scanned for codes and got the p0303 cylinder #3 misfire. wondering what could be the solution for this? I dont think its the coil pack because I had them changed at the dealer from the recall about 2 months ago (anyway to check?) Also I have 97,000 miles on my car and my last oil change I used 0w-40 oil. I know this is probably not the best oil to use at this mileage but I had an extra 5 quarts of them laying around so I decided to use it.
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1997 chevy k1500 ... I have a misfire on cylinder 3 that i cannot figure out the cause. The idle is rough, backing out after starting is very rough, it seems to pick up at higher rpms but once the truck upshifrts to the next gear it shakes like a leaf in fall. within the past year the engine was rebuilt all new seals a new fuel pump, new injectors, new everything practically. so far i have done the following:
compression test results:125-130psi
fuel pressure test results: 50psi once primed, 50psi with engine running, no immediate pressure loss after engine is shut off
new spark plug wires
new spark plugs
replaced all four o2 sensors
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So my 2001 5.3L truck has 206,648 miles on it. Over the years, it's been serviced every 5K with the only big repair being head gaskets which were done about a year ago.
Two weeks ago, I hit the gas to merge into traffic and the SES light started flashing and I could tell there was a miss. I got off the gas and a few moments later, the light went out and the miss was gone. I pulled the code and it was P0303 so I change the plugs, wires, and the coil pack for Cyl 3 fuel filter and ran a double dose of Sea Foam through the gas tank.
Bad news is I still have the problem. The truck drives fine; in fact, I pulled my bass boat 75 mile round trip yesterday. Everything is OK till you hit the gas hard to merge or to go up a big hill or pass someone. When you hit the gas hard, SES starts flashing and there is a miss. I also noticed the valves ping loudly when the SES is flashing. The only code it's giving me is P0303.
Could this be a bad injector not delivering enough fuel at higher RPM/under load? I was going to swap injectors and see if the miss moves. Any tips on popping those injectors out?
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01 Taurus, 3.0 pushrod motor. Single 6 pack style coil. I replaced worn plugs 2 months ago for misfire. Car seemed to run fine. Now, I have misfire again. Code is for single cyl, 0303. Would u expect plug to foul, or bad wire, or possibly bad coil? I don't know how these ford coil packs fail. Can u lose 1 or more spark outputs with them?
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I own a BMW not a VW! My 19yr old daughter purchased her first car a few months ago, an '03 Jetta 2.0L with approx. 170,xxx miles. Just after she got it we pulled a P0420 code, but it ran fine so we haven't worried too much about it. I've cleared that code and after about 2 weeks it will come back. Last week it started to have some issues with rough idle, stumbling/hesitation. I pulled the codes yesterday an in addition to the catalytic code is a cylinder #3 misfire P0303. I thinking the 2 codes are not related. I'm assuming the typical things to look for on the misfire are coil, wire, plug? Looks like the coil on this engine is a combined unit so no switching coil packs to see if the miss follows a bad coil pack.
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2009 corolla 1.8l 155,000 miles. Replaced iridium spark plugs at 100,000
I got a CEL few weeks ago, P0301 Toyota - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Car has been running bad for about 2 weeks now, excise noise on the highway, especially up hills.
Yesterday, I took a look, replaced the spark plug in cylinder 1, same results. Checked the coils using one of those flashing tools, all 4 flashed quickly, with no breaks in flashing. put it all back together, cleared the code, went home.
Took it out for a drive today, and it started running way worse. Checked the CEL, and now I have both P0301 and P0303 Misfire on cylinder 1 and 3. Barely made it home, ran VERY VERY bad.
Got home, and made a video of it. It just kept dying. Check it out here. [URL] .....
Also, when it does run, it almost sounds like I can hear excess air, its hard to hear in video, but doesn't sound right. Maybe air leak? How do I check?
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2003 hyundai accentra and I have trouble code P0303 misfire detected cylinder 3 the car would run rough and hesitate at idle and run rough in drive and reverse I checked the plug gap on number 3 cylinder and it was excessive so I regapped it and put back and the car run good for about a day and now the engine light is back and is running rough and hesitating.
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