I have 4200K on my SF Sport Limited. Car was ultra quiet when running, perfect. Got my oil changed at the dealer yesterday, and now it idles rougher, and pretty much drive like i am in ECO mode. Turbo doesn't sound as smooth. This sucks. Looked at the receipt from the dealer and it says he used Castrol 5w20 oil. My manual and the oil cap say 5w30.
View 134 RepliesThe lights on the bottom of the side mirrors looks crappy, every light on the car seems to be LED or high quality looking....then you have those cheap looking lights come on when you approach the car.
I was going to just order LED replacements, but I was thinking of replacing with the lights that project Lexus on the ground. On search it kept bringing up the projection lights for the light on the bottom of the door, not in the mirror.
The last 3 times I have tried to fill up, I have had about 1/3 of a tank. Tthe pump runs for ~15 -20 litres and then shuts off. I cannot fill any further. I have 9/16ths in the tank now, 360km to empty. I will phone the dealer tomorrow. 42000km now.
View 29 RepliesSo I switched out my bulbs to standard LEDs. I was changing the back map lights when they all turned off.. I thought the timer just ran out but now they won't turn back on..
The rear light in the truck, map lights in the front and the side map lights.. Did I short something? I don't see how as to I wasn't holding anything metal in my hands.. I did have an issue trying to get off the back map lights (i gave up), but not my lights won't turn on....
My 99 Lumina's battery would drain after 36-48 of just sitting (12-24 before replacing the battery.) I had tried somethings did research and had no luck. In January this year I got an oil change at a jiffy lube type place. They removed something by the spark-plug wires right at the bottom edge of the windshield. When I tried to start it the car engine it jerked, shook, and didn't start. They did something in that same spot then it started right up.To my surprise the battery didn't drain any more!! Then 2 weeks later it started running rough when I slowed down, started to die, was very hard to start, then ran very rough, next I had to step on the gas and ride the brake for 4 blocks then it died in my driveway. That all happened over 15 miles wile in traffic. I tried to start it many times with no luck. The battery was fine after 4+ months of sitting.
View 3 RepliesAnother thread on here about Time for Batteries got me to thinking about mine and whether I should change them based upon time.
They have been in the truck 4 years and 6 months or so. I was reading some older threads recommending changing around the 3 year mark to prevent damage to the FICM.
I don't drive the truck everyday and sometimes it sits for 3 weeks or so. I noticed 2 days ago when I took it to work, I got one of the slowest cranks I've ever gotten. But after it's started and the glow plugs turn off, I get ~ 14.1 - 13.4 or so volts.
FICM voltage never drops below 47 and usually runs between 47.5 and 48.5 volts.
I'm not sure what size alternator is on there. Plus it's a single. I also have the upgraded cables that Mr. Jack recommended for extra battery life. I guess it's time for batteries though?
Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 mountaineer that the blower motor runs on full blast no matter what. The switch bars go up and down but blower motor does not change speeds. also upon opening the hood I found 2 large mouse nests ,1 on passenger side fender and 1 center of engine towards the back. Are these related or could it be a switch issue. How to remove switch and test it.
View 11 RepliesJust like the title says, getting crappy mileage. all my driving is city driving and on weekends i go on the highway for about 3 miles to get to work, i4 2013 camry getting 19.8 mpg, does that sound right for just city driving? Car has 6643 miles on it bought it in May 27th.
View 14 RepliesI think I need my exhaust flex pipe replaced. My car sounds so old and crappy when accelerating. Is there anyway I can cut this out and replace it myself without welding? If I do need to take it somewhere can someone recommend a good replacement part? Here is a pic of it....
flex pipe camry 5.2.2015
I have a VERY intermittent problem with my 2013 Avalon. For the last two years in the months of Jan.- Mar. Sometimes (perhaps twice a season in Winter) When I leave the car sit for over 1 evening in a heated garage without driving it, the battery goes dead. I can charge the battery for an hour then get the car started, take it to the dealer and they can find nothing wrong. Even replaced the battery last year which solved it until the winter months set in 9 months later and now it's doing the same thing again.
I think that some accessory or something may be sticking on like the seat heaters or headlights, on those rare evenings when I don't think to check on it after I shut it off. Whatever it is, it's drawing a lot of current to deplete a new battery in 24-48 hours.
All the sudden AC will stop blowing cold and engine temp will start rising but radiator doesn't seem to heat up. Will correct itself after about 10 minutes. 3.3L 130,000 miles
View 9 RepliesOften, when starting it will run rough and throw different misfire codes. Most of the time it smooths out in short order (a minute or less). When it doesn't smooth out quickly, it smooths out when I clear the code. Also, rarely it will start very hard. I have to wimd out the starter pretty good to get it to start. All that I have done is cleaned the MAF sensor.
View 3 RepliesI have an 02 2.4 gas SF. After a good while, the car will run rough, lose power and will not take any throttle. As if it is starving for fuel. But it will idle fine and if it does stall, will restart. On a hill, I have to drop into first and keep it at 1000 RPM (yikes!)
If I keep going with very little throttle, it may resolve itself. It is always fine after a complete cool down. I checked for vacuum in the tank by opening the filler while it was misbehaving. I have a new CPS, new coil packs, new filters. I've have enough gas fill ups to eliminate water in the gas.
It has thrown no codes. I went ahead and ordered a MAF sensor and a cam position sensor...just guessing. (it had failed emissions which I resolved by cleaning the MAF.)
I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 litre 4wd and am having a crazy problem. It has the automatic heating and air conditioning module (digital). The heater fan comes on as soon as i start the engine and runs in the 2nd highest speed. I can adjust it so it goes one speed higher but never lower than the one it comes on at and cannot shut it off. It operates the same under heat OR A/C modes. The temperatures adjust o.k. but it is always on. Where would i find the a/c control module? Could it be the transistor or resistor and where are they located?
View 2 Replies2 wks ago I was running down I95 at about 95-100 mph (basically floored) in a rush to get somewhere on time. Since then my truck has been running for crap. It threw the p0171 code when I checked it. When driving under normal conditions it pings a lot and my mpg is down about 3 mpg and has this hesitation when you get on it. Even when you accelerate at a normal rate it surges a little, it pings a lot and has a loss of power, about 30-40%. It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to pull and then you will feel it starting to pull a little harder then it starts to surge/hesitate a little again.
Truck has 147k on it. I was having a similar situation until I had the plugs replaced at 125k, so I figured the plugs shouldn't be the problem. So I replaced the fuel and air filters, cleaned the maf w/maf cleaner and Throttle body w/tb cleaner and replaced the pcv with a new one from ford. Still pings bad under load and still has the hesitation/surging and crappy fuel economy. Its running smoother but no fix yet. This is crazy trying to pinpoint this issue. The detonating isnt crappy gas because I used super and it still detonates quite a bit.
Its a 06' F250 5.4 3V XLT Lariat SC FX4....
See related guides and technical advice from experts:
How to Change Air Filter and Cabin Air Filter
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
i am used to changing the oil & filter in a new car after 700 miles, the thinking was the bad sand castings and after a couple hundred miles some sand and other noogies would fall out of the engine block, heads and other parts. Then begin a 3,000-3,500 miles cycle of oil & filter changes. The dealer where I bought and will have it serviced at, a large Toyota dealership in Henderson, NV., says the oil and filter in this new Camry SE V6 gets changed every 10,000 miles. I know the tolerances are much tighter in 2013 than the 60's & 70's, and this engine uses synthetic oil but that seems a long time between oil & filter changes.
View 14 RepliesLiving an hour away from the dealership I decided to visit a local shop for an oil change. After the oil change, none of my cell phones would connect to the car. I have never had any issue with Bluetooth connectivity and find it suspect that after the oil change these issues arise. I suspect that someone was trying to reset a service indicator and did something else. How this can be fixed?
View 5 RepliesJust DIY'd the first oil change on my new 2013 Prius at 2100 miles. When I first started the engine after the oil change, it was knocking and sounded a little rough for about 5-10 seconds.
View 19 RepliesWhen should I get the first oil change in our 2013 F150 5.0? We took a 1,000 mile trip right after getting the truck. It's been two weeks and I have put around 1,600 miles on the truck.
Also, how often is everyone getting regular oil changes with the 5.0?