I just got a check engine light today too! I wasn't sure if I should start a new thread but I found this one first so I'll see if I get any responses. Anyway, the diagnostic tool showed P2118: throttle actuator control.
I'm not sure myself if I should be worried especially since my wife and little one year old will be driving the SF long distance this week.
For some reason, all of my cig lighter sockets stopped working properly. Voltage is steady at around 12.5v but amperage constantly drops to near 0. Fuse is intact of course and all other electrical components are working fine.
What can possibly be a cause of this?? and any solution?? It's been 2 days and I would like to know my options before heading to a dealership.
Back in March I started a thread regarding my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 which would not start after a spark plug change.
After a ton of research, & a smoke test on the intake I came to the conclusion that there was an issue with the throttle sensor as I unknowingly opened it when I was removing the intake to get to the last bolts behind the manifold. Shortly after my post, I decided to bite the bullet & buy a junkyard TB out of another Santa Fe 3.5.
After installing the new TB, the car now starts but runs extremely rich. I am now getting the code p2135 for Electronic Throttle Control System Malfunction.
Luckily up until this point I haven't needed the Santa Fe as it is mainly a winter vehicle. However, winter is quickly approaching & I would like to have her running before the snow starts to fly.
Where is the Throttle Actuator Control Module Processor on a 2008 5.4L? Is it built into the throttle body, or integrated into the PCM?
View 4 RepliesMy wife's 07 Santa Fe goes into limp mode while she's on the freeway. Had it towed to a mechanic. They report codes were: 0101, 0102, 1295, 2105, 2106, 2173. They said the sensors in the gas pedal were sending bad signal to throttle which burned out the actuator. So they wanted to replace throttle body and gas pedal sensors. They wanted $895.
Didn't seem right, so towed it to dealer. They said the first mechs were just guessing. Only the throttle body needs replacing. They wanted $960 total.
I bought a used throttle body off another 07 SF with similar vin number to avoid needing the ecm to be reprogrammed. Cost $225.
Couldn't find procedure for replacement in my pdf shop manual. Seems like this should be simple though. Anything special I need to know? Am I on the right track?
I have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
View 6 RepliesAny explantion for how a "bad" starter motor can crank the engine, but use too many amps in the selenoid circuit?
I had this problem when I installed a rebuilt starter motor in an early 1990's Toyota Corolla recently. It was one of those offshore rebuild starter motors. When I installed it, and turned the key to start, nothing. ARRG .. I have to take it back, and it takes me about 2 hours to install it, and another 1 hour to remove it! It's not like changing a lightbulb!
Anyway, first off, before removing it, I checked the voltage (that comes in the smaller cable from the ignition switch,not the one in the thick cable direct from the battery) right at the starter selenoid, and it was only 8.6 volts. At first I thought it was a weak battery, but the battery voltage was 11.8 volts under the same load at the battery. And the voltage at the ignition switch was 11.6 volts. It was loosing 3 volts in the wiring path from the ignition switch to the starter motor! Then I noticed the wiring harness was getting warm that held that wire. Oh Oh.
For the life of me I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Unwilling to throw in the towel and remove the unit, I decided to completely bypass the ignition switch and the entire wiring harness, so I wired it up with my own switch I bough at Radio Shack and my own 16 AWG (the wire in the harness is 18 AWG) wires clipped direct from the battery to the starter selenoid. This is all from the front of the car. I just wanted to see if I could get it to turn and crank the engine. It worked, it cranked ok and everything, but the second time I tested it with this experimental configuration, it melted my 10 Amp Radio Shack switch! The switch was supposed to be able to handle 10 amps! Remember, this is the selenoid circuit, not the main power circuit from the battery.
So I then DID throw in the towel, and took it out, took the starter motor back to the auto parts place. ( I had a little dust-up with the parts place manager; he at first refused to refund my money. He wanted me to take another rebuilt one, but I'd lost trust in their rebuilt units and I just wanted my $$ back. We compromised on a voucher for future purchases.) Anyway, the parts place tested the problem starter motor I had returned to them, and they said it tested "bad". So the one they sold me was indeed no good. (Why they didn't test it before they sold it to me is another question.)
But here's the mystery: If the rebuilt starter motor tested "bad", and it indeed was "bad", how could it have cranked the engine with the experimental heavy guage wiring ? Any explantion for how a "bad" starter motor can crank the engine, but use way too many amps in the selenoid circuit?
The engine starts, the throttle actuates, the dash lights and dome light work, the radio even works, but the fan does not, and neither does the air conditioner.
Turning the fan knob produced almost a whispering whining sound which soon stopped, and the AC compressor refuses to engage when the button is pressed.
One code popped up- P2118. I have read in other parts of the forum that this indicates a throttle actuator control motor current failure, but as I said, the throttle actuates, and the accelerator pedal works as intended. I reset that code, but I'm halfway dreading its return.
When I first got this car about 2 months ago, my current speed would be displayed in the MFD when the cruise control was set to on (not activated and in use). For some reason now that no longer happens and it just shows dashes. The only time the speed is displayed now is when I am actually using the cruise control. Is there a way to get that thing back to showing my present speed like it did before?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 GTI GLX VR6 and when I start it in the morning (ie cold) after the initial "choke" and the revs drop it becomes erratic. Sometimes it will stall out. If I restart the car it will throw a check engine light and go into limp mode. If I let the car warm up it runs fine. If the car has been driven and is relatively warm it runs fine. Initially there were several codes but after replacing the MAF and the fuel pump relay the only remaining code is P1545.
My mechanic seems to think it may be the coolant temperature sensor. The code seems to indicate the problem is the throttle. "Throttle position control malfunction". Not sure why warming it up makes a difference (unless of course it is the temp sensor). When I replaced the MAF sensor I did clean the throttle body. I was very careful in doing so. Problem existed prior to my cleaning it as well. After changing the fuel pump relay things were better for a few days but then the problem returned.
I have an 04 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 AWD with climate control. All other trucks this year I've only seen with manual HVAC controls. My blower motor is constantly running anytime the key is turned on. It feels like it is blowing 3/4 strong all the time and I can turn it up, what feels like one setting higher. Even if the climate control is turned off it keeps blowing. I can control the temp and AC and defroster, I just cannot control the actual airflow pressure from the vents. On an older car this seems like a resistor issue. Is this a common issue? If so, what can I do to try to rectify this?
View 4 RepliesGetting code P2125. Read on here to get some electric contact cleaner and see if that works by cleaning the connections.
If I do end up changing out the Throttle Position Sensor, what voltage value do I look for when installing the new one ?
My 98 1.8t Passat is throwing a P1565 Idle Speed Control Throttle Position Lower Limit Not Obtained. I have cleaned the throttle body with no improvement and cleared the code many times with no luck. The car only has 114k on it car runs fine although some times will give me problems starting it ill have to sit and crank it for 40 seconds or more and also will idle on rear occasions 1300 vut normally between 850 and 900.
View 1 RepliesMy check engine light came on the other day and the code stated the the "throttle position is open" so after researching and everyone telling me that i need to change the sensor. I did everything after was fine running better but today only after 3 days replacing it i get the same problems. car has no get up and go hardly can push to 20 mph and when in idle i press the break it starts to bog down and almost want to shut off! and can be really loud...
Santa fe 05' 3.5L ....
Been starting get some faults that seems unrelated other than (I think is the) harness. Intermittent low voltage to the FICM and Throttle position actuator faults (I have a 04). All voltages and battery power is solid as a rock. Watching the throttle during key on and it too will do it's self test intermittently. Looking at the cable and noticed that it seemed to be repaired with black tape in the chaffing areas. Knowing that it went threw the recall of that cable, I was under the impression that it was replaced not repaired. Anyway I would like to know how hard it is to change it and any part numbers would be useful.
View 14 RepliesI changed the actuator motor on the DS passenger door. Now the door does not open. The electronic lock moves, locks and unlocks but the door does not open from inside or outside.
After a few tries the lock tab chatters but the door still does not open. What could be wrong? As far as i know i put it back together, like i took it out.
How to take the panel off from inside then i can atleast get to the two wires that go to the lock and see if i can open the door to take the actuator out once again.
Is it possible to change the Climate control system to show in Degrees Celsius instead of Fahrenheit? It displays the temperature inside the vehicle on the lower dash display under the radio. I read all through the manual as well as mashed every key on the dashboard but no luck...
View 5 RepliesI am usually on 6.0 site and don't know much about a 5.4 gasser, hope to get some tech info. My buddy was driving to my house yesterday and his 06 F-150 with a 5.4 liter just shut off while driving. He got it restarted on first try, all engine vitals normal. I sent him to Advance Auto Parts and they pulled codes; P-2112 and P-2104 and throttle actuator stuck closed. Engine is running fine and he has driven it about 100 miles since yesterday with no problems. 06 F-150 5.4 liter 58,000 miles.
View 3 RepliesMy left rear door actuator motor has stopped working and I have read about the repair of just the electric motor, BUT has anyone found the replacement of the little electric motor, Lexus wants a fortune because they want to sell you everything, cables, latches, it all comes in one bundle for 250 or so--Jeez. So hoping someone has the part number or place that we can get these little motors and just replace that!
View 3 RepliesJust picked up a high mile f-150 (146,000) 4x4 light not coming on. Jumpered out the vacuum solenoid first, nothing. Then found out I could try to tap on the actuator motor at transfer case. it worked,. Just wondering if i keep exercising the actuator motor, if it will continue to work, sounds like the previous owner did not put it in 4x4 for a long time. Also, if needed, where is a good place to purchase the replacement actuator motor? If this truck has heated seats ( it is a lariat), where is it controlled from? .... Seems to ride a little rougher than I expected. New tires, but it seems a little harsh. I have an f-350 as well. It seems to ride just about as good.
View 3 RepliesGot our 2014 back in March and it still hangs in fourth gear after downshifting with the cruise on. Downshifting from 6th to 5th for small hills is fine but on steeper hills when it drops to 4th and hangs in there uncomfortably long.
What I've been doing is switching over to manual and bumping it up to 5th and then 6th. When I don't, it will hang in 4th and rev high and then eventually shift into 5th and 6th one right after the other long after the road has leveled out..