Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: A/C Seems To Temporarily Shut Off When Accelerating
Jul 25, 2016
I noticed from time to time when i accelerate ventilation fans tend to drop speed. Not sure if the a/c shuts off for a brief moment as you can feel warmer air exit the vents. Nothing of concern to me as the a/c works fine, just wondering if it does this for a reason. Knowing the ac is a huge power consumption to the vehicle, I am wondering if it does this for the engine to put more power where needed.
On another note. I did a test on the HWY this past Saturday omw to a wedding coverage. 2hr drive there i used the a/c with seat vents on and got about 22/23mpg. On the way back i did the opposite and got 29.2mph, not too shabby... 2016 - 2.0T .....
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I went to fill up my Santa Fe's tank for the first time and was only able to get about 9 gallons in. The pump shut off when the car only had about 2/3 of the tank full. I let it be, but I really don't want to be dealing with this every week. Have issues put gas in? Any tricks/tips? I do live in California which requires a lot of equipment on the pumps to prevent gas fumes from escaping. I'm not sure if that's contributing to the premature shut-off.
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2010 Santa Fe 3.5 AWD
Is there a way to temporarily disable the AWD, if one were to want it to stay in 2wd mode? Without looking much further into it, my first guess was looking at one of the fuses, but didn't really find one that would stop the AWD from engaging.
And if there is a method, would it be just as simple and turning it back on, or would there be potential to screw things up and have to go back to the dealer to get it fixed again.
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How do you stop the seat from going all the way back on its own when you turn the engine off?
We have two kids in car seats in the back and it gives them no room to get out.
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Suddenly, I cant open the rear hatch on my Santa Fe Highlander. It seems to be electrical actuated. Anyway it is stuck shut. Key fob, nothing seems to allow it to open.
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A week ago, my wife and I were driving on the highway when suddenly our 2014 Santa Fe decided to shut off at 65 mph. When I say shut off, I mean EVERY SINGLE THING IN THE CAR DIED. All of the interior lights off, headlights off, instrument cluster, EVERYTHING. Being cool, calm, and collected, I immediately shifted into neutral, cranked, and all was back to normal. Not in the 2 years that we have owned this car has that EVER happened! I chalked it up to an inexplicable electrical anomaly.
Tonight, again, the same thing happened under different circumstances. This time, I was following her. She came to a stop at a red light, then once she lifted her foot off the brake, everything shut off. I instructed her to immediately put the car in neutral and try starting it. Like last time, it turned right back on. Apparently, there seemed to be an issue with the previous generation with the 2.4 motors.
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Having problems with center console not shutting properly? A few days ago out of the blue it would not shut, almost as though something was blocking it. If I push really hard it clicks shut but when I go to open it again it takes a lot of unusual force to open.
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I have a 2013 Santa Fe Limited AWD that has a problem that is killing me. When in any forward gear something that is rolling/spinning is making a squeaking/grinding sound but only when you give it gas. Once you let off the gas paddle it stops then starts again when I give it gas again. I took it to my local dealer and after a week of them having it they told me that its rust on the rotors.
I feel that is not the case and I don't want to spend the money to turn or replace the rotors to find its not the problem. It has 48k miles and when they tried to tell and show me what it was i saw the pads and rotors and they looked good (other then normal rust on the edge of the rotor) so I know its not in need of a brake job.
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My 2003 Hyundai sante fe would not shut off. I had to disconnect the battery in order to kill the engine. The one thing I did notice was the ignition assembly didn't seem to have anymore kickback to it when engaging the starter. It just turns freely. weird, I hooked the battery back up and noticed that all my dashboard lights came back on with the key in my hand. I new something in the switch must be broken. I ordered both a new key and tumbler and also the ignition starter switch. When going to install it I notice that the cam looking part is the culprit.
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I just ran into this the other morning, I needed to get gas and my whole car was frozen over. No snow, just a thin layer frost.. But enough to freeze the lock on the gas door.
I was not able to get it open at all.. I hit lock/unlock about 25 times and nothing.. I gave up and took the wifes car.. By the time I got home all was thawed out and the gas door was working just fine..
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Golf R make a terrible squeaking noise when it is shut off? I've had it to the dealer several times and they haven't been able to figure it out... The noise is worse with cold weather. Can I relay to the dealer...
YouTube link : [URL] .....
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About 20000 miles on it, had dealer service a couple weeks ago. Going to a friends this evening. Stopped at an intersection when accelerating again, there was a shudder for a second, different than the normal motor start up. Then I noticed the CEL light and the Hybrid system light were on. No place to pull off the road so continued on about 1/2 mile to the friends condo and pulling in the parking lot it seemed like the engine was in safe mode, reduced power, so parked it there and got a ride home.
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Have a used 2003 Santa Fe /w 2.4 . 150.000 miles .
It shuts down at any speed . seems to cut out mostly when cornering and applying the brakes. Check engine lite stays on . code p401 cnf
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I have a Santa Fe 2001, 2.0 Crdi.
My low beam have shut down. I have checked the fuse for right and left, and as I can see, it's the same fuse as for the high beam ...
Is there any known problems regarding this faults ? Of course, the bulbs are ok ...
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I have a 2013 Golf R Apr stage 2+ with about 74k on the odo. I have been stage 2 for about 5k and was stage 1 for about 20k before going stage 2. Changed my plugs and coils at stage 2 as well. So was driving on the highway at about 60 just cruising when all of a sudden there was a minor hiccup in the car and then pushed the gas pedal and nothing, RPMs started falling and then car shut off, put the clutch in and coasted to the side of the road. Tried to restart and it would not.
I have power and car tries to start but won't catch and turn over. Towed it back to a buddies shop and let it sit overnight, still won't start. started poking around. Checked Hpfp and everything seems fine, cam follower and cam are good. Noticed that when I open my drivers door now I don't hear the other fuel pump prime like it usually does and after putting hpfp back on and opening drivers door a couple times we checked the Schrader valve on the hpfp and no fuel came out like it usually would. Have it narrowed down to most likely culprits; Faulty in tank fuel pump, faulty fuel pump control module, faulty fuel pump relay.
Btw just thought of this, no check engine light ever came on, also don't have a way to pull codes.
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I have a 2016 Elantra GT with less than 1000 miles on it and I just started coming across an issue yesterday. I have had my ABS and trac light kick off on me and stay lit until I shut the car down, then it will start back up with no issue. I don't have a compatible scanner to pull the codes so I am not sure what in the system is kicking the light.
Its random when happening and I double checked that my wiring was all hooked up properly from the factory on all items included in the circuit. I also checked the wheel bearings just to rule out possibly having a bad one which I would find hard to believe with under 1000 miles on it even if faulty.
Are there any common issues with the ABS, traction, or stability control systems on these cars that people have come across? Obviously I'm under warranty so I'm not worried about getting it fixed.
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Recently had battery changed and now when I go to turn on my air and push climate it says access to air conditioning temporarily not possible.
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I'm looking to temporarily fit some non-vw fog lights to my car for an upcoming holiday road trip. I've already got some 2000 lumen led light modules that are typically mounted on my offroad adventure bike, and I want to temporarily install them onto my VW. I'm trying to find a good place to put them, but there's no easily accessible metal on the front of the car that I can find. I was toying with the idea of fabricating a license plate surround of plate aluminum and mounting the lights to that. Thoughts? I'll be using a relay with a trigger wire to the high beams. We're going to be doing a long night time trip in some very secluded snowy back roads, and the extra light will be nice to have. Where else to mount them? I'm disinterested in the OEM fogs for my own reasons, so I'm not really looking for that manner of commentary. I'd like to be able to drill in somewhere to get a good solid mounting.
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2011 Santa Fe with a problem with the fan. Believe it's the radiator fan. First time it happened, wife shut off car and fan was still on. Started it back up and shut it off a couple of times and it stayed off. That was over a year ago. Then today, same thing except she didn't notice it until she came back out to car and the battery was totally dead. Got a boost and as soon as they hooked up the leads from good battery the fan was on. I saw someone in a thread about a 2006 Sonata (?) doing this kind of thing.
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Recently with sunny days, 25-30 degrees celsius, my late 06' CRDI Santa Fe starts to shut off while in the traffic jam. After engine restart car runs fine while idling but after i put in Drive (its a 5 speed AT) it shuts off again. After 2-3 restarts i may able to pull my car aside the road and let it cool. One other thing i have noticed is the temperature gauge. The needle is sitting slightly under middle mark and my torque app shows 114-115 degrees celsius ? It is pretty high dont you think ? Sometimes its over the middle bar and then my OBD torque app shows 120 degrees. I would exclude Crankshaft position sensor, because car restarts just fine, if it was CPS then it should not start for a while?
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My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
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