Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: A/C Blower Quit Working Randomly - Water Leakage
Aug 19, 2013
On my first trip with the new Santa Fe. After 400 miles today, while just 50 miles from Vegas, the A/C blower quit working. It sounded like it was blowing as normal but almost no air was coming from the vents. Being just 50 miles out I pushed on.
After arriving home (only 98 today luckily) I turned off the car and unloaded. After about 20 minutes, I started the car and the A/C and blower seemed fine. I looked at the ground and about a pint of water (at least it looked and felt like water I did not taste it) seemed to leak after I started it from the center of the car about even with the front door. What happened? Any cause for alarm?
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This morning I went to put some stuff in my hatch to go to a job and looked at the paper towel role I keep wedged in the small little cubby in the front corner and lifted it up and it was SOAKING wet! I literally could squeeze the paper towel and water would come out of it (like you submerged a paper towel in water and immediately squeezed it out). Its rained about 1.5 inches in the past few days and my car had been sitting while it was raining but had been driven between the two storms. I WILL be contacting the dealer very soon.
The funny thing is my Genesis has a recall for the water Leakage through the tail light housing.
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My a/c has not been working so we added R134a yesterday and it fixed the problem just like it did last summer. Once I was finished I left the a/c on high when I shut my car off. This morning when I left for work it was too cold so I turned it to the "off" position. On my drive I decided to turn the a/c on and make sure it was still getting cold at which point nothing happened, absolutely no air (hot or cold) was blowing out. I kept turning it on and off and at one point the a/c did start working again at which point I turned the fan speed to low. A few minutes later the blower completely quit working again. Nothing works at any speed, any position regardless of heat or a/c. Absolutely nothing is blowing out of my vents. I can hear something that sounds like opening and closing when I change the position/type of a/c/heat but the other than that the only sound is a "shhhhhhh" when I turn it to the off position. Where to start on diagnosing and fixing this issue?
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My heater/AC blower quit working. Does not work with either heat or AC. I suspect a blown fuse but cannot find one for the blower.
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I had to replace the vacuum control for the heater in the dash panel. The fan worked good on all 4 speed settings but only in the defrost position due to the damaged control valve. The control valve works all position for the heater positions now. There is power at both sides of the heater fuse under the dash but no blower function. Is there a fuseable link elsewhere in the system to check. Is the fan motor only accessible to test by accessing the heater/AC under the dash on the passenger side. 1973 Crew Cab....
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My Wife has a 1984 and I have a 1985 Toyota Pickup, 2wd, 22R engine, same dash and almost same everything. There are 4 settings on the selector switch (horizontal lever switch moving from left-to-right) for the blower fan: "Off", "Low", "Med" & "High". In both trucks, the "Low" setting for the BLOWER FANS quit working, but the other settings still work fine and amount heat-output is fine(so this is a FAN problem and not a "heating" problem).
Is the problem in the switch itself?, or in the blower fan resistor?, or in the blower fan motor? From what I've read elsewhere, it seems to be a blower fan Resister problem that is most likely. If that is the case, where exactly should I be looking for it and will I need to remove the dashboard? And what does it look like? I've seen a small black object about 1"x 1.75"x 1.75" and it has an Amperage listing on it and it's next to a Relay that seems to be related to the heater. I'm guessing that thing is not the resister if it's labeled "Amperage", I would think it should have an "Ohms" symbol or word or rating on it if it were the resistor, or is that really "it".
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99 Explorer Blower motor quit working. Disconnected and hot wired to a battery and blower motor worked. So I know it is in the switch and/or wiring. I need this truck everyday so going into the shop is out. Live in Northern Mn and the temp was -15 degrees. So as a temp fix what does everybody think of running a wire from the battery to a switch inside and then to the blower motor and then to a ground. Would have a inline fuse. If this will work what gauge wire and what amp fuse would you use. Its getting cold without heat.
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Well, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
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So yesterday I took my 2014 SE through a car wash and after a pulled out I noticed there were soap suds on the passenger floor mat. Which never happened before. Now the AC Blower fan is not working. I'm sure they are connected as the fan from What I know is located behind glove box. Would there be a fuse for that fan? Didn't locate one in the fuse box on drivers side.
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I have 2013 ford fiesta and the fan wasn't turning on!? It sounded like it wanted to and this is the first time I'm having problems with it. It was -23 out yesterday so that could b it but it's above 0 now and still not turning on?
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I have a 1997 Mazda b4000 new plugs wires head gasket an I cleaned out the radiator. My question is the truck runs good but my heat quit workin what could it be all fuse look good. Also there is water coming out of my tailpipe with white smoke. Should I be concerned.
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The water pump on my 2015 350 (6.2L) failed this morning and the dealer says it needs to be replaced. What might have caused it?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe . The AC blower fan will have some days where it just doesn't work. I have taken it to the dealer on 4 occasions without the issue being rectified. It seems that unless it isn't working on the day , they won't even look for an issue.
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Just yesterday both my power accessory outlets quit working...the one in the console and the one behind the console..2013 ES350, 21k miles...the phone charger works fine in my truck but when plugged into the Lexus, nothing...maybe a fuse? The fuse is under the hood or under the dash-board?
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i have a 2013 Ecoboost Screw. This morning, I was leaving for work about 0445, and was pulling out of my driveway, when I realized my headlights were not on. I tried rotating the switch a few times off and on, and still nothing. I pulled back in my driveway and checked all fuses for headlights, both low beams and high beams. All good. My parking lights, turn signals, and tail lights all work.
When I got home from work tonight, I tried a few more things. I pulled the lamp housing and checked for voltage directly to the bulb. I get 0.9 VDC at one pin and 0 VDC at the other two. Not nearly enough to fire up a bulb. To a known good ground.
I opened the dashboard to check the harness at the switch itself, and when I unplugged it, all lights turned on (except the headlights). Is that a failsafe in case the switch goes out while driving?
As a last ditch desperate measure, I disconnected my negative battery terminal for about 15 minutes just to see if anything changed. I don't know where else to go from here.
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I was recently on a road trip, using my cruise control extensively (like usual) when it just quit working. I tried to reset to a lower speed, but it would rev itself back up to the original speed. I turned off the cruise control, drove a mile or so and turned it back on. The cruise dash light came on, but the right control buttons no longer worked. No check engine light. It's never worked since.
My local tire shop checked codes and found the tcm not communicating with the mod (cruise module?). I'm looking to take it to the dealer, but I'd like to be better informed with what I may be dealing with before I get there.
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Blower only works on high speed. From what I have read the problem is either the switch or the motor resistor. I am leaning toward the resistor which is behind the glove box. Where can I find directions for removing the Glove box?
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe, and both power mirrors quit working at the same time. I plugged in a different switch, and still nothing. I checked the 10 amp fuse under the dash and that was good (is there a different one). The locks still work though.
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It was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
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Today, while driving on the highway, my heater just quit working. My car is equipped with the automatic climate controls and so I switched it to manual mode to see if the heat would come back. The heat does not seem to be mixing at all with the air.
One weird thing is that if I set the temperature to 90 degrees then the A/C mode will turn off and blow pure hot air. However, if I go to 89 degrees then the heat will stop and the A/C will turn on again. Turning off the A/C manually does not bring the heat back.
What could be wrong? I might just try unplugging and reconnecting the controls since I was messing with the radio a couple of days ago.
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Ok first there was the "Creaking Dash Rattle", now comes the front seat flood! It has rained for two days and water, lots of it, comes pouring out onto my mats on the passenger side when I make a hard left turn. At least 8 ounces!!! I don't have a sunroof. My carpet and mats are soaked. After I shop vacuumed the water out I took it to the dealer...just like the dash rattle he'd never heard of this problem. I told him maybe my rubber dash rattle wedge caused the problem? He said, I'd have to bring the car back and he was going to remove the shroud? (They're just dying to break into my dash). It looks like the glove compartment is taking a leak on the passenger's carpet.
Also My Bluelink can't be registered because someone before me registered it ON MY NEW CAR...and I am starting to wonder if this was a hail damaged car improperly repaired? i.e. leaks and windshield rattle. I bought it off of the showroom floor and assumed it was new but when I drove it away I saw 200 miles on the ODO. Don't say it I know I screwed up.
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