Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: 2014 Turns Over But Won't Start After Engine Swap
Sep 19, 2016
We just swapped engines on a 2014 Santa Fe Sport but it won't start now. Old engine had 70k miles, new one has 25 k miles. Wondering if the swap could have tripped a fuel shutoff switch or something simple. Its not throwing any codes, but I think it has to run first before it would give a reading. Turns over but wont start. Previous engine ran but had internal lower engine problems and metal in the oil. There is plenty of spark but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel. We hear the fuel pump prime so we know that works.
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I have a 2013 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.0. It has 53k miles on it and I purchased it new. A few days ago I tried staring my truck, and on the 5th attempt it finally started. Well I went and replaced the battery because it tested weak. It happened again this morning and it didn't start. I had to have it towed to a mechanic. It turns over strong so I'm thinking it may be a fuel problem. It's not a security issue regarding the smart key. I tried my wife's key and still It didn't start.
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Like the title says, the engine turns over but it doesn't start. Sequence is something like this:
Turn key to on.
Wait until all the lights and gongs have stopped.
Turn to start for 3 to 4 seconds.
No start.
Turn everything off and repeat 1 to 3 times.
It starts.
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I have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
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I had my dealership install a car starter when I purchased my 2014 Santa Fe a year and a half ago. I noticed that this blue flashing light constantly flashes up by the rearview mirror. It looks like an anti theft device which it isn't' and really bothers me especially at night because it lights up the whole dash. How to disable this and still keep the remote functional?
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I have a problem with my F250. The engine is turning, rail pressure 400kpa, but it does not jump at. Injectors are tested at bosch. High and Low Fuel Pressure Pump are new.Sensors and pressure regulator also. Compression is also ok on all cylinders.
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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I've looked through all the settings on both the phone and the car and can't seem to find anything. My phone is connected to the Bluetooth system and I am able to use it fine. Only issue I have is that when I get in the car my phone automatically turns to vibrate mode if I get a call or text even though I have it set to "Loud". This is fine for a call because the radio will stop and the ringing notification turns on but not fine for when I am receiving a text. I do not hear the vibration and no sound comes from the car to notify me on an incoming text. Can this be changed to have the phone make normal notification noises even though I am in the car?
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on my '13 STX, when you press the "unlock" button on the remote, the running lights come on and stay on for a while. It does this when I open the door as well. Is there a way to disable this? I really have no need for this feature and it will burn the bulbs out sooner.
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2013 SF Limited AWD = long base, 41K miles
Slow speed sharp turns left and right taking off from a stop I hear a thumping/light popping in the driveline. Seems like it could be a differential issue?
I also hear an unusual noise while accelerating in a straight line.....under throttle from a stop, it sounds like a rapid chirp on and off, every other second. Almost like a valve tick. The noise is heard under acceleration in gear, not when cruising at light throttle. I put the transmission in neutral while rolling, revved up the engine and the noise is not heard. Only happens when in gear and accelerating.
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I own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
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We just did an engine and trans axle swap in my daughter's 92 Celica St with a 90 Celica ST, both engines are 4Axx. When we swapped the engine we reinstalled the 92 intake manifold, fuel rails, injectors, sensors and the thermostat housing with sensors. We installed a new timing belt, and new 'O' rings and grommets on the injectors. When we went to start the car it would not start. How do I eliminate air in the EFI system and rule that out as the cause of the engine not starting?
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We put in a used engine (2003 Accord 3.0L V6) from a Junkyard over the weekend, and now it won't start. It'll turn over and fire on a couple cylinders, but not enough to start. Doesn't seem to matter if spray a little starting fluid in the Throttle body while trying to start it. It sounds normal while turning over, put in a new timing belt while it was out, and turned it over by hand 6 times to verify correct install before reassembling.
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No symptoms, or noises. Suddenly my '14 SFS 2.0T AWD stopped producing AC and heat. The fan works, though.
I'm suspecting a fuse has blown.
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We have a 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 3V. Starts fine for several days then all of the sudden it won't crank. It turns over normally but will not start. Then after 10 - 15 minutes of trying it starts. Does fine for a day or two then it happens again. It is not throwing any codes. We have replaced the spark plugs, crank shaft sensor, and checked all the fuses.
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For about the past month, the AC in my 2014 SFS (33k miles) has been working poorly. It works okay about half of the time, but the rest of the time it's not blowing cold air. When this happens, I have to start hitting various buttons (turning AC on and off, turning inside air on and off, raising and lowering the temp), and it sometimes comes back on. Turning the car off and on also sometimes fixes it.
This has been in low 90s temps, but AC performance shouldn't be inconsistent like this. I have an appointment for next Monday at the dealer to get it checked out.
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A week ago, my wife and I were driving on the highway when suddenly our 2014 Santa Fe decided to shut off at 65 mph. When I say shut off, I mean EVERY SINGLE THING IN THE CAR DIED. All of the interior lights off, headlights off, instrument cluster, EVERYTHING. Being cool, calm, and collected, I immediately shifted into neutral, cranked, and all was back to normal. Not in the 2 years that we have owned this car has that EVER happened! I chalked it up to an inexplicable electrical anomaly.
Tonight, again, the same thing happened under different circumstances. This time, I was following her. She came to a stop at a red light, then once she lifted her foot off the brake, everything shut off. I instructed her to immediately put the car in neutral and try starting it. Like last time, it turned right back on. Apparently, there seemed to be an issue with the previous generation with the 2.4 motors.
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I have a 2014 Santa Fe and after about 2 hours on the highway the A/C freezes up and won't blow air through the vents. If I shut off the A/C and run just fresh air in about 10 minutes the volume returns, and I can once again turn on the A/C for another 2+ hours. I run the A/C on fresh air not recirculate.
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2014 SFS 2.0T with only 8,000 kilometers...
I went out into the garage last night and noticed the Santa Fe brake lights were on. No other lights, just the right, left, and the upper brake lights. I tapped the brake pedal several times, I started the car and put it through a couple gear changes, turned the other lights on and off, but the brake lights remained on.
The brake lights would get a little brighter when the pedal was pushed. The brake lights would also flicker once in awhile. I'm thinking a short somewhere so I have disconnected the battery until I can call the dealer tomorrow.
The only thing I have added to this car is a Curt Hitch and wire plug (plug and play, no splicing). This was more than 6 months ago and there has been no problems.
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My Dad's 2011 Raptor has been having starting issues for about a month now. He turns the key, it turns over, but doesn't actually start; the same thing happens if he tries to start using remote start. It will start once in awhile on a 2nd or 3rd try, after throwing the shifter back and forth from Drive through Reverse several times and trying again, but not most of the time.
It doesn't happen all the time, but every once in awhile, and always at random times.
The first time was accelerating at an intersection a month ago. A second or so after hitting the gas, the engine died in the middle of the intersection. He took the key out, threw the shifter back and forth, tried again, and it started right up without issues.
Later that night, he tried starting it after sitting for over an hour (and had started it several times before without problems), and it failed to start, even after 7 or 8 tries. He had it towed to the dealer the next morning. He even tried starting it that morning in the dealer parking lot, without success. Several technicians apparently started it several times later that day without any issues! They didn't fix or replace anything, because they didn't find any problems. When he got it back, it worked perfectly.
A couple weeks later, it had the same problem at the gas station, after getting a full tank. My Mom told him that her truck (a nearly identical '11 Raptor) had the exact same issues several times in the past, and her trick was to let all the lights in the truck turn off, then try starting. He did that, and it worked!
Tonight, the same issue emerged. He did everything that had 'worked' in the past, and it still failed to start after about 10 tries. It's headed to the dealer on Monday, but what it might be?!? I also want to add that when it starts, it starts flawlessly, without hesitation; as if there wasn't a problem.
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Wife said her trim on the driver's seat broke on her 2014 SFS. I can see some plastic part between the hinges is hanging. Got it together this far.
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