Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: 2014 - Lost Power Upon Coming To A Stop
Jan 3, 2016
We have a 14' Santa Fe 2.0 Turbo that has lost power several times upon coming to a stop. The vehicle will lose the "D" in the gear selector window in the cluster, a yellow triangle light will come on, and we lose all gear selector lights on the shifter in the center console. The vehicle will stop fine but upon throttle, power is extremely sluggish and then braking is limited as well. The car will limp in this mode until we stop the vehicle and reset with an ignition cycle. We might go a month in between occurrence. Looking for similar incidents and fixes if any. Vehicle off to dealer this week. Hopefully it has a hard code stored.
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One of my proximity keys is lost inside the vehicle (2013 Santa Fe Limited).
I need to remove the lost key from the car's programming. The dealer mechanic said it is not possible to remove the programming of a key still inside the car. I am not a vehicle mechanic but I am in IT and know a little about RF technology. I know this is possible and I called a couple of locksmith's and was told that it is definitely possible and easy. However they want to charge me over $500 to de-program the lost key.. They are taking advantage of my situation and the dealer has no clue.
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Just got a 2013 IS-F. Loving this car, but discovered an annoying issue. Grinding noise coming from front brakes when slowly coming to a stop below 5 mph. Is this normal?
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I've been driving manual for like 20+ years and the SFS is my first automatic. If the 2.0T would have been available in the trim I wanted I would have take the manual.
Anyways ; since I like to come to a nice smooth stop I switch to neutral gear (N) from drive (D) like 10-20 meters before a traffic light. When driving in the city I do that like 1 time per minute at least.
1. is this bad for the transmission ?
2. is keeping the transmission in D while stopping causing more wear on the transmission (since the car wants to go forward but the breaks won't let that happen) ?
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I bought a great 76' SuperCab with a 390 4 barrel Wednesday (the 30th) and while driving around the neighborhood this evening the truck just lost all power and came to a stop. No lights, no engine, nothing and I cruised to an easy stop (fortunately at the end of my own block). I thought I smelled a bit of electrical burn for a moment after I came to a stop but could not track it down before the smell disappeared.
Some early symptoms - on drive home from purchase, the turn signal light function was in and out. The starter was also turning slowly and sounded tired/weak. The ignition switch was a bit loose and previous owner said you had to make sure the key was not all the way to the right or accessories would not work.
Some early checks/fixes- replaced battery and battery cables and checked grounds. Starter began turning stronger and turn signal lights were back. Thought I had it going well.
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I was headed down the highway in my 2007 Santa Fe last night. All of the sudden, I lost engine power. I pushed the gas peddle and nothing. We coasted down to a stop on the side of the road. I attempted to restart, all it did was turn over. I noticed the OIL light was on, so I got out and double checked my oil level. Right up to the full mark. Probably about a year ago, I had a check - engine light. I have a code that indicates that my gas level sender has failed, so my gas gauge does not work. I am sure you are saying.....he just ran out of gas. Well, not the case. I filled up the day before, and figured I had another 100 miles left on this tank.
Over 171000 miles on it and I have no intention of giving it up soon.
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Driving along, suddenly lost gears, engine revved a slight bit then lost power and stalled, the engine turns over but will not start but when it turns its in a lower key sound, the timing belt is in place but has recently been changed, would you think it has slipped? Seems a total lack of combustion in the top of the engine, would a slipped timing belt cause this?
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Bought the ISF about 6 months ago. I knew the previous owner who didn't abuse it. Was driving in 95 degree weather. All of the sudden it seems like the car lost half of its power. It still goes but doesn't pull like it use to. I checked for engine codes (none). Disconnected the battery for 5 minutes (no change) It seems like the throttle doesn't open into the secondary switch on the floor. Its just an even gradual response versus the kick once you get on it.
Also its a 2008 model
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2014 Subaru Crosstrek lost power on the highway. Dealership unable to provide definitive reason. Car key code error is what the computer came up with. Do not feel confident driving my new car any longer. Is it possible a second key inside the car could interfere?
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Check engine light came on and stayed on today. Engine lost almost all power so I guess I was in "limp home mode". CEL ODB-II code was P2138 according to AutoZone.
Accelerator position sensor malfunction
Probable causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Failed APS.
After turning off the vehicle, it seems fine at least in town but the check engine light is still on. This is the first "problem" with the vehicle and it's at about 98K.
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VERY interested in the 2.0T but when I test drove it this weekend, the transmission seemed to lurch when I was gradually gaining speed from a stop. I wasn't trying to press the accelerator hard. Just driving it like I would my car and gradually gain speed while driving economically. The 2.4 seemed to do this less, but it also did it.
For those who own 2.0Ts, could y'all tell me if this is normal? I plan on test driving other 2.0T in the event the one I drove was an exception, but just curious.
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No symptoms, or noises. Suddenly my '14 SFS 2.0T AWD stopped producing AC and heat. The fan works, though.
I'm suspecting a fuse has blown.
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I have 163,000 + on my 2009 fx4. Recently I have lost my take off power and passing power. I have the manifold leak but the dealership says that's not the problem. Took it in twice to the dealership and once to an independent and nobody knows what's wrong. No codes are showing. Had a dealership tune-up at about 120,000 miles. Need some starting points cause it's very annoying and unsafe. I tow alot and the "get up and go" is gone.
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I have a Elantra GT 2014 with about 7000 miles on it. It has been running great, pretty good gas mileage, about 28.5mpg combined. However, I do have a small irratation with it. Sometimes, during my drives, if I stop at a Red light and put my car in neutral gear, I felt the engines does a strong vibration for a few seconds sometimes. It's kinda annoying. Is that a sign of a problem for the engine in the future? or am I just being too picky?
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I have a 2013 XLT Scab that has been in twice now for a low speed to stop brake rubbing or grinding noise. The first visit they turned the front rotors and scuffed the pads, which seemed t fix the problem for about a month. The second visit they repeated the same process on the rear and the problem was good for about two months. Today while driving I noticed the noise, probably worse than I have ever heard. It seems like after about 20 stops the noise gets quieter. I am taking it back for the third time and I am hoping they will fix the problem for real this time. I am tired of burning my gas to get to the dealer and then having to ask my salesman for a loaner car. Other than this issue I love the truck.
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So I was driving along at about 50 MPH and came to a normal stop for a red light. Sitting at the light for approximately 10 seconds and feel the engine stumble or possibly misfire.
I immediately look for any idiot lights and see none, however above the mileage range instead of the pages that are normally shown I see:
LIMIT --- MPH
I drove for about a mile and everything seemed fine, I pulled off into a lot and rebooted the car and now everything is back to normal.
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For three days, my 2013 Prius has suddenly started to vibrate after coming to a complete stop. I feel the vibration in floor boards mostly and a little on the brake pedal. Oddly, I only feel the vibration on my way home from work ( summer heat maybe??).
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For about the past month, the AC in my 2014 SFS (33k miles) has been working poorly. It works okay about half of the time, but the rest of the time it's not blowing cold air. When this happens, I have to start hitting various buttons (turning AC on and off, turning inside air on and off, raising and lowering the temp), and it sometimes comes back on. Turning the car off and on also sometimes fixes it.
This has been in low 90s temps, but AC performance shouldn't be inconsistent like this. I have an appointment for next Monday at the dealer to get it checked out.
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A week ago, my wife and I were driving on the highway when suddenly our 2014 Santa Fe decided to shut off at 65 mph. When I say shut off, I mean EVERY SINGLE THING IN THE CAR DIED. All of the interior lights off, headlights off, instrument cluster, EVERYTHING. Being cool, calm, and collected, I immediately shifted into neutral, cranked, and all was back to normal. Not in the 2 years that we have owned this car has that EVER happened! I chalked it up to an inexplicable electrical anomaly.
Tonight, again, the same thing happened under different circumstances. This time, I was following her. She came to a stop at a red light, then once she lifted her foot off the brake, everything shut off. I instructed her to immediately put the car in neutral and try starting it. Like last time, it turned right back on. Apparently, there seemed to be an issue with the previous generation with the 2.4 motors.
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I have a 2014 Santa Fe and after about 2 hours on the highway the A/C freezes up and won't blow air through the vents. If I shut off the A/C and run just fresh air in about 10 minutes the volume returns, and I can once again turn on the A/C for another 2+ hours. I run the A/C on fresh air not recirculate.
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2014 SFS 2.0T with only 8,000 kilometers...
I went out into the garage last night and noticed the Santa Fe brake lights were on. No other lights, just the right, left, and the upper brake lights. I tapped the brake pedal several times, I started the car and put it through a couple gear changes, turned the other lights on and off, but the brake lights remained on.
The brake lights would get a little brighter when the pedal was pushed. The brake lights would also flicker once in awhile. I'm thinking a short somewhere so I have disconnected the battery until I can call the dealer tomorrow.
The only thing I have added to this car is a Curt Hitch and wire plug (plug and play, no splicing). This was more than 6 months ago and there has been no problems.
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