When I put down the rear windows on my 2010 they clunk when they reach the bottom. I've had similar happen on other vehicles and it was the rubber stoppers that needed to be replaced. Wondering what the cost would be (car has 94,000 kms so probably out of warranty).
View 2 RepliesI am currently on the highway in a remote area and have an oil leak at bottom of engine. There is a small hole where two housings come together, see photo.
View 9 RepliesI just purchased a 2011 LE Santa Fe,(2400 mi) and have a question regarding water leaking from bottom of the engine. I called the dealer and service rep explained it is more than likely from condensation build up on heater coil and being drained through the vent tube. I believe this is normal and have observed on other vehicles I have owned during the summer months when using AC.
I don't believe I have seen this condition in the winter months 40 - 50 F degrees when using just the heater. I'm hoping this isnt systematic of another problem, that was simply explained away by dealer. It sounds logical but then, again, I have never seen it when using the heater. I do leave heater at full blast when I start the car remotely to warm up cabin temp on those cold chilly mornings.
Recently started having issues where the master window switch will put other door windows down, but will not put windows back up. Switches at the other doors still work fine both up and down. Started with just passenger rear window, but now all the other windows act the same way. 2010 Limited AWD.
View 18 RepliesI'm at 3,200 miles on my 2010 Santa Fe and all is going well except for the fact that every now and again, the interior windows fog up. And I'm not talking about regular fog...this stuff has earned the nickname of ninja fog because it comes out of nowhere and it's impossible to get rid of. It's only happened twice but it doesn't indicate a fault of the automatic climate control. The first time was my fault. I was behind an old Thunderbird and hit the recirculate button to get the stink out. I passed the 'Bird but forgot to turn it back to fresh. The fog was so heavy that it took running the defrost on full blast for [b]15 MINUTES to clear it.
It happened again tonight but came totally unprovoked. I keep the system on automatic and set between 70 and 74 F and tonight I had it set on Auto at 72 when it happened. I was sitting at a red light and all of a sudden, POOF! There it was. Came literally out of nowhere and after running the defrost on high for the rest of the drive home, even the passenger front window was barely half-clear. I noticed the outside temperature gauge went from 44 to 41 - very quickly so I'm wondering if a quick external temperature loss causes the relatively warm inside of the glass to fog up.
My 2007 Santa Fe with 48K km developed a clunk in the front end that was most noticeable when traveling under 30 km/h. I made an appointment with West Edmonton Hyundai. This was not the dealer I purchased the vehicle from as I moved to Edmonton after I purchased the vehicle. The dealer had it fixed up within 3 hours....both sway bar end links were worn out. Just wanted to point out the good service I got. The entire bill was covered under the standard vehicle warranty.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited. It has about 104,000 miles on it. This past summer I changed the Cabin Air Filter for the first time. I believe I installed it right with the air flow arrows facing down. Ever since changing the cabin air filter my windows fog up easily. The winter time is bad now. The window Fog and ice up so much that I can't see out well at times. Even the back windows fog up bad! Defroster on high does nothing!
View 6 RepliesSuddenly I notice noice/clunk when moving from P to R/D or to P from R/D with voice like shifting something , also I am feeling Like something hold the gear sticky, I think the voice came from the transmission itself.
My car santa fe 2009 / 70,000 KM , 2700 cc automatic gear. I changed the transmission fluid since around 2 month @ 64k from the Hyundai dealer , with reset the transmission software ,
is it normal to have or there is something major , is that to indicate of problem at the transmission ??
My Santa Fe is doing a pop sound, like a clunk, when I increase or decrease the speed. It is just one time noise every time the speed changes. Like when the "gravity center" changes from the car front to rear or vice-versa.
I notice already that doesn't happen when it's shifting, neither when I go over a speed bump.
It happens in all gears, but is more noticeable up to the 4th gear.
Also, usually I can hear this noise, a little bit lower, when I'm stopped and change the gear from P to R or vice-versa.
My Santa Fe is a 2011 model with 70K kilometres ....
Got a 2007 Santa Fe CM (Europe) with 160k km. I'm currently trying to figure out how to fix the clunk noise in the front of the vehicle. I am aware about the TSB 12-DS-002 where they recommend changing the drive shaft washer, but since that's a lot of work I want to make sure that this is really the problem.
The noise is not always there. Sometimes you can hear the clunk when decelerating, but not always. You can also sometimes hear a clunk when going from D to R. It sounds like a driveshaft has some play, and a change in the direction of the force causes it to slam into the other side. However, you can't feel it, so there is definitely not a lot of force behind it. You can only hear it.
However, I asked some guys to shift between R and D while I'm outside so that I can figure out where the sound comes from. However, murphy's law, it didn't made any clunk. And after shifting between R and D for like 20 times I felt bad for my transmission and stopped it.
The clunk is not always there, just sometimes. It doesn't really make sense to me, if its really play in a driveshaft it should be always there? Also the clunk started at about 155k km, now I got 160k.
Is there any further diagnostics I could do?
My wife has had her 2010 3.5 Santa Fe since new. Over the past year it's been having a clunk develop when accelerating, happening a few times from a start until highway speed. The clunks almost feel as if one is driving over bumps - that's what I thought at first. The power doesn't seem to be there anymore either. I have been driving her vehicle the past three years and it was fine when I first started driving it. But the past couple years I first noticed a problem and it seems it is getting progressively worse. My wife now notices it quite a bit too.
View 1 RepliesThe driver side window goes up/down faster than the passenger one. I believe it has always been like that. Do you think that is a feature? Why is that? Could that be a defect?
View 10 RepliesI got a few clunk noise from front left tire area. I think it happens when I turn my steering wheel to left almost max.
And then, turning back to straight(to right). then, "Clunk"!
Today I got the clunk when I made U-turn on a street. A month ago, I heard it when I parked with fully turned front tires.
I own a 2009 Santa Fe Limited AWD with 56,000 miles on it. I purchased it new in July of 2009. I have started to hear a severe clunk in the front end when driving over rough surfaces/potholes. Not when turning the steering wheel. I have read about issues with front stabilizer link bushing. The Santa Fe is at the dealers and they said it is the front control arm bushings. $1000 to repair!
View 41 RepliesI have a UK 2006 Mk2 CDX+ which I was driving last night - seemed ok, got to our driveway, turned the steering wheel fully left so I could manoeuvre the car into the driveway when I heard a loud "clunk" noise.
I thought I ran over a bottle or something so carried on reversing, when I got out I noticed the car was parked diagonally! Thought this is strange, I don't park like that and tried again, a bit better but still not parallel! I then noticed the steering wheel was hard to turn, a grinding like noise is heard when I turned so I decided I would need to take into the local in the morning.
Started the car today and drove out and got immediate sensation that steering was not connected to the wheels, the SW was off centre by miles and turning left/right was very sluggish. Lucky the garage is only down the road (but it's not Hyundai specialist) from me as I would not risk driving it down main roads in this condition. Guy at garage asked me to fully turn the SW left to right and we can see that the front of the car actually moved during the process. He is going to take it up on the lift to look underneath.
I have a 2011 SF 2.4L FWD GLS with 79k miles. I replaced the OE struts and shocks 3 weeks ago with Monroe OE Spectrum struts and shocks. This improved the ride tremendously especially on the front passenger side where the strut was leaking.
After driving it for 3 weeks I still feel a little rattle or clunk when driving over ruff roads at slow speeds. I did check the ball joint and wheel bearings while I was in there, and I am certain they are not the source of the noise. I also checked the strut mount when I transferred it to the new strut, and while it appeared and felt ok I think it is the most likely cause of the remaining rattle and clunk.
Any aftermarket strut mounts for this particular model year? I have looked at RockAuto and they have a Moog Part # HYSB9816. This part claims it is for the European builds. Is there really a difference for this particular part?
2007 Camry V6: how miles to warm up to reach normal temp?
When i start cold (30 F ) it take at least 5 miles (in town) to reach the ''ALMOST'' 9 O CLOCK mark on the temp gauge or 185 F on my ULTRAGAUGE connect to the OBDII connector.
At 20F outside temp or less : i plug the block heater (cartridge type in the block (not coolant) )
Then when i start the car the TEMP on Ultragauge is 60F after 2 hours on 110 Volts.
Then go to city..........and take the same 5 miles to reach 185F. So same time.
My Question: is it NORMAL that it take at least 5 miles to warm up at 185F. Is my thermostat OK because it is a big (long) job to replace myself and it is cold outside .
Q.: 2 : When i stop the car about 25 minutes (20F outside temp)) the temp is down down below the first white mark on car gauge....... normal or not ?: (if not :maybe the radiator pressure cap?) Never had a japanese car.......my caddy was at normal temp before 5 miles...
My trunk will open with the FOB and cabin switch.......it will start to open, then reach about 2/3 open and then stops and closes hard. I have a custom interior panel that may be too much weight for the lid, but even when I assist it going up, it still stops and closes hard.
Is there a way to either manually override the auto open/close, or change the sensitivity of the auto close actuator?
I have a 2002 v6 petrol Santa Fe which developed a rather loud knocking from the bottom end over the weekend.
To cut a long storey short I have had the best use from this car for a long time and she has served me well so rather than patching her up I have decided to replace her with something new and less guzzley :-)
The reason I have got in touch is because I'm not sure whether to break her or sell as is. I have the space and room to break the car up but understand it will take an age to sell the parts and don't know if this is more likely to raise more cash than just selling the car as is with the fault.
Notice a leak at the bottom of the Line coming out of the reservoir and turning under at the bottom of the radiator... Not sure at this point whether this is the suction return or supply , probably return, from the looks of the spring clamps used.
It appears that some steel line is used to make a 2 ft or so loop under the radiator before it goes back to the rack.... Cooling??
This line app. 3/8 " in diamater is supported by some rubber isolators, and no doubt there is some rust which has formed in there where the line passes through the rubber, small pinhole maybe??
My new-to-me '07 Elantra has 109k on it & I'm not sure if the clutch is orig or 2nd. It doesn't slip in any gear, but the actual active section of pedal is really only the bottom 3". If the pedal is not on the floor board It isn't fully disengaged. When letting out the clutch it is effectively fully out after only 2-3" off the floor. With that said the 'free play' is only the very top 1/4-1/2" as it should be.
I've never had a clutch that felt as this one does, & I have 15yrs history driving manuals.
My first thoughts are:
1. clutch disc is almost gone & getting ready to start slipping
2. restrictor valve is clogged
3. slave cylinder is weak & not throwing full range anymore