Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Windows Fogging After Changing Cabin Air Filter?
Feb 16, 2016
I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited. It has about 104,000 miles on it. This past summer I changed the Cabin Air Filter for the first time. I believe I installed it right with the air flow arrows facing down. Ever since changing the cabin air filter my windows fog up easily. The winter time is bad now. The window Fog and ice up so much that I can't see out well at times. Even the back windows fog up bad! Defroster on high does nothing!
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I'm at 3,200 miles on my 2010 Santa Fe and all is going well except for the fact that every now and again, the interior windows fog up. And I'm not talking about regular fog...this stuff has earned the nickname of ninja fog because it comes out of nowhere and it's impossible to get rid of. It's only happened twice but it doesn't indicate a fault of the automatic climate control. The first time was my fault. I was behind an old Thunderbird and hit the recirculate button to get the stink out. I passed the 'Bird but forgot to turn it back to fresh. The fog was so heavy that it took running the defrost on full blast for [b]15 MINUTES to clear it.
It happened again tonight but came totally unprovoked. I keep the system on automatic and set between 70 and 74 F and tonight I had it set on Auto at 72 when it happened. I was sitting at a red light and all of a sudden, POOF! There it was. Came literally out of nowhere and after running the defrost on high for the rest of the drive home, even the passenger front window was barely half-clear. I noticed the outside temperature gauge went from 44 to 41 - very quickly so I'm wondering if a quick external temperature loss causes the relatively warm inside of the glass to fog up.
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I'm attempting to change the A/C cabin filter on my 2013 LS. I've followed the instructions explicitly including setting the A/C function to recirculate mode.
However, when I get to removing the filter case I press on the 2 tabs as indicated in the instructions and try as I might the case doesn't move.
Am I missing something? Is there a specific knack to this?
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I need to change the engine and cabin filter on our Camry what brand do you recommend also does it really matter if you purchase the expensive filters vs 5.00 to 10.00 ones? I ask because looks like Toyota OEM filters are normal paper filters.
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I just had the 30,000 mile service at a dealership, replaced a leaking water pump, front and rear brakes. The car has just 30k miles on it so it hasn't needed anything major despite being 10 years old. Once I got it back the front windows and windshield are fogging up. It doesn't seem to matter if the car just started or has been going for a while. We have had temperature changes and humidity changes in the weather, neither makes a difference. I have to drive with the windshield defrost on all the time. The dealer said it isn't anything they did, but it started immediately after I got it back. Is it possible that they knocked something and broke it?
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I am about to change the spark plugs on my 2007 Prius with around 120,000 miles on it. While I am doing that I wanted to possibly change the PCV Vavle. Where is it located? Also does my Prius have a fuel filter? I would change it also if it does.
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I have noticed that the interior windows fog in the morning after leaving our garage. If the temps are in the 40s-50s, I will have the heater set at 72, outside air coming in, fan set at 1. Within a half mile I have to put the defrost on and engage the A/C. At this point the windows clear, but as soon as I disengage the A/C they fog again. I don't recall having this happen in the past. I have checked to see if there is moisture in the car, such as wet carpets, but everything seems dry. It seems crazy and wasteful to have to engage the A/C at these low temps. Is this normal?
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Windows tend to fog up VERY easily in their mk6? It seems like my windows in my JSW tend to fog up all the time. Day and night, hot or cool out. I usually have my AC on low when driving. Just seems like its a little more abnormal then it should be.
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My '06 B6 2.0T windows get really fogged up when it is humid outside and it is nearly impossible to defog them. Takes forever and sometimes it's like driving a tank...only looking through a little piece of the windshield. Any info about this other than a manual wipe?
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I used to replace my LS430 cabin air filter myself. Now I have a 2012 LS460, and they have made the hatch door in the glove box motorized. I know to open the hatch, it has something to do with depressing the Fan button on the dash. But I don't know exactly what to press, if car should be running, or ignition simply On but not running, etc. What is the exact procedure that opens the little hatch in the glove box so I can replace the filter ? (And my primary reason for wanting to bring it to dealer is simply that it took me 5 minutes to do it on my LS430, vs MUCH longer to go to my dealer.)
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My 2010 Tiguan's windows are always fogging on the inside. When backing from garage, when getting in after sitting in a parking lot, temperature and humidity seem to make it worse, but it happens under all kinds of conditions. My Jetta sits right next to the Tiguan, and it rarely fogs up.
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Like a good boy scout, last week I changed the engine air and cabin filters in my 59K-mile 2007 Honda Accord.
Taking out the air filter, I saw the usual insects and dust in the housing and got out the shopvac to suck them out. But the hose was on the wrong port, and I ended up blowing the insects and dust everywhere. Augghhh! Into the intake manifold for sure, I'd bet. I connected the hose right, put it to the air intake, and prayed I was vacuuming all the dust I'd just blown in.
The next day, on the way to college, the car ran perfectly the first three miles. Then, a half mile from campus, the check engine light came on and the car began running badly. RPMs wouldn't increase even if the gas pedal was pressed. The speed couldn't be made to go above about 20 mph. The transmission, ordinarily smooth as silk, now clunked. Fortunately, I was able to reach the college parking lot. I parked the car and went to class, hoping the car would fix itself while I was gone.
Apparently it did. After the three hours I was in classes, the car started up just fine, and it drove home just fine. Except that the check engine light was still on.
At home, I used my OBD2 checker (bought five years ago but never until now even taken out of its packaging; love my Accord), saw a fault of P2101, and erased it. That made the check engine light go out. P2101 has to do with air/fuel, so it must be related to the air filter fiasco of yesterday.
By the way, there's a rattle from the glove compartment (which is lowered to replace the cabin filter). When the compartment door is open, the rattle goes away. Will troubleshoot this later. Am more concerned with being certain the check engine light doesn't come back. I don't want to go into limp mode on the highway, hours from home.
Two days later, I took advantage of a Sunday afternoon to try to blow/clean out the injectors and intake manifold. I put in a bottle of Techron and drove the car 45 miles, mostly on a nearby semi-rural highway. It has a 70 mph speed limit but at times traffic was doing 80. (Texas.) The car ran perfectly, both highway and city.
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The windows in my car, a 1997 Cougar, have recently started fogging up inside. It only started doing this for the past week week and a half. I've checked the carpets and they're all dry. My car is the only one in the parking lot with fogged up windows. What do I do?
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My current issue is as such: I started my car the other evening after a long day at work to find that when I started the car (I always leave the heater/AC control in bi-level mode with the a/c on with the fan at low or not on at all, unless I need the floor heater or the defroster) the interior of the windshield as well as the side windows instantly became fogged up. It took close to 10 minutes for the windshield to defog. Upon arriving home from work, I checked the reservoir where the coolant is recirculated and found that it was bone dry.
After the vehicle had cooled down, I popped the radiator cap and indeed the radiator fluid level was down. I replaced close to a 3/4 gallon if not a tad bit more of 50/50 mix. The next morning I started the car and the problem was still there and it took a few minutes for the heater to heat the car. Last evening and then again this morning, after the engine cooled to ambient temp, i squeezed the upper and lower hoses and there was still coolant in both hoses and thought this was odd, but I started the car w/o the fan on and the problem seemed to go away, but I noticed it didn't take any time for the car to heat up. Taking all of these things into account, is this a heater core(no coolant in cabin) or water pump problem or simply a bad thermostat?
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I'm new to the diesel having just gotten mine after having an Ecoboost F150. Question -- once the truck gets up to normal operating temps, should the climate control be capable of removing all the fog from the side windows??
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I have a rernote starter installed on my '07 SF 3.3. It will leave the engine running for 18 minutes before shutting off. If I get into the vehicle after it has been running for over 10 minutes or so, there is a strong odor of gas inside.
Where I might look for where it is coming from? If I remember to leave the vehicle in "recirculate" mode the night before, the odor is less, but my wife and I drive it equally so often the recirlcualte button will not be pressed.
Not sure if there is a leak somewhere (no other signs of a leak or gas odor while driving), or if this is "normal"...
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I took the 2008 Santa Fe Limited into the dealer for no control over heat in cabin. It turned out to be a air mixing valve actuator failure. Since the car had 60714 miles on it I needed to convince the dealer, since this is a common failure, that Hyundai should stand behind it. Since it failed before I brought it in, it failed before the 60k mark. The dealer supplied the part and I the labor.
Before I brought it in I replaced the thermostat. An old school problem fix for insufficient heat. That did nothing. Upon disassembly i found it very difficult to get at. You need a lot of patients to do this task and reversible wrists and elbows due to its location.
Also, in looking up the control system in the Factory Repair Manual I discovered this Limited heat/AC panel has an internal self-diagnosis that you can trigger. It did indeed indicate a faulty actuator. The dealer was not aware of the self-diagnosis facility having not been taught it by Hyundai during training.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS with about 68k. Starter her up this am and smelled a very strong odor of gasoline in the cabin. I check my garage floor and didn't see any leaks. Drove it for a few minutes and the smell went away. What might be causing this?
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe with 83k on it. For some months now, I have always been smelling strong fuel scent in the cabin. I took it to the workshop and was told it's my fuel canister so i handed money to the Mechanic to buy one to replace it. He called back to tell me he cannot get one to but can work on it by blocking the pipes or lines. I am not that convinced because i know the canister is there for a purpose so if he goes ahead to block the pipe or whatever, then it means something else can go wrong in the interim; but I'm in a quandary now and want that fuel scent to stop.
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I have removed this filter before but last oil change I took it to a garage as it was too cold for my liking to change oil. The cap is now stuck on very tight. This one has a plastic 27 mm lug on top with an arrow clearly pointing clockwise. I am assuming that means to turn clockwise (or reverse thread) to remove it. It simply won't budge.
I read the post where someone broke the plastic top on the housing and I do not want to have that happen. How to confirm that the oil filter top is reverse thread?
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How to replace the engine air filter in my 2010 Santa Fe? I can see where it is but I am having a hard time taking it out after I loosen the clips.
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