Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Warning Light Still On After Installing New Battery
Apr 23, 2013
A couple of times this winter my 2007 Santa Fe with a 3.3 engine acted like it didn't want to start. I thought battery! However, it stopped doing that, and I kept driving it.
On the way home from work, I noticed the ESC Off light showing, so I pushed the button and it stayed lit. Then I noticed the battery warning light lit. Made it home and pulled into the garage. Turned off the engine and tried to start, no go.
I have changed two batteries this year in my two other Hyundai's, so I just pulled it and got a new one. Installed the new one, started the engine, and the battery warning light is still lit. Must be the alternator.
I have 68k on the vehicle, so I counted myself lucky that the battery lasted that long. I guess I am due for a new alternator too.
What are the chances that it is just the regulator? Can I safely drive to and from work then to the dealership. Round trip is 30 miles.
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The alternator on my wifes '07 Santa Fe (2.2 CRDI) broke down when one of the internal diodes gave up last week. The battery warning light came on when she was driving to work. Since then the Alternator has been rebuilt and refitted, and the battery fully charged. The car now runs fine and the Alternator is putting out around 14.6v so charging the battery OK. The only problem is the warning light is still on. How to get it to turn off ?
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Before i made a post about not working MIL indicator light on dash. The thing is that i spend all the water from the windshield washer and the low fluid level warning indicator light never came on dash. So the 2 issues are related.
Is there a connector or something that i can check for myself?I check the led that operates this two indicators light on dash and it's seem to be working perfect. (I change positions one for other in the same dash).
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This is regarding a 2007 santa fe.
Today I noticed my airbag warning light came on and stayed on driving to the store. At the store, I locked the doors with the remote, but when trying to set the alarm (second click of the remote) it would not arm (no lights/horn). About 30 seconds later, the alarm then sounded on its own. Had to hit "unlock" on the remote. 30 sec later, the door locks by itself (as it should) but then again, 30 sec after that, the alarm sounds.
Don't know if the airbag light and alarm issue are related. Sounds like a possible electrical issue. We're bringing it in next week anyways, but if it's something simple that I can look for, it will save my wife a trip and gas.
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Last week a warning light appeared on screen. It flickered on and off for a minute, and I think it was going on more when I was cornering. Then it stayed on and has been on ever since.
I did a search and read the post about the clock spring recall. But it is not a recall in the UK. I'm in the UK where they sold this model from 2006. I guess I'm going to have to take it to the dealer and get them to read the codes.
Is there anything simple I can check myself first, like for a lose connection under the seats of anything like that?
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I have just had my 2007, 2.2 CRTD Santa Fe serviced at the dealers.
When it came out, I drove it home and the drivers side airbag warning light came on. I rang them to which they replied get it back in when you can and we will check it.
When it went back in, the confirmed that it required a new airbag. Not being familiar with airbags, would it really be a replacement of the whole unit?
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The wife and I took her Santa Fe to our local dealer yesterday afternoon for an oil service. I take them a Mobil 1 5 quart jug of 5w20, and they supply the factory filter.
At any rate, today while she was running errands today the battery light comes on. As I suspected, the alternator is not charging. The battery is good and strong, but I do not know if it will run the car for the 25 mile drive back to the dealer.
I also see that the alternator is directly below the oil snout where the tech would have put the new oil back in yesterday. I am wondering if he drenched it in oil, and thus the reason for the light.
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Ok so first the battery light came on then all the other lights on the dash came on, ended up dying and we replaced the battery but the abs, esc break light and battery light still are on the dashboard. Also I can use the shift release to drive the car but other then that it is stuck in park. I was reading that the car has a atm but I don't know where its located.
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About 4 months ago, I had the battery replaced since the car was not starting easily and they said voltage was not good. They also shimmed the ignition coil at the same time. I thought it was a bit early for a new battery but ok.
Last Friday I started getting a flashing battery light on the console but no other issues. Thought I would bring it in Monday.
Sunday I was driving on the highway and all warning lights came on, flashing, console died then came back on with a bunch of warning lights and then the car died. I managed to get off the highway with about 10% power and park in a lot. Car would not start once I turned it off, click, click, click, click like no power etc but rest of power in car seemed fine. Started fine Monday morning and I drove it to the dealership.
The dealership says the code was P2502 (Charging System Voltage). They are going to replace the Battery Sensor first and then if that doesn't work replace the Alternator.
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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Coming home this morning the "Caution you're running on Battery power" warning came on several times. At next start all seemed back to normal.
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Im currently installing a remote starter on my 07 camry and it wants me to tie into the "parking light" fuse or wire. It is a Bulldog system, on the website it describes it as "Black (-) wire" located at "BodyECU in vehicle fuse box 26 pin plug pin 23" The fuse box cover does not identify fuses by number and i do not see anything that looks to be parking light related.
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My 2010 Prius with 205,000 miles, has hybrid system warning, and the dealer has reported that the hybrid battery needs to be replaced, there is a prob with one module but they do not repair the batteries only total battery replacement. Also needs front brakes and tune up. I did not expect the hybrid battery failure on this 2010 Prius since my 2008 Prius (184,000miles) had no issues thus far with the battery. Both cars are every day drive cars. Both cars have been really dependable and only routine maintenance.
I had no issues with the hybrid battery until after my last service when their was some factory recall having to do with the cars computer system, and routine oil change. The car stalled out the next day, but then restarted, this was odd it felt like the car was running but would not go into gear nor respond to the gas pedal, I'm calling it a stall, I'm not sure if this is correct terminology. So, it did this a couple of times the day after service, I was shocked but I just killed the car and restarted no other issues for about 3 weeks. Then I got the hybrid system warning on the computer screen on the dashboard, UGH.
I never expected my newer 2010 Prius to have a hybrid battery failure before my 2008 older Prius.
I'm looking for options with Prius over 200,000 miles. Both have been maintained through dealer services. Dealer reports the 2010 Prius with this issue is worth 1000.00 . I'm at a loss I really want to keep the car, but now I'm unsure, and obviously think it's worth more than 1000.00.
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This has happened twice now and on the second time I hadn't started the engine and noticed that the lights had not gone out. I switched off and on again and the lights went out.
Only thing in common is the outside temperature was around 4dgs City.
Jumped in this morning, started the engine,* got out to clear the windows of dew, on getting back in I noticed the following lights on the dashboard,
- Traction control light on -stable
- Abs light on -stable
- Glowplug light - flashing
I immediately turned off the engine, waited a couple of seconds, restarted the engine and all the lights extinguished as they should. I then went on my merry way without further incident. Should I be concerned and get it checked or see if it happens again? It has now....
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I'm a Santa Fe owner since I bought a 2007 2.2CRDI 4 wheel drive model in 2008. It's been a great machine with over 340000 Km on the clock.
This motor has caused no problems until now, and oil & filter changed as specified. This motor had never needed engine oil top-ups until recently, and my tale of woe started about two weeks ago when I got a "sump level low" light when stopped on a steeply inclined drive. I stopped the engine and rolled back to flat ground where the light disappeared on re-start. I duly topped up the engine oil, and it took about two litres to bring it up midway on the dipstick.
All seemed ok until about a week later I spotted a longer than usual shut-off of the oil pressure warning light, and over a period of three maybe five startups from cold it has gone from a delay of two seconds to five, even six. The oil in use is a 10/40, so clearly that will suit cold starts best. Once the light has gone out it stays out, even after a long drive though a short stop/start will show a delay of up to a second before the light goes out. The engine still sounds smooth with no rattles that might associate oil starvation.
My mechanic thinks it may be the oil strainer in the sump, or worst case scenario the oil pump. There has been a whining noise from the engine for some time which raises with the engine rev's, and this seems (according to some blogs) maybe to be associated with oil pump wearing out?
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My company has a fleet of about 20 2007 GL AWD Santa Fe's. A few of them have had a strange problem....AWD, ESC, and check engine lights will turn on and they will lose acceleration of the vehicle. The dealership has said that it is a problem with the electronic throttle. Apparently it has been quite dangerous for some who have been driving at highway speeds and lost acceleration.
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A little over a week ago I had my battery go low and set off several brake warning lights on the dashboard. I have a very trusted mechanic and had him look it over. There were no issues whatsoever with the braking system and the lights simply occurred due to a drop in battery voltage. My question would be how to clear the lights. I have seen various people use something called a techstream and was wondering if this would be viable in my situation. If so what is the most updated version of the tech stream as well as a possible tutorial. Below for reference is a picture of the lights that were set off on the dashboard(circled). The dash isn't mine just one that I found but the four lights in question are the same.
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LS 460 of 2008: I was driving on a gravel road with LS 460 of 2008 and sudden the check engine light came on the dashboard whilst driving and also the check psc light came on and battery light came on signalling battery low. then the car just stopped and could not start.
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We have a 2011 Santa Fe we got last October. We have had four different instances where the vehicle suddenly stalled out. The first was within a few weeks of purchase and was blamed on a loose battery negative post that prevented the battery from recharging correctly. When we called the dealership service department we were told that we were not driving it long enough to recharge the battery and that the battery light would go out once it recharged. Well all the lights went out when the car died going through an intersection at night with my wife at the wheel.
The second through fourth issue is that without warning there is a total loss of acceleration then the engine light comes on. The first time this happened my wife was able to steer off the road and after a few minutes was able to restart and drive the car home. I then drove the car about a mile when it happened to me. The car was towed to the dealership where they said there was a required software update. Really?? After that it drove fine for about a month then stalled when my wife was merging onto a freeway.
The dealership checked and found three active codes: P2106 Forced Limit Power, P2110 Force Limit RPM and P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range. They also checked TSB updates and found (12-FL-004) for ECM. They also called Tech Line and recommended change of Throttle Body Assembly. This is all under warrantly. We got the car back yesterday.
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I have just purchased a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fa and was wondering as to why there is no warning when I get in the car telling me to put my seat belt on either audio/visual.
How you turn it off but I am asking the opposite, no matter how annoying that sound its safer to have that belt on.
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The past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
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