Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Vibration Hum Noise Comes And Goes When Idling
Jan 1, 2013
i have a 2.2 crdi 2009 santa fe and when my foots off the gas pedal it has this strange vibrating hum noise that comes and goes - it doesn't matter if its in Park or Neutral.
You can only hear it inside the cab so im thinking maybe its something up against the firewall but i can't see what?
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My santa fe was driving down the street and then it bucked and stopper. The starter would not turn over, nothing. New battery last weekend. Charged it up and the thing started. Even ran with the negative off the battery. It makes a whining noise inside the cab, and idling. Is the altn. going?
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Everything about my '08 2.7l Santa Fe seems/drives fine, but it always has a light clicking noise when idling and maybe even at higher revs. Is a little bit of this clicking normal or does the valve clearance need to be inspected and/or adjusted?
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I have santafe 3.5 2012 4WD , it's 51K on odometer, the problem when cold startup , Noise and small vibrate form front side , its look like from gears
When put to reverse (R) sound is louder and strong vibration from front side, all this problem gone when drive about 15 minutes.
I have visit 3 local shop they check the engine, gear box, everything normal, no check indicator appears.
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Would bad harmonic dampener cause vibration when in park or when in gear but idling? Highway speeds no vibration..
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I finally traded in my car and picked up a black 2010 ES 350, CPO, with 33k miles. However, i feel a vibration inside the vehicle while the car is idling (even when it is fully warmed up) and i was wondering if this is normal on these models? I have owned a is250, and ls460 and I didn't really notice anything like it. It almost feels like my ex's toyota camry when idling (not as loud of course). Is there a recall that fixes it? or is this normal with FWD vehicles?
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My 2010 ES350 now has about 52K miles. Recently, it has developed a vibration in the steel wheel when the engine is idle. It used to be very smooth. I wonder what has caused the vibration.
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I have a 2009 with 45,000 miles. It has been idling goofy for a while. Last winter when it was cold it the engine when first started would jump around between 200 - 800rpm when idling. I went and had the fuel system cleaned. It wasn't noticeable when it was warm out and it did not jump around as dramatically on cold starts. Lately it started bouncing on every start from 400rpm-800rpm. It drives fine, just idles bouncy. The other night it lost power while driving. The engine was running but when the accelerator was pushed it would not speed up. It was limping along at 20mph and the engine light on the dash turned on. After sitting for little bit, the engine light was off and drove normally again. I have an apt. for the dealer to look at it next week, but of course I will not be able to recreate the event and there are no error codes.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe 2.2 crdi auto with 67k on the clock. It's hard to explain but recently the car is idling much deeper than usual, that typical diesel everything vibrating feel when sat at lights. Its fine when I'm on the move but once i drop below 1000rev and more so when in Drive, not as bad in Neutral. I went over a speed bump the other day and i can swear i felt something change when i went over the bump.
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I have a 2009 Santa fe 3.3L V6 (live Montreal, Canada), since the past week when I start it up, I've noticed that after 1 minute or so while the it is idling my rpm's drop from 1000 to about 650 for split second and it seems to want to stall. The same thing happens when driving for a a small distance when ever I have to make a stop my Santa fe rpm's drop (split second) so low it seems to want to stall. Could it be related to Throttle Sensor Position?
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Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
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My 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
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Well all is ok now but I am not one to ignore or forget a symptom. After a long drive into the city over Christmas I pulled in to park at my destination. It was idling rough when I stopped. Vibration my be a better adjective but not too bad. It did not feel like ignition etc, not MIL on and putting it in Part did not change it. I shut it off and went inside for the festivities. Started it for the drive back and all was ok.
Whether some bad gas with water got in or something else I don't know as it as above freezing but I got thinking about this dam harmonic balancer pulley may have had on the 3.3L go. I have seen some post in in 2006 as well with this engine in other models. I got some 47L of quality Shell gas later on as well for the drive home days later. Still no issues but... IT HAPPENED AND I DON'T FORGET so I am thinking about it.
Is this a major problem on SF's some went as early as 30k from the owers. I had no other indicators and I doubt there is going to be much to see in the space with a light.
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My 2007 Sante Fe had problem this week. Took 6 attempts to start engine, then ran smoothly the rest of the night. The check engine light came on while trying to start vehicle.
Next day I changed the spark plugs but now find that the vehicle jerks when idling. Runs fine when going but jerks and bucks at stop lights and stop signs. Just added fuel injection cleaner to see if that may support the situation.
Engine light has come back on again since resetting. I have read several suggestions on internet regarding leak in vacuum line, Coil Pack damage due to faulty hose, even faulty 02 sensor.
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I have a cylinder 3 misfire and the vehicle is idling rough so I took it to the deal because I have a power terrain warranty. They're telling me I'll need a new manifold and plenum, coil pack, plugs, and gasket. Could this be accurate? I don't want to get screwed over...
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I have been following some discussions about a vibration at about 40 kms my has this problem also. I removed my drive shaft this morning and ran it on the hoist at that speed the vibration, noise is gone. I checked the center bearing and u-joints , the front u-joint has a tight spot. It appears the u-joints are not serviceable ,whole drive shaft replacement??
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I recently bought a 08 question Sante fe we just drove it. When it got to 70 to 80 mph i could feel a vibration in the steering wheel. What it could be. I bought it with 56k on it. Put new tires on it cuz the original tires were worn on the inside on the rears.
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My car santa fe 2009/ 4WD / 2,7 / around 70,000 kms. Around a week ago, I noticed some vibration, that I can feel it mainly on the gas pedal. I can assume that the vibration came from the front of the car and just at low speed, like below the 40km/h. Also I feel that when took my foot of the gas, the vibration gone.
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I'll try to keep this brief. I bought a 2008 Sante Fe AWD 7 passenger 1st week of Sept 2008 from Jim Pattison Hyundai in Nanaimo BC. Vehicle had a pronounced vibration at various speeds but was most noticeable at around 85 kph which seemed to vibrate frame, not steering. I called service department at the dealership. They said they would look at it during the trailer hitch install in 2 weeks.
After dropping off vehicle for trailer hitch installation I mentioned problem again. Later that day I picked up vehicle and asked about vibration. I was told "mechanic didn't feel anything". Got service manager to take a ride with me, vibration now felt by service manager.
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I had this item of concern as a response to another thread but I thought I'd open up a new thread and see if I could get any more attention.
I bought a used GLS and upon initial drives I have noticed a high speed vibration that seems to come from the rear (I don't feel any in the steering). In the colder weather recently I've noticed a pronounced vibration at a lower speed (just before shift points). between 2nd and 3rd. This seems to be worse with short drives or in morning.
Vibration seems to be worse just after a tighter right turns or even some left turns. I notice the most vibration right around 25mph. I also get it with moderate acceleration into a certain torque range. Like driving at 45 and accelerating up to 60. What is going on? It seems like it is linked to acceleration (torque) and possible pressure from turns. CV joint / axle? Wheel bearing? It seems like a tire would be worse as speed increased and more consistent.
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Just had new tires mounted and balanced on my 2011 Santa Fe. I purchased Toyo Celsius tires. I purchased the tires on line and had Faulkner Hyundai in Harrisburg PA mount and balance them.
When I drove to work 2 days later, I found that the vehicle starts to vibrate above 65 mph. When I get to 80 mph (typical traffic speed on I83 in the morning), the vehicle vibrates so badly that I shake in my seat.
This shaking leads to a feeling of lack of control. I'm hoping the dealer just screwed up balancing the wheels. Faulkner Hyundai uses a road force balancing machine.
My old near bald tires (the factory original Bridgestones) had a tiny vibration around 65 that went away as speed increased. With the new tires, the faster you go, the worse the shaking gets.
My 2011 Santa Fe still has under 30,000 miles on it!
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