I have a 2007 SantaFe Limited with 40k miles on it, first thing in the morning when I start it up there is what I can describe as an valve or lifter knock and it continues until the engine gets warm then all is fine. Oil and filters have been changed on a regular schedule,,,,,is this normal??
View 23 Replies07 Santa Fe 3.3 with 155k miles has lifter noise all the time. Much more pronounced in cold weather upon start up when the engine is cold. These miles are mostly highway and I change oil every 5-6k with Citgo synthetic blend. Is this just normal wear or could the engine be getting gummed up? I was thinking about treating the engine with some Marvel or Rislone but I really don't like putting solvents in my crankcase.
View 3 RepliesWith about 32K miles, I started getting a knock in the morning that would go away when warmed up. When I took the car in for service, I mentioned it and the service adviser said, it sounds like the timing chain tensioner leaking down, we have seen that.
Well it was not the tensioners, I was informed that, it was low oil pressure that did NOT trigger the oil light or any warnings, and my main bearings and a rod bearing were shot, it seems that the oil pump was not putting out as it should. Supposedly, it was only putting out 10 PSI. Oddly enough once the engine warmed up, there was no lifter/tappet noise that would indicate low oil pressure that I have experienced in the past with other engines.
The oil has been changed on time, the oil was clean, and the engine was not abused. Other than this the car ran fine. So the short block was replaced under warranty. This is a 3.5 V6.
This is quite disturbing, that some type of low oil pressure message or idiot light was not flashing on my dash. I have seen oil pumps from other manufacturers produce low oil pressure if the pressure relieve valve was stuck open.
I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
View 14 RepliesFor the past year or so my Santa Fe (49,000KM) the engine will knock for 5-45 seconds when I start it up after its been sitting a while. I asked the dealer and they said this is "normal" and cannot be adjusted.
View 16 RepliesMy 2009 Santa Fe (2.7 L V6 GL, 5 months old 7500 kms) just recently started making some very pronounced knocking noises on startup when the engine is cold. It never did this before and only lasts a minute or less, it's not that the engine itself is very cold since I keep it in a heated garage all the time when it's home, but when the engine is starts first thing in the morning it's very noticeable.
I have an appt. at a dealership tomorrow to get it checked, outside of an oil change I never dealt with these guy's before. What it could be? It's full of oil which they just changed 4 weeks ago.
I have a Santa Fe 2007, when the weather gets warmer it doesn't always start first time, once and a while I have to try two to three times...
View 4 RepliesI've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
View 4 RepliesI have 05 F250 SD with 150k on it. The engine has the typical cam phaser knock, timing chain slap on start up and occasionally have a noisy lifter. As long as I use fresh 20-40 oil the engine symptoms are less and the engine runs strong. The motor also doesn't leak or burn oil and the plugs were change out about 20k ago.
The truck is still good and is prefect for my needs so to me it's seems worth fixing the needed repairs. What I would like to figure out how far should I take the motor... just have the chains, guides and phasers replaced or buy a rebuilt motor and swap it? I'm thinking just doing the phases and etc would be 1/2 the cost but may not last as long as rebuilt motor. But realistically I might only put 5-7k miles are year on it anyways.
Our 1997 850GL wagon with 160k miles has persisently noisy valves. At considerable cost, we replaced the hydraulic valve lifters with new ones from Volvo. Noise persists. Increased oil viscosity, now at a ridiculous 15W40. Also using an oil additive to further increase viscosity. Little if any noise when engine is cold but once warm, much valve clicking. We change oil religiously and keep oil topped up.
View 7 RepliesThis is probably always present but I hear it most at low speed if I am off the gas and brake. Slightly accelerating or lightly touching the brakes seems to reduce or stop the noise. It is a knocking noise coming from the right front and the rate is related to car speed. I am guessing CV joint. What is it?
View 4 RepliesSo with about 70,000 km on my 3.3 V6 I'm noticing some oil seepage from the valve cover gasket. It's not enough to budge the oil level on the dipstick, and frankly not the sort of thing I would bother having fixed (especially with a leased vehicle). The only thing bugging me is that the alternator is getting pretty grimy and dirty from it, and I'm wondering how much it can take.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited with 82000 miles. I have replaced four (4) batteries since it was purchased, new, in March, 2010. I have repeatedly taken it to the Hyundai dealerships in Las Vegas, Nevada and Centennial, Colorado, for an oil leak on the valve cover over the alternator. At no time has the service technicians at the dealerships ever told me there was problem. Last Thursday, the latest new battery, installed that same day, failed. I had my independent garage technician assess the multiple battery failures, with the associated battery display light illumination, related to the location of the continual oil leak. He stated that the cause of the battery failures was from the oil damaging the alternator. I contacted Hyundai Customer Service, today, and was told that there have no reported problems from oil leakage onto the alternator, with subsequent damage to it, and/or the battery.
View 3 RepliesGetting OBD code P2422...Evaporative Emission Vent Valve stuck closed?? Had it once went to dealer they inspected...Happened again and they said they will replace a valve and possible the canister....I own a 2011 Santa Fe SE 3.5.......4000miles
View 7 RepliesI drive a 2009 Santa Fe with 51000 miles on it. Recently the AC vents on the drivers side blow air that is considerably warmer than the air on the passenger side.
View 7 RepliesI have a SF 2009 Limited. Since I bought it 2 years ago, I noticed the heater blows luke warm air. Not hot. It takes 20min for the cabin to reach 22degC when it's only 0 outside.
It was like that when brand new.
It has the auto temp control, so it might be playing tricks on me but I don't think so.
I am tempted to find the pipe feeding the heater radiator and insulate the pipes. Maybe the heater only gets warm liquid.
What else can I do?
I just had my 3rd Canister purge valve installed a month and a half ago, and it's already dead.
I noticed while I was driving that it was constantly pulsing after the engine warmed up, and continued to do so as long as I was driving.** This did not seem normal to me (I can hear it in the cab).
The solenoid is burning up and measures open circuit. No codes are thrown during the time it continues to pulse, but when it burned up again, the 3 codes (P0441 Incorrect Purge Flow, P0440 Solenoid Failure, P0443 Purge Valve Circuit Trouble) are immediately thrown? indicating the solenoid is fried.
The system runs a series of tests during normal operation, so if there was a problem with an actual leak or clog, it should show up as a test failure code, but does not. My inclination is that the problem is a sensor.
Engine light came on a week ago, finally made it in to get the code pulled yesterday : P0441
From reading on this site, thinking its a faulty purge valve.
I have found pics of its location on an 04, but cant seem to find it on my 08 2.7L.
The air con seems to work OK on the right side outlets, but the air comes out warm on the left side outlets.
View 1 RepliesWhen first starting a 2012 Sante Fe GLS with standard AC each morning, the vents blow warm for up to 3-5 minutes and therafter are fine. Additional starts for the remainder of the day seem fine. We live in a hot climate, but our 2011 Sonata, which is parked in the same garage, does not have this problem. No unusual soundsor lack of air circulation, and after 5 minutes it spontaneously starts to blow cool air. Problem began 2 months after purchase.
View 4 RepliesAircon suddenly stopped working. Seemed to be due to faulty valve on low side (bubbles coming out when cap removed). However- when testing- the clutch still kicked on ok even though it was not blowing cold air. After a few weeks I had time to look further however it suddenly started squeaking. Turns out the bolt holding the ac clutch plate has sheared. see pic.
Question: is it possible the compressor has seized due to low freon and that's why it sheared? Is it possible that it sheared for any other reason? Is compressor replacement difficult?