I've noticed that on cold starts after work, or in the mornings in start up my Santa fe's really rough at idle.. I'd like to say even slight hesitation when I take off.. I notice a drop in RPM and lately harder shifts out of first..
My sf is the 3.5 AWD w/ nav it's a month old with 2900 Kms on it..
Noticed A Slight Hesitation On Take off?
View 23 RepliesJust read the comsumer report "Annual auto issue", it reminded me the hesitation issue with the 2.0T (... page 70: We found the Passat hesitates slightly on takeoff from a rolling start..."). Is it a common problem with the turbo engines? it could be deadly when you change lanes on a busy highway.
View 7 RepliesLast night i noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration. Today i had driven around in town for awhile and did not notice any hesitation. When i got onto the interstate I pushed down the peddle to pass someone and it did nothing, I let off the gas and back on and the car bucked pretty bad. All the way home it has issues when I pressed on the gas but did fine at cruising speed. I would think a fuel filter would have been a slow progression issue so I am thinking maybe it is a sensor. I sprayed carb cleaner around vacuum hoses today and did not notice any surge so I think I eliminated a vacuum issue.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7 149k
I have an '02 Santa Fe GLS V6 2WD. I am having a strange problem and do not know what it could be. When car is cold, it starts up and runs with no problems. After about 15-20 mins, there is a slight hesitation or studder. RPM's drop slightly and shutters. When i accel, engine studders, then runs fine. This only happens when at idle in drive. At highway speeds there is no problem. What can this be?
View 7 RepliesSo I have noticed a slight hesitation from a stand still. I press the gas and there is a slight delay(maybe less then a second) before something happens. It also does not do it every time, it is pretty random.
View 4 RepliesFor a few months now I've been having strange electric issues with my 2009 Santa Fe GL.
At first, we had the cruise light randomly come on (not actually engaging cruise, just indicating the system is on), the ESC light would be on, and the tachometer would drop to 0 while driving, although the engine was clearly running. We had the cruise control switch replaced and that appeared to have fixed the ESC and tachometer issue.
Unfortunately, the cruise light would still come on so the brake switch was replaced a few weeks back - that did not fix the cruise light issue. Now, over the weekend two very disturbing things started happening:
1) Cruise will now randomly turn off when engaged
2) The car thinks it's in manual transmission mode, even when it's not. When in drive (D), the car will no longer switch out of first gear. In order to switch gears, I must switch to manual drive mode and change gears by using (+).
After the car has been sitting for a while (say about 8 hours or so) I will turn the car on and I will always wait about 30 seconds or so before moving off just to let the oil start moving around. If I go to take off the engine shudders and sounds like its about to stall and the engine revs drop to almost around 300-400 revs then suddenly come back up.
Now I drive a manual car and I know there will be people there that will say I obviously cant use the clutch very well. This happens from anywhere from a flat to a decent incline in rain or sunshine, night and day, and all different external temperatures.
But that isn't all, the kicker is if I give the throttle a quick jab to bring the revs to around 1200-1500 revs, go to take off and the car is fine. ONLY happens once after sitting around for a while, basically after the engine has a good time to cool off to completely cold. Little side note, this has been getting more frequent over the last 3 months.
I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
View 19 RepliesMy 2009 with the 3.3 motor will rev up when cold drop to a low idle then surge up again. It will do this until it is warm even when in drive. It never did this before only in the winter it would start at fast idle for a minute then drop to normal idle. There are no codes or lights, what would cause this?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Santa Fa GLS. 88K miles. This issue started in the last 6 months, once the engine turns over the RPM drop low and starts to putter as if it is not getting enough fuel. If push down the gas when starting it works. Once it passes the first 2 -3 seconds everything is fine. No issue idling or driving. What this could be? It's not an issue with Starter, Battery, my best guess would be a sensor, leaky fuel injector.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited with 47,000 Km on it.
Over the past 2 weeks I have noticed that when I go to start up the car, the ignition doesn't sound the same. Meaning, that typically when I start the car, I hear a quick turn of the ignition and away I go. When I now start up the car, the ignition does not turn over as quick and I'm now hearing a bit of a hesitation.
Purchased this vehicle new in Dec. 2011.Within a day or so,I noticed a hesitation when completely stopped and waiting for traffic to pass to make a left turn.
I started to proceed for this turn,but,no power when I slowly accelerated. All of a sudden,big surge of power ! Went to the Dealer to check this out.They said they drove the car for 7 miles,checked it scanner,etc.,but could not find the problem.
I have a 377 gti 2002 and just the other day i had some hesitation on take off. it sounded like the engine was cutting the fuel, at the time i had an o2 sensor code so i replaced the o2 and got new spark plugs while i was at it. it was still hesitating and cutting out so i figured it might be the maf because ive already replaced it once, i cleaned it and still doing the same things. i called my local vw/audi shop (audub) and he said it might be the pcv valve. i checked to see if there was air sucking in through the oil dip stick and the oil cap. its running just fine at idle and it seems that in first and second gear that its hesitating at 1000-2000 rpm and the higher gears are fine. could a leak cause this or is the pcv system bad?
View 7 RepliesMy 2009 awd SF is less than 4 years old and has about 81500 km on. In the past few days, I start to feel a little hesitation while starting the car. I have an incident today in which the car barely turn over - behaved exactly as if the battery is dying. Took it to the dealer and spent 55$ for a diagnosis => alternator is OK (what a relief) but the battery is weak. I do not think battery would die (stop holding charge) this soon. I expect at least 5-6 years of service from a battery.
View 31 RepliesI have my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo that stalls in reverse and hesitates on take off. The following is a breakdown of what has been done so far:
1. Initial Issue from March to October is hard starts; it would take 15 minutes or more to start car; it would be longer sometimes in cold weather.
2. Car would have erratic idle after startup; car reaches operating temperature before movement; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow;
car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; car bogs down on braking with idle lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
3. Issue of hard start would be intermittent; it would be less prominent in hot weather and more prominent in cold weather.
4. Sometimes in rain or wet weather, car would stall and sometimes backfire; Distributor Cap is normally changed.
5. By October, a no-start condition occurs.
6. Car starts now, idle is not erratic; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; you barely tap gas to keep from dying in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow; car
putts a little; car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; exhaust flows strongly; takeoff slightly improves incrementally with continued operation; car bogs down on braking with idle
lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
7. During idle or operation, sometimes coolant will boil in reservoir; toggle fan brings temp down to normal in between fan cycles; toggle fan keeps coolant temp normal in really hot weather.
The following parts have been changed and are still prominently new:
-Ignition Coil
-Spark Plug Wires
-Spark Plugs
-Distributor Cap (Initially Sealed With Sealant, Condensation Issue When Raining Causes Stalling)
-Rotor Button
-Condensation Cap For Distributor Cap (No Need For Sealant Now)
-K&N Air Filter
-Turbo Intake Hose (Original Had Disentegration In Spots)
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket (With New Locking Nuts and Sealant On Manifold Side, Not Block Side)
-Power Stage (Ignition Module or Ignition Stage Amplifier)
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Gauge Temperature Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-All Vacuum Hoses
-All Coolant Hoses (Including Oil Cooler Hoses)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Oxygen Sensor
-Catalytic Converter (Honeycomb In Original Rattles, Discovered Gone When Removed)
-Exhaust Resonator/Central Muffler (Original Damaged By Honeycomb, Sounded Like Broken Glass, Baffles More Than Likely Clogged)
-Idle Air Control Valve
-Starter Solenoid (Starter Tested Good)
-Power Brake Booster (Original Replaced, Failed 2 Out Of Three Brake Pedal/Vacuum Tests)
-Battery
-Radio Suppression Relay
-Throttle Position Sensor
-Fuel Filter
-Timing Belt and Tensioner
-Crankshaft Position Sensor (Last In Chain, Resolved No-Start For Now)
The following are checkpoints, mods, and maintenance:
1. Modded Airbox for more airflow, no codes present from OBD before or after
2. Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, no codes present from OBD before or after
3. Checked EGR Valve - Diaphram not broken, free movement, appears functioning
4. Had EGR Pipe Rewelded - Pipe broke from connection to throttle body, completely sealed and functional, Minimal Carbon Removed
5. No codes from EGR temp sensor before or after
6. Checked EGR Vacuum Controller through OBD - appears functional
7. Checked Fuel Pump - Repaired frayed hot wire, sealed, pump fully functioning
8. Checked Fuel Pump Relay - Functioning
9. Properly adjusted Idle Air Speed - Steady Between 700-800 RPM
10. Checked EGR Pipe to Exhaust Manifold - Minimal Carbon Removed
11. Cleaned Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner - No Soot/Carbon exiting system
12. Created Toggle with Fuse in between connection, connected to slot in fuse box, cuts off with car, slight battery drain issue before and after installation
13. Checked oil in case - oil change still new, no milky appearance suggested head issues
14. Removed and cleaned breather box - no oil deposits clogging operation
15. Checked charcoal canister - stalling in reverse happens with and without it connected
16. Checked muffler during disassembly of exhaust system - no honeycomb/debris present during testing
17. Car is at Top Dead Center - Timing
18. Fuel Injectors tested fine with OBD and Pressure present at rail
The following parts have not been changed yet:
-Charcoal Box
-MAF Sensor (No Codes)
-EGR (No Codes)
-EGR Vac Controller (No Codes)
-Compressor (No A/C, issue with stalling is unrelated)
-Power Steering Pump (Slight squeaking on rotation, PB Blaster in bearing area confirms, issue with stalling unrelated)
Other Issues : Slight battery drain coming from somewhere in the car, have to remove negative from battery for now
I'm taking my new to me 2011 KR 6.7 I've had it 1 week, to the dealer tomorrow to get them to look at the hesitation on takeoff. I have read on here that not all trucks are doing it. There is 25500 miles on it and have been averaging 15.3 mpg empty, is this about normal for what people are seeing? I'm running the 3.31 gear ad I thought I would get better mpg. This truck was built in Feb. of 2011 would it have the 400/800 settings or would it have to be flashed?
View 14 RepliesI've got a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L engine. Funny thing happened on the highway. Driving along with the cruise on, the engine 'hiccups'. Almost like a quick hesitation or someone lightly tapping the brakes.
Got it home and ran the usual tests. Computer showed no trouble codes. Checked the oil. Checked the air filter. All normal.
Turned the car on and tested it in park. Gave it some gas, and took the engine up to 3k RPMs...after a few seconds, it did the hiccup thing again. I watched the RPMs dropped from 3k to 2.5k, and then rebounded to 3k. We could also hear a slight and single 'knock' each time the RPM's would drop. I noticed the A/C was on, so I turned it off, and the problem went away. Turned the A/C back on, and the problem came back. I did that about 5 times to confirm it, and every time the problem occurred, the A/C had to be on.
Now, of course the car has 61.5k miles, and we're the second owners, so bye bye warranty. The car was in for repairs at the dealership when the head control unit for the A/C had issues. Of course now we ask them if the problem is related to their repair will they cover the costs, and they say the best they can do is ask Hyundai to cut down the expenses (even though the repair was done within the last 10k miles)?!
My guess is the compressor has kicked the bucket. Of course, I'm not sure if maybe it's the idle motor not operating like it should or if the car even HAS an idle motor to work with the RPMs when the A/C is on.
I have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
View 5 RepliesMy car is an 08 AWD 3.3 I am noticing the engine will do a slight rev up, down, up, down when cold almost daily when I leave work in the afternoons.
I removed the airbox and intake tubing, cleaned the throttle body with TB cleaner and mass air sensor with electronics cleaner. I also used about half of a bottle of seafoam in one of the vacuum lines to the engine, and the other half in the fuel tank. Also ran some Chevron fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank. Nothing seemed to make a difference. It still persists.
It's noticeable the most in neutral, you can watch the tach rev up from 800 rpm to about 1100 and back down repeatedly. If the car is in drive and the brake is lightly applied, it will want to move when its revving up.
I recently had the Blue Spring installed on my 04 X. After having it installed I still noticed a lot of hesitation on take off, and after a few seconds of trying to take off it kicks out a large cloud of black smoke and away she goes. The problem is very noticed when at the bottoms of hills it seems powerless and makes a wierd noise from the drive side of the engine bay, until I press the pedal enough to make it downshift then comes the large cloud of black smoke and she climbs up. All I know is I'm getting worse fuel economy then I should get and something just doesn't feel right when driving the X. The truck doesn't feel like it missing at all so I don't think it would be injectors especially as They are all brand new and less than 6 months old.
View 12 Replies