Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Truck Started Running Poorly After Being Parked
Aug 3, 2012
Have a 2007 and everything was running fine all day today. Stopped at home for a few hours and went back out to run a few more errands and my truck started running poorly, dashboard lights were dimming, and the ESC OFF & ABS dummy lights came on as well as the red battery light. Managed to turn around and make it back home. Sounds like my battery needs replacing? Hopefully its just the battery and not the alternator.
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Today I visited a buddy who lives on a pretty steep hill. I always set my E-brake while in Neutral to make sure it's holding the truck before sliding it into park. So I got out and unloaded a few things and was in his garage. I heard a skidding sound outside, I was about 40 feet away from it when I looked out my truck was skidding down the hill!
I ran out and to the drivers door, opened it and pressed on the brakes with left hand right when it hit the bottom of the hill and it barely stopped from hitting the blue car parked on bottom of the hill. Next time if I stop on this hill I'll make sure it''s nose up hill and make sure I have 4X4 engaged to have all wheels locked up. I know this probably happened because the lack of weight on the rear wheels but this was a pretty crazy scare with only 7800 miles on her!
You can see the skid marks from my rear wheels, my friend lives in the middle of the block.
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I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 98,000 miles on it. Three summers ago it developed a problem where on very hot days (well above 90 degrees) when first started it runs very poorly. It starts normally and has no trouble light come on. It does this even though the car may have sat in the sun for hours and the engine/cooling system is relatively cool. But for the first 5-10 minutes it hesitates and stumbles with acceleration (as if it had bad gas). In fact at first I thought it was a bad gas problem. It never actually stalls.
It does this with or without the air conditioning on. It runs fine the remainder of the year and runs OK when first started if parked in a garage or a shady area on a very hot day. I have replaced the spark plugs, air filter, oil & filter numerous times, & changed the transmission fluid-but still this problem persists summer after summer. The traction battery fan is always on from initially starting the car every time this problem occurs. Could this be a battery problem? And if not, what then?
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the last couple weeks the engine has been running poorly, rough idle .... and sputters until about 4k rpm with a noticeable loss in power. No clue what it is ... it seems to spring up after I got a coolant hose leak on top of the motor.
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I have about 160K on this truck, head gasket was repaired about 50k ago by former owner, has run pretty well and trouble free since I purchased it four years ago. Recently replaced plugs, coil packs, wires resulting in improved running/mileage. However, I've been getting a secondary air injection system error code for six months or so, (both before and after 'tune up'), performed snorkel modification to prevent uptake of road splashed water, checked fuses next to battery (good). Up to now I just ignored this sole error code since engine was running well. TPS checks 'good.'
Recently the engine would occasionally run poorly for short duration (@ all RPMs & regardless of throttle) and up to now simply parking overnight or just stopping briefly at a store would seem to reset the poor operation. Unfortunately within the last week it now runs like crap all the time: over revs for upshift, poor power, almost feels as if a cylinder is missing entirely, or timing has gone horribly 'off.' No other error codes, no obvious vacuum leaks. Ran through two bottles of Techron, no change. Does the 'toggling' of the engine running poorly/well offer any clues? Sticky injector?
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'88 K1500 350 with the Holley 670cfm TBI. Last year this truck started intermittently running rich to the point of stalling while at idle. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor and it ran fine, for a while. After a few months the same issue returned during cold weather but seemed to resolve this spring when things turned warm. Now the engine is really running rich all the time. I checked the CTS and got 2400 Ohms cold and 270 Ohms hot which isn't far form what I found as to be in spec. If I disconnect the CTS the truck runs better (idles up some) and does not appear to be running as rich but still not right. There are no codes in the computer and the O2 sensor was also replaced not that long ago.
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Sometimes the truck is hard to get started and to keep running, Once it warms up it will run fine. The next time it is started it will start fine but when you are going down the road if I try to accelerate it will start backfiring and not pick up any speed. I am getting a lean code on both banks. I have changed the IAC, the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. 2002 F150 with 6 cyl
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I have a 2005 2.7L Santa Fe that was shifting poorly and getting stuck in limp mode intermittently. I read up on it and found that it was probably an issue with the input/output speed sensors. The codes confirmed my suspicions and I replaced both the input and output sensors. The codes cleared and the tranny shifted like a dream. Unfortunately after 2 days and 100+ miles the car suddenly started down shifting randomly on my way home from work. The CEL came back on and the car went into limp mode. Could the sensor have gone bad again? Or could it be the wiring harness that plugs into one of the sensors? I don't understand why the car would be fine for a few days and then all of a sudden be acting the same way.
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we had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
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I have a 2001 F150 4.6L auto. This truck suddenly started running rough. Cleared all codes and re-scanned after starting truck. The codes are as follows; P0135, P0155, P0443, P0740, P0743, P0758, P1451, P1460, P1747, and P1760.
My question is; is it normal to have this many DTCs come up at once? Could my PCM be faulty causing this problem? Can you swap a pcm from the same year truck with the same options without reprogramming?
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I have a 92 ranger 6cyl 4L. The truck stopped running while driving then kicked on again, it did this several times over about 20 minutes then finally died and now I can't get it started. I recently replaced the fuel pump and filter and spark plugs and wires. I get spark if I ground the plug and some gas will pour out of the fuel pressure test valve when I stick a screws driver in. When I check engine codes I get an all pass. Truck will turn over and sometimes run for 2 or 3 seconds but that is it.
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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Since our weather has returned to the cold side......my truck has started bucking and hesitating at 45 mph with EOT @ 130 and ECT @ 140. I can gas on it and it will clear up/let off and it would start up again once it gets below 50 mph. Once the deltas reach 150+ it clears up completely. Its never done this until this week. FICM volts are steady @ 48V. What is causing this or what to look for?
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2003 ford explorer 4.6L. This truck will start and run rough high temp low oil light come on and temp gauge is pegged hot. Oil gauge is fine though, checked oil its fine.
I checked coolant reservoir its ok.
If I shut truck off and restart it will run ok and rev like normal and then all of a sudden go into limp mode and will misfire etc...
What sensor seems to be the main culprit?cht sensor???
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I have a problem with my 01 santa fe. When I start it the engine runs rough and when u try to give it gas it pops or backfire through throttle body and air intake tube? Checked the timing belt its ok hasnt slipped.so im stuck at this point.
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Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
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2007 GMC Sierra 1500 (MAX) ... This had happened before 3x, but was about to turn truck off and wait 10 second and turn back on. Then truck would run fine for months. I found this on my truck manual.
My truck is riding differently. Here's the story - I put new tires on Friday, an hour later, my truck started to ride rough. The light on dashboard is; Check engine, Engine power lost (truck would not get up when this was shown on dash. This error has not come up again), stibilitrac check. Truck's driving performance; Idle sputters (like RPM rising, but they are not, it’s just the engine shaking), once driving when it shifts hard at 3000 RPMs (only 2nd gear). I took my truck to Advance, and this was the error code I received; #6 Cylinder Misfiring and Actuator module.
I changed all spark plugs and number #6 was very dirty compared to the other and smelt very much so like gas. I have not driven this truck only cracked and it stayed in park. I had a person look at it, and he said that the #6 cylinder was the only problem he could find when he hooked up his code thingy. Now he played with everything and took out the #6 spark plug (this is now Tues) and said that it didn't smell of gas like it should have. At the end. he stated that we first should change the Injector for #6. and if that did not correct the problem, then he would recommend the lifters to be replaced. I asked how confident he was about "his" diagnosis. and he stated.... I am not a GM mechanic... wow. now I am confused as to what I should really do! BTW, he never cleared the error codes...
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Just going home from work and the oil light started flickering on and off, so decided to get to my local garage straight away, i pulled away from a junction and the engine started to clatter getting louder as i pulled up at the garage where it stands now.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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I've got an issue with my 2007 Santa Fe.... At the first drive of the day, the truck stalls as accelerating. Happens like clockwork and sometimes the stall is so hard that the truck stalls. I've noticed a few things... It happens when there is medium to hard acceleration from stop (1st gear) until when it shifts to 2nd. I noticed the battery and seatbelt light flash during the stall (prob cause truck just died) and then it regains power. If I put the car in manual, it rides 1st gear no problem. If I accelerate very slowly, it shifts normally and continues to drive. This only happens from 1st to 2nd gear. I've replaced the TPS, plugs, cleaned the TB and intake tube.
I have not yet took it to the dealer for the PCM update for the new TPS. What should I try next??? Crank sensor? MAF sensor? Replace throttle body? I also wondered if maybe it was an electrical issue. I've noticed when I drive into a tunnel and the auto lights come on my lights dim and the seatbelt light (no chime) begins to flash. I replaced the alternator about a 9 months ago due to failure. Or is this maybe a tranny issue? This only happens the first drive of the day. As the keep driving and come to a complete stop and continue, it does not stall from 1st to 2nd.
I pulled codes a few months back and it had about 4 codes related to the TPS. I replaced both fuel tank level sensors yesterday and my CEL is gone (truck still stalls).
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I have a huge problem!!! While I'm driving every week my 07 Santa Fe just "kicks out". First my touch screen system cuts off then the car will stop running. This morning every time I hit the brakes my check engine light would pop on then my touch screen and lights would "restart". As I was pulling into my neighborhood it completely cut out of me. Nothing worked, not even the power door locks. And I couldn't put it in park. This has never happened. Usually it just kicks out, restarts and then I can go. This has got to stop!!
In the past when this has happened I was able to pop the hood and wiggle the wire on the battery. Then my lights and everything turn back on and I can continue to go where I was going. Battery and connectors were replaced in June 2012
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