Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Ticking Noise That Slows After Vehicle Is Turned Off
Jan 13, 2013
I recently purchased a 2012 used Santa Fe. I've only had it about 2 weeks and just noticed something the other day. When I shut the vehicle off and exit, I hear a very low ticking noise coming from behind the front grill vents. It lasts for about 15 seconds and slows down until it stops completely.
I'll be the first to tell you that I know absolutely NOTHING when I comes to cars (other than how to drive one ). My guess would be that it sounds like some type of fan coming to a stop. If this is the case, I'm wondering if one of the blades could be bent, and how potentially serious of an issue this might be? Other than that, it drives great, with no other notable noises while in motion.
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This week I noticed a sound that sounds low that increases then the vehicle goes faster and decreases when it slows down. It is not wheel bearing noise. Took a doctors type scope and put it on the pulleys listening for the bearing noise in each pulley and found my alternator pulley making more noise than usual, My car needs new accessory belts so I ordered 3 new belts and will be replacing them soon. I am hoping the noise is from worn belts and not the alternator. If it is the alternator its going to cost me 250 bucks for a rebuilt one. I'm not sure if I can tear the alternator apart and replace the part bearing part. Have to look into this. Is this normal for a car with 161 thousand klm for accessory belt bearings on items to start to go bad? I sure hope the water pump and power steering and ac compressor and ac tensioner last. These all have bearings in them as well.
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I pulled out into traffic and let the RPM's get up there (6500 rpm's) and now I've seemed to have developed a weird ticking sound that is in sync with my rpm's. What could I have popped/broken? Rocker arm? I have the SUV sitting in the driveway and it makes the ticking sound whose interval increases as the rpm's increase...?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe that when the engine has warmed up, the engine starts making a ticking/clicking noise. The dealership told me not to worry all cars make that noise and it was probably just a purge valve. Does this sound right?
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Got a 2007 Santa Fe CM (Europe) with 160k km. I'm currently trying to figure out how to fix the clunk noise in the front of the vehicle. I am aware about the TSB 12-DS-002 where they recommend changing the drive shaft washer, but since that's a lot of work I want to make sure that this is really the problem.
The noise is not always there. Sometimes you can hear the clunk when decelerating, but not always. You can also sometimes hear a clunk when going from D to R. It sounds like a driveshaft has some play, and a change in the direction of the force causes it to slam into the other side. However, you can't feel it, so there is definitely not a lot of force behind it. You can only hear it.
However, I asked some guys to shift between R and D while I'm outside so that I can figure out where the sound comes from. However, murphy's law, it didn't made any clunk. And after shifting between R and D for like 20 times I felt bad for my transmission and stopped it.
The clunk is not always there, just sometimes. It doesn't really make sense to me, if its really play in a driveshaft it should be always there? Also the clunk started at about 155k km, now I got 160k.
Is there any further diagnostics I could do?
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My 2007 Santa Fe Limited 3.3L with 102,000 miles started making a grinding/ticking noise yesterday. It's hard to tell but it sounds like its coming from directly under the center console. The noise is directly proportional to the speed and if I put my hand on the shift selector, I can feel the tick vibrations. It drives and shifts fine. What it could be? I'm hoping it's not a transmission issue. I'm thinking something with the AWD connection to the rear wheels.
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When I start my vehicle, it makes a grinding noise, sounds like it's coming from the front of the vehicle, when I put into gear it stops. It started gradual and is getting worse. It's a 6 cylinder automatic, with 108 k miles.
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I get this loud click noise coming from the front end of my vehicle when I apply the brakes. It seems to happen much more often than not, especially at low speeds. I can only describe it as some sort of loud clicky clanky sound, it's also a single sound, it doesn't go on and on and it only happens when I apply the brakes.
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I have a UK 2006 Mk2 CDX+ which I was driving last night - seemed ok, got to our driveway, turned the steering wheel fully left so I could manoeuvre the car into the driveway when I heard a loud "clunk" noise.
I thought I ran over a bottle or something so carried on reversing, when I got out I noticed the car was parked diagonally! Thought this is strange, I don't park like that and tried again, a bit better but still not parallel! I then noticed the steering wheel was hard to turn, a grinding like noise is heard when I turned so I decided I would need to take into the local in the morning.
Started the car today and drove out and got immediate sensation that steering was not connected to the wheels, the SW was off centre by miles and turning left/right was very sluggish. Lucky the garage is only down the road (but it's not Hyundai specialist) from me as I would not risk driving it down main roads in this condition. Guy at garage asked me to fully turn the SW left to right and we can see that the front of the car actually moved during the process. He is going to take it up on the lift to look underneath.
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96 Ford Explorer, 78,000 miles After about an hour on the highway (60 mph), the vehicle slows and cannot increase in speed. It does this until it slows to less that 20 mph. Pushing on the accelerator increases the rpm, but does not result in an increase in speed. It only does this after an hour or more on the highway (city driving does not cause the problem). No one can diagnose the problem; already took the vehicle to the dealership and a transmission specialist (both said nothing was wrong). Hoping very much to keep this vehicle.
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I have noticed sometimes when I turn my car off it will chime until I exit the vehicle and close the door and then sometimes it doesn't do this it at all. What's the catch?
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I have a 2002 Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.7, auto trans. 214,000 miles. Transmission had a complete rebuild in August 2015. Last few days when driving slowly (5 mph) there is a rhythmic clicking or ticking noise coming from the center of the vehicle, best I can tell with my limited hearing. Noise is variable with car speed. With rear axle on jack stands in gear and idling, and my kubota backed up to it for safety ,sound is still there. All U joints appear to be fine, they are tight and there is no sign of fresh rust at the bearing caps. All axle boots are fine, no holes or anything else. I originally thought front hub assembly but the jack stand test rules that out. Not sure what the heck it could be.
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2009 corolla bought in early 08's so car just about 5 years old. This morning when I turned the heat on I heard a ticking noise. I'm assuming it is the from the heater blower motor? I think the part is behind the glove box. Where is the best place to get the part and where is the best place to find how to do the install?
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I stuck my phone down by the electric motor and recorded this while the car was running:
My '06 has been making this odd noise coming from the front of the vehicle. It's coming from somewhere under the hood on the right side (the driver's side), and I think it's under or next to the electric motor.
It happens when warmed up, and only when the vehicle is turned on. It doesn't seem to be related to the ICE, because the noise happens regardless if the ICE is running or not. In fact it happens rarely, so when I heard it I jumped out and tried to locate it (and recorded it with my phone).
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe SE. Drove it the other day, vehicle sat for about 45 minutes, got back in and it would not crank. It had lights and power, but made no cranking sound when the key was turned. Tried to start it numerous times, waited 15 minutes to an hour then it started just fine. This has happened 3 times total. Each time the vehicle was driven for about 15 minutes then sat for awhile then would not start, but was able to start after waiting for awhile.
Brought it to a garage/mechanic who could not get the problem to repeat itself. He checked the battery hookups and looked it over, but did not see anything out of place. He did not hook it up for a diagnosis.
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When driving I seem to be constantly applying pressure to the left side of my steering wheel to keep the vehicle from moving to the right. I've had the car aligned made sure my tire pressures were correct and had my mechanic check the undercarriage to make sure ball joints tie rod ends etc. are all in good working order. Despite all this the vehicle seems to want to wander right and I'm constantly putting pressure on the left side of the steering wheel.
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Wife called me this evening saying she's stuck at work. She was parked in a parking garage on the 3rd level, she started the car up, coming down the ramps of the garage and on the first floor at a stop sign, the vehicle stalled out on her. She went to restart it, but it will not turn over. I come out and tried to start it with no luck. I did notice on the positive side of the battery terminal there was a lot of corrosive discharge. I cleaned that all up, but still no luck. Everything has power, bright interior lights and headlights okay. I originally thought it was just cold or lean... But still won't kick over.
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I have a 2007 2.7L with 150,000 miles. Yesterday while driving at 20mph my engine all of a sudden started knocking like I lost the timing belt which I replaced 10,000 miles back, including the tensioner fully (bought as a kit off Rock auto). I parked immediately. Today we investigated a little more and what we found is that os is more like a loud knock and not a metal on metal sound. It definitely knocks faster or slower with the RPM of the engine. It even ceased for a while and the engine idles silently but then on the next restart it came back.
It even went away again with an increase in RPM but then came back at an idle or sometimes didn't. You can clearly hear it in the rear of the block. I will admit I have never changed the plugs. We can a scan on it and a misfire in #4 cylinder came up. Unfortunately my check engine light is always on because I have a bad sensor in my fuel tank that ill get to some day. So I'm not sure if that code is recent or not. I know I need to identify the location of the sound more closely before anyone touches my motor. Could it be bad gas that causes a misfire and knocking? I have had that code before and new gas fixed the misfire but there was no knocking then. I religiously change my oil every 5000 miles and just did 500 miles ago.
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I have had an ongoing issue with my 2010 Santa Fe Limited with the battery randomly being drawn down and would not start the vehicle.
I saw a post somewhere on the internet to remove the Negative connection on the fender and grind it down to the bare metal so that it has a good ground connection.
I have done that last week, but last night before turning in for the night i looked out the window and saw lights in my driveway. I went out to investigate and found that the Santa Fe's turn signal/hazard lights were all on front and back and not flashing.
I got in the vehicle and turned the lights on and off with no keys and they all went out.
I got the schematics for the Santa Fe and i believe it could be the Hazard relay that seems to be located inside the I/P Junction box or could be the Hazard Relay Control in the BCM.
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My 2007 Sante Fe had problem this week. Took 6 attempts to start engine, then ran smoothly the rest of the night. The check engine light came on while trying to start vehicle.
Next day I changed the spark plugs but now find that the vehicle jerks when idling. Runs fine when going but jerks and bucks at stop lights and stop signs. Just added fuel injection cleaner to see if that may support the situation.
Engine light has come back on again since resetting. I have read several suggestions on internet regarding leak in vacuum line, Coil Pack damage due to faulty hose, even faulty 02 sensor.
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We went camping and my girlfriend wanted to take her brothers fishing boat for him, on the way back the electronic stability control light came on and when we reached our destination we discovered it wound not shift into or out of park without using the key override.
2011 front wheel drive santa fe ...
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