Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Throttle Went Full Then Back To Idle
Jul 19, 2012
Just talked to a good friend with a 2008 limited, V6. While his wife was driving the throttle went full, then back to idle, then full while her foot was off the pedal. She put it in neutral got to the side of the road and turned it off. She just had towed to the nearest dealer. She said the dealer suspects the Throttle Position Sensor....seems to be a common problem for Hyundai, based on other issues seen on this forum with some losing power, etc. Surprised there isn't more information from Hyundai as the TPS seems to be a weak point.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and am having a major problem. On 3 different occasions, the accelerator pedal has stuck open at full throttle. At first I dismissed the problem as a fluke or the floormat and pedal getting stuck together.
This week while on vacation with my family in Myrtle Beach, SC, I was pulling onto a 4 lane and had to "punch it" from a dead stop to get up to speed with the other vehicles. When I got up to the desired speed I let off of the accelerator pedal and to my dismay the vehicle kept going. I told my family to hold on and immediately hit the brake and safely pulled into the median while the vehicle was still surging. With my foot on the brake my wife put it in neutral and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up. I checked to see if the floormat and accelerator pedal was stuck together somehow and they were not touching. I do not know if it was me freeing up the pedal with my foot or if the vehicle some how on it's own finally reved back down to normal RPM's.
In essence my family and I were in a runaway vehicle and luckily the braking system was strong enough to safely stop us while at full throttle.
This was a scary experience for my wife and I and a horrifying experience for my children. It was the exact situation Toyota had a couple of years ago with the accelerator sticking on their Prius models.
Is the accelerator system a mechanical one with a throttle cable going to the throttle body or is everything computerized. I do not know if it is a mechanical or computer problem.
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My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
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I was driving along nicely, then faced with a climb up the hill, I floored it ... the throttle stuck fully and the revs up to 5000 RPM and the governor kicked in, zoom ... hmmm zoom hmmm .. I was lucky cuz I shut off the engine and was able to coast back down to my driveway. No code reader, I decided "how hard can that be" since it happened once before and then worked ok for 6 months ... maybe a linkage, etc
A friend looked at it and tried the old process of elimition ... unplugging the MAss Air Flow connector ... trying it ... then the TPS on the throttle body. He suspected one or both. So I replaced them... happy to get the sucker started without revving uncontrollably. But the pedal was sticky, the idle speed too high and when you press the brake pedal ( and nothing else ) the car stalls, putt putt putt kerplunk. Starts up again tho. but impossible to drive like this. So I gets me a code reader .. follow the directions and this is what I get now
P0441 Evaporative Emission system Incorrect Purge Flow ( this is an easy one even for me ... the engine light came on last time I fueled up - gas cap was not turned enough ) no brainer
P0122 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0101 MAss or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range / PErformance
P0222 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P2119 Throttle Actuator Control Throttle Body Range / PErformance
P2112 Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed
P2422 Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve Stuck Closed
Puzzling since whatever broke started working again spontaneously last time. I figure, it cannot be all the above at the same time .. perhaps one of the early sensors?
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe. If I fill the tank to full, or close to full I will have a fuel smell in the car until the tank runs under 3/4. If I keep it under 3/4 I usally do not get the smell in the car.
The dealer could not figure it out and I still have this issue. It seems the smell is more in the front of the cabin then the rear. It just could seem that way since the smell is very strong. I have to park the car with the windows open.
There are no fuel leaks, no fuel on the ground, no drips, and the no spillage when I filled the tank.
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I was driving today and at a traffic light a severe smell of burnt plastic filled the cabin and the A/C blower started to change speed than stayed at full blast and even if I'd turn the knob from side to side or tried to shut everything off with the ""OFF""button nothing would happen........so we drove home and at some point it shut itself off...tried it again and seems ok now.....every dealer closed today and leaving for the USA tomorrow morning.... What the problem could be?
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I have just purchased a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and there is a problem with the steering. At slow speed, particularly in reverse when performing a full-lock turn, the power delivery is jerky and the vehicles jumps a bit.
It feels like either the AWD system is binding or the CV joints are operating beyond their limits. I have ready other posts that this is a known problem - the dealer I bought it from said the same, that it is known and seems to be accepted by Hyundai, there seems to be no recall on this and apparently this doesn't happen in post 20009 models when they face-lifted and supposedly changed the steering lock limits.
I'd like to understand more what is happening, see if there is a solution that I can implement, or alternatively if I have to just accept this, then it would be good to get reassurance that what I am feeling is not going to damage something further down the line.
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2008 hyundai santa fe. 106,000
Bought the car six months ago.Found out 2 weeks later we couldn't put gas in it. Dealership refused to fix it because we bought as is. So we managed to find one gas station in a 20 Mile radius that we could put gas in it.It takes around 10 minutes to put half a tank in. Shortly after that the gas gauge started to fluctuate from full to empty. And the check engine finally came on. Had the the check engine light checked.Fuel level sensor A was faulty. Took it to a local Goodyear in stead of the dealer ship. The sensors were 119.00 a piece and the labor was 145.00 to replace both. Had both replaced .Fuel gauge is working correctly now. But still having issue putting gas in car.
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Replacing the tps themselves? Is it something a newbie at diy car stuff can do? I'm getting codes P2016, P1295 and P161B, and I see no problem with the car except one thing, when the engine is cold the shift from P to D is rough. Is the tps causing this?
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Driving on the motorway yesterday, all fine until i lost power..engine light came on, but I was able to continue driving for about 6 miles (trying to get to services) but eventually it would go no further, pulled over and found that the intercooler pipe had come off, replaced it but still no joy.
Recovery van attended and plugged in diagnostic and found a dpf fault and gas pressure valve fault, he cleared the light but i think the faults still remained.. so i had to be recovered home.
The engine will start but it does not quiet sound right, no response from the throttle and if i put it into drive the engine stops.. Its a 2007 2.2
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For the most part, I'm pretty happy with my 2010 Santa Fe SE (V6 AWD Automatic).
When I'm coming up to a yield sign, or otherwise slowing down to say 5-10 miles an hour but not a complete stop, and then when I start to try to go again, there is a hesitation and then the vehicle kind of jerks as it starts. It's like it takes a half second to a second for the throttle to respond, and by then it revs higher than I expect. I don't know if it's the throttle delay or a delay downshifting before it starts, or a combination of the two.
I've also noticed that a half second or so delay when just sitting in park and quickly pressing the throttle and releasing. I can press the pedal to about 50% and release it before the RPMs respond at all. Then it'll rev up and back down as you'd expect, just not WHEN you'd expect.
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4 months ago we bought a 2010 SF V6 with 70,000kms - we immediately noticed this very harsh 2-3 transmission sift under light to moderate throttle. Mostly in parking lots or accelerating slowly. Took it to the dealer and the flashed the ECU - - - this made the issue a little better.
I was reading around the net - the problem seems to be associated with sticky solenoids. I decided to change the fluid < 4 drain and fills > to Maxlife and I added a product from a company called Lubegard, this completely eliminated any harsh shifting at any speed or throttle.
I dont know if it was the additive or the 90% new fluid - however if the solenoids are the cause - keeping them properly lubricated seems like a good idea.
I will also be installing a Magnefine inline transmission filter as well. I have used them in the past with great results.
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My wife's 07 Santa Fe goes into limp mode while she's on the freeway. Had it towed to a mechanic. They report codes were: 0101, 0102, 1295, 2105, 2106, 2173. They said the sensors in the gas pedal were sending bad signal to throttle which burned out the actuator. So they wanted to replace throttle body and gas pedal sensors. They wanted $895.
Didn't seem right, so towed it to dealer. They said the first mechs were just guessing. Only the throttle body needs replacing. They wanted $960 total.
I bought a used throttle body off another 07 SF with similar vin number to avoid needing the ecm to be reprogrammed. Cost $225.
Couldn't find procedure for replacement in my pdf shop manual. Seems like this should be simple though. Anything special I need to know? Am I on the right track?
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My 2011 santa fe radio turn off by it self and come back on when ever he want. It start this 2 weeks ago, some day everything work fine, and other days is doing this. What the problem is? Its the basic radio not the infinity.
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I have a metal sounding rattle coming from the back of the vehicle. It sounds like it is coming from the hatch area. I removed all loose things (jack) and the noise is still there.
I checked the license plate and put foam behind it, I wrapped the latch with a layer of tape. The noise seems a bit better but still there when on rough roads.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS. I took both LCA's out and replaced the bushings and the ball joints with Hyundai original parts.
I installed the bushing ends of the LCA, put the bolts thru both bushings, and then tried to insert the ball joint into the knuckle. No go! It goes in about a 1/4 inch.
How do you get the ball joint end to go all the way up, inside the knuckle? I am thinking of pounding the heck out of it till it goes in, but not sure.
I've disconnected the outer tie rods, and the links to allow for some play in the knuckle, I just don't know what I am doing wrong.
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We have a 2007 Santa Fe with 78,000 miles.
It's recently developed an issue where it has cut off on two different occasions within the past 2 weeks.
My wife said both times happened as she was slowing down and it felt like she was losing power. The vehicle cut off and then cranked right back up.
I've taken it to my personal mechanic as well as the dealership for diagnostic tests and neither were able to replicate the issue or find the problem.
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As I'm driving my 2007 Santa Fe with the A/C turned on, it will randomly turn off. I'll try to push the button to turn it back on and it won't turn back on, I wait try it again and eventually it turns back on. There are times when I'm driving without the A/C on and it kicks on by itself. After about 3months of this weird on and off, my A/C now will NOT turn on. The other day my friend gave the glove compartment a kick and it miraculously turned on. There was even an instance where I was driving over bumps in the street and my A/C finally kicked on and even when I've hit the brake hard it's turned on. I want to get this fixed but do not have the cash right now to take it to a mechanic or the dealership. Would this have something to do with the compressor? Is it electronic?
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe, I have been having issues with the power. I tap the brakes and the lights go dim and come back on. Then when the truck is turned off then back on I have nothing like the truck is dead. I replaced the battery and still same issue. I then replaced the alternator and I thought it was good. Just today I decided the use the keyless remote to lock the truck and it locked but not horn sound. I tried to unlock the truck with the remote and nothing. I opened the door and no lights. Turn the key and nothing. The battery still has power to hit. What it could be?
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2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.
Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this...
1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads.
2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads?
3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.
So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here?
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My 2012 Santa fe crdi2.2 has 150000km. At the speed of 90km/H and faster there is a vibration coming from the back (passenger side I think).
There is no play on that wheel when it’s in the air, but it doesn’t turn smoothly. It turns smoothly until a point where there is obviously friction, once past that point it turns smoothly again for 3 quarters of the way until it reaches the same point…
The back wheel on the passenger’s side is the same story. Although the vibrations seem to come mainly from the driver’s side (at the back). Is this a wheel bearings problem or can it be something else?
I put a winter wheel at the back (driver’s side) to see if the problem was caused by the wheel. There is less vibration when driving, but it also starts at 90km/H. This winter tyre is higher, so probably it absorbs the vibrations better.
It's not a 4x4.
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