Replacing the tps themselves? Is it something a newbie at diy car stuff can do? I'm getting codes P2016, P1295 and P161B, and I see no problem with the car except one thing, when the engine is cold the shift from P to D is rough. Is the tps causing this?
View 9 RepliesI have searched and have not found any information on replacing the throttle position sensor. My Santa Fe was running normal. I changed my tp sensor and how it limps along. When I loosened the old TPS, not even removed it, I heard a noise inside the TPS. When I replaced it I adjusted the TPS to read between 9 and 10% on my reader. But when I push on the gas pedal with the key on position the percentage doesn't move. Also when I drive it now it limps along and does not accelerate.
View 2 RepliesGetting code P2125. Read on here to get some electric contact cleaner and see if that works by cleaning the connections.
If I do end up changing out the Throttle Position Sensor, what voltage value do I look for when installing the new one ?
Ford catalog does not list the TPS for a 1999 7.3 Super Duty as a separate replaceable part which leads to replacing the whole throttle pedal assembly. I found this to be incorrect. If you have a throttle pedal assembly with separate TPS (separate 3 wire connector) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch 2 wire connector) just the TPS can be replaced.
This is a pic of my 99 with new TPS installed : [URL] .....
Without removing the whole assembly you only need to remove the 2 T25 screws and the connector to replace.
Since this part is listed for more then 20 Ford trucks I figured it would work in my 99 7.3. I bought a brand new TPS from Pete (F250_) that he could not use. He has a 2002 with one 5 wire connector. It works perfectly in my 99. Not sure if it will work in a 2000 or 2001 but if the TPS and IVS each have their own connector it should. Make a visual inspection to be sure.
Part DY-967 or F4SZ-9B989-AA - Potentiometer
I was going to go with a Dorman TPS but like PartsGuyED likes to say "OEM Baby". The OEM TPS through Ed is actually cheaper then the Dorman.
Side-by-side pic of the old and new TPS. Only the center rotating part is different but it fits and works just fine. It also has a better fit so there is less slop and almost immediate response.
NewOldTPS.jpg?t=1269362105
By the way, the original TPS was working fine so I have no idea what the symptoms of a bad TPS are. Since it was available I replaced it to have a spare and to see if this one would work. Both Pete and I thought it would and we were right.
After heavy rain yesterday my 2005 2.7 Santa fe wouldn't start today. Had it towed to nearby dealer. The crankshaft position sensor needs to be replaced. He claims its melted to the block and oil pan needs to be dropped to remove it.
View 5 Replies2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
View 5 RepliesI need to replace O2 Sensor which is Bank 2 Sensor 2 which needs to be replaced.
Where is this located on a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3L
I was reading the car's settings using the Torque app and an OBDII bluetooth dongle and I realize that at WOT the ECU is only seeing 85% from the TPS. O know on some vehicles there is an actual procedure like turn the key forward, hold the gas pedal at WOT, turn the key all the way forward w/o starting while pulling the turn signal stalk down or something crazy like that to force the ECU to re-measure while you keep the gas pedal pinned to the floor. I know on other cars when it doesn't read a full 100% you miss out on a small amount of power and MPG so if it's an easy procedure with these cars I'd like to reset it. I did some searching but mostly came up with info on how to replace it and a few related subjects but noting on this specifically for this car specifically.
View 2 Replies2004 VW R32, No engine mods. I did have the vacuum line sealed off for the flapper mod for about 3 months but is is now back to normal.
I've got the MIL, ESP, and EPC lights on and scanning codes as follows:
Code-P0222
Definition:
- Throttle pedal position (TPP) sensor/switch "B"
- Circuit Low
Explanation:
- Open or short circuit condition
Probable Cause:
- Poor Electrical Connection
- Faulty TPP sensor
- Faulty throttle valve control module
I don't know much about the situation but I took it to my friends shop first where we replaced the Throttle body, intake, and MAF. Didn't fix the problem so I took it to my local VW dealership and the tech's exact words were.."the codes coming up as a throttle pedal sensor. Is there perhaps a sensor by the pedal that I could check?
Am getting an EPC light + limp mode + code for accelerator position sensor (implausible signal). I have swapped out the pedal assembly, so it isn't the sensors themselves, and we've checked the wiring to the pedal assembly... I can feel in-car, and I can see via VAG-COM that one of the two sensors is basically toggling between a sensible % reading of pedal position at one moment, and then zero % the next, and of course every time the sensor reads zero, the ECU notes the error and cuts power... but this only happens when the steering wheel is straight or when turning to the right; I can drive around in a leftward circle all day and night without this occurring.
Why? What is there in the steering (either in the column or at the wheels, or basically any place in between) which, if malfunctioning, could affect the accelerator position sensors in one way or another (i.e. either through the normal operation of a safety system, or through a short or other electrical gremlin)?
my old lady has a 2001 olds intrigue with the 3.5L in it. Sunday evening we replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Coolant Temp Sensor. Monday she was on her way back to Iowa and the tempature gauge spiked up to the Hot area. I looked it over and could not find anything wrong. I sent her on her way and she made it about a mile before it did it again. The car will spike up to the hot area but the motor shows no signs of over heating. I checked the temps with a heat gun while the car is idling and read out Thermostat housing-160, Rad-80, Rad hose-130, and coolant 170. I than ran the car up so it shows on the gauge its hot and than checked again, it than reads Thermostat housing-172, Rad-100, Rad hose-134, and coolant 184. If I am running it at 1500 rpms it will spike up but once i take it up to 2500 rpms it drops back down to normal on the gauge. I am lost for what it could be.
View 19 RepliesHow difficult is it to replace the crank position sensor? It looks pretty tucked away at the front of the engine. Just wondering how much time I should put aside for this job.
View 15 RepliesThe Problem: When I start my Ranger it dies right away, I do this about 10 times or so (worse when it is wet or has rained) then I can finally keep it running, by hitting the gas. Once I get it running it will cut out while driving as well. The idle is normal and if fires properly, I just took it in to the shop (non-dealer) and they said it fires normal and has normal fuel pressure, and the their computer returned no error codes. Their sugestion was replace the throttle position sensor. Do you all think this part could be the cause and where is the this sensor and is it hard to replace?
View 12 RepliesEverything I've found on replacing the crank position sensor on my 2002 5.8l Chrysler town & country says its on the bellhousing but its not there!
View 3 RepliesBackground: Check engine light indicated a problem with the throttle position sensor (unfortunately, don't have the exact code). The TPS on my model ('96 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L) is the non-adjustable type. There are three wires going to the TPS -- a power source, a signal wire, and a ground. The TPS acts as a potentiometer and depending on the throttle position, sends a voltage signal down the signal wire to the computer.
Here's my question/issue: After disconnecting the TPS, I tested the three wires with a multimeter. Power source (5V) and ground were fine. But I'm getting a voltage reading of about 4.35V on the signal wire. It's my understanding that with the TPS disconnected, I shouldn't be getting any voltage on that wire. Does that sound correct? If so, what would be causing me to get a voltage reading there? I'm assuming some type of problems with the wires, maybe an exposed wire on the signal wire somewhere?
I need to replace the crankshaft position sensor. On my 2002 Grand Caravan Sport 3.3liter. Where it is in laymans terms.
Is it better to approach from the underside Or from the hood side? I will know it when I see it but I haven't seen it yet!!
SO, my Buick has given the code for bad TPS, and it was replaced a little over a year ago...and now after the same symptoms, replaced again.. However, this time, right after replacing, it gave the code again, and still stalls out /doesn't want to stay running especially when put in gear. My regular mechanic also recently just put on a new catalytic converter and a new fuel pump and fuel filter. I'm at a loss, and desperately need my car back.
A little back history...about 3 years ago a 'friend' was to work on my car to install the thermostat and power washed the engine...which shortly after started having all kinds of electrical issues. Right after that, my mechanic had to install a coil, spark plugs, new ignition panel and the 1st tps.
I had an engine swap recently done on a 2005 Honda Civic, and within a couple days, Check Engine light came on. Mechanic ran the error code and I have to apparently replace the camshaft position sensor. They are claiming that the sensor was not replaced in the engine swap, and so not covered by any warranty.
View 10 RepliesRecently on two occasions I pressed the accelerator clear to the floor with no response. After shifting into Park then back into Drive it drove normally for about a week. Now it has stalled out and was very stubborn to restart. Once running, the accelerator will sluggishly rev the engine while in Park, but in Drive, will not respond. TPS sensor or something else?
2004 6.0 Diesel, 75K miles, no mods, well maintained.
Replacing Steering Wheel position sensor. How hard of job is it?
View 6 RepliesGot told by the dealer I need to replace my Mass Air Flow Sensor...to the tune of $657 dollars. And get a throttle body cleaning.
View 14 Replies