Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: The Brake Light Fuse Blew Out
Aug 14, 2014
I have a Santa Fe 2001 and I towed a trailer today. It was fine at first but when we were trying to position the trailer at the destination the brake light fuse blew which meant the gear stick would not move. Figured out how to start the car again and used the shift lock release to move into drive to get the car off the road. I had to keep pushing that shift lock release button in to change the gears. I had the RACV guy come and change the blown fuse for me, and brake lights are fine now and the car starts, however the gear stick is still playing up. It went ok from park to drive, but then on the way back to park it got stuck at Neutral. Then had to use release again. Checked the fuse and brake lights, all is good there. What could be causing the gear stick to get stuck now? RACV guy couldn't understand why, he said replacing the fuse usually solves the problem.
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I have to press Cancel before I can get my cruise control to work. I had a problem about a year ago where my cruise control wasn't working, and found out that a blown brake light fuse was the problem. Now I turn my CC on and the "Cruise" light comes on, I then press the set button, and nothing. I then press the cancel button and then the set button and then the "Set" light comes on.
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Have 2 problems that are giving me major problems.....especially with 100 degree heat in Dallas.
1. Ac stopped blowing cold last night out of blue. Still blows just not cold. Replaced bad fuse and drove for 5 minutes. Blew again. Checked out the control/ circuit board but looks ok. Really cant afford dealer.
2. Check engine light problem for months. Gas gauge wasn't working. Replaced fuel sending units and it fixed that but still light. Code says p441. Dealer said need solenoid valve. Replaced both the solenoid valve and the purge control valve. Still check engine light.
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I have a 2009 Camry LE. My right rear brake light blew out, but no warning light seems to pop up on the dashboard. I only realized the brake light went out when someone pointed it out to me. How can you tell that the brake light blew out? (I checked the manual but didn't find anything)...
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Have a 2012 Santa Fe, I originally bought brand new off the lot and now Ive noticed moisture in the brake light. Is something of this nature typically covered under warranty?
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L v6 and the right brake light doesn't work all the time. When the vehicle is parked ignition on motor off the light works. Yet when driving I have been told my right brake light is out. I read that the turn signal switch assembly could be the problem.
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Within three days the alternator and fuse #23 blew. After replacing these and the fuel filter (because of stalling during acceleration), I took it for a diagnostic check at O'Reileys because the stalling while accelerating worsened, it wasn't shifting correctly and the O/D light began flashing on the shifter. It hit on these 13 error codes:
P7055
P0446
P0750
P0443
P0743
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P2195
P2197
P0423
P1747
I have researched each code (definitions, what to examine/test, and the locaton of each part). My question is that with this many hits is it most likely a problem with the PCM, or should I just proceed with checking each connection, wiring and solenoid individually? The EGR Valve tested fine and the alternator is pushing 14.6 v...
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I have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
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In an attempt to install HIDs on my 2013 f150 screw 4x4 I hated them and I broke my truck. I blew a fuse for the left headlight which I replaced.
My battery now reads 11.9v, I have no dash or radio lights and my truck won't even attempt to start. I can't exit park either. My door locks inside the vehicle work but my remote is useless. My headlights and dome lights work but that's it light wise.
Is my battery just too low and needs to be "reset"? If not my battery does it sound like a main relay or the body control module or similar?
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I have a 07' hyundai santa fe and recently I had a 10 amp fuse blow labeled A/CON and so I replaced it and it worked for about 2-3 weeks and it blew again, and so I'm getting more fuses Monday to see if it keeps working, but from what I read online it looks like the field coil is the culprit, I tried to read the ohms from the relay and got .5 kohms (which I see its supposed to be 3-4ohms) but i have a crappy multimeter and I'm not sure if that's right anyway.
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My 2010 Sante Fe started blowing the BCM 1 fuse.The vehicle will not even crank over. Its at the dealer for the 3rd time time this week. 1st time thought it was a faulty fuse, 2nd time replaced the drivers door lock actuator.
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Just noticed I have no more horn... I had car alarm issues for a while and the alarm would sound all day in the parking garage while I was at work (was keeping the car unlocked at home...) Finally fixed the hood pin.
Going back to the horn, the horn fuse was burned in the hood relay box, and when I replaced it and tried the horn again, it burned again... Where to start? Do I go for new relays, new horns, new wiring or all of the above...
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A few years back, we had the unfortunate luck of have the Crank Position Sensor fail in our 2004 Sante Fe. The sensor failed again 2 years later. Most recently, it broke down again, and acted the same as it did when the CPS went....upon deceleration and braking, it lost power and began to chug before it finally shut off. This time, the ECU 20 amp fuse blew, and the engine light came on.
It had been raining heavily the day prior, so we thought that the ECU or harness got wet. It sat for a few days, and when we started it with the new fuse, it ran just fine, with the exception of the engine light remaining on. Wife drove it to work tonight, and the fuse popped again. Given that the engine light is on, could the failure be due to an emissions control sensor or it's wiring shorting out?
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I have a 1996 camry and the break light don't come on non of them. I change the switch under the break pedal and it didn't work. I change the fuse but when I did so it spark and blew the fuse. Is there a reason for this? where should i go next with this issue.
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I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
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I was wanting a fuse digram for a 2011 f250 6.7. My right brake light is out and I don't have a way of knowing what fuses have to deal with the lights. If some one could tell the which ones or send me a diagram
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I'm having brake light issues with a 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara. The brake light fuse keeps blowing. The last time driven with me following the driver side brake light was dimmer than the passenger side. At one stop the driver side brake light pulsed brighter for a split second then went back to dim. A few stops later it became as bright as the passenger side and stayed that way for the rest of the trip. The driver put in a breaker fuse and it was in during the observed trip. I'm not sure of the brake light visual symptoms without the breaker fuse in other than that the fuse keeps blowing which prevents the vehicle from being shifted out of park. What the problem could be? Bad ground?
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Im currently installing a remote starter on my 07 camry and it wants me to tie into the "parking light" fuse or wire. It is a Bulldog system, on the website it describes it as "Black (-) wire" located at "BodyECU in vehicle fuse box 26 pin plug pin 23" The fuse box cover does not identify fuses by number and i do not see anything that looks to be parking light related.
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I've got a 2011 santer fe auto with a foot hand brake. i park the car on my drive which is on a slight incline, when i put it in reverse and then release the hand brake there is a crunching sound and the rear offside wheel locks. It eventually releases after a number of revolutions but it sounds very mechanical clunky.
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Wife came home and said that her brake peddle went to the floor once. Truck is in the garage with a large leak of brake fluid on the ground. I ordered a new MC but not sure this is the issue. There is fluid on only the right side of the booster, all associated brake hoses and lines going into the ABS module. The module also has lots of brake fluid all over it. Looks like there has been a leak for a while. Only one flare nut coming from the MC was some what loose (I gave it about a quarter turn and it's tight now.
Booster has some rust on the front of it near the center of the MC bolt locations. Before I put this new MC on I want to be sure this is the issue. Do the ABS modules tend to leak OUT when they are failing? I see that's a common issue with the Hyundai but I don't see anything about fluid leaks externally.
The truck has about 180k miles on it. I was thinking of cleaning everything up the best I can adding some fluid and running it to see where the leak is coming from...
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My son was hearing a bit of a squeaking on the passenger side. So I decided after some time to pull the front wheel. (most important brake). Well the pad wasn't moving on the outer guides (serviced it as required and lubed to get it moving). But the lower guide pin wouldn't move in/out. Needed to drift it out and it was very well rusted end to end. I put new pads on early as year I am sure and all was fine. I cleaned the pin on my wire wheel grinder. That lower pin had a collar near then end. Turns out its rubber, I thought it was a metal spring collar. Oh well the wire wheel did a number on it. I don't know the significant of that piece nor whether the pin is in the right place since the top one is different. I do these one at a time so its almost impossible I swapped them in the number of times they've been out.
I never seen so much tightening on any vehicle of pads and pins rusting in as on this vehicle. One has to wonder why. My vehicle also seems to have or what sound like a gear slap upon engaging in reverse or forward from front and back which is most notable after sitting and first engaged. Not every time but this is built in 2007 and there is a TSB for some washers. Hyundai Canada does NOT use the same TSB number they have their own. I talked to a dealer about it but he never indicated it would be the cause only its a different number. I am not impressed in this AWD drive power train. It needs a lot of TLC and the slap I hear is typically due to power train engagement play/slack being excessive most likely due to wear somewhere.. Even my rear sound off not a howl but noisy running which doesn't change with road surfaces so its not the tires. Maybe the AWD bearing or unit going. No of this should even remotely close to needed anything for at least another 100-150k at least.
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