Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Stalled While Driving / No Restart
Jan 19, 2016
I bought a used 2007 Santa Fe limited 3.3 last year. I'm currently at 98k miles. I replaced fuel Spenser's, added remote start and a curt hitch, did the head gasket service, did a maintenance to replace spark plugs and coolant.
Everything was ok ( although noticed with our single digit temps the engine was slow to start) then yesterday happened. Starting car in driveway and I got a check engine light. Tried restarting car and it stayed on. No problems. Drove about 15 miles and parked car. It sat for for three hours and then used it to go a few miles up the road ( engine light came on). No problems.
Had lunch, restarted car, light on, and Then oil can red light came on. Drove about 5 miles and while slowing down for a light I felt the power steering go, car stalled, and I couldn't restart. Never heard any whines or shrieks. Pushed car into a gas station and tow truck came. He tried to jump it ( it clicks when I tried to start it but it never turned over) and if his power supply was on and I tried to crank engine it made no sounds. Towed to a shop where mechanic tried same thing. Same result. They put car on rack and tried to manually crank engine. Couldn't budge it and told me engine seized. 4500 estimate to replace engine.
Took my own mechanic out to car ( night and freezing) and he did a few other checks and agreed that engine seized but thought it was weird I didn't hear the whine of the ball bearing getting shredded. Thinks a sensor blew, causing oil pump to fail, causing engine seize.
I'm now reading about multiple issues with crank shaft sensors and pulley separation and it seems like that is a possibility however I can't get my car to turn over at all. Granted it is freezing out here.
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I have a 97 Geo Metro two door that just stalled on me one day driving up a hill. It was low on fuel and so I thought it might have just ran out of fuel. I put more fuel in it but it would not start. I had it towed back home and disconnected the hose out of the fuel pump to see if any fuel would spray out. It did not. This lead me to conclude the fuel pump is bad. I replaced the fuel pump but this still did not fix the problem. I had an electrical guy looking at it run a bypass wire to the fuel pump and it still did not work. His conclusion was that the ECM is bad. Does this sound like a logical conclusion?
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Driving along, suddenly lost gears, engine revved a slight bit then lost power and stalled, the engine turns over but will not start but when it turns its in a lower key sound, the timing belt is in place but has recently been changed, would you think it has slipped? Seems a total lack of combustion in the top of the engine, would a slipped timing belt cause this?
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Wife called me this evening saying she's stuck at work. She was parked in a parking garage on the 3rd level, she started the car up, coming down the ramps of the garage and on the first floor at a stop sign, the vehicle stalled out on her. She went to restart it, but it will not turn over. I come out and tried to start it with no luck. I did notice on the positive side of the battery terminal there was a lot of corrosive discharge. I cleaned that all up, but still no luck. Everything has power, bright interior lights and headlights okay. I originally thought it was just cold or lean... But still won't kick over.
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My 2010 Santa Fe came with the GPS, backup camera, satellite bluetooth capable head unit. It started acting up after being parked for 4 months. I noticed a delay in the display response to a setting change. Change an FM station preset and it would take the head unit 20-30 secs to show that change.
Did everything suggested, reset unit several times nothing worked until I de-paired all bluetooth devices. Now it works great.
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My 2011 Santa Fe stalled while I was going 60 mph on a major freeway at 10:30 pm. It was very dangerous and scary, but I was able to pull off to the side of the road and get towed to safety. The "malfunction light" came on and the dealership said it had a code of PO638. They were aware of the problem and performed a software upgrade.
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When I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Rav4 that just had an oil change and air filter replacement a little over a week ago. Today I was driving when the oil light suddenly came on (for the first time ever) followed by the check engine light. The car would not accelerate with pressing the gas and slowly came to rest on the side of the road. I tried to restart it and it made some noise but didn't start. I did check the oil and it is showing that its full.
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I have a 2005 Pontiac Grand Am that won't start. It was working fine. Then one day, it half started and stalled and won't restart. It will crank over and there is fuel getting to the injectors. If I shoot in starter fluid, it will start for a second and die.
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1.5L with automatic and 90K miles. In December going 60 mph on the highway at steady speed the car stalled, would not restart, towed home, tried new fuel pump relay, made no difference, put old relay in and it started, ran great for 6 months and now after filling up the tank, I hit a bump and went around a corner and it stalled again, same scenario, towed home and it started the next day. Been running fine since. Ground on fuel pump/ bad gas? another relay in the fuel pump circuit?
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have 2002 Explorer with 4.6l that stalled at a stop light and upon restart, there was noticeable ticking and a sucking sound. The exhaust regularly sucks your hand against the pipe. Ticking is from all around the engine. Exhaust smells like rotten eggs.
Son was driving and we just got it back to house so I do not know much more than that. Where to start to diagnose.
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I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe Gls. I noticed that the car jerks while driving. It stumbles when you slow down. The vehicles feels like it lags power like something is holding it back. I noticed that the gas mileage is bad. What's wrong with it? Is it something fuel related?
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I have a huge problem!!! While I'm driving every week my 07 Santa Fe just "kicks out". First my touch screen system cuts off then the car will stop running. This morning every time I hit the brakes my check engine light would pop on then my touch screen and lights would "restart". As I was pulling into my neighborhood it completely cut out of me. Nothing worked, not even the power door locks. And I couldn't put it in park. This has never happened. Usually it just kicks out, restarts and then I can go. This has got to stop!!
In the past when this has happened I was able to pop the hood and wiggle the wire on the battery. Then my lights and everything turn back on and I can continue to go where I was going. Battery and connectors were replaced in June 2012
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I have 2007 Santa fe Limited and have problem with door locking while driving. All doors was locking automatically after acceleration before, but now all doors remains open no matter what speed and what distance I drive.
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I bought my 2007 Santa Fe with 112,000 miles in April. It ran fine until about a month ago. When I turned the key to aux, the radio and lights came on but when I tried to start it I lost all power. Turning the key off and back on had no effect, it acted like the battery was dead. I opened the hood and noticed the pos cable was loose on the terminal. As soon as I touched it I heard a click, the security light started blinking and it started fine.
A week later as I was driving on the highway the electricity started blinking in and out and the car would shutter as it lost and regained power, then eventually died completely but the radio was still on. I got to the shoulder and tried to turn it back on but even though the radio and lights worked, nothing happened when I tried to start it. I lodged a matchstick between the pos terminal and the cable to make sure the connection was tight and it started. Driving home the power would occasionally stutter when I hit a bump but it never died completely.
I used a battery and alternator tester that plugs into the cigarette lighter and both registered as fine. I've driven it to work, about 2 miles, several times since and the power sometimes cuts out at bumpy parts of the road and it has died completely twice while sitting still at a light. The clock doesn't reset when it dies so, knowing nothing about electrical systems, I would guess that the electricity isn't being entirely lost. Every time it dies the radio and lights still come on but I have to get out and jiggle the pos cable to get it to restart. While driving the battery and seat belt lights flash randomly. A friend told me to try removing the pos cable while it's running and that if it died, it was probably the alternator. Tried it and the engine died immediately. Don't know what this means since the alternator tested fine.
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I have a 2007 2.7-liter Santa Fe with 71,000 miles. I experience intermittent rough idle and rough low speed driving. It seems that in town driving will trigger these conditions. And when it's warmer outside that oppose to colder temperatures.
In most cases I can turn the car off, and after 2-5 minutes, start it right back up and the problem with go away.
The OBD codes are P0276 and P0306.
I have replaced the coil and injector on #6 cylinder.
The #6 spark plug is dry when the problem occurs.
I had the dealer update the ECM software
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santa fe 2009 - 77000KM - AWD
Few months ago , I notice that the steering getting heavy after driving like 15Kms. At the morning it's normal , and while driving also normal , Just heavy when the vehicle at low speed. I checked the Fluid , it was very dark , SO i changed it with new oil , but after like week , it be heavy all the times , also some noise sound at the power steering bump when move the steering .
I check at work shop, the advice me to change the fluid again, since they assumed that the fluid not suitable for the vehicle.
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For a few months now I've been having strange electric issues with my 2009 Santa Fe GL.
At first, we had the cruise light randomly come on (not actually engaging cruise, just indicating the system is on), the ESC light would be on, and the tachometer would drop to 0 while driving, although the engine was clearly running. We had the cruise control switch replaced and that appeared to have fixed the ESC and tachometer issue.
Unfortunately, the cruise light would still come on so the brake switch was replaced a few weeks back - that did not fix the cruise light issue. Now, over the weekend two very disturbing things started happening:
1) Cruise will now randomly turn off when engaged
2) The car thinks it's in manual transmission mode, even when it's not. When in drive (D), the car will no longer switch out of first gear. In order to switch gears, I must switch to manual drive mode and change gears by using (+).
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I own a 2010 AWD Santa Fe. It gets factory scheduled maintenance at the dealership. Since owning ( i bought it used from Dealer, it was driven by dealer) it has periodically revved while driving. Often at lower speeds while accelerating from a stop. The engine will rev and the car will act as if it is in neutral. Then, after a few seconds there will be a sharp jerk as the transmission(?) engages and the car lurches forward. My dealer told me it is normal. This does not seem normal.
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So my oil doesn't leak when it off it will only leak when it's at normal driving temperate it is coming from the cast piece that my oil pan (the plastic piece) is on... Where it connects to the actual motor... Any clue what it would be? BTW it is a 2011 Santa Fe
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