Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Squeaking On Passenger Side - Brake Pads?
Sep 8, 2016
My son was hearing a bit of a squeaking on the passenger side. So I decided after some time to pull the front wheel. (most important brake). Well the pad wasn't moving on the outer guides (serviced it as required and lubed to get it moving). But the lower guide pin wouldn't move in/out. Needed to drift it out and it was very well rusted end to end. I put new pads on early as year I am sure and all was fine. I cleaned the pin on my wire wheel grinder. That lower pin had a collar near then end. Turns out its rubber, I thought it was a metal spring collar. Oh well the wire wheel did a number on it. I don't know the significant of that piece nor whether the pin is in the right place since the top one is different. I do these one at a time so its almost impossible I swapped them in the number of times they've been out.
I never seen so much tightening on any vehicle of pads and pins rusting in as on this vehicle. One has to wonder why. My vehicle also seems to have or what sound like a gear slap upon engaging in reverse or forward from front and back which is most notable after sitting and first engaged. Not every time but this is built in 2007 and there is a TSB for some washers. Hyundai Canada does NOT use the same TSB number they have their own. I talked to a dealer about it but he never indicated it would be the cause only its a different number. I am not impressed in this AWD drive power train. It needs a lot of TLC and the slap I hear is typically due to power train engagement play/slack being excessive most likely due to wear somewhere.. Even my rear sound off not a howl but noisy running which doesn't change with road surfaces so its not the tires. Maybe the AWD bearing or unit going. No of this should even remotely close to needed anything for at least another 100-150k at least.
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So my brakes have been squeaking for the past week. Brought it in to the dealership. They said i need new front brake pads. I only have 22k miles on my 3is and that seems like a really look mileage for the breaks to be worn off. I dont track ny car and i pretty much drive slow. How long are your brake pads lasting? Is this normal for the 3is pads to wear off this fast?
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Got new Nissan brake pads out in by my local mechanic. I noticed they squeak a little going slowly in reverse. Why and what I can do?
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When I roll up or down the driver side glass, it sometimes gives squeaking sound. Checked with one Garage; said there is no quick fix for this.
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Recently (last three months really), I've been noticing an oscillating squeaking noise coming from the passenger side of the dashboard on my '07 LS460. I've troubleshot the problem and have it isolated to coming on only when the A/C is turned on (recirculated or outside air- doesn't matter). When the A/C is off, the sound goes away.
No other squeaking noises at all coming from anywhere else on the car.
I have a sneaking suspicion it's related to the tensioner belt connected to the Air Conditioner, but I'm honestly not sure at all.
Might this be a more relatively simple belt issue? A/C is running pretty much all the time when the car is on- wouldn't be surprised at all if we've simply worn the belt through.
I found this link outlining a similar problem, but again- I'm not entirely sure I want to go the route of the full tensioner assembly replacement if it's likely just a belt: [URL] ....
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I recently replaced all of my brake pads with yellow stuff and they seem to be squeaking a lot. I also noticed when I am driving and I stop and let off of the brakes they don't release immediately so could it be this is the cause of the squeaks or do these brake pads just squeak like crazy? I read somewhere it could possibly be the brake lines but I don't see how this could be the cause for so much squeaking.
My truck is a 2011 F 250 diesel crew cab....
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Just spent 12 hrs in our new 09 SF Ltd listening to a squeak/tick/click coming from driver's side A pillar area, front door jamb, or side window. I suspect - but am nowhere near sure - it's the windshield moving against gasket or molding. Had a similar issue in the Mazda3 I traded.
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Looking for a suspension diagram that can be shared for this model? I need to fix the squeaking noise from front passenger side and would like to have an overview pic of the suspension system.
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I bought my 2011 Santa Fe about 6 weeks ago and only have just over 1000km on the odometer. I have an appointment next week to have the dealer look at my car because I hear a lot of noises. First, I hear a constant squeaking sound in the driver's side window/door frame. I think I have this figured out - it's the weather stripping/seal on the door - perhaps the door isn't fitting tightly. I'm not too worried about that sound. I'm also hearing a rattling sound in the rear end, usually when I go over bumps. It sounds like something underneath the car is loose and is banging every time I hit a bump. It's not a loud rattling noise, but enough to be noticed for sure. Also, I've heard a rattling noise on the front passenger's side door somewhere but I can't seem to pinpoint where exactly. Again, it's like something is loose and rattles when I hit a bump. Should I be concerned? I'm a bit nervous because the last car I bought turned out to be a complete lemon and I bought the Santa Fe to rid myself of worry - I haven't been successful with that so far. I have gone through the interior to make sure nothing's loose and rolling around and making the noises, I've repositioned all the seat belt tensioners etc - nothing makes these noises go away.
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We had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. Today I briefly turned the heat on since the outdoor temp was cool. Later in the day, I resumed the A/C AUTO setting at 72 for BOTH sides of upper vent outlets. I soon noticed that the driver's side blows warm air and the passenger side blows cold air as it should. No amount of adjusting the temp control either up or down had any effect on the driver's side except for constant warm air. Now I know the passenger side can be adjusted separately but both sides were set for the same temp. Never had this happen before. Always before, if I wanted warm air, the warm air would come through the floor outlets. What's causing warm air to come out the top driver's side vents when it should be cold? Could a diverter door be stuck?
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I have a 2007 hyundai Santa Fe GLS. When the AC is on the drivers side blows hot air and the passenger side cold air. Both actuators are working driver side and passenger side. I watched them engage as I changed air flow and temp. What I should look at next? Also, the rear ac button light will not come on and it blows hot as well.
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Never seen this problem before. Thought I had a leak in the system and had to have it serviced. The AC did not seam to be blowing cold. It would take forever to cool off. Was trying to get as much air on me as possible so I decided to point the passenger side vents towards the drivers side to cool off in the mean time. I noticed the passenger side was cold. Air is blowing out of the drivers side but not cold like the passenger side.
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A few weeks ago my passenger side low-beam failed to come on during a short road trip. After a failed attempt to find a replacement at 9PM I had no choice but to continue on my way, about an hour later, as I was driving along, it suddenly came back on with no trouble since. I haven't touched any wires or fuses.
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My santa fe was pulling to the passenger side and i got it aligned again at shop but after that was done its still pulling to the right side. What could be a cause of that? it only has 17 000 km.
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So I was driving yesterday and my roof was still covered in snow. Came to a stop sign on a hill and all the snow from the roof decided to come off all at once onto my windshield. I turned the wipers on and only 1 wiper moved so I turned them off and then had to get out and clean all the snow off. Now my passenger side wiper arm doesn't move or moves randomly but not in sync with the other at all. If I lift the wiper arm up so the blade is in the air the arm moves no problem but the second I put the blade down it acts up again. It doesn't look bent or anything but it is loose and wobbly as in I can move the arm up and down where the drive side one seems pretty firm. How I can even take off the arm in the first place to look at it?
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My 2012 Santa fe crdi2.2 has 150000km. At the speed of 90km/H and faster there is a vibration coming from the back (passenger side I think).
There is no play on that wheel when it’s in the air, but it doesn’t turn smoothly. It turns smoothly until a point where there is obviously friction, once past that point it turns smoothly again for 3 quarters of the way until it reaches the same point…
The back wheel on the passenger’s side is the same story. Although the vibrations seem to come mainly from the driver’s side (at the back). Is this a wheel bearings problem or can it be something else?
I put a winter wheel at the back (driver’s side) to see if the problem was caused by the wheel. There is less vibration when driving, but it also starts at 90km/H. This winter tyre is higher, so probably it absorbs the vibrations better.
It's not a 4x4.
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I have been noticing some kind of a oil/water mix wet spot on the floor every where i park. It looks like some thing is leaking near rear passenger wheel, close to struts. I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe SE with 19K miles....
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The driver side window goes up/down faster than the passenger one. I believe it has always been like that. Do you think that is a feature? Why is that? Could that be a defect?
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I noticed the other day that my passenger side heated seat is partially not working. The seat back is heated, but not the seat bottom. The driver's seat works perfectly.
I did a test over a 10 minute time period with the car idling in the garage (door open) and the HVAC system off. I did not touch the seats during the test. I took all readings with a contact-less infrared thermometer. At the beginning of the test, each seat portion was at 14C (57F). At the end of 10 minutes, the Driver's seat bottom and back, and the passenger's back had heated up to 20-22C (68-72F), but the passenger seat bottom had cooled down to 10C (50F). This temperature was the ambient temperature outside with the garage door open.
I checked the fuse, which of course it would be alright as 3/4 of the system is working. I took a look under the defective seat, but with the amplifier there, I didnt have much room to maneuver my big hands. All of the wiring harnesses looked like they were in place.
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I've had a few problems lately with water leaking into the vehicle. The second row passenger side seatbelt is getting soaked, and water can be seen dripping out of the small slot in the wall panel that the seatbelt comes out of. Of course, it all makes its way down to the floor, which gets soaked.
Luckily, I've got third row seating, so the second row passenger side seat flips up and I can get access to the floor and soak up the water with towels.
The leaking only seems to occur when the vehicle is parked with the front pointing uphill (even on very minor grades). I've tried, unsuccessfully, to replicate the problem with a hose, but I only have a level area to test in, and don't have any service ramps to get the front elevated.
From reading various posts on here, and elsewhere, it seems that there are a few possibilities:
- The "dam" that surrounds the sunroof to collect water and send it to the drains is overflowing and water is getting into the wall of the vehicle.
- The sun roof drains are plugged, which may be contributing to the dam overflowing
- The sun roof drain tube has become disconnected inside the roof or wall
Can the rear drain tubes are routed down the "B" or "C" pillar? Depending where they go, I may be able to eliminate a disconnected tube as the problem. I've also read that there was a service bulletin related to increasing the height of the dam, but haven't determined yet if it applies to my vehicle.
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