Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Squeak On Left Rear Wheel
Jun 20, 2016
Need to identify what could this be? It used to come and go, now it's constantly here. I took it to the dealer but there was a 3 hour waiting time, so I might have to go another time. If you do know what is it, could I fix it myself? While driving there's no squeaking, but I can hear a metal on metal sound while on bad roads, the type of noise you would expect from a bad tie rod or something like that, on good roads it's fine. The noise you can hear on the video happens when I push the car side to side. [URL] .....
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I have a UK 2006 Mk2 CDX+ which I was driving last night - seemed ok, got to our driveway, turned the steering wheel fully left so I could manoeuvre the car into the driveway when I heard a loud "clunk" noise.
I thought I ran over a bottle or something so carried on reversing, when I got out I noticed the car was parked diagonally! Thought this is strange, I don't park like that and tried again, a bit better but still not parallel! I then noticed the steering wheel was hard to turn, a grinding like noise is heard when I turned so I decided I would need to take into the local in the morning.
Started the car today and drove out and got immediate sensation that steering was not connected to the wheels, the SW was off centre by miles and turning left/right was very sluggish. Lucky the garage is only down the road (but it's not Hyundai specialist) from me as I would not risk driving it down main roads in this condition. Guy at garage asked me to fully turn the SW left to right and we can see that the front of the car actually moved during the process. He is going to take it up on the lift to look underneath.
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I have a 2011 Sante Fe AWD 3.5L with 22K on it. The last few days I have been hearing this chirping noise coming from the left rear tire when I am stopped. When I am driving with windows closed or open I do not hear it, but when I pull into my driveway or a parking spot I hear it occasionally. Today, since I am looking out for it I get home, get out of the car and go to the left rear wheel well and sure enough it sounds like a chirping noise. Does not sound like it is mechanical and when I look under the car all seems OK. I put my ear right up to the top of the wheel near the well and I hear it. Sometimes it does not happen..
I suspect the Tire Pressure Monitoring System.....
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2007 Santa Fe about 90k miles - Automatic transmission ... Before suggesting stuck caliper / emergency brake hear me out:
Last year, I am driving around and my passenger side rear wheel is getting hot. Infrared thermometer shows up to 600 degF on the rotor after about 30 minute ride.
Took the wheel off, and I could not move it. Upon recommendation, I bought a new caliper, took the wheel off, took the old caliper off, but the wheel would still not move with the brakes off. I never installed the new caliper knowing it is not what is holding wheel.
Took it to the shop. They took off the rotor, found a groove inside, so said the e-brake shoe is getting stuck. I paid for the new rotor, took it from the shop and the problem was still there. Wheel getting hot. Took it back, and they suggested to buy e-brake hardware. I did, and reinstalled the e-brake assembly myself. The wheel was still getting hot, but only after I used the e-brake. So I took the wheel apart, released the brake an it seemed to 'fix' the problem. So I decided to not use the e-brake at all. Winter went by, I accidentally used the e-brake couple times, but it did not seem to make the wheel hot. So far so good.
Now is June and about 2 weeks ago I started to sense the wheel getting hot again. Now, this time this may have nothing to do with the previous time, but who knows. The temperatures are again up to 600 degF when driving about 45 mph for about 20 minutes.
I took the jacked up the car and tried to spin the wheel and the wheel spins freely. What the heck. I asked my daughter to apply brakes. The wheel can't be moved. When the brakes are released the wheel spins freely. No friction at all. Both inner and outer pads are thinner on this wheel then the opposite wheel, as all of them were replaced 6 months ago. So definitely higher friction. But why. Caliper nicely moved and releases. I took it off and tried it and it worked fine. Brakes nicely engage and release the rotor during the test when car was jacked up. I bought infrared camera to find source of heat, which is proving to be the pads. See pics below.
So what is going on? Why would the wheel free spin and jacked up showing no friction. Why would the brake nicely release the rotor when car jacked up but then cause big friction when car is running?
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My mother-in-law moved my car and put the emergency brake on (2010 Santa Fe) when she got out. When I got into drive home, I drove about 10miles with it engaged (for some reason the light didn't indicate it was on). When I got home I noticed a burnt rubber smell from the left rear tire. (no smoke though)
Our driveaway is an incline. After engaging/disengaging the e-brake, the light started coming back on again. If I put the car in neutral and release the regular brakes, it will quickly roll back. If I put the e-brake on in netural and disengage the regular brake, it still holds fine on the hill.
I know the damage can vary, but any test or check I can do to determine the amount of damage?
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I'm getting a pulsing. High-pitch squeak from what sounds like the left/front wheel when making left turns and occasionally driving straight at low speeds after a left turn, usually while NOT applying the brakes. In fact, applying the brakes firmly stops the sound until I release the pedal. After that, sometimes it comes back immediately and sometimes not.
Two weeks ago I replaced the R/F cv axle and the sway bar link. Harder job than it should have been because I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint bolt free.
This past weekend, I replaced both front rotors because I was certain that one was warped since I was getting a very loud pulsing squeal only when braking. I also have had a tendency to over torque the lug nuts which I had read can cause warped rotors. I now use a torque wrench for that.
I've made sure that the rotor shield isn't touching anything and checked the pads for damage and unusual wear. Pads are at about 75%.
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I have been noticing some kind of a oil/water mix wet spot on the floor every where i park. It looks like some thing is leaking near rear passenger wheel, close to struts. I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe SE with 19K miles....
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My wife just bought her first truck, a 2008 F150 about a month ago. We have been driving it around since then and love the truck. The only real problem that I have seemed to encounter on the truck is a squeak coming from the front left wheel area. I can hear it when I cut the steering wheel and when I hit a big bump/pothole in the road. My dad and I have looked into it and he thinks that it is probably the axle joint where it goes into the steering knuckle/spindle. If it is this axle joint, is there a way to service/grease it and go on, or will it just simply need a new axle shaft?
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A day before 3 yr service and MOT test on 7 seat 2011 Santa Fe, a noise from the rear offside wheel. Advised the garage to check and they discover the handbrake shoes were detaching from their mountings, not wearing out but detaching. This has apparently happened before causing someone's wheel to lock up and the vehicle recovered to the garage.
Strange that the same garage has seen it before so it must be happening elsewhere.
Cross pond Translations....
handbrake=parking brake
MOT = annual government safety test
Shoes = pads / linings
Rear offside = left right rear
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My mother in laws 2012 Santa Fe had a number of dash lights on (ABS, hill decent, stability control). I put my scanner on it and came up with fault code C1209 which showed up as a faulty right rear wheel speed sensor. I have replaced this module and then cleared the codes.
However, the dash lights still light up and the vehicle continues to throw the same code. I don't work on Hyundai's very often so I am at a bit of a loss.
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My wifes Passat wagon just got the 40k service and the dealer replaced the sway bar bushings in hopes of getting rid of some SQUEAKS that the car has made since we got it, it is lowered on h&r springs and bilstien shocks, however the sway bar bushings really didn't fix it, it seems to squeak when turning to the left and its definitely coming from the back.
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I can usually track these down, but this one is eluding me. It seems to be coming from the rear passenger side and really only bad when turning left or veering left at slow speeds.
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My son brought his 2007 Santa Fe over to troubleshoot a squeak upon braking. It took about an hour, but I isolated it to the braking switch. Took it out and attempted to lubricate the plunger. So for some dollars and a trip to the store and the squeak is gone. Just thought I would post this if others have an annoying squeak and don't know where to start.
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is it just a 337 thing? but, the rear wheel on the left is poked out farther than the wheel on the right. I didn't measure it just yet but it looks as it's almost a 5mm difference. I didn't realize it until today when an old friend was inspecting my car.
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I did lube my brakes 2 weeks ago (2nd I am doing it) and since then for the first couple of kms, the brakes are making a squeak noise. I think I put a little too much grease. Could it be the reason why its making noise ?
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For some months, I've heard squeaking noise from passenger side suspension. Sound like it's from shock & spring on bump road.
This video sound is very similar : Squeaking Noise, Front Driver Side - YouTube ...
I looked at my suspension. and found rubber bushing is broken. Driver's side bushing is normal.
Is this noise related to the broken bushing?
Is it easy to replace the rubber by myself?
A guy said ATP AT-205 reseal will fix this noise in Youtube video. Is it true?
How To Fix Squeaks In Your Car - YouTube ....
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The rear suspension on my 2013 F Sport AWD with 27,000 miles has started to squeak slightly. It doesn't do it all the time but is audible from within the car even with the stereo at low volume. When the road is smooth it's quiet but it'll squeak on even slightly uneven pavement.
Of course the F Sport has air suspension. I haven't experimented with the different ride settings or height adjustment yet but it is audible in Normal mode.
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Have a really bad squeak in the rear driver side it gets worst when I have a passenger I think it's the shock...
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It happens most often when the going over bumps and uneven roads, I tend not to hear when going over potholes (probably because the sound of the crash over potholes tend to overpower the squeaks.) It sounds like it's coming from the rear right-side.
So, it must be the suspension then, right? You would think so, except:
It sounds like it's coming from inside the car rather than outside. Since I have the windows all rolled up, the squeaks would have to be pretty loud for me to hear it, if it's coming from outside.
Did the bounce test, pushed it with most of my weight to hear if it makes any sound. It doesn't.
Car: 2007 Corolla.
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I am hearing a grinding noise when I turn the wheel to the left.. and when I straighten it again the noise goes away.. no noise at all when turning the wheel to the right. what could it be? 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe / 205,000 km's
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I've got a nasty groan and vibration on the steering wheel coming from my Steering Pump when I turn hard right or left. There seems like a little bit of oil around the pump and some traces of shiny metal (tiny sparkles) near the spline so I'm pretty sure the pump and pulley needs replacing.
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