Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Slight Squealing From Rear Tire Starts After Roughly 10 Minutes Of Driving
Sep 14, 2012
I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS AWD that has a rear driver side tire problem. It starts after roughly 10 minutes of driving as a slight squeal. It starts at around 20mph and will quit when I reach 40mph. The longer I drive, the louder it gets to a point where it is almost constant between 20-40mph. It stops when I apply the brakes or when I turn slightly to the left or right. Also, if I stop and turn the car off it takes 5-10 minutes for the squealing to start again. There is a smell of hot metal and sweet smell coming from the area.
I had the rear brakes and rotors replaced 12,000 miles ago, and them checked at my local Hyundai dealer when I first noticed the squeal and the mechanic said the brakes and rotors in the rear did not need replacing. What it could be?
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So I've had my 07 Santa Fe GLS for 3 years now, and have been very happy with it up until this one issue. I noticed on long drives(more than 20 mins) all of the sudden the left rear tire would start squealing...like running your finger around a crystal champagne flute. A constant singing, stopped only when I apply the brake, and continued when i released the brake accelerated. VERY loud, quite embarrassing. When I got out of the car the rim was so hot i couldn't touch it. I took it to a shop who told me the calipers were most likely seized and it should be covered under warranty, as it is not typically a "wear and tear part".
Of course the dealer tells me it's not the calipers, its actually the brake pad so worn it was metal against the rotor and causing it so squeal. Didn't really make sense to me since the issue went away when i applied the brake but whatever, just get it done. They replaced the pads and rotor and the issue seemed to be gone. I only drive 3 miles each way to work and back with that car, so i guess i just assumed it was fixed, however a few weeks ago i tool it on a long drive and lo-and-behold...guess what was back? And the rim is still white hot to the touch. I don't want to take it back to the dealer without a little more knowledge on the subject... I don't want to ruin anything by still driving it...
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07 That has 138K miles. The noise starts around 10 minutes of driving. Th engine sounds like a diesel engine. The noise has lasted 5 to 10 minutes. Then shut it off and it won't return til the next morning...Same thing. THIS DOES NOT SEEM TO OCCUR on start-up. It has to run for about 10 minutes (moving) or so. Changed out the water pump. The noise is coming from near or behind the water pump.
My mechanic is stumped but he pretty much thinks it's coming from behind the water pump. That leads me to believe it's the timing chains/tensioner's etc. But the time it starts up is throwing me off. When it is cold I think I can hear a little clacking that shuts off quickly after oil pressure gets going but it's not really the same sound that were are hearing when moving and the crazy sound starts and it is LOUD!
We were thinking it was the timing belt tensioner however, it is not behaving like it should.
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Our santa fe 2008 diesel randomly stalls. Most of the time the stall happens after at least 15mins of driving but I am not sure if its just a coincidence. It only happens when the car is stopped. When it happens, i put the car in park, turn off AC, then turn the car back on. It starts right up but is a bit rumbling like it will stall again. When i press the accelerator there is no response.
If I turn on the AC or turn the wheels, it dies. If i put it in drive or reverse it also dies. That happens around 3-5 times, then after that, everything is good again. Accelerator responds normally, car doesn't stall. Its driving me crazy! Whats worse is sometimes it doesn't occur for 1month! Then all of a sudden it stalls again. Bought the car 2nd hand and since january it died around 8-10 times.
I brought it to a reputable mechanic and they checked the fuel system. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel sensor. They even tried a different pump and sanction valve and it still didn't fix it. They kinda concluded that its not in the fuel system already, but they are at a loss. Its very hard to trigger since we don't know what really causes the stalling. All we know is that it only occurred when the car is stopped.
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A month I have heard this noise.
View My Video .....
I took this video while I shake rear seat area.
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I have a 2011 Sante Fe AWD 3.5L with 22K on it. The last few days I have been hearing this chirping noise coming from the left rear tire when I am stopped. When I am driving with windows closed or open I do not hear it, but when I pull into my driveway or a parking spot I hear it occasionally. Today, since I am looking out for it I get home, get out of the car and go to the left rear wheel well and sure enough it sounds like a chirping noise. Does not sound like it is mechanical and when I look under the car all seems OK. I put my ear right up to the top of the wheel near the well and I hear it. Sometimes it does not happen..
I suspect the Tire Pressure Monitoring System.....
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Today I had to replace spare tire and although i closed well the tailgate, lamp never turned off, as always (amber light on instrument cluster). I had to disconnect battery to avoid draining it. Can it really drain with only inbst cluster turned on permanently. Where is the switch of this light? Could not find it?
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My mother-in-law moved my car and put the emergency brake on (2010 Santa Fe) when she got out. When I got into drive home, I drove about 10miles with it engaged (for some reason the light didn't indicate it was on). When I got home I noticed a burnt rubber smell from the left rear tire. (no smoke though)
Our driveaway is an incline. After engaging/disengaging the e-brake, the light started coming back on again. If I put the car in neutral and release the regular brakes, it will quickly roll back. If I put the e-brake on in netural and disengage the regular brake, it still holds fine on the hill.
I know the damage can vary, but any test or check I can do to determine the amount of damage?
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Had very cold weather the past few weeks. Took my car out early in the morning last Thursday (after warming it up) and there was a loud squealing noise from the heater for about 2 minutes when I was driving five minutes from my driveway. Since then, I have this faint squealing noise that can be heard anytime that heater is on. It loud on the first two settings.
Took it to Toyota and they said it was normal due to the cold but from past cars I've owned, it looks like the blower motor could be on it's way out? Can this be true? Car has 11,000 miles on it.
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I have an '02 Santa Fe GLS V6 2WD. I am having a strange problem and do not know what it could be. When car is cold, it starts up and runs with no problems. After about 15-20 mins, there is a slight hesitation or studder. RPM's drop slightly and shutters. When i accel, engine studders, then runs fine. This only happens when at idle in drive. At highway speeds there is no problem. What can this be?
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This is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
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I have on '06 V6. This slight rattle/vibration only happens during the first 5 minutes of driving, and only starts AS am driving down a slight hill from our development. It doesn't seem mechanical. It just sounds like an interior piece is loose. It seems to be coming from the center console or passenger seat area. It doesn't happen everyday. Once I am on the highway, flat area or after a few minutes it's gone. I have shuffled everything around in the center storage area, glove compartment, seat belt - nothing.
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My tire pressure monitor is acting funky again in cold weather. For the past few days when the weather is around 30s i get flat tyre warning when i first start my car. then after drive for about 5 minutes, it goes away. Seems like once the tire warms up the warning disappeared.
I have standard 18" wheels... currently the tire reading from the MFI is 34 front 37 back. I remember i had them set in the summer for 37 front and 42 back. Should I put more air in? is that why?
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My TMPS as recently randomly tells me after about 5 minutes of driving that there is a flat tire. Stopping and checking the Inflation (warm type) shows the typical ~ +2 psi and no faults (or warnings) like long term -3psi or when I physically let the air out of the tire to test it. Physical test of the tire pressures confirms that they are all about ~+2psi after driving for 5-10 minutes.
No, there are no nail in the tires.
Yes, they pass the soap bubble test.
Yes, they hold the inflated pressures for weeks (both on TPMS cold and warm types) AND physical checks with TWO types of pressure gauges.
Yes, I have retrained several times after complete overnight cool down (~55F) and verification of physical pressure.
I though it my be RF interference with the TMPS (almost the same area after getting on the highway from 10 blocks of stop and go city streets) but it also randomly does it on city streets and sometimes after only 1 minute. No internal changes to the car electronics. No changes to mobile phone or location in car. Do these valve stems have batteries ? If the battery is low, is there an indicator of such ?
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Over the past couple months my car (187k miles on it) shuts off while I'm driving it, about once a week, sometimes less. It only seems to happen while driving 30 mph or less and starts back up after 5-10 min. I'm trying to sell it now and don't know how to explain what is going on with the car w/o putting someone off completely. I'm sure it's fixable, I just don't want to deal w/it anymore and need a larger vehicle.
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I'm not sure whats wrong here but i think its a plugged exhaust or clogged catalytic converter but whats happening is when I drive my car is lacking power huge, sometimes ill push on the gas and it will hardly move and start chugging but if i push down more it will go. When i go on on ramps to the highway as soon as i hit 70km it starts to chug then i have to push the pedal to the floor to get going,then after a while the car will start to shake after 5-10 minutes of driving and i have to let it cool down or it will keep shaking or just go back onto city roads and it doesnt shake as bad. Once im off the highway my car will begin to shake more at 20km and 60km i have no clue why!
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117,000+ mi. on my '07 Camry LE and it's started locking itself two to three minutes after I've just unlocked it with the keyless remote.
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My truck starts and runs fine cold. after 10 minutes or so of driving, it starts choking and stalls. If you try to start it, it will not. If you wait about 3 minutes, it is fine, starts , and drives ok, for about 3 minutes. I have replaced, plugs, fuel filter, battery, and a ignition module, as well as cleaned the opening of the throttle body
Ford has ordered a fuel pump, I am thinking it could be the
-Throttle position Sensor?
-MAF sensor?
-fuel pump?
It puts out code p0191 for low fuel pressure. Ford is scheduled to install new pump in am, but I don't want to spend a grand if it is just the TPS or MAf?
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I just bought 4 new tires and since then the Tire Sensor light comes on after I drive about 20 minutes. The place I bought the tires from has used their tool twice now and it is still happening. Could they have done something to have made this happen because I had no problem before they changed the tires...
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A week ago my brakes started squealing badly. This past weekend I pulled off the offending tire to take a look and sure enough the squeeler is riding on the rotor so it looks like I need to replace the brakes at 53,000km.
The rotors look good so I plan to only replace the front pads. While I am working on it, I am going to disassemble and preform the TSB on the rears as they have been neglected lately.
What pad material should I go for, metallic or ceramic? Ideally I would like something that has good performance, yet had a good life span. I occasionally pull a 2500lbs (dry weight) braked tent trailer, but that is not very often.
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I just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
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