Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Significant Buzz / Hum Coming From The Rear
Aug 3, 2013
I have 120K miles on my 07 Santa Fe Limited AWD. I have a significant buzz/hum coming from the rear. It varies in pitch with the speed of the vehicle, and the intensity seems to be less when when veering right. I'm guessing that's a bad bearing, which of course means a hub assembly. Prices seem to be all over the place, but I also see that some have a sensor and others do not. I'm assuming that's an ABS sensor.
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I have a 2.2 CRDI Manual - new 2010 model - bought from new approx 16 months ago. Live in UK. Quite a few problems, which is a shame as I love the car. Tonight's question is about the clutch. Became increasingly difficult/impossible to get into 1st when cold, and wasn't clearing so car would slightly jolt forwards. Dealer had it in and replaced ?Slave cylinder. No better. Went in yet again for a week. This time ?replaced Clutch ?wheel (staff not that communicative, or apologetic, and ps had to also replace both front drive shafts too as clicking ++). Now at least the car is easier to get into gear, but pedal rather sponge like and significant "judder" when setting off in 1st at lowish revs, and worse when reverses. Surely this can't be normal - it's a new car after all. Back to the dealer later in the week, but what do I do if I become unhappy with the dealer?
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Whenever I start my R32, I have some high pitch buzz noise coming from the rear, stay and never go away while even driving.
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I have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i hatchback with a automatic transmission. When I go between 55 and 65 I hear a buzz saw noise coming from the rear of the car. The noise only happens at those speeds,on hills, and flat ground, and in curves, and on straight always, but I never hear it at any other time. What it might be?
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Every time car is locked, a very loud buzz comes from the nearside front door. I have had the problem for over a year - the locking still works, but clearly something is wrong.
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I have a 2011 Sante Fe AWD 3.5L with 22K on it. The last few days I have been hearing this chirping noise coming from the left rear tire when I am stopped. When I am driving with windows closed or open I do not hear it, but when I pull into my driveway or a parking spot I hear it occasionally. Today, since I am looking out for it I get home, get out of the car and go to the left rear wheel well and sure enough it sounds like a chirping noise. Does not sound like it is mechanical and when I look under the car all seems OK. I put my ear right up to the top of the wheel near the well and I hear it. Sometimes it does not happen..
I suspect the Tire Pressure Monitoring System.....
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Our GTI developed its first buzz/rattle. It is a harmonic buzz coming from the sunglasses holder. If my wife's sunglasses are in there, no buzz. If you take the glasses out, it buzzes at around 2200 rpm-2700 rpm.
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Owned my 2009 for 6 months now. Ever since purchasing it, car will vibrate significantly at highway speeds when first driving it, then decrease by 90% after a few miles. At first, since I purchased in winter, thought it was cold flat spots on tires. Dealer changed tires 3 times, finally with a new set of Turanza OEM tires. Still does it.
Service manager said he drove new 460's and they all do the same thing for a few miles. I have seen other comments on internet from other owners who report the same phenomenon. Don't think it is the tires since we went through 3 sets and it still does it in the summer. What else could cause a vibration until the car is warmed up?
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I have the 3.5 LX AWD 2004 Santa Fe 102,000 miles purchased new. My power steering fluid reservoir was leaking from the top a lot. I read here that the screen in it could be clogged. I went to the garage the manager never heard of such a thing he said, and never heard of a PS reservoir having a screen (I gave him the TS. He said if I got the part and wanted it changed they would change it. I did that. It was done 2 weeks ago and now it all dry under there. But, now.. there is a low whine on the passenger side under the hood toward the back, but when I put the A/C on or the heater on defrost (Not when heater is on, only in defrost) there is a loud rumble/hum from the same area. Shut A/C or defroster it goes back to a low buzz/hum again.
I had the power steering pump replaced at the dealer about 2 years ago, its not old. The noise is NOT any louder when I crank the steering wheel all the way to either side. The fluid since replacing the Power steering fluid reservoir is staying at the same level, full, no leaking. When I put everything on, lights heat only (No defroster), radio, lights the noise doesn't get any louder either, I tested that. The other night after driving about a half hour to and from a place I went to u-turn in a parking lot and that whine was louder for a minute and while driving forward slowly out of the parking lot getting up to speed.
When I asked about the PS fluid reservoir, I had also, asked the repair shop manager his opinion, of that loud hum/rumble when I put the A/C on (At the time I thought it only happened with the A/C when the compress popped on). He listened said "That's the A/C compressor it's going and its going and cost more to replace it then its worth on your 2004." So, that's the background.
Questions: 1. Just wondering if you think it is the A/C compressor that is the loud noise when on, would the A/C compressor even go on when the defroster is on, the A/C is off, and the heat on and there for still make that loud rumble??? Or does that defroster fact kind of mean its not the A/C compressor??
2. What is your opinion of the low buzz/whine noise now (When heat/AC off)? I can't pin point it totally in park when listening, its very low (Except that one point where it was loud for a few minutes driving out of the parking lot.) (The motor sounds a bit louder in it in front too just side observation)
I almost worried if the low buzz was the Transmission as its fluid hasn't been changed in a few years (Because the mechanic said sometimes changing the fluid when its been a lot of miles between can actually cause problems to the transmission) It was done at the dealer around 45,000 miles and now my Santa Fe has 102,000 miles.
Could the power steering pump be going bad in only 2 years from what I've described? Or could the PS fluid reservoir having been spitting PS fluid from the top for a couple of weeks have caused damage to the PS pump now?
The fluid never got lower then full when it was coming out of the top and only when driving, I kept checking it. The mechanic who put the PS fluid reservoir in said he had no idea if it leaked from the top due to the screen as he felt the screen had only minor debris that was not blocking a lot of the screen since its a big screen (He didn't look too hard though), and it was possible even a small crack in the reservoir could cause that same fluid coming out at the top. He said it could be either he didn't notice a crack either.
Or are these two noises possibly not related even though possibly from the same area on the passenger side under hood.
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I have nothing selected but have to have temperature selected and whether dual is on or not it comes out the same AC button turns on a light but I don't have it on nor Auto. It is not pushed.
However, the air coming in is much cooler than the outside ambient air. Its in the low 20's C and my wife's car which is all manual is much warmer air as I would expect. The AC has to be running in the SF and no way to turn it off. Pressing the OFF button kills he fan etc. Which is not what I want. I do want cool outside air. Some how it appears cooling is taking place without any viable means of not running it.
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The car had its first service last month but since then the ESP light has come on permanently on three separate occasions and has to be reset by turning the ignition off. Suppose I will have to book it back in -I read elsewhere it could be cause by wheel alignment or faulty connection somewhere?
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When I lock my 15 Sonata everything seems (sounds) fine, however when I open there is a "loud" buzz from the rear passenger door...............
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Vehicle: 2010 Prius with Solar Roof.
Issue: There's a buzz coming from the ceiling approximately over the rear right seating area.
Solution: TBD.
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On more than one occasion, when I have gone in my garage at around 5 a.m., I hear a hum/buzz coming from the back end of my Prius. It has to come from the battery pack because the sound seems to come from under the back end of the car and is not as audible when I open the hatch.
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I recognize the odds of isolating this is low, but thought I'd try. I have been hearing a a very subtle (but noticeable) noise coming from within the dash area of my 2002 Passat (mostly near the glove box side, but also in the middle area). Noise occurs when the ignition is turned on - with or with out the engine running. It can be heard while driving, but is more noticeable when I turn the HVAC fan to off. The sound is random, and seems to be like a relay dithering, an intermittent buzzer or a fan noise (although no fan is on.) It sort of sounds like a cell phone vibrating randomly in the glove box.
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2007 Santa Fe about 90k miles - Automatic transmission ... Before suggesting stuck caliper / emergency brake hear me out:
Last year, I am driving around and my passenger side rear wheel is getting hot. Infrared thermometer shows up to 600 degF on the rotor after about 30 minute ride.
Took the wheel off, and I could not move it. Upon recommendation, I bought a new caliper, took the wheel off, took the old caliper off, but the wheel would still not move with the brakes off. I never installed the new caliper knowing it is not what is holding wheel.
Took it to the shop. They took off the rotor, found a groove inside, so said the e-brake shoe is getting stuck. I paid for the new rotor, took it from the shop and the problem was still there. Wheel getting hot. Took it back, and they suggested to buy e-brake hardware. I did, and reinstalled the e-brake assembly myself. The wheel was still getting hot, but only after I used the e-brake. So I took the wheel apart, released the brake an it seemed to 'fix' the problem. So I decided to not use the e-brake at all. Winter went by, I accidentally used the e-brake couple times, but it did not seem to make the wheel hot. So far so good.
Now is June and about 2 weeks ago I started to sense the wheel getting hot again. Now, this time this may have nothing to do with the previous time, but who knows. The temperatures are again up to 600 degF when driving about 45 mph for about 20 minutes.
I took the jacked up the car and tried to spin the wheel and the wheel spins freely. What the heck. I asked my daughter to apply brakes. The wheel can't be moved. When the brakes are released the wheel spins freely. No friction at all. Both inner and outer pads are thinner on this wheel then the opposite wheel, as all of them were replaced 6 months ago. So definitely higher friction. But why. Caliper nicely moved and releases. I took it off and tried it and it worked fine. Brakes nicely engage and release the rotor during the test when car was jacked up. I bought infrared camera to find source of heat, which is proving to be the pads. See pics below.
So what is going on? Why would the wheel free spin and jacked up showing no friction. Why would the brake nicely release the rotor when car jacked up but then cause big friction when car is running?
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O.K., I admit I get obsessive compulsive with my new cars for a few weeks after I buy them. Just got the '08 Limited and am trying to find where a few little noises are coming from. I've eliminated most now, but the 1 thing really bugging me is the seat belts. The rear belt part that you grab and then buckle into the seat latch rattles like crazy over bumps. It's just the piece hitting that plastic grommet in the middle of the belt. So, short of leaving the belts latched in place or (hubbys suggestion) turning the radio up, is there something to prevent them from making this racket? I almost never use the rear belts.
Compared to my 2004 I'm surprised I am bothered by it, but it is so quite it really stands out. That cheap plastic liner in the back also bugs me as the "wings" at the wheel wells rattle. I had a super heavy duty plastic liner and a really nice carpet mat in my 2004 that I really miss. Oh well, I guess they have to cut costs somewhere. Oh, almost had a near heart attack last night when I used my spare key and it got STUCK in the ignition! Took hubby 10 minutes to yank it out. I think it was a faulty key as they gave me 3 keys instead of 2. I think they knew it was bad, cut another and never discarded the bad one. Other than that no complaints so far and hope to stay as trouble free as my last one which never saw the inside of a repair shop in the 4 years I owned it.
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Vehicle: 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD ... Oil light coming on when braking hard.
Anyway, my problem was my oil light coming on at idle. Initially, it happened to my wife and she called me about it, and I attributed it to the cold weather and thick oil maybe not pumping properly when the vehicle was cold. After driving it myself, I realized this only seems to happen AFTER the vehicle has warmed up to operating temps. Took it to the dealership, they told me it was a bad oil pressure switch, put in a new one and off I went. (Note: oil was also changed at the dealership when they put in the new oil pressure switch)
Here I am two days later with the same problem. Just about to work this morning and sure enough, the oil light came on again while stopped at a stoplight.
Attached a picture below of my dash...the light flickers and comes on when the idle drops. I've never taken notice before, but what is the actual idle speed of the 3.5L? When the light is on, mine is about 500 rpm...
Also, for those of you with a keen eye, note the distance travelled (238 kms) on my current tank of fuel. Cold weather + all short trips within city limits does not make for a happy Santa Fe.
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I am trying to diagnose a buzz/squeak/rattle coming from the driver door. Once I press on the door, the noise goes away, so I would like to take the interior trim and leather off the of the door to do some more troubleshooting. How to remove the interior portion of these doors?
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe and the rear hatch wont open. When I pull on the handle it doesn't seam to click or engage with anything. I'm in a remote area and would like to try and fix this myself.
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As long as we are mentioning things, the trim/gasket around my rear doors on my 08 Santa Fe does not fit right. You can see it in the attached photo. The gasket is one piece, and there is no way to arrange the slack so that there is not a gap. Maybe someone used the wrong one at the factory, or is this a common/known problem? I'll ask about it the next time I'm in the dealer.
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