Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Shudder As Downshifted From 2nd To 1st When Slowing Down For A Stop Sign
Feb 27, 2013
We have a 2012 Santa Fe Limited V6 AWD. Currently it has 17,400 miles on it. It's my wife's daily driver and has been a great vehicle. Last week while she was coming out of Target and slowing down for a stop sign she felt a "shudder" as it downshifted from 2nd to 1st. Then as she was coming up to a stop light it did it again. So, she came home and told me about it.
On the highway coming home she said it was perfectly fine but stopping at the stop sign on the off ramp it did the shudder. And so I took it out for a test drive to go get the mail. I noticed that it would shudder on the 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts. On the up-shifts it was perfectly fine. Then, I noticed as I was rolling forward at about 1-2 mph waiting for someone to cross the street the car was rolling like one of it's wheels or axles was bent. Any faster than that and you can't feel it and again at highway speeds you can't feel it at all. It's glass smooth.
Soooo, we bring it in to the dealer and they say we bent the front drivers side axle shaft. WHAT!? How in the world would we have bent that? They said we probably hit a big pot hole but it's under warranty and that they will have to order the part and to bring it back the next week. We drive it for another week and the shudder is getting worse and at this point I'm pretty sure the trans is toast. But still, on the highway it's perfectly fine.
We bring it back in to have the axle shaft replaced and they say it will be about 2 hours. And so we go on our merry way trying to kill some time. About 1.5 hours later we get a call asking us to come back in because they need to get us a loaner.
Apparently as the tech was trying to spin the drive-shaft to line up the splines in the trans with the axle shaft he couldn't turn the drive shaft even though it was in neutral. There was a spot in the rotation of the transmission and drive-shaft where it would spin freely like it should and then it would hit that spot and was almost "un-turnable". They think that is what bent the axle shaft.
So, they are going to tear apart the transmission and transfer case to find out what the problem is but most likely going to have to end up replacing one of them anyway.
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So this morning on my way to work its pouring. Drive 30 min and while slowing down at the last stop sign the car stalls. Car wont start anymore. Not even trying to turnover. Damn TB must have snapped.
So I ended up pushing the car into my works parking lot. Luckily rain stopped by lunch time. I popped open the driver side TB cover just enough to see if the belt. The belt did not seem to have snapped. I was able to push down on it with some force. There was definitely tension on it. So I ask my buddy to try and start it. I could see the belt turning. Tried a second time to start and this time I would even hear the starter. all it would do is a clicking sound.
Is it possible the belt is really broken? I'm now thinking it might have jumped a tooth or something and now all my valves are bent. Car has 140k km. Previous owner said it was changed but could not provide any proof. I guess my question: is there anything else that would cause TB Failure symptoms. I mean the car stalled out. How could it not be the TB...
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I have really taken care of this 2011 SF Limited with the 3.5 V6 but it has always seemed to idle rough at a red light/stop sign while in drive. Is this common for all the 3.5 V6 engines? I run a fuel cleaner through it before every syn oil change and also use top tier gas. It drives nice but like I said, at a stop in drive it seems to run rough at around 500-550 rpm's.
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Will I wear out the transmission using the engine brake to slow down faster when coming to a stop at a stop sign or light, then shifting back into D when taking off? Should I just always leave it in D unless I am driving down a steep hill?
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So about 3 days ago I made a long 9 hour drive. No problems at all but I did allow my fuel to get a little lower then I normally do. About eighth a tank had 30 miles left on the digital read out. Stopped and filled up at loves where I always get my fuel. And off I went drove it down to 3/4 a tank and made it to my stopping point. Got in to go about 7 miles down the road and come to a stop sign and slowing down the truck died. I thought crap I forgot to turn off the auto start but never done that before. Stopped and stared truck as normal. Made it to my stopping point again. Headed back to the house and doing on average 55mph and truck surges like it wants to die but doesn't.
Rpms drop below 500 and it keeps going I get to same stop sign and slowing down again doing maybe 25ish and truck dies again as I have my foot on the break. Put in nut and started it right up and drive on home. Today went about same distance. Only this time I started it with key and was doing down other things while letting it run it just dies start it back up and take off get to where I was going and it surged or hiccuped so to say. Again started it once I was getting ready to leave and let it run for about 5 min and it died had the heater on as it was chilly out by the lake. Got in and restarted it and it was blowing cold air and had a diesel smell to it. Wife asked me if truck was going to blow up. Backed out of area and put in drive and made it 80' or so and truck died again doing about 10mph
Checked so far
Batteries checked and both are good
No mods done to it
New ICP sensor and pigtail
New water pump
New injectors 20k miles ago
Oil changed 1100 miles ago
New filters upper sad lower
2003 Ford F-250 King Ranch 6.0
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My wife and I have a 2002 Escape and basically love it, however, at my last oil change, at 26,000 miles, I told the service manager about a shudder I was getting from the transmission when it down-shifted from overdrive. He suggested a transmission fluid change since I was in the range that Ford recommends.
That totally corrected the problem for almost 4000 miles, however, the shudder is slowly starting to come back at 30000 miles.
Just yesterday, I took it to my Ford dealer for inspection, oil change and it's 30000 mile check up and I mentioned this problem to the service manager. He suggested that I make an appointment.
The problem is that right now, it is happening so infrequently, if they took it for a test drive, it might happen right away, or not at all, but I know it will get worse as time goes on.
Question. Should I wait until the problem gets worse, and second, what might be the cause?
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I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
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I have a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon. I got gas this am, and on my 30 minute drive to work all was fine until I got into traffic or came to a stop sign. While at the stop sign the car started to lurch forward or even seemed to be up and down. The idle was fine, completely constant. It was like the car was hopping or wanting to push forward. It did not happen in reverse or neutral and the car was fine while driving. What this could be?
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Ok here's the situation. 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD 170,000 miles.
I recently had to replace the front passenger side Drive axle. That was a piece of cake. However, since then the car has developed a shudder when it comes to stop (felt like the shudder on acceleration that was fixed by the dealer with a reflash). Suddenly it got so bad that it stalls when put into gear with the brake on. It feels like it is not coming out of converter lockup.
When I drained the fluid I replaced it with Valvoline Import multi-vehicle full synthetic (it says it is spiII). I latter added another half quart of Castrol transmax import multi-vehicle (also spIII). Did I screw up my trans? Will a flush work? Or do I just need to replace the trans and torque converter?
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I have an intermittent problem with my 2008 Santa Fe GLS (Canadian model). Sometimes, when I insert the key to start the car, the in-dash key symbol won't come up (while it usually does when everything is fine). When the problem occurs, I have all electrical power and the engine will crank over; The cranking is going very fast but shows no sign of ever turning over and the car will never start. It really looks as if the immobilizer does not recognize the key and so refuses to start the engine. So I have to remove the key, wait some time and try again. Usually, it can take 3-4 times (and up to 15 minutes!) before the key-symbol light comes up again in the dash, and then the engine will start as if nothing ever happened.
This problem occurs approximately once a week, but you never know when. I went to the dealer just for that problem but they had no clue and could not reproduce it, .... so they ended-up doing nothing to fix it. The car also has a remote starter that was installed at the dealer. It usually works fine. But the problem also occurred a few times with the remote starter trying to start the car by itself. I could hear the never ending cranking noise from the spinning starter, until the remote starter stopped for few seconds and tried again. I had to stop the remote starter manually.
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I have a 2007 automatic jeep compass that is stalling. heres the thing, it only stalls when i am idle at a red light/stop sign. I also noticed it only stalls when its in drive. if i switch the car to neutral while stopped/idle it will not stall. i also notice this happens more frequently in the rain.
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Ok so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
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We have a 2007 Santa Fe with 78,000 miles.
It's recently developed an issue where it has cut off on two different occasions within the past 2 weeks.
My wife said both times happened as she was slowing down and it felt like she was losing power. The vehicle cut off and then cranked right back up.
I've taken it to my personal mechanic as well as the dealership for diagnostic tests and neither were able to replicate the issue or find the problem.
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My 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe as reached 40 MPH. While driving, after slowing down then giving the car gas, it would make a very loud thud and I would be jolted forward. At times it sounded like the transmission was going to be left on the roadway. Is it common problem?
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For the most part, I'm pretty happy with my 2010 Santa Fe SE (V6 AWD Automatic).
When I'm coming up to a yield sign, or otherwise slowing down to say 5-10 miles an hour but not a complete stop, and then when I start to try to go again, there is a hesitation and then the vehicle kind of jerks as it starts. It's like it takes a half second to a second for the throttle to respond, and by then it revs higher than I expect. I don't know if it's the throttle delay or a delay downshifting before it starts, or a combination of the two.
I've also noticed that a half second or so delay when just sitting in park and quickly pressing the throttle and releasing. I can press the pedal to about 50% and release it before the RPMs respond at all. Then it'll rev up and back down as you'd expect, just not WHEN you'd expect.
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My Car has 86k miles on it. I went in last week to get the Torque Converter warrantied and replaced. It would shudder when slowing down back into first gear. After I got my car back it seemed to be worse than how it was, also the alignment was terribly off... I called the service manager, he told me to bring it in the following Wednesday... Over the weekend the car stalled 3 times.
I pulled codes P1603 (Engine Stall History) and P1605 (Rough Idle/Knock Control CPU) which were VERY generic. They also broke my Intake Air Box Clips and Latches. I dropped the car off for 2 days and got a free TRAC (Toyota Rent a Car). After picking up my car they said it stalled 2 more times... They told me they realigned the car and reset the ECU, but they should have reset the ECU after the Torque Converter Replacement. It also threw a P0302 too. It still shudders when slowing down till this day.
Is there some sort of number I can call to talk to Toyota Direct and get this situation solved? Dealer doesn't seem to care...
This really isn't the first time I've had trouble with this Dealer. I had an 04 Solara go in for a Dash Replacement and they scratched the Radio and put a hole into my tweeter. This 2012 Camry went in for an Airbag seat sensor recall and the hit it against another car. It left a terrible dent. I don't want to have a transmission failure prematurely...
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I have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
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Started hearing a weird humming noise (not the usual hyundai hum in the front passenger side) coming from the front when decelerating from approximately 20mph down to a stop or from a stop up to 20mph. Went to a shop and ruled out wheel bearings, brakes, rotation, alignment, etc. Noise stopped.
Couple weeks later noticed physical resistance and upon accelerating to about 40mph it felt like I had a flat tire. That bumping, vibrating, shuddering feeling. No flat tire. Physical resistance, not power. Came and went in severity depending on terrain and speed. Brought it to a 2nd shop because the first was closed. The guy found codes that indicated the anti-lock brake system had failed. Said it should be covered under warranty and I should go to dealer.
Dealer replaced a brake switch (which has been recalled and was replaced before) and an inhibitor switch. They assessed the brakes too.
Car drives fine for a week and suddenly the brakes are screeching and we can't reverse out of a parking spot like the car is stuck on a snow mound but isnt. Rock it- in and out of forward and reverse to get out. We test it putting it in reverse again and car slams to a stop. When the car was pulled up on the tow truck we noticed only the rear driver tire didn't spin-locked up.
Dealer says no computer codes and that they just had to "adjust" the brake switch they had replaced. Drove home fine. Next day and for these next few days-something is still wrong. Physical resistance, not power. Cracking/popping noises when braking.
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Last Saturday and today, I drove the car to run some errands. When hot, I turned it off for 5 to 10 minutes. Then it wouldn't start, the starter was cranking strong but the engine didn't start. I tried for 15 minutes with the same result.
Then, I waited for the engine to cool for an hour, it started fine. Both times the temperature outside was around -25 Celsius.
The dealer says he can't do anything if can't replicate the problem. The car is Santa Fe V6 FWD 2011 with 44 000 km.
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My car sometimes at a stop sign may randomly shut off. I try to turn the car back on and it cranks longer than usual. Then it will turn on and my epc light will turn on. And my rpms would stay at about 10k to 11k. What's going on here? Only CEL light I have on is maf sensor and i have a bad abs module.
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Strangest thing! Yesterday on my way home was coming up to a stop on this back county hwy. My car started to buck or hesitate of some kind as i stopped. It was bucking while I sat at the stop sign. Then I released the brake a little to roll forward, and it stopped.
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