Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Sensors In Gas Pedal Sending Bad Signal To Throttle Which Burned Out The Actuator
Feb 12, 2015
My wife's 07 Santa Fe goes into limp mode while she's on the freeway. Had it towed to a mechanic. They report codes were: 0101, 0102, 1295, 2105, 2106, 2173. They said the sensors in the gas pedal were sending bad signal to throttle which burned out the actuator. So they wanted to replace throttle body and gas pedal sensors. They wanted $895.
Didn't seem right, so towed it to dealer. They said the first mechs were just guessing. Only the throttle body needs replacing. They wanted $960 total.
I bought a used throttle body off another 07 SF with similar vin number to avoid needing the ecm to be reprogrammed. Cost $225.
Couldn't find procedure for replacement in my pdf shop manual. Seems like this should be simple though. Anything special I need to know? Am I on the right track?
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and am having a major problem. On 3 different occasions, the accelerator pedal has stuck open at full throttle. At first I dismissed the problem as a fluke or the floormat and pedal getting stuck together.
This week while on vacation with my family in Myrtle Beach, SC, I was pulling onto a 4 lane and had to "punch it" from a dead stop to get up to speed with the other vehicles. When I got up to the desired speed I let off of the accelerator pedal and to my dismay the vehicle kept going. I told my family to hold on and immediately hit the brake and safely pulled into the median while the vehicle was still surging. With my foot on the brake my wife put it in neutral and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up. I checked to see if the floormat and accelerator pedal was stuck together somehow and they were not touching. I do not know if it was me freeing up the pedal with my foot or if the vehicle some how on it's own finally reved back down to normal RPM's.
In essence my family and I were in a runaway vehicle and luckily the braking system was strong enough to safely stop us while at full throttle.
This was a scary experience for my wife and I and a horrifying experience for my children. It was the exact situation Toyota had a couple of years ago with the accelerator sticking on their Prius models.
Is the accelerator system a mechanical one with a throttle cable going to the throttle body or is everything computerized. I do not know if it is a mechanical or computer problem.
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I just got a check engine light today too! I wasn't sure if I should start a new thread but I found this one first so I'll see if I get any responses. Anyway, the diagnostic tool showed P2118: throttle actuator control.
I'm not sure myself if I should be worried especially since my wife and little one year old will be driving the SF long distance this week.
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I have searched and heard a lot about the brake actuator problems... but the noise I get is not a clicking noise.
My brakes have a noise when i press the brake all the way down and release it quickly... but its much more of a quick "scrubbing" noise... .almost a "creaking"... is this the brake actuator? or something else? I just recently got new pads and rotors at NTB... and the sound seems to have come after the install. i took it back in and they said they had no clue. Also , they did bleed the brakes when they installed new pads and rotors...
The noise really only happens when the car is in gear lunging. In park it happens one in 10 times as opposed to every time in gear.
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Just noticed I have no more horn... I had car alarm issues for a while and the alarm would sound all day in the parking garage while I was at work (was keeping the car unlocked at home...) Finally fixed the hood pin.
Going back to the horn, the horn fuse was burned in the hood relay box, and when I replaced it and tried the horn again, it burned again... Where to start? Do I go for new relays, new horns, new wiring or all of the above...
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I bought this truck used and the guy said it needed a new blend door actuator so I bought a new one off eBay I installed it, plugged the wire back in and turned on the key and it started smoking, it burned up. The wires have been cut before and have been butt connected back together. I notified the place I bought it from and they sent me back a new one but I'm scared it will do it again.
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My question is about a 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. Does this vehicle have a coolant temp sensor and sending unit or just a sensor?
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Security alarm not working after replacing front drivers side actuator. Paid a local Mechanic to replace actuator and now the security alarm when you press the door lock twice on the door remote is not arming. When I press the door lock on the remote once, the doors lock. When I press it a second time to enable the alarm and to hear the horn nothing happens at all. Light doesn't flash and horn doesn't sound.
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I have a new dog which I need to leave in the car occasionally (not when it is sunny etc). Is it possible to lock the santa fe 2010 without the sensors activated so the dog doesn't set the alarm off when moving around in the boot. I just tried locking the car using the key but it didn't do anything but I can unlock with the key!
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One night i get into my car its a 2002 mk4 golf 2.0 engine and i turn my key to start it and i turn the key all the way and i am getting no sound at all no clicking or even the engine trying to start. the key just turns all the way and thats it my stereo turns on and my interior lights turn on but my headlights dont turn on and my cluster gauges needles dont move at all . its like my ignition is not sending any signal to the engine or my cluster gauges. the cluster lights work but that it. when i turn the key to start i am getting nothing . What this could be?
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We just bought a 2013 Casita 17' camping trailer, which has Dexter electric brakes. The OEM brake controller in the Expy recognizes the trailer, and the electronic gain adjustment seems to work. But it does not actuate the brakes. I checked the terminal on the 7-wire connector, and the blue wire that feeds that terminal, and there is no current when we press the brake pedal. So the problem would appear to be with the Expy and not with the trailer.
I am not getting an error message on the Information Display, which the manual says I should if there is an interrupt or short. I checked the 30A fuse for the line and it looks OK, as does the fuse for the controller. So what's the problem?
The previous owner never used the electric brakes; he was actually unaware the trailer had them. The Casita is light enough that he could tow it with a Nissan Frontier V6 pickup. I was worried that the drums might be rusted and/or the brakes inoperative after not being used for three years, but I took a wheel off and adjusted one, and it would adjust to the point where I couldn't turn the drum; then I backed it off a little. Besides, there's no current at the terminal on the Expy!
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I just replaced the fuel sensors and know don't have power to the fuel pump. ( checked at the harness). I had to take the canister apart to get the sensor to go in and I had the rubber seal fall off the gas tank pressure sensor the first time I hooked it up. I did find that and put it back on. I checked the fuel pump fuse and switched out the fuel pump relay with the one for the horn and had no luck .
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So a couple days ago i replaced the fuel level sensors in my 07 gls 2.7 liter santa fe and all was well for 2 days. I had finally driven it enough that the codes cleared from active status and the car turned off the cel. However, during the same ignition cycle the engine started missing a bit and the cel came back on and started flashing at me. Codes found now are p2187 lean bank one and p2189 lean bank two, plus p0302 misfire detected cyl 2. I've tried the carb cleaner trick looking for a vacuum leak.. but no luck. Air intake boot is good vacuum lines look good etc. What might be going on? Did i get debris in the tank and glog an injector with it? Fuel pump itself appears to be operational. No bogging down or loss of power under heavy acceleration.
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2007 Santa Fe. Recently my turn signal has not been working. It seems to act finicky and not want to work every time I need it too. I noticed that this happened once every blue moon in the winter time when I purchased the vehicle new back in '07. However it has been occurring more frequently as of the past 3 days.
I have checked the fuse and it is fine. My hazard signals work when my turn signal works if that is any additional indication of what might be going on. What can be done to remedy the situation?
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My 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
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I've changed out all of my external lights for led's, including the turn signals. I had planned on replacing the turn signal relays with led comparable versions but have been unable to find the relays in the fuse boxes. The box that does the actual clicking under the dash seems like it could be it but it looks completely proprietary to this model, and not readily available in the compatible version.
I ended up installing resistors for now but that's caused other problems with my lights. Now when I turn my high beams on all 4 turn signals light up solid and I am unable to use them until I turn the highs off.
So, I would love to know if I do have a relay replacement option for my 2012 Santa Fe...
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All my turn and hazard signals work normally when engaged but when it snaps back into the off position the turn signal (sound only) keeps going rapidly. It goes on and off randomly. It's the sound in the dash only. What it is? I can replace it myself I just need to figure out what it is.
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I am having an issue with the turn signals on my 2010 Santa Fe. When changing lanes to the right and moving the turn signal lever up slightly, the turn signals activate normally. However, when releasing the lever, the signal lights stop flashing (as they should), but the flasher clicks at a rapid rate and won't stop. I have to jiggle the turn signal lever to get it to stop clicking. I have checked all lights and the bulbs are fine.
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Just recently purchased a 2004 Eddie Bauer Explorer w/ 110k. Took a Snap On scanner with me to look at it. ABS light was on and I also get a 4x4 high flashing light every 2-3 minutes. Blinks 8 times then goes away. Scanner showed the RF speed sensor isn't sending any mph signal back. Just reads 0. Will my problem be a new sensor or is the sensor getting a dirty signal trying to read dirty teeth on the hub? Also, will fixing this stop out with the blinking 4x4 light?
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My wife's '07 has that fast-blink thing going on with the left turn signal. The thing is, none of the bulbs are out. It does appear that the front ones are dimmer than the ones on the right (which work fine).
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I'm trying to figure out what has failed on my 2008 Santa Fe.
After stopping at a gas station today, my right turn signal came on and stayed on. By this I mean that the right turn arrow on the dash is illuminated and both the front and rear right turn signal bulbs are illuminated. They are all on steady, not flashing. Moving the turn signal stalk/switch does nothing. They all stay on when the car is turned off and the key removed. I have to disconnect the battery to get them to shut off. I tried pulling the turn signal, hazard and cluster fuses in the dash, but they had no effect. The switch for headlamps/park lights has no effect on the right side bulbs.
The left turn signal works normally.
Also, it may be related to having unplugged the battery a couple of times, but now the CD player shows "initializing" and I can't use it. The am/fm stereo works normally.
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