Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Security Alarm Not Working After Replacing Actuator
Dec 6, 2015
Security alarm not working after replacing front drivers side actuator. Paid a local Mechanic to replace actuator and now the security alarm when you press the door lock twice on the door remote is not arming. When I press the door lock on the remote once, the doors lock. When I press it a second time to enable the alarm and to hear the horn nothing happens at all. Light doesn't flash and horn doesn't sound.
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I left the lights on last night in our Santa Fe, and drained the battery.
Took the battery out and up to O'Reilly and they recharged it for me on their charger. When re-installing the battery the car alarm goes off as soon as I attach both battery cables. Turning the key in the ignition doesn't kill the alarm.
How do I reset the alarm and shut it up?
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I have a 2012 Santa Fe and the front map light fixture was where my issue started. I believe from what I read that the diode had gone bad because the map lights would work if the light button was pressed, but not if the door button was pressed. At that point, the only issue I had was the light now working when the door opened. So, I ordered a replacement part and tried to install it today. It was harder to get the old one out than last time, but it came out no worse for wear and I unplugged the old map light fixture. I plugged in the new one and it did not work at all. I checked the wire and it looked fine, the prongs and they were fine and tried it again... nothing.
Now, the back seat dome light and trunk dome light don't work either. (with the new map light plugged in or not) Old one back in and still nothing. Checked the manual for the fuse that is supposed to control those lights and it is fine. I got frustrated because it made no sense and gave up for the night. (no light is even plugged in where the map light goes for now) I come in the house and now every hour or two (when I lock the car) the alarm sounds for no reason. The alarm button won't shut it off either, I have to hit unlock and it stops. (3 times in the last 5 hours now) So, I have decided to leave it unlocked for now. So far, so good. BUT, I need to lock my car when I am out without the alarm sounding and I need my dome lights working. Everything else with / in the car seems to be normal.
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My wife's 07 Santa Fe goes into limp mode while she's on the freeway. Had it towed to a mechanic. They report codes were: 0101, 0102, 1295, 2105, 2106, 2173. They said the sensors in the gas pedal were sending bad signal to throttle which burned out the actuator. So they wanted to replace throttle body and gas pedal sensors. They wanted $895.
Didn't seem right, so towed it to dealer. They said the first mechs were just guessing. Only the throttle body needs replacing. They wanted $960 total.
I bought a used throttle body off another 07 SF with similar vin number to avoid needing the ecm to be reprogrammed. Cost $225.
Couldn't find procedure for replacement in my pdf shop manual. Seems like this should be simple though. Anything special I need to know? Am I on the right track?
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I just purchased this really nice high milage '07 Sonata and am working on some "minor" issues:
The Driver's Door lock actuator is not working (all others are fine using the interior lock/unlock switch and the key when used in the driver's door lock).
I have researched the issue on this site and want to confirm what appears to be a nasty replacement scenario.
1st, can a new actuator be found for less than $70.00+-?
2nd, are the acuators specific for each door, left and right doors, or all interchangeable? I ask because I might go for a used one.
3rd, is the complete dismantleling of the door and window actually necessary? Seems unbelievable especially for such a common problem. But of course the engineers never expected it to be a "common" failure.
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When mother purchased car she wasn't given an alarm fob. She just locks the doors. One day the "Security" light comes on and the car acts like there is a kill switch on it. Can't seem to locate the problem. She purchased it used in another state.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. Two nights in less than a week, my horn has went off in alarm mode. Is there another reason for this other than an attempted jimmying of the lock? I live in a decent neighborhood with lots of pole lighting. Someone told me the keyfob battery was dying but I don't have the fob.
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I have a 2007 F-150 FX2 and as of 8-10 months ago I started having the security alarm go off for no reason. I thought maybe I sat on the fob or something stupid but it is getting to be more often. The truck sat at the dealership for 2 days last week and nothing. They decided after lightly bumping the grille and it went off the sensitivity was too low so adjusted that up to a reasonable bump required. Well it went off last night at 1:30 AM, so I don't know what to do now. The service writer did say he had seen this and it was always a door sensor but having 4 doors which one??
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Recently, after using the key fob to gain entry, my 2008 Camry LE trunk latch refused to "catch" when closing the trunk lid. Can I replace the trunk latch (for non-keyless entry models) at $65 without having to fork out the $200 for the trunk latch/actuator combo piece for keyless entry models?
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The factory 'Security System' aka alarm, in my 2000 Honda Accord EX goes off randomly. When this happens the horn sounds and lights flash for several minutes at a time. This can happen several times in one day and then not happen again for days or weeks. The owner's manual says that the security system is activated when the doors are locked and will sound an alarm if a passenger door, trunk lid or hood are opened while the system is activated. The system is deactivated by using either a key or the remote transmitter to unlock the doors. My mechanic tried to disable the hood latch switch, but this caused the alarm to sound continuously. How to fix the problem or disable the security system?
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So far three times this week the factory alarm went off in the middle of the night. This happened before and the problem just went away. I have pulled the fuse for the horn so I can at least get some sleep.
How to troubleshoot this? Bringing it to the deal will be useless since I can't duplicate the problem.
This is an 08 Santa Fe limited edition.
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What is the easiest (DIY) way to replace the Vacuum Actuator (switch?) in a 1995 Chev Blazer with an Automatic Transmission, 4WD?
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I just replaced the fuel sensors and know don't have power to the fuel pump. ( checked at the harness). I had to take the canister apart to get the sensor to go in and I had the rubber seal fall off the gas tank pressure sensor the first time I hooked it up. I did find that and put it back on. I checked the fuel pump fuse and switched out the fuel pump relay with the one for the horn and had no luck .
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2012 Santa Fe SE and the battery went completely, utterly dead. Reason unknown but that's not the issue for now. The battery was purchased new.
Also, I had a Viper 4204 remote starter installed after I got the car, April 2014. I use the keyfob that came with the Viper to open the doors and start the car as needed.
Trying to get a jump start but as soon as I connect the cables the alarm goes off and the car won't start. Called the place where I had the remote start put in and he suggested two things. Use the original Hyundai keyfob and press the unlock button to stop the alarm. Or put the key in the ignition turned to the ON position BEFORE connecting the cable to the battery. Tried both, neither worked. Also tried just holding down the kill switch under the hood. But that didn't work either.
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So a couple days ago i replaced the fuel level sensors in my 07 gls 2.7 liter santa fe and all was well for 2 days. I had finally driven it enough that the codes cleared from active status and the car turned off the cel. However, during the same ignition cycle the engine started missing a bit and the cel came back on and started flashing at me. Codes found now are p2187 lean bank one and p2189 lean bank two, plus p0302 misfire detected cyl 2. I've tried the carb cleaner trick looking for a vacuum leak.. but no luck. Air intake boot is good vacuum lines look good etc. What might be going on? Did i get debris in the tank and glog an injector with it? Fuel pump itself appears to be operational. No bogging down or loss of power under heavy acceleration.
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Parking assist & sensors for back is working and show alert in screen but no sound alarm. I need to get more information about the car i just buy it....
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Codes indicate bad battery block 10. One of the cells in block 10 had lower voltage than any other cell in the battery. Ordered new cell and replaced it. The 12V battery was never disconnected, but the battery ECU was disconnected to allow it to be moved out of the way for bolt access.
After reassembling the battery with the replaced cell, the no-load voltage of the battery is 215V. The car powers up with the alarm indicators still on (as expected) but putting the car in drive and pressing the accelerator has no effect. I double checked my connections. The HV relays are not being energized. Do the codes need to be reset before the car will move?
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I'm having a problem with my GTI. Trying to use the security lock out but It's not working. I'm thinking the problem is my code starts with a 0 and i'm not sure how to put that digit in. How to put this number in?
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I'm finding that the rear door lock actuator for the first gen is quite easy to find, but I'm unable to find a part for the front which I'm in need of.
Looking for the part number available for the Front Door Lock Actuatorof a 2004 Santa Fe.
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I have a 99 EB Expedition 5.4 with EATC climate control. I replaced the heater core that had been leaking severely. When I got the dash back on I adjusted the controls with the engine running while watching the blend door actuator under the dash. it moved but not as much as I thought it should. So I drilled an "inspection" hole behind the glove box and into the plenum cover. I watched the blend door open and close when the hot/cold buttons were adjusted, but the movement was intermittent.
I'd checked the blend door for cracks prior to installing the heater core and found none. I left things alone for a day while I drove as normal. When I had time to work on it again, the actuator quit working. I figured it was damaged from the coolant leaking into the cab so I decided to replace it. It was indeed full of coolant. I bought a Dorman actuator (part #604-216) and plugged it into the wiring harness to test it before installing it. I adjusted the controls with the ignition in the "run" position and nothing happened. I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. I've searched for this problem, but the only threads I find are incomplete or deal with the "manual" controls. I checked all my fuses and they are all good.
My questions are:
Could I have bought the wrong actuator? Would the harness fit the "manual" actuator? The part number was identified as being for the main blend door for "automatic" controls. Is there a possibility the EATC head unit is bad? It still sends air to the panel, floor and defrost when adjusted.
How do I test the voltage at the connector? I just bought a multimeter but I'm not sure which wires in the harness deliver power to the actuator. I know there are a lot of people on this site who've gone through the heater core/blend door ordeal and have lived to tell about it. What I should do next.
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About a month ago my ac stopped pushing any air out, but it only lasted for a day or so...then it has worked fine for the last month.
This morning it stopped again. No obvious signs of anything wrong, what might be causing this? not enough freon? I do get air when I turn it to the button that shows air coming from outside when I am at fast speeds, but not on the recirculation button. (I don't know the technical names of these button modes)
I have the 2012 Santa Fe Limited, bought brand new 0 miles off the lot.
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