Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Rear Tire Squealing - Rim White Hot
Aug 8, 2011
So I've had my 07 Santa Fe GLS for 3 years now, and have been very happy with it up until this one issue. I noticed on long drives(more than 20 mins) all of the sudden the left rear tire would start squealing...like running your finger around a crystal champagne flute. A constant singing, stopped only when I apply the brake, and continued when i released the brake accelerated. VERY loud, quite embarrassing. When I got out of the car the rim was so hot i couldn't touch it. I took it to a shop who told me the calipers were most likely seized and it should be covered under warranty, as it is not typically a "wear and tear part".
Of course the dealer tells me it's not the calipers, its actually the brake pad so worn it was metal against the rotor and causing it so squeal. Didn't really make sense to me since the issue went away when i applied the brake but whatever, just get it done. They replaced the pads and rotor and the issue seemed to be gone. I only drive 3 miles each way to work and back with that car, so i guess i just assumed it was fixed, however a few weeks ago i tool it on a long drive and lo-and-behold...guess what was back? And the rim is still white hot to the touch. I don't want to take it back to the dealer without a little more knowledge on the subject... I don't want to ruin anything by still driving it...
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS AWD that has a rear driver side tire problem. It starts after roughly 10 minutes of driving as a slight squeal. It starts at around 20mph and will quit when I reach 40mph. The longer I drive, the louder it gets to a point where it is almost constant between 20-40mph. It stops when I apply the brakes or when I turn slightly to the left or right. Also, if I stop and turn the car off it takes 5-10 minutes for the squealing to start again. There is a smell of hot metal and sweet smell coming from the area.
I had the rear brakes and rotors replaced 12,000 miles ago, and them checked at my local Hyundai dealer when I first noticed the squeal and the mechanic said the brakes and rotors in the rear did not need replacing. What it could be?
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A month I have heard this noise.
View My Video .....
I took this video while I shake rear seat area.
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I have a 2011 Sante Fe AWD 3.5L with 22K on it. The last few days I have been hearing this chirping noise coming from the left rear tire when I am stopped. When I am driving with windows closed or open I do not hear it, but when I pull into my driveway or a parking spot I hear it occasionally. Today, since I am looking out for it I get home, get out of the car and go to the left rear wheel well and sure enough it sounds like a chirping noise. Does not sound like it is mechanical and when I look under the car all seems OK. I put my ear right up to the top of the wheel near the well and I hear it. Sometimes it does not happen..
I suspect the Tire Pressure Monitoring System.....
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Today I had to replace spare tire and although i closed well the tailgate, lamp never turned off, as always (amber light on instrument cluster). I had to disconnect battery to avoid draining it. Can it really drain with only inbst cluster turned on permanently. Where is the switch of this light? Could not find it?
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My mother-in-law moved my car and put the emergency brake on (2010 Santa Fe) when she got out. When I got into drive home, I drove about 10miles with it engaged (for some reason the light didn't indicate it was on). When I got home I noticed a burnt rubber smell from the left rear tire. (no smoke though)
Our driveaway is an incline. After engaging/disengaging the e-brake, the light started coming back on again. If I put the car in neutral and release the regular brakes, it will quickly roll back. If I put the e-brake on in netural and disengage the regular brake, it still holds fine on the hill.
I know the damage can vary, but any test or check I can do to determine the amount of damage?
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A week ago my brakes started squealing badly. This past weekend I pulled off the offending tire to take a look and sure enough the squeeler is riding on the rotor so it looks like I need to replace the brakes at 53,000km.
The rotors look good so I plan to only replace the front pads. While I am working on it, I am going to disassemble and preform the TSB on the rears as they have been neglected lately.
What pad material should I go for, metallic or ceramic? Ideally I would like something that has good performance, yet had a good life span. I occasionally pull a 2500lbs (dry weight) braked tent trailer, but that is not very often.
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I have a santa fe from the year 2008 and recently i had a trip where i would get tons of white smoke every time the car was at idle at the stop light. upon inspection, i saw that the coolant level was below the low line so i had it topped up and the problem disappeared. Everything was fine until today when the problem occurred so i checked the coolant level on the side of the road but the coolant level was fine and still is upon inspection when the car was cooled off. After i stopped to check the coolant level and restarting the car, the smoke was gone and did not appear again. I checked the internet for solutions and some suggest blown head gasket but many of the symptoms do not make sense in my case since the engine never overheats and the coolant level hasn't gone down in the past week.
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My wife has a 2010 Santa Fe with AWD and 40,000 miles on it, and my daughter has a 2008 AWD with 38,000. I don’t drive my wife’s car much but after taking it on a trip I noticed that the front wheels/tires seemed louder than normal, exactly like a bad wheel bearing or when you are running snow tires. I had the tires balanced and inspected and took the car to the dealer sure that there was a front wheel bearing going out but they said it was fine. A week later I was driving my daughter’s 2008, same noise. Tires on both cars are fairly new and don’t appear to have any problems. So, is this common to these cars and considered normal?
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I have a 2012 Santa Fe that I took in today for the first 3,000 mile oil change. Everyone that rides with me say they hear a popping noise coming from the front passenger tire? I asked them to check it out at the dealership and they say all is fine. Some one said sounded like the strut top plates were loose.
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I just bought a used 2007 Santa Fe Limited. It has 78,000 miles on it. I have gone bumper to bumper looking for problems and am pretty happy about the condition. HOWEVER, I have noticed a shuddering/bobbling, fairly faint, when going over slightly rough roads a low speeds. The tires are shot. But they are all exactly the same ... meaning the same wear more so on the outside. I believe they were rotated properly, but something is wearing the outside prematurely. Is the shuddering/bobbling the culprit? What is the most common issue for the Shuddering/bobbling at low speeds on slightly rough roads?
Next, I want a quiet ride. Handling is not a concern. Should I go with a slightly wider tire or slightly taller tire? Lastly, I need new mats. I want them to be the same as what came with the car. Do I have to go to the dealer or are there some vendors with better deals on factory mats.
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I'm driving a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe with 83,000 miles on it.
Had it in the shop (dealer) a couple of weeks back for some work on the transmission. While there, I had the dealer perform the work for Recall 090 (corrosion of rear trailing arm). Since that time, there has been a clicking noise coming from what I believe to be the right rear wheel (it is definitely coming from the right [passenger] side). The noise sounds like metal rubbing up against metal, for lack of a better description. The noise is directly correlated to wheel rotation... the faster I drive the vehicle, the more frequently it occurs; the slower I drive, the less frequently it occurs.
The noise is very noticeable, and I am certain that it did not exist prior to my latest visit to the dealer. I am considering taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic this time, as the dealer repeatedly tells me that they aren't to blame, or I end up leaving the dealership with more problems than I arrived with.
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I got a few clunk noise from front left tire area. I think it happens when I turn my steering wheel to left almost max.
And then, turning back to straight(to right). then, "Clunk"!
Today I got the clunk when I made U-turn on a street. A month ago, I heard it when I parked with fully turned front tires.
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I recently got a set of staggered IS 350 wheels, and while I realize it's not ideal , my father wants to know if they will fit his 2012 ES350 ? The front tires I'm having put on are 225 / 45 / 18, but the tears are still good and are 255 / 40 / 18. Will the 255 fit in the back without rubbing issues.
So, I just went ahead and put the wheel on. The stats are 18x8.5, +45 offset, and 255/40/18.
Initially the tire rubbed while driving, the wheel was able to rotate, but not without the rotating rub noise against the strut. So then I put on a 5mm spacer I had and it was perfect.
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I have a 2007 Vibe. My niece strattled a dead deer on the highway and I have a rattle noise coming from the rear right tire. Only think is that it's not constant? 9 out of 10 times it's there when I start the car but as drive for 30 or 40 minutes, or longer, it goes away? I had my Uncle look under the car and all he said was that he saw deer hair.
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So on my wives Prius which is an 2007 the rear tires are wearing more greatly on the insides that the outsides and they are wearing evenly on both the rear left and rear right inside. So not one is more worn than the other..
The tires are heavily worn, with that said the car rides extremely bumpy to the point the entire car is shaking on the freeway at 75 mph or higher. So much so it induces motion sickness which is odd for me. So also besides the alignment question, what else could be causing the insane amount of bumpiness? I balanced and rotated them yesterday but that didn't solve the issue.
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I have a 2014 Sonata GLS with only 4200 km on it, purchased new in August 2014. The car has been flawless...until yesterday. I took the car for its first oil/filter change and asked them to check tire pressure at the same time...this was at a Hyundai dealership, btw.
I left the dealership and immediately noticed that the car was swaying and more wobbly than normal (i can make it bounce from side to side by moving my body in the driver's seat), and when I make a right turn there is an awful squeal from the right-front tire.
I've done some online research today but couldn't get back to the dealer before they closed to look at it. Most posts I've read point to under inflated tires, but there are others that say wheel bearing and more.
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2007 Santa Fe about 90k miles - Automatic transmission ... Before suggesting stuck caliper / emergency brake hear me out:
Last year, I am driving around and my passenger side rear wheel is getting hot. Infrared thermometer shows up to 600 degF on the rotor after about 30 minute ride.
Took the wheel off, and I could not move it. Upon recommendation, I bought a new caliper, took the wheel off, took the old caliper off, but the wheel would still not move with the brakes off. I never installed the new caliper knowing it is not what is holding wheel.
Took it to the shop. They took off the rotor, found a groove inside, so said the e-brake shoe is getting stuck. I paid for the new rotor, took it from the shop and the problem was still there. Wheel getting hot. Took it back, and they suggested to buy e-brake hardware. I did, and reinstalled the e-brake assembly myself. The wheel was still getting hot, but only after I used the e-brake. So I took the wheel apart, released the brake an it seemed to 'fix' the problem. So I decided to not use the e-brake at all. Winter went by, I accidentally used the e-brake couple times, but it did not seem to make the wheel hot. So far so good.
Now is June and about 2 weeks ago I started to sense the wheel getting hot again. Now, this time this may have nothing to do with the previous time, but who knows. The temperatures are again up to 600 degF when driving about 45 mph for about 20 minutes.
I took the jacked up the car and tried to spin the wheel and the wheel spins freely. What the heck. I asked my daughter to apply brakes. The wheel can't be moved. When the brakes are released the wheel spins freely. No friction at all. Both inner and outer pads are thinner on this wheel then the opposite wheel, as all of them were replaced 6 months ago. So definitely higher friction. But why. Caliper nicely moved and releases. I took it off and tried it and it worked fine. Brakes nicely engage and release the rotor during the test when car was jacked up. I bought infrared camera to find source of heat, which is proving to be the pads. See pics below.
So what is going on? Why would the wheel free spin and jacked up showing no friction. Why would the brake nicely release the rotor when car jacked up but then cause big friction when car is running?
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Well, I bought a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 pickkup. It has 121,000 miles. The guy wanted $2800, but I talked him down to $2300. I think that will work out well. One question, though. One of the tires has a white ring going around the sidewall. I have heard of whitewall tires, but this is not an attractive white wall. The edges of the white are all jagged and peeling. What causes this? Was this tire originally black and the black peeled away exposing a psuedo-whitewall? Any time I've scraped a tire, there was just more black underneath. I don't really know what I'm looking at. Is this tire safe? You can see a pic here: [URL] ....
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe and the rear hatch wont open. When I pull on the handle it doesn't seam to click or engage with anything. I'm in a remote area and would like to try and fix this myself.
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As long as we are mentioning things, the trim/gasket around my rear doors on my 08 Santa Fe does not fit right. You can see it in the attached photo. The gasket is one piece, and there is no way to arrange the slack so that there is not a gap. Maybe someone used the wrong one at the factory, or is this a common/known problem? I'll ask about it the next time I'm in the dealer.
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