I have a 2011 Santa Fe - I have noticed it is quite a rough ride. I guess I am used to the suspension in my Passat, but I still find it is not as smooth as it should be. I thought maybe giving it a bit of time would work, but so far at 25,000km it is still the same. Find it's a bit of a rough ride? Or should I look into it?
View 39 RepliesI have a 2010 corolla S with around 15K miles. I'm not sure if this is really an issue but it has been bugging me for sometime. I have noticed that sometimes the engine / ride feels really smooth and feels as if the car just sails along. But most of the days the ride feels a little bit rough/grainy... I drive mostly in the city (around 80%) and live close to work (3miles one way). I do oil changes every 5 months... Would some kind of tuning be required? Or is this just normal?
View 7 RepliesI used to wonder if my engine was running when stopped at a light and marvel at the smooth ride of my 2008 LS460L.
Lately I have been feeling a rough idle when stopped and the ride feels jittery on smooth roads.The odd thing is the car idles smoother with the air conditioner running or when it is off. It is very noticeable when off and seems to be apparent when the car is fully warmed up .
The jittery road thing occurs both when the air is on and off. I bought the car CPO and it had the valve recall work performed (saw that was one possible cause).
I recently bought a 2012 Camry LE with 34,000 miles that used to be a rental. At the time of the test drive the car ride seemed perfect. Later, I noticed it doesn't ride nicely on large bumps at low speed. So I bought four new tires which improved the ride. But it's still not as smooth as a new one on the bumps. There is a lot of shock going into a car which gives it a cheap feel.
What would make my car ride the bumps better?
Put in new shocks?
Would I have to place front and rear?
And can I leave the springs?
When I start the car for the first time of the day, the shifting is not as smooth as when the engine is hot. Is this normal ? When I checked the trans fluid, it was between 25 and 75...(the second little mark on the dipstick) but I just drove about 5min so maybe the engine wasn't warm enough..
View 6 RepliesThe GX did not ride as smooth and hit hard on dips and bumps like a speed bump.
Air bags fill properly. Shock are damp around pistons, but definitely not blown out. My vehicle has 188,000 miles on it.
Dealer looked at and drove with me two times: Report: All working proper. The recommendation to put the air level control to high and then back to normal did improve the condition but not like when new.
Vehicle rode better with a load in the back, and or people in back seats. So I read where someone had a theory that the height sensors might degrade over time, and the normal position might have drifted out of range.
I adjusted the height sensors to ride a little higher (as I could see on the rear axle the rubber bump stops had been making contact a lot- it was all clean and shiny).
Raised the rear about 1/2" on each side. Did a lot of measurements from ground to bottom of wheel opening (not the best reference point, but at least I had one).
Result: Raising the ride height, thus increasing the travel to the bump stops totally brought back the good ride it had when newer. I also believe the increased height means the air bags have more pressure, thus more spring rate. So it takes more force to compress and travel to the bump stops.
I have been experience some rough ride, and i am always in "comfort" mode for the air suspension. I have been changing the suspension over to "sport" for a mile or two then back into "comfort" and that seems to fix it for a day or so and then it goes rougher again.
I have also noticed when i am riding with the windows down that every time i hit a bump not only is there a jarring jolt, but also a squeak almost like a shriek that comes from presumably the suspension in the front ?
I would like to know if this is a sign of failing air bags, a bad compressor, bad sensors or even if the control arms are in question at this point. . .?
I am getting a clunk from the front passenger side when going over bumps or when the road is not smooth.
It seems to happen at lower speed, so when I am on the highway, I cannot hear anything. The sway bar link seems to be the common thing, but when the car was lifted, there was oil on one of the struts.
2008 3.3 Santa Fe ... The car has 115k KM. Is this a normal thing for it to fail at this point? Last time I had clunks in the suspension it was a sway bar link that was repaired at the dealer under warranty. I can't remember if this is the same sound or not.
2007 GMC Sierra 1500 (MAX) ... This had happened before 3x, but was about to turn truck off and wait 10 second and turn back on. Then truck would run fine for months. I found this on my truck manual.
My truck is riding differently. Here's the story - I put new tires on Friday, an hour later, my truck started to ride rough. The light on dashboard is; Check engine, Engine power lost (truck would not get up when this was shown on dash. This error has not come up again), stibilitrac check. Truck's driving performance; Idle sputters (like RPM rising, but they are not, it’s just the engine shaking), once driving when it shifts hard at 3000 RPMs (only 2nd gear). I took my truck to Advance, and this was the error code I received; #6 Cylinder Misfiring and Actuator module.
I changed all spark plugs and number #6 was very dirty compared to the other and smelt very much so like gas. I have not driven this truck only cracked and it stayed in park. I had a person look at it, and he said that the #6 cylinder was the only problem he could find when he hooked up his code thingy. Now he played with everything and took out the #6 spark plug (this is now Tues) and said that it didn't smell of gas like it should have. At the end. he stated that we first should change the Injector for #6. and if that did not correct the problem, then he would recommend the lifters to be replaced. I asked how confident he was about "his" diagnosis. and he stated.... I am not a GM mechanic... wow. now I am confused as to what I should really do! BTW, he never cleared the error codes...
basically it runs rough and makes noise when AC is on. While it may not be perfect when off, it certainly is quieter. Check engine light just came on.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford 150 with about 120,000 miles on it... For almost 9 months now I've had a really rough idle and I can't seem to get it to smooth out. I've tried new plugs, tune up, new fuel filter, higher octane gas, fuel injector cleaner, octane booster, cleaned my mass air flow sensor and nothing works... I've checked the trucks ECM for any codes but it comes up clean every time...
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 lesabre cold start rough idle but smooths out . Warm no start. Trouble codes P0171, P0300, P0336. Had plennum replaced 2 years ago but I'm seeing coolant around the base of the plennum so I'm going to have to do that again but I don't think that has anything to do with the warm no start.
View 14 RepliesHaving problem with 2016 Accent Sport (or other model) idling rough after smooth driving for about 20 or so minutes? It has started doing this about a month after being purchased. About 700 miles or so on it) When in stick mode it smooths out and purrs like a kitten, but back in automatic mode it idles rough, with Active Eco on and off. I have an appointment to take it in to the dealership 5/7, but I wanted to see what the cause was.
View 7 RepliesMy 2004 Lincoln navigator is very rough at idle but runs smooth when I give it gas. Someone said my VCT may be stuck or bad. I looked at Youtube videos of VCT replacement but in all the videos the VCT's are up front in the valve covers. On the Navigator they aren't there. Where the heck they might be located?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Sante Fe, it has about 96000KM on it. It is a 3.3 engine AWD.
I find that when I accelerate the thing kind of feels rough. It is very subtle. Like you can almost miss it if I wasn't being so picky. But I can definitely feel something there. What this would be.
I have a 2007 SF 2.7L V6 with 55000km.
Recently we have noticed that from a cold start the engine idles roughly few a short time and especially bad if put into gear only moments after starting.
Do we need to let it warm up for longer?
1994 Buick LeSabre Custom 3.8 Litre V6 with 103277 miles.
It runs smooth when idling in Park, rough when I put it in gear when I am stopped (either drive or reverse) has hesitation when accelerating, it smooths out again when driving then it starts to drive rough at about 55 MPH.
Mechanic told me it was the plug wires. I replaced those and the plugs. This fixed the hesitation when accelerating issue, but the other issues remain (now even seem a little worse) I thought the plugs and/or wires were bad, so I rechecked the gauge on the plugs and traced to make sure I had the wires hooked up right. Everything seems in order.
I have added fuel injector cleaner, and changed the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. (For a tune up since it has admittedly been a while)....
Recently bought a 96 4 cylinder 5speed 2wd ranger. 200xxx miles on it and its former owner had a young guy change spark plugs . Truck ran fine before, but after is when the rough running showed up.
A quick check of the plug wires and there locations looked correct and also tested the wires for spark with a timing light attached to them, checked shows all are firing.
Seems to smooth out a bit when rpm's are raised up, but still acts like not running smooth.
I swapped out plugs. Looks like they haven't been changed in a long time .Some of the straps are burnt and are shorter than they should be, but still runs rough, very little improvement .
Check vacuum lines for leaks/breaks and all looked good. removed line off brake booster and plugged, didn't matter.
It doesn't throw and check engine lights. It does smooth out some as the rpm's rise, but still not smooth .
I have a 2007 2.7-liter Santa Fe with 71,000 miles. I experience intermittent rough idle and rough low speed driving. It seems that in town driving will trigger these conditions. And when it's warmer outside that oppose to colder temperatures.
In most cases I can turn the car off, and after 2-5 minutes, start it right back up and the problem with go away.
The OBD codes are P0276 and P0306.
I have replaced the coil and injector on #6 cylinder.
The #6 spark plug is dry when the problem occurs.
I had the dealer update the ECM software
I own a 2007 Hyundai santa fe. Whenever I add fuel to the gas tank, be it 5gal-10gal or filled the engine will run real rough for 3-4 minutes after doing so. All other times the engine runs fine. This only happens when I add fuel to the tank.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 2.7 all wheel drive santa fe automaic. It has 110 Kilometers on it. It is stop and go traffic everywhere, terrible roads, and lots of hills. I have actually only owned it for about 14k kilometers.
It has been fine since I bought it a year ago up until about 2 months ago. I was coming to a stop and as I got right to the end of my stop, the car jerked and made a clunk sound. No smell. I could tell it was when the tranny was coming down from 2nd to 1st. I tried to replicate it but got nothing. Ignored it but then it happened again. It seemed more prevalent when I was moving from 1st to second to stop over and over.
As I began to pay attention more and more, it happens much more when going up a hill or down a hill and almost always happens when I am about to make a u-turn and the wheel is turned all the way to the left. When it happens, it isn't always a big jerk. It never happens at speed, the other shifts are fine, and if I shift from reverse to drive too fast and accelerate, I get a clunk as well.