Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Power Door Locks Clicking On Every Acceleration
Jan 24, 2015
Power door locks are supposed to activate when the vehicle accelerates to a certain speed from starting the car but mine suddenly started clicking 4 times on-off-on-off every time the vehicle accelerates from every stop or near stop. It's been doing this for 2 weeks and is getting annoying in stop and go traffic.
I have clicked the lock switch on the driver's door to ensure that it works and is not stuck but not sure what else to check. I also made sure that all doors are closed correctly and no ice or snow in them.
2010 SantaFe w AWD
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I'm having issues with my Sante Fe. 6cyl model, 130k-ish miles.
The door lock issue is ongoing and hasn't been more than an inconvenience. When you try and use the power locks, often it doesn't completely lock the front doors. Other times they don't move at all. Sometimes they work fine. It is kind of a crap shoot. So...that is number one. Thought I would add it in while
This week it has developed an RPM surge usually between 2k and 3k rpms. It has happened with the air on and the air off. I tried being gentler on the pedal and that seemed to make it less frequent but I was also driving REALLY slow.
I put the car in manual (auto-stick or whatever it is called) and while it waited until nearly red-line to shift, it did not seem to have the issue. I am pretty sure the car is actually shifting gears which is causing the surge. What is causing it and there are no other issues.
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I was driving the other day and heard the light thump thump sound behind me. I wasn't sure but its the same as when the door locks are toggled. So I guess the system was locking or trying to lock them. I noticed my passenger door was showing unlocked (Red showing). I manually toggled it but the e-lock over rode opening immediately as I was driving. It just wiggled.
I tested parked at home and the passenger door lock does work. Locks and unlocks with the FOB. The manual passenger lever which should move in/out appears to be disconnected. It moves slightly each time but stays showing Red.
Now to pull the panel off but it s a long hot weekend here. Shops a closed and I expect something is broken. Maybe a plastic tab holding the arm. I'll look into it tomorrow in more depth. This doesn't account for the original sound but it stopped for now.
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This is the it's always something post. Alternator rebuilt to 185. Batteries tested by AAA. When I went into the truck tonight the door locks made a clicking sound like the battery was going dead. Truck fired right up at 0 degrees.
I just installed WARN locking hubs and now I only have a defroster blower that works. Is there anything else besides a vacuum leak that might cause that?
6 CD Player has had problems loading and unloading for a few years but now it just says initializing and goes right back to radio.
I am really regretting doing the right thing two weeks ago and not letting this truck burn when it caught on fire on the Turnpike.
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I have a 1998 VW Passat: The windows go down by themselves
Door locks are clicking
Hazard lights are flashing
The car isnt always running while this is happening, key is not in the ignition. Car can be unlocked or locked and it still happens.
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Noticed a whining noise upon acceleration, today. Noticed that it might be the power steering going. No sooner than I read this, and making a trip to my wife's graduation...Loss of power steering. What should I look for when I take it in, and tell them it's the power steering that is gone. Was reading about a potential correlation with having the rack and pinion replaced. That is something that was done about a year ago. Any real correlation? How bad is it to continue to drive without the power steering?
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When I use the fob to lock the '02 Santa Fe, the passenger door lock (only when hot outside) locks then unlocks. You can tell because you hear the locks cycle twice in rapid succession. If I use the key in the passenger door and lock the car, no issues; or if it's cool out no issues so something is expanding or dragging when it's hot. Where do I start the trouble shooting? The lock, the cables, the actuator?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe, recently all the door locks stopped working at once. When I use the Key Fob The Blinkers flash like they are supposed to but it does not lock/unlock the doors. The panic button also works. When I use the key in the door it only unlocks that door, meaning when I double turn the other doors do not lock/unlock. Now that this happened all at once I do not believe all the actuators broke at once. Is there a fuse or a relay that might of broke or blown?
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I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
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I own 2007 Camry and my door won`t lock with remote and push button to lock the door. ONLY driver door will respond to remote and push button. When I lock it, only driver door will lock. Light lights up when I press remote. Trunk works fine.
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I have a 2006 Camry and the power locks keep clicking intermittently -- irrespective of car being running or not running. We have two remotes and this happens with both the remotes. Problem started a few days after the car was detailed. What can I do -- very annoying clicking noise while driving?
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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I locked my SF yesterday evening as normal. This morning I am unable to open the locks remotely and I could see the clock is displayed inside, shouldn't be until I put the key in. I opened the drivers door with the key and the clock display goes out, I shut the door and hear a warning ping, clock display comes back on.
I can start the car OK, unlock/lock the other doors with the power lock switch no problem. Stop engine, remove key, clock comes back on, cannot use remote lock at all.
The only clue is a thunderstorm in the night and I'm wondering if lightning EMP has caused a glitch in the management computer.
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Ok been having some electrical issues. Im a disabled war vet and cannot afford overpriced mechanics so me and dad try to fix everything. Started weeks ago while driving if I flashed my high beams on I would lose power which made me think it was the altenator at first. Car left me stranded so had it towed to dads where we are trying to track down the problem on a 96 lexus es300. Now the car wont turn over although I do hear a clicking from the relay upfront. The headlights wont come on and door locks and security system no longer work.
Battery is new and good so we thought it was the ignition. Replaced today after tearing apart most of the dash to get to it . It fired up and cranked once then ceased to turnover yet again. When it turned over headlights and all power worked to door locks again. Fuses all seem good but seems there is an intermittent problem somewhere. Checked the 40amp fuse and it looked slightly blackish but intact and checked with volt meter and it tested fine. Im not sure where to go from this point. Maybe the integration switch or starter relay??
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This morning when I shifted to drive mode, the door locks remained unlocked. When I parked the car and tried to lock by touching the door handle, it didn't lock. Then I tried using the hand remote and it didn't. Finally, I had to manually lock each door. 2010 ES350....
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I have a 2007 Accent SE Hatchback. The drivers door will lock but will not unlock with the remote. The drivers door locks and unlocks with the inside door switch and locks and unlocks with the key. The passenger door and hatch unlock on the 2nd click with the remote. The only issue with the locking system is that the drivers door will not unlock with the remote.
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I have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
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I have a 2013 Santa Fe 2.0T Limited. The window (or trim for the window) makes a clicking/ticking noise that gets worse the more uneven the road surface, and also when cornering. If I push on the window it seems to stop.
I worry about taking it in for warranty work because last time I enquired about something different they told me if they can't replicate the problem I'd be liable for the mechanics time.
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Power windows and power door locks having a mind of their own? They will suddenly start working on their own. Some kind of a module perhaps?
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My car has been running great and last week when I turned it off it would not start back up. I checked the battery, starter, alternator, and all the fuses and still nothing. It cranks over fine but I have no power to the radio or door locks. What can be the problem?
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The power door locks on my '99 Tahoe do not always work. Most of the time they all operate except for the front passenger door. It attempts to move, maybe halfway, but doesn't lock or unlock all the way. It works fine manually. The keyfob works the same way as the door switch. About 10% of the time they all work fine including the passenger door.
I've been told they might not be getting enough voltage due to loose connections. The connections look good as far as I can tell. What should I look for on my multimeter and where should I test it?
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