I have been observing the passenger window for weeks. It is definitely slower than the driver one going up. No problem going down. The passenger window seems to stop at some point then slowly keeps on going up. That does not look right, it is definitely getting worse and I am ready to open the door panel. That would be my first time with a door panel.
View 17 RepliesThe passenger window on my 07 Santa Fe isn't working. I took everything apart and I even removed the motor from the door and it seems like there is just constant power going to the motor because when I plug it in the motor starts going even before I hit the switch.
I also removed the motor from the regulator too and the regulator seems fine and no cables are broken or off their wheels. When I do hit the window switch either way the window motor stops too. I'm not sure if my issue is on the driver side switch or the passenger side because both do the same thing...
So I've been noticing some issues with my 2011 GTI with only 1800 miles. I had some weird drive by wire issues, like the motor holding its RPMs with the clutch in for excessive time, a start up and idle issue (TPS?), my passenger window is very slow (heard that this is common), and now my driver window hesitates and pauses when rolling it down... ERR!
And yes I will take it to the dealer, its just that I live 100 plus miles away.
Traveling down Highway 27 yesterday in my 2007 Santa Fe, doing 65 MPH, when all of a sudden I hear a tapping at the passenger seat window. There it was, the gasket that surrounds my windshield had pulled loose and was flapping in the wind, occasionally tapping on the window.
I have never had the windshield replaced nor had any notion there was a problem. I had no tools with me but tried to force the gasket back into its place. Lasted only a couple miles.
Took it to the Hyundai dealer in Ft. Myers who proceeded to tell me they didn't do windshields and that it was not covered under the warranty. I have 44000 miles and it is a 2007. Does that seem right?
I can understand light bulbs, oil changes and things like that not being covered, but rubber gaskets around the windshield?
The driver side window goes up/down faster than the passenger one. I believe it has always been like that. Do you think that is a feature? Why is that? Could that be a defect?
View 10 RepliesMy 07 Santa Fe 3.3 has had a 10% drop in mileage. When put the accelerator to the floor it takes forever to speed up. I feel like I have a 100 Hp engine.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundia Santa Fe. The passenger front window will not roll down from driver side switch but will from passenger switch but then will not go up on passenger side switch. I found a broken wire on driver side and repaired it. I put a test light on the wires on the passenger side and used the driver switch and the test light lights when using the up button and down button! I have already put a new master switch in and tested all switches they all work!
View 1 RepliesWell it was a good run but after 6 years and 43,000 miles the window tab broke on the passenger window and now the window is off track on my 2007 ES 350. From everything I have read it's going to be a fairly expensive repair as the window will need to be replaced also.
I know there is a TSIB on this but, the car needs to be 48 months or 50,000 miles for it to be covered. I didn't know if I reached out to Lexus for some relief on this if they would at least cover some of the cost.
I have 129,000 miles on my Santa Fe. Approx. 1000 miles ago it started to act abnormal. The upshifts began to feel different and it was obvious by the Tachometer and the sound of the engine that they were taking longer. Along with that, whenever you are in 4th and you want to accelerate, it feels as if you are "dragging an anchor" , The vehicle has been well maintained, trans. fluid level OK, timing belt as well as plugs, air filter have been replaced. I have no codes locked in either. What may be going on.
View 6 RepliesOk on my 07 camry se, my right front passenger window rattles when in the up position. I noticed after the car has been sitting for awhile, that it's quiet but when I decide to open the window and then close it it starts to rattle. Now this happens when driving over bumps or have the music turned up.
View 3 RepliesOn my 2007 Lexus ES350, the front passenger window does not stay up.
Using either the driver's switch or the passenger door switch, the window rolls up to the top, then comes back down (the other three windows work fine).
With deft manipulation of the switch, I can get it almost closed.
The only recent 'event' on the car is that I changed the eight year-old OEM battery two weeks ago; the window began acting up two days ago.
Is this programming that was lost when the battery was removed, or am I looking a regulator/pinch motor issue?
That's the window regulator, right? It works fine but sounds like a computer printer from 1987 when it goes up and down. I've owned 3 5th gen ES cars and every single one had the problem. I stopped by the dealer today to use my aftermarket warranty to replace but they said they wanted a $150 diagnostic fee.
View 1 RepliesPurchased this car new. 2008 GLS w/ V6 2.7L engine. Wife's car, so I rarely drive it. She's complained for a month about an intermittent issue with the jar "jerking", usually during slow speeds.
I felt it for the first time myself. Was halfway through a pretty tight curve at around 20 MPH, starting to slowly accelerate when I felt a definitive lurch. might have been momentary loss of acceleration, or transmission. Not sure which. No CEL thrown.
I did see another thread mentioning a 2007 with a similar issue, but that person had codes thrown that pointed to a Throttle position sensor and a need to reflash a transmission. Think I'm seeing the same situation, or would this be different ? Absent any CEL, I'm sure the dealer will not be able to find it....
Heating comes up very well although air flow at the feet isn't very high but adequate. However, I notice once the cabin is warmed and it reverts to keeping it at the set temperature. I never sense it coming back on to heat again and air output feels cool.
The following doesn't reactive it into the typical heat output as when I get into a cold vehicle.
- going out to fill up for gas with doors opening etc with engine off then leaving is still a very cool output and no further warming appears to take place
- loading shopping from purchases does not seem too cool the sensor enough while engine is still running
- even while driving setting it another .5C higher does not make a difference once its cycle off the main heat mode.
Where is the SF sensor located for the internal system and is this slow response normal. How much of a drop in temperature does it need to pump at lease warm air. I'll have to experiment further I guess and adjust full degree increments until I get a response. I am comfortable most of the time but I don't like cool air blowing at me through the vents in the winter.
My battery got too low and messed up my passenger window after charged. The issue now is...the strangest issue I've seen.. The passenger window! If I push the down button where it will automatically go down it just goes down and stops about an inch from hitting the bottom, If I push the up button to automatically go up BUT it will automatically goes down by itself when it hit the top and stop about an inch from bottom..
If I push the button soft to go up slowly and then let go the button when it reach the top it will stay.. Like I said it will not go down all the way, stop about an inch from bottom.
I have a 07 Sonata. The front passenger side power window is not working. How can I determine whether its the window motor or regulator?
View 1 RepliesAbout a month ago, I noticed my 2007 Mazda3 making a rattling noise whenever the front passenger window is anywhere from cracked to almost all the way down. When the window is up or all the way down, there is no noise. When the door is in it's "sound-prone" state, I can replicate the sound either by going over a bump or just pulling and pushing on the door interior door handle. I've looked this up online and it seems to be pointing toward me needing a new window regulator. I haven't noticed any function loss, just the rattling sound that makes it sound like the car's falling apart. Does this seem like the right thing to try? What would cause the regulator to malfunction after only four years? Should I buy new or look for it at the local salvage yards? If it matters, my Mazda3 has electric windows.
View 4 RepliesI am speaking on behalf of my Mother who just purchased a 07 Santa Fe, a long story short my niece in the rear passenger seat attempted to put the window down while my Mother attempted to put the window up at the same time. Now the window is stuck down. We have owned the car less then a week. I was thumbing through the Owners manual and it specifically states something in there about "Do not attempt to move the window in opposite directions at the same time" So it is only my assumption that this is what has happened. The door control does not work and the Drivers control doesn't work on that specific window but works on the others. I checked the relays and fuses for the power windows and they looked fine. I have never seen anything about moving a window up and down simultaneously causing issues in any other car I have owned is this a hyundai deal?
View 4 RepliesThe front passenger window on my 2007 Sonata has always been sluggish. Recently it broke (I heard something snap) when I tried to roll it down on a cold day. I decided I want to take a shot at fixing it myself before bringing it in to the mechanic. I've made some progress but I'm having trouble removing the inner door panel where the window regulator mechanism is.
The window can be pushed down or pulled up by hand fairly easily, but there's enough resistance (for now) to hold it in place and keep it from just dropping down into the door.
I removed the main door panel without any problems. The window regulator cables and mechanism are behind a second panel that I'm having trouble removing and I can see through the holes in the inner panel that the window is still attached to the two "lifters".
I haven't been able to find a lot of detailed instructions for this step. I've been following the steps outlined in some this youtube video [URL] ...., but there seems to be something I'm missing when I try to get the panel off.
I have freed the black adhesive around the edge of the panel, and I've removed all the main bolts on the inside of the door, the 3 bolts at the door latch, detached the inner door handle and removed the outer door handle, but I still can't get much movement in the panel to free it. I'm hesitant to tug or pry the panel too hard because I don't want to bend the metal at all and ruin the fit with the door.
Is there any trick to loosening the panel so that it comes out and I can get behind it? Do I need to slide or rotate it, or is it held by any clips similar to the ones that held the main door panel? Most of the resistance seems to be coming from the area to the right of the speaker (between the speaker and where the inside handle to close the door would be). I can try to provide more details if necessary.
My 2010 Santa Fe has an intermittent all window condensation problem, regardless whether the car has been idle overnight or whilst driving it has occurred on numerous occasions. In one case in the morning I had to use a towel to dry the inside windows. I have tried leaving the heater / AC on various settings but it still occurs. I have noticed that the door windows when I open / close them the seals do not touch the glass. In the short term the AC and fast windscreen/rear window buttons do clear the moisture but it does re-occur especially whilst driving...
View 6 RepliesI just bought a used 2011 Santa Fe. Two weeks ago, the right window stopped working. Neither the left or right switch had any effect. All other windows worked. A few minutes later it was ok and has been since. Today the left window did the same thing; was inop for a while then ok.
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