Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Passenger Side Low-beam Failed To Come On
Nov 26, 2013
A few weeks ago my passenger side low-beam failed to come on during a short road trip. After a failed attempt to find a replacement at 9PM I had no choice but to continue on my way, about an hour later, as I was driving along, it suddenly came back on with no trouble since. I haven't touched any wires or fuses.
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This morning a dash light informed me a headlight bulb was out. It was my DTR light on the passenger side.
I purchased Sylvania H7 high intensity, installed it and it failed to work properly. Daytime light on only drivers side works.
High Beam on , both lights works.
I checked my manual and it said to check fuse in the 5 slot on the driver side dash/door panel and there actually is no fuse in there. I checked the driver side and there was no fuse there either.
I replaced my driver side bulb last year and it took 5 mins....i am already 4 hours into this!
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I have a strange problem. My driver side low beam dont work and my right side high beam dont work. Try different relay (switching), check fuse, bulb etc. Also in my dashboard the right green arrow for the flasher always still on(solid).
If I activate (with the control arm) the right turn flasher the flasher light blink in the dash board and my outside flasher bulb flash but my left high beam also blinking in the same time!
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Noticed my passenger side HID low beam went out about a week ago... 2008 ls460, out of warranty
1 - changed HID bulb, still out
2 - checked applicable fuses in fuse box in engine compartment, all seems fine
3 - changed to new ballast, still nothing
All the other lights in the headlight are operating fine, only the low beam is still out. Somehow the ballast is not receiving power.
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My passenger low beam headlights went out. I replaced the burnt out bulb but it still won't work.
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I have a short somewhere in my 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe. I got in one night and had no lights. Found a fuse that was blown and thought i solved the problem. The left Low Beam is still out.All other lights work. I used a light tester and I get power on both sides LH Low beam fuse where on the right side low beam and all other fuses I only get power on one side (Light Lights up). The low Beam left relay is same way. I get power in center of relay where I don't get it power in center on right low beam relay. I have switch all bulbs. Even switched entire light assembly with the right side thinking short could be there but the left side low Beam still has no power to bulb and same short in fuse and relay. So somewhere from fuse box under hood to the Multifunction Switch is a short and is it possible for an average DIY to fix this. Is Multifunction Switch easy to replace and would that be the cause or is it inside tightly taped wire bundle or something else I am missing.
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I have an 07 Passat Wagon. The headlight malfunction indicator light came on for my passenger side low beam. I replaced the bulb, which was visibly burn out (broken filament), but with a new bulb in, the light still is not working and the malfunction indicator is still on. What is the cause of this? I have the regular headlamps, not the xenon lights.
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I have a 2007 Ford Escape with a passenger side low beam that won't turn on when the headlights are turned on. I have replaced both low beam lights and checked all the fuses. Fuses are ok,none are burned out. My high beams work perfectly as well as my fog lamps. I need any and all advice and information , including any simple wiring diagrams that could be of use . Is it possible that the multi function switch for the turn lights and headlights is the problem?.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. Today I briefly turned the heat on since the outdoor temp was cool. Later in the day, I resumed the A/C AUTO setting at 72 for BOTH sides of upper vent outlets. I soon noticed that the driver's side blows warm air and the passenger side blows cold air as it should. No amount of adjusting the temp control either up or down had any effect on the driver's side except for constant warm air. Now I know the passenger side can be adjusted separately but both sides were set for the same temp. Never had this happen before. Always before, if I wanted warm air, the warm air would come through the floor outlets. What's causing warm air to come out the top driver's side vents when it should be cold? Could a diverter door be stuck?
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I have a 2007 hyundai Santa Fe GLS. When the AC is on the drivers side blows hot air and the passenger side cold air. Both actuators are working driver side and passenger side. I watched them engage as I changed air flow and temp. What I should look at next? Also, the rear ac button light will not come on and it blows hot as well.
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Never seen this problem before. Thought I had a leak in the system and had to have it serviced. The AC did not seam to be blowing cold. It would take forever to cool off. Was trying to get as much air on me as possible so I decided to point the passenger side vents towards the drivers side to cool off in the mean time. I noticed the passenger side was cold. Air is blowing out of the drivers side but not cold like the passenger side.
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My santa fe was pulling to the passenger side and i got it aligned again at shop but after that was done its still pulling to the right side. What could be a cause of that? it only has 17 000 km.
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So I was driving yesterday and my roof was still covered in snow. Came to a stop sign on a hill and all the snow from the roof decided to come off all at once onto my windshield. I turned the wipers on and only 1 wiper moved so I turned them off and then had to get out and clean all the snow off. Now my passenger side wiper arm doesn't move or moves randomly but not in sync with the other at all. If I lift the wiper arm up so the blade is in the air the arm moves no problem but the second I put the blade down it acts up again. It doesn't look bent or anything but it is loose and wobbly as in I can move the arm up and down where the drive side one seems pretty firm. How I can even take off the arm in the first place to look at it?
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My son was hearing a bit of a squeaking on the passenger side. So I decided after some time to pull the front wheel. (most important brake). Well the pad wasn't moving on the outer guides (serviced it as required and lubed to get it moving). But the lower guide pin wouldn't move in/out. Needed to drift it out and it was very well rusted end to end. I put new pads on early as year I am sure and all was fine. I cleaned the pin on my wire wheel grinder. That lower pin had a collar near then end. Turns out its rubber, I thought it was a metal spring collar. Oh well the wire wheel did a number on it. I don't know the significant of that piece nor whether the pin is in the right place since the top one is different. I do these one at a time so its almost impossible I swapped them in the number of times they've been out.
I never seen so much tightening on any vehicle of pads and pins rusting in as on this vehicle. One has to wonder why. My vehicle also seems to have or what sound like a gear slap upon engaging in reverse or forward from front and back which is most notable after sitting and first engaged. Not every time but this is built in 2007 and there is a TSB for some washers. Hyundai Canada does NOT use the same TSB number they have their own. I talked to a dealer about it but he never indicated it would be the cause only its a different number. I am not impressed in this AWD drive power train. It needs a lot of TLC and the slap I hear is typically due to power train engagement play/slack being excessive most likely due to wear somewhere.. Even my rear sound off not a howl but noisy running which doesn't change with road surfaces so its not the tires. Maybe the AWD bearing or unit going. No of this should even remotely close to needed anything for at least another 100-150k at least.
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My 2012 Santa fe crdi2.2 has 150000km. At the speed of 90km/H and faster there is a vibration coming from the back (passenger side I think).
There is no play on that wheel when it’s in the air, but it doesn’t turn smoothly. It turns smoothly until a point where there is obviously friction, once past that point it turns smoothly again for 3 quarters of the way until it reaches the same point…
The back wheel on the passenger’s side is the same story. Although the vibrations seem to come mainly from the driver’s side (at the back). Is this a wheel bearings problem or can it be something else?
I put a winter wheel at the back (driver’s side) to see if the problem was caused by the wheel. There is less vibration when driving, but it also starts at 90km/H. This winter tyre is higher, so probably it absorbs the vibrations better.
It's not a 4x4.
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I have been noticing some kind of a oil/water mix wet spot on the floor every where i park. It looks like some thing is leaking near rear passenger wheel, close to struts. I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe SE with 19K miles....
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My 2006 Prius (Model NHW20) has a strange headlight problem. On the passenger side, the high beam light is out but the regular headlight works.
On the driver side, the high beam is working but the regular headlight is out.
I don't think it's the fuses but I'm not sure. No amount of interchanging the following fuses changes anything about the issue:
1. 10A H-LP HI RH
2. 10A H-LP HI LH
3. 15A H-LP LO RH
4. 15A H-LP LO LH
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The driver side window goes up/down faster than the passenger one. I believe it has always been like that. Do you think that is a feature? Why is that? Could that be a defect?
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I noticed the other day that my passenger side heated seat is partially not working. The seat back is heated, but not the seat bottom. The driver's seat works perfectly.
I did a test over a 10 minute time period with the car idling in the garage (door open) and the HVAC system off. I did not touch the seats during the test. I took all readings with a contact-less infrared thermometer. At the beginning of the test, each seat portion was at 14C (57F). At the end of 10 minutes, the Driver's seat bottom and back, and the passenger's back had heated up to 20-22C (68-72F), but the passenger seat bottom had cooled down to 10C (50F). This temperature was the ambient temperature outside with the garage door open.
I checked the fuse, which of course it would be alright as 3/4 of the system is working. I took a look under the defective seat, but with the amplifier there, I didnt have much room to maneuver my big hands. All of the wiring harnesses looked like they were in place.
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I've had a few problems lately with water leaking into the vehicle. The second row passenger side seatbelt is getting soaked, and water can be seen dripping out of the small slot in the wall panel that the seatbelt comes out of. Of course, it all makes its way down to the floor, which gets soaked.
Luckily, I've got third row seating, so the second row passenger side seat flips up and I can get access to the floor and soak up the water with towels.
The leaking only seems to occur when the vehicle is parked with the front pointing uphill (even on very minor grades). I've tried, unsuccessfully, to replicate the problem with a hose, but I only have a level area to test in, and don't have any service ramps to get the front elevated.
From reading various posts on here, and elsewhere, it seems that there are a few possibilities:
- The "dam" that surrounds the sunroof to collect water and send it to the drains is overflowing and water is getting into the wall of the vehicle.
- The sun roof drains are plugged, which may be contributing to the dam overflowing
- The sun roof drain tube has become disconnected inside the roof or wall
Can the rear drain tubes are routed down the "B" or "C" pillar? Depending where they go, I may be able to eliminate a disconnected tube as the problem. I've also read that there was a service bulletin related to increasing the height of the dam, but haven't determined yet if it applies to my vehicle.
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I have a 2012 Santa FE 2.4L, I have a knocking sound happening in my front passenger side once I go over bumps. Would like some info on the different parts that can cause this.
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