Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Parking / Emergency Brake Pedal Adjustments
May 14, 2015
I went to adjust my Santa Fe's parking brake (pedal version) and am trying to troubleshoot. The pedal goes all the way to the floor, something like 11+ clicks....
I jacked up the rear end, pulled the tires off, rotated the drum so that I could access the adjusting nut and used a flat head screwdriver to rotate it all the way back to where it wouldn't rotate anymore. After that I clicked it ~5-7 clicks. Same process on each side.
Went to go test the pedal, still goes to the floor, same number of clicks, etc.
Tried to locate an adjusting nut for the pedal but cannot find one, if one exists. The fuse box sits perfectly in the way but I was able to view everything with a little bit of effort and still couldn't locate the mythical adjusting nut.
I know I did the adjustment on the rear brakes correctly so it's an issue with the pedal/cable/nut.
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My mother-in-law moved my car and put the emergency brake on (2010 Santa Fe) when she got out. When I got into drive home, I drove about 10miles with it engaged (for some reason the light didn't indicate it was on). When I got home I noticed a burnt rubber smell from the left rear tire. (no smoke though)
Our driveaway is an incline. After engaging/disengaging the e-brake, the light started coming back on again. If I put the car in neutral and release the regular brakes, it will quickly roll back. If I put the e-brake on in netural and disengage the regular brake, it still holds fine on the hill.
I know the damage can vary, but any test or check I can do to determine the amount of damage?
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There are a few threads on a sticking parking brake resulting in the warning light remaining on. Mine has developed to a stage that it requires a toe under the foot pedal every time to silence the alarm.
I finally stuck my head in the footwell this morning to look at the mechanism, expecting to see a strained spring. However there was no spring in evidence and I saw that when the parking break is released, the cable remains with some free play above the contact point with the pedal: i.e. there is no tension on the cable when the pedal is released, there is about 15mm of "free cable", leaving the pedal almost "floppy".
Observations
1) The pedal has no spring to return to it's correct position. Based on self study guide SSP_277 this is not as it should be as on page 37 this discusses a spring mechanism in the pedal
2) I would image there should be tension in the cable even when released; I feel the rear mechanism requires inspection as there are springs there.
3) While the parking brake works fine, It has a lot more travel that it previously had. Thus something is worn, stuck, or the self adjusting mechanism is not working.
4) For the record, car has 110K miles, the temperature is above freezing, the behaviour is not weather dependent and the parking brake has been routinely used (2008 car).
5) My recollection from new is the parking brake was released with a significant spring action: quite abruptly.
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I have a 1996 850 glt .... As it is an Automatic, we don't rely on the handbrake to hold the car when parked as where we live is flat etc, but still use it.
Near side rear is fine, Off side rear refuses to work. I have a 1995 t5 that is currently in dry dock so can use for parts etc.
Adjusted up the brake shoes both sides with handbrake released by adjusting to locked on and backing off about 4 clicks. Then adjusted the lever so it gave me about 4-5 clicks before fully on.
NSR works as it should, OSR has had cable, shoes, caliper, disk replaced (all work as they should as individual items)and handbrake still not working.
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I always put on the emergency brake before putting the car in park. My husband only uses the park gear and not the emergency brake. Is this harmful to the car?
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Does it harm the emergency brake to use it instead of the foot brake to slow while gliding into a parking spot?
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Let my brother borrow my 98 S-10 and before he even got home with it he called and said the brake light was on. I figured it was the emergency pedal was down a little. Said there were no leaks. Got it back today and the fluid level is way down. Filled, but the low pedal is still there. Can find no leaks. Also the ck engine light is on. May not be related. Didn't get a chance to ck code.
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1994 Ranger XLT 4.0 5spd 4WD 168,000 miles
the emergency brake will hold vehicle but pedal won't stay down. figured it would do the normal "ratchet" feel and sound.
also, i did a really dumb thing with 4wd. i will try to make a long story short. a few months ago when we had that snow storm and then another shortly after, i decided to lock my hubs but DID NOT engage the 4wd. my top speed was 55 in the weather going to work. i came home one night for a brief moment, shut truck off and went inside. i came right back out to go to my mom's house (not a focal point in story but she lives only three blocks away)
when i started my truck i noticed the 4wd light was on (4H, not "low range") could NOT get light to go out and 4wd does not work, engage or "disengage". (i know it's not engaged by the little bit of a test wheel slip on snow packed street)
not sure what to do. was told to check vacuum hoses but it's an electronic shift. what should my next plan of action be?
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I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with the 2.7L V6. There is a recurring issue where the ABS and Emergency Brake light come on, followed by the fuel gauge dropping to E, then all lights dimming until they go out. The car continues to run, but if you shut it off it won't start for about 30 minutes, then it start just fine with full power. The alternator and battery have been replaced twice in the last 10 months, most recently 3 days ago. The problem persists. I did find the right downstream O2 sensor to have broken wires which were causing a short. I replaced the O2 sensor and wiring harness, which cleared all engine codes, however the problem does still exist.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe w/ ~25,000km. Yesterday, I noticed that after depressing the brake pedal (while driving) i hear a wheezing noise and then a click right before i come to a complete stop. When i am stationary, and i depress the break pedal, i hear the clicking noise but no wheezing sound.
I just took it into service today and even drove around the lot with one of the service techs and he says its normal. That the clicking noise is coming from the shifter release. I don't believe i heard this sound when i bought it, nor any other time till yesterday. The sound is driving me crazy! This cant be normal .... can it?
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When I release the brake pedal too fast, the brake pedal bounces back with sound which is a little bit loud to me. I feel the sound is from the spring if there's one. It's annoying so I have to remove my foot from the brake very slowly. Is it normal?
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This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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I bought a 2007 Prius 2 months ago and I noticed that when I stop at a stop light and engage the parking/emergency brake while keeping it in Drive gear the car creeps forward. I have more experience with manual cars where when you pull the emergency brake it locks the car and prevents it from rolling forward or back despite the car being still in gear, so I'm curious to know whether this is a normal thing with a Prius and pushing the P button in addition to the emergency brake at a stop light with a slight incline is necessary. I find that this two step process of disengaging the E break and putting the car back in Drive makes you slow to take off. But what I want to know if this normal with a Prius?
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This morning I drove my car to see my dentist. When I parked I engaged the parking brake as I always do out of habit. However this time when I was done at the dentist and got in my car I tried to disengage the parking brake pedal and it wouldn't release. It kept going lower. Now I think its pretty much floored. I had to leave the car in the parking lot as it started to rain heavily. How to release the brake pedal. ? I think it must just be a stuck lever or gear thats preventing the release mechanism from working. Any pics or have dis-assembled a parking brake pedal on the phaeton before.
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It seems about once a week the rubber cover that goes over the food pedal for the parking brake comes off. I've been careful to replace it correctly but it still keeps happening? Btw it's a 2010 v with atp ...
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I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre with 226k and my parking/E-brake annoys me. The brake isn't stuck or anything, but the pedal doesn't come back all the way, at least not enough to turn off the brake light or accompanying dinging. Most of the time, the cable is disconnected from the pedal to keep the light and dinging off unless I have to use it. Is there any way to adjust the parking brake to get the pedal to fully return or is there something else wrong with the system?
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2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
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The switch for the parking brake pedal light self loosened (a known issue with this switch) over the past six months and today it finally fell off the pedal assembly. The only way I can see to do the repair is to remove the three fasteners that attach the parking brake pedal assembly to the dash and drop the pedal to the floor to refasten the switch. It appears to be possible; however, there are lots of stuff around the assembly that might get in the way of dropping the assembly so I raised the white flag and called it a day.
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I was driving my 98 Tahoe yesterday making a visit to my sister. pulled the truck into the drive-way, put the gear selector in park, stepped on the parking brake (a habit I've had for years) and YIKES! the peddle moved down with no resistance!
my parking brake light stayed on even after I released the parking brake peddle, which didn't spring back, but I pulled it back. light stayed on when I started the truck although I think the brake never engaged in the first place.
I drove the truck and didn't notice any drag at all. after driving a few miles I stopped the truck and felt the wheels for excessive heat but didn't experience that. my guess is the cable broke or came off and didn't engage the parking brake in the first place. sound correct?
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