Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Oil Pressure Light Would Come On Sporadically - Leaking Seal
May 16, 2016
My oil pressure light came on about a week ago (while I was out of town), so I took it to the dealer who replaced the oil pressure sensor. I got home and noticed oil was leaking. Brought it to my mechanic who said it was probably just residual oil (same thing I found on this forum), but he put dye in the oil just to be sure. I brought the car back today and it is definitely leaking oil from the engine. He said it was probably the main seal at the back. It is now at the local dealer who has said that the seal is covered by warranty.
Could the original problem have been caused by the leaking seal? The car was originally leaking oil and the oil pressure light would come on sporadically. Generally the light would go off when I accelerated. I realize that these sensors tend to break pretty regularly, but it was not a warranty item and this seems like a pretty big coincidence to me. Maybe it is just a coincidence ?
2011 Santa Fe ltd, awd, 69000 miles, 3.5 L.
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My 2010 Santa Fe is leaking oil. I bought it in April & it has under 8,000 miles. After parking the car, I see oil spots that range in size from a Silver Dollar to a CD after a few hours.
First, the dealer said it was a cracked oil filter cap, so they replaced that...I brought it home and it was still leaking.
Brought it back to the dealer, and now they are saying the Timing Chain Cover Seal is leaking.
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Newly acquired 2011 Santa Fe GL. Recently had a 2008 Azera GLS.
We received the Santa Fe a week ago and have since put 600 km on her. I took her into my work (auto mechanic) to wash and wax, looked underneath the engine and noticed 2 drops of what appeared to be engine oil. Between the transmission and engine block there are 2 10mm vertical bolts. The drops of oil have accumulated on the head of the bolts. There is a small "plate" between trans and engine with oil "weepage". My guess is the engine rear main seal is leaking! Not a small repair and certainly at 600 km.
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I have a 10 Santa Fe with the 3.5 - with 85,000kms -
Low and behold - with weekend my oil pressure sender circuit started leaking.
I actually tried to replace it myself - once I got the intake mani off I could not get any tools to work to remove it.....bummer.
Also - - - we have recently replaced the rear electronic clutch for the rear differential - - the seal went and fluid was leaking into the clutches - - - another warranty repair.
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After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
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At first we would use the remote and sometimes the lock would not lock the drivers side door but the rest of the car would. Normally if I tried a second time it would catch and lock.
Now I need to flip the lock switch myself when getting out of the car. I can unlock the car with the remote but there has been the odd time that it will not unlock via the remote and I've had to go around to the passenger side and reach over to unlock the drivers side door.
If I hold the lock and try to unlock or lock the car it is very weak compared to doing the same with all the others doors.
From looking around if sounds like it could be the actuator?
If this is the case how easy is this to replace on my own? I've been trying to see if there's a video anywhere but no luck finding one.
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Question about the oil light. On a cold start the oil pressure light goes out immediately.
After driving around for a while (engine warmed up) and shutting off the engine for anywhere between 45 to 60 minutes or so and then starting the engine again, the oil light will go out immediately, but then SOMETIMES, pop back on, MAYBE flicker, then stay off. This all takes place in less than a second, almost a microsecond. This is all very intermittent too, No rhyme or reason as to temp or time between starts. Engine is very quiet, except for a COLD start (over night). I use 5-20 and it makes no difference whether using conventional or synthetic.
I change my own oil, but dealer did it once and I still get the same issue. I suspect the sending unit, or is this 'normal'?
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I have now had the first major issue with my 2012 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD. It started out with an intermittent low oil pressure light coming on at idle. As I researched I found the Oil Pressure Switch thread:
Oil Pressure Switch Replacement - 2010 Santa Fe 3.5L
And using that information I proceeded to replace the switch and while the switch had obviously failed unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I tore everything down a second time to make sure the replacement switch hadn't failed and to make sure it wasn't leaking. Turns out that everything looked good yet the oil pressure light was still coming on after everything was warmed up.
Tonight I tore everything down for a third time to put an extension hose on the oil pressure port so I could hook up a mechanical pressure gauge in addition to the oil switch. While I am very pleased with how the extension hose worked out, however it appears that I do indeed have low oil pressure. Without letting it warm up completely I was dropping down below 15psi.
I guess at this point my best case scenario is a malfunctioning oil pump and worst case is worn bearings. With only 67k miles and fairly religious oil changes I am praying for the oil pump. My next step is to contact the dealer as I am still under the powertrain warranty, hopefully that goes well. I will try to keep this thread updated as I learn more. Up to this point I have really enjoyed the Santa Fe and have had minimal issues with it.
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A little background information: 2007 Honda Civic EX, 62000 miles, never been in an accident other than a couple bumper breakers, I'm the second owner and bought the car Certified Pre-Owned in 2008. I take pretty decent care of the car -- regular tune ups and oil changes. The check engine light comes on sporadically. It'll be on for a full day, and then it'll disappear, and won't reappear for a week, sometimes more.
Last summer, I got into one of those bumper breakers I mentioned before. I rolled into a car in front of me at about 7 mph when I took my eyes off the road for a moment because a woman swung open her car door next to me as I passed, and it grabbed my attention. Cracked my bumper, knocked off the Honda "H" logo, and otherwise caused cosmetic damage, but no mechanical damage from what I could tell. I didn't have anybody look at it, but since then I have had 2 oil changes, 2 tune ups and an inspection, and nobody noticed any problems. It turns out that my radiator had the slightest ding in it and was causing me to very slowly leak coolant. There were never any signs -- no corrosion, no pools under the car, nothing like that. It wasn't until this week when my car began overheating and my check engine light came on that I realized there was a problem. I had the radiator replaced and the transmission fluid changed because it was pretty well burnt up.
At the mechanic, they hooked up my car to their computer and the on-board computer gave them this error message: "P0848 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure SW (Open or Stuck)". The mechanic tells me that I need a whole new transmission. I am completely in disbelief. At only 62000 miles? Only a year or so removed from when my CPO Powertrain Warranty expired? It's a big pill to swallow. Especially since I'm a relatively poor 30 year old who is getting married in November and don't have a penny to spare.
So, here are my questions for you:
(1) What does this error message mean?
(2) Does it really mean that I need a whole new transmission? If not, what is the recommended procedure to fix the problem...
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My high mount break light works sporadically. When I break, sometimes you can see it as bright as it can be, other times it is dim, and then sometimes no light comes on. The dealership could not even figure out how to get to the led unit.
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I have a 2010 LS460L AWD with the OEM wheels. Periodically, one or two of my tires experience slow PSI drops. The Firestone Auto Center attributes the tire pressure loss to wheel corrosion where the tire bead meets the wheel. After the Auto Center cleans the wheel, the tire pressure holds. However, the problem recurs periodically. It is not isolated to one wheel...
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I opened the plastic under cover for transmission drain and fill. And found oil is leaking under belts. I took pictures around there. What's wrong on my 07 SF?
The amount is not too much. I guess 100ml for some months when I see the upside deposit of the plastic cover. It looks like engine oil. The oil might be from engine cover gasket..??
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I was just advised that the transmission mount on my 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe is leaking. Part #21910-2B500. I am looking at $444 to have it replaced. How easy is it to replace? Are there special tools needed?
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While the dealer was diagnosing my low-oil-pressure warning light issue, they found out that there is a minor leakage around the thermostat housing (So minor that no trace of coolant had found its way to my garage floor). They recommended to have the housing and thermostat replaced. They said that the engine needs to be dropped in order for them to get to the thermostat which is facing the firewall. Now, that's bad packaging.
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What should the A/C high and low side pressure readings be for a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe SE?
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I have a 2008 sante fe 3.3 the water pump is leaking. I have the replacement pump, however I'm not sure how it is designed to come out due to clearance issues. It's easy enough to unbolt a pull loose, however clearance between the car frame and pulley is 1/4 inch. How does it come out of the compartment?
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I noticed my 2009 AWL Santa Fe (3.3L if it maters) had been 'bouncing' in the front end...so i brought it in to have it looked at.
The dealer here has advised me both front struts are leaking, and its still safe to drive.
This car bounces a lot, but on city roads, its not bad...On highway, you hit a little hump in the road, and it seems to bounce A LOT...for a bit of time, then settles. City driving isn't' that bad, its the highway that's freaky.
This coming weekend, I'm going camping, and tow 3500lbs with my Santa Fe, i have a weight distribution system/bars on the trailer to the vehicle. so it moves some of the weight to the front.
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My 2007 3.3l SF timing chain cover is leaking.It has 93,000Kms and is still covered by warranty.The Dealer said it was a 17hr break down job to do.
I am wondering if there are things I should get done/replaced when they open the engine up. I had asked at the dealer if there were other parts that should be replaced at this time, but was told that there was not.
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Have 63,000 miles on my 2011 Sante Fe. Took it in for maintenance at the dealer in Connecticut and the mechanic said the struts are leaking. I took a look at them and did notice that they have more of a sweat look on them. Dealer is quoting 750 to replace. Sounds high to me.
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I'm a Santa Fe owner since I bought a 2007 2.2CRDI 4 wheel drive model in 2008. It's been a great machine with over 340000 Km on the clock.
This motor has caused no problems until now, and oil & filter changed as specified. This motor had never needed engine oil top-ups until recently, and my tale of woe started about two weeks ago when I got a "sump level low" light when stopped on a steeply inclined drive. I stopped the engine and rolled back to flat ground where the light disappeared on re-start. I duly topped up the engine oil, and it took about two litres to bring it up midway on the dipstick.
All seemed ok until about a week later I spotted a longer than usual shut-off of the oil pressure warning light, and over a period of three maybe five startups from cold it has gone from a delay of two seconds to five, even six. The oil in use is a 10/40, so clearly that will suit cold starts best. Once the light has gone out it stays out, even after a long drive though a short stop/start will show a delay of up to a second before the light goes out. The engine still sounds smooth with no rattles that might associate oil starvation.
My mechanic thinks it may be the oil strainer in the sump, or worst case scenario the oil pump. There has been a whining noise from the engine for some time which raises with the engine rev's, and this seems (according to some blogs) maybe to be associated with oil pump wearing out?
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I have a 2011 Limited and I wanted to mention that I brought it in for the ECM service campaign and to have an oil leak looked at. The reflashing went as expected, I am still trying to decide if the car behaves any different. It seems like the engine RPM drops a little bit when slowing down then bounces back up. Nowhere near enough to stall or anything.
While I had it in the shop, I had them look at an oil leak that I have been having. According to the dealer, it is leaking from the timing chain cover. They have ordered some parts and I will be taking it in for the fix next week. I don't have a full list of which parts they will be replacing, but he did mention removing the valve covers and installing a new oil pressure switch while they were in there.
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