Just going home from work and the oil light started flickering on and off, so decided to get to my local garage straight away, i pulled away from a junction and the engine started to clatter getting louder as i pulled up at the garage where it stands now.
View 15 RepliesThis week my oil light came on, really was flickering on and off. I parked it and called the dealer, towed it just in case.
Dealer tested the oil pressure cold and hot, all is good. So they think it is the oil pressure switch, which they said was very unusual with a new vehicle (11,000km). They opened an inquiry with Hyundai, but they have not got back to the dealer yet. So they have ordered a new switch, but to replace it they said they have to remove some manifolds and stuff to get at it, so they have ordered all the caskets etc....
It only seem to flicker when at operating temperature. I really don't like to see them pull manifolds etc... on a new engine, but I need to be sure I can rely on the indicator. Right now the dealer said I have no problems driving the vehicle till the parts come in.
So, after all, my sonata engine oil light started flickering yesterday on the way home from work. The light would come on on idle only. I tried to keep the light off by maintaining higher rpm. I knew I have enough oil and I was 2700 miles only in my oil change. Sonata has 97k miles. It was checked by the dealer on Feb 2016 for the engine recall. Dealer said no issues found. Even tough I always hear my engine is noisy. I tried to contact the dealer, they didn't promise any support or any good.
So, I took it to my trusted mechanic and did a proper oil change and filter using 10w30 full synthetic oil. Starting the engine, the light started flickering after 15 min idle. Always using Hyundai's genuine filters and changing full synthetic oil every 4k miles. It looks like the engine is bad. What do you think? Keep pushing on Hyundai's dealer will get me any good? Should I just rebuild / swap engine or just it is the time to get rid of the car? What to do. Dealer really reported no issue with engine when performing recall. 3k miles later in normal driving conditions the oil light is on...
I have a very strange electrical issue and CarMax is unable to find the source.
Detail of issue: It started 2 months ago before i left the country i took my car in to get the dreaded valve gasket cover and alternator and after taking the car back i left for Europe for 2 months. I was informed after 2 weeks that my car battery died and had to be jumped.
When I returned home I notice the following issues
1) Alternator Whine in my Sound System
2) Low frequency noise synchronized with engine rev that was triggering the sub low end making a very distinct wooom.
3) Sudden Power Loss for my secondary AMP. The base would cut on /off.
4) Light flicker in my Dashboard (only the GEAR LED) and the entire climate LCD. flicker also synchronized with engine rev.
5) POWER drop on the air con fans while breaking (the RPM would drop)
6) I saw the headlights where also flickering at the same frequency with the LCD and dash led a very noticeable flicker.
7) my headlights would dim when breaking.
8) My Car would start a bit slower (not as instant as before).
Initially i thought it was the my secondary amp that was causing the issue. I took the car to a great Audio shop and they said the On board Hyundai amp was sending weird signals. They said it was broken and i should have it replaced. I told them to disconnect the AMP from the car and leave it disconnected until i take the car back to Carmax.
I was hoping that was the cause ... it wasn't the lights keep flickering (at a far lower intensity probably due to the lower power consumption overall).
What could cause all of this. Alternator I had the alternator replaced two weeks ago (apparently it was broken). I changed 3 alternators in this car. Valve Gasket, Valve Gasket(they were retarded and didn't listen to what i told them) and broken.
2003 - Just recently my battery light started coming on and off on the dash, and occasionally my headlights would turn off and come back on. Now the ABS and BRAKE lights flash and the headlights are still on and off. I have already scraped (not cleaned) most of the corrosion off of the terminals on the battery and tightened the connections...
View 3 RepliesLast night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
For the past several months, I've noticed a gradually worsening flicker in my oil pressure indicator light. The light is off if I'm accelerating or downshifting for a pass or a hill climb, and it also goes off when I'm coasting or de-accelerating.
It's never steadily on, sometimes it's just barely visible, other times its flickering, fading, and brightening, but never at full brightness. It doesn't matter whether I'm at highway speed or at a slow speed, it's only a change in rpm that makes it go out.
I'm hoping, hoping, hoping that it's a problem with the pressure sensor, and not with the oil pump itself. Does the oil pump tend to fail gradually like that, it is it more indicative of a sensor problem? I'm hoping the latter, because replacing the pump is a major undertaking, one that I doubt I would do myself.
At idle, (600 RPMs, might need to bring it up?) the motor is Real rough, but doesn't stall out, just very "wobbly" Once the car is brought up to the 900-1000 RPM range everything flattens out, and at driving speeds it drives great! Pulled up to 90 mph on the high way, and passed a few cars on some back roads and everything ran great, until I hit idle.
It threw a code for the Cam Position Sensor after I tried to restart the car, and the person who work on this car before me had zip tied the connector into the sensor because he had broken it. Low and behold, you cant buy just the replacement part of the harness.
I tried to get the wires all plugged back in, and the CEL went away, but the idle was still pretty rough. Also, at idle, the oil light flickers just a bit.
I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
I have a 2007 Elantra and I have been having problems with the clock light flickering intermittently. I took it to Hyundai and they replaced the clock unit and that hasn't fixed the problem. They said they have checked all the fuses and there isn't a problem with the fuses. What the problem might be? It is very annoying when driving, especially at night.
View 2 RepliesHave a 2007 and everything was running fine all day today. Stopped at home for a few hours and went back out to run a few more errands and my truck started running poorly, dashboard lights were dimming, and the ESC OFF & ABS dummy lights came on as well as the red battery light. Managed to turn around and make it back home. Sounds like my battery needs replacing? Hopefully its just the battery and not the alternator.
View 22 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe. I was at a drive thru when my instrument cluster started to go nuts.. all of the lights came on then started flashing.. the RPM gauge was bumping around too.. for a couple seconds.. then it went away.. the next day I was on the way home and it started to do the same thing as the motor began to lose power while climbing a hill then the transmission couldn't figure out which gear it wanted to be in then I could press the gas all the way but nothing would happen.. the battery was completely dead. so I replaced the battery an about a week later it did the same thing. I had the alternator checked out but it was fine..
View 7 RepliesI have a 10 Santa Fe with the 3.5 - with 85,000kms -
Low and behold - with weekend my oil pressure sender circuit started leaking.
I actually tried to replace it myself - once I got the intake mani off I could not get any tools to work to remove it.....bummer.
Also - - - we have recently replaced the rear electronic clutch for the rear differential - - the seal went and fluid was leaking into the clutches - - - another warranty repair.
Today while the drivers door was open the interior lights started flickering and then all interior lights went off. Looked at the manual and do not see interior light fuse or relay. Also while looking at the manual, the lights flickered a few times and I could hear clicking behind the steering column. They lights never came back on. The interior "roller" switch is in the correct position, its also does not turn on the interior lights. I have also lubricated all the latches. What can I check or do to troubleshoot?
View 14 RepliesA week ago my brakes started squealing badly. This past weekend I pulled off the offending tire to take a look and sure enough the squeeler is riding on the rotor so it looks like I need to replace the brakes at 53,000km.
The rotors look good so I plan to only replace the front pads. While I am working on it, I am going to disassemble and preform the TSB on the rears as they have been neglected lately.
What pad material should I go for, metallic or ceramic? Ideally I would like something that has good performance, yet had a good life span. I occasionally pull a 2500lbs (dry weight) braked tent trailer, but that is not very often.
The screen that you see the temperature and see the the way that the AC is blowing started flickering for some time now . It's an electric problem ...I guess . Maybe the fuse is going bad ? -06 Azera ....
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2010 Santa Fe with 52,000 miles. The car looks great and runs fine once warmed up. Problem came after I got it home. I have found that it shifts rough when first started for about 5 miles. After that it runs great. From a quick search I have found 2 TSB's that may apply, 10-AT-006 and 11-AT-011-2.
View 36 RepliesI was driving today and at a traffic light a severe smell of burnt plastic filled the cabin and the A/C blower started to change speed than stayed at full blast and even if I'd turn the knob from side to side or tried to shut everything off with the ""OFF""button nothing would happen........so we drove home and at some point it shut itself off...tried it again and seems ok now.....every dealer closed today and leaving for the USA tomorrow morning.... What the problem could be?
View 5 RepliesHeadlights won't come on. They used to work but started flickering and quit working. (1993 Explorer).
View 5 Replies2008 hyundai santa fe. 106,000
Bought the car six months ago.Found out 2 weeks later we couldn't put gas in it. Dealership refused to fix it because we bought as is. So we managed to find one gas station in a 20 Mile radius that we could put gas in it.It takes around 10 minutes to put half a tank in. Shortly after that the gas gauge started to fluctuate from full to empty. And the check engine finally came on. Had the the check engine light checked.Fuel level sensor A was faulty. Took it to a local Goodyear in stead of the dealer ship. The sensors were 119.00 a piece and the labor was 145.00 to replace both. Had both replaced .Fuel gauge is working correctly now. But still having issue putting gas in car.
Looking for some info about the 4wd system.
My car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 and several times i've seen the 4wd warning light start flashing. It happens right when i start up the engine, however if I turn the engine off and on again, the light will be off the next time it starts up.
I'm just trying to figure out what kind of problems this warning light would indicate, in case it stays on sometime. I like to plan ahead my car repairs and know what's going on with it. The car has like 190K + miles so it's getting there.
Also I try to avoid the dealer, so I was also wondering if a typical scan tool that most mechanics have could read the codes, or if would need to be done by Hyundai specifically.