Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: No Response When Stepping On Gas - CEL Illuminated
Mar 1, 2012
My wife was driving to work this morning in her 08 Santa Fe (2.7) and said she had very little/no response when stepping on the gas.
Check engine, ESC off, and the AWD light (drivetrain light) were all illuminated.
She turned the car off and when she turned it back on, only the CEL remained illuminated - it drove better, but still rough.
AutoZone pulled the codes and we've got P1295, P2106, and P2135.
From what I've seen on this site, it sounds like the TPS - would those codes be consistent with that issue?
Also, since we're just out of warranty, is that something I can fix myself? Looks like a pretty easy part to replace ... but I've heard there's something about have to flash the ECM?
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I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
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Ok so first the battery light came on then all the other lights on the dash came on, ended up dying and we replaced the battery but the abs, esc break light and battery light still are on the dashboard. Also I can use the shift release to drive the car but other then that it is stuck in park. I was reading that the car has a atm but I don't know where its located.
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The other day, I had occasion to try to start my '08 Ltd, and there was no starter response to the key. Everything lit up and didn't dim when turning the key. Jiggled the key a few times, no change. Jiggled the shift lever a few times, no change. Turned the key a few more times, and it started. Yes, the vehicle was definitely in Park at the time.
This one has an automatic, so I'm assuming it was either a shift interlock switch (aka Neutral Safety Switch) or possibly the ignition switch itself, but as noted, neither responded to my ham handed approach to solving the problem. First time, it took about half a dozen start attempts. The second time, only three.
Haven't had the problem since then, but then again, I haven't been cycling the ignition as much as I was that day (probably 20 start stop cycles). Now I'm just wondering where and when it will bite me again. Some of the places I take this vehicle to the boonies in the Rocky Mountains would cost me dearly in tow charges.
Encountered this on an earlier CM model? I don't recall ever seeing this mentioned here over the years.
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Driving on the motorway yesterday, all fine until i lost power..engine light came on, but I was able to continue driving for about 6 miles (trying to get to services) but eventually it would go no further, pulled over and found that the intercooler pipe had come off, replaced it but still no joy.
Recovery van attended and plugged in diagnostic and found a dpf fault and gas pressure valve fault, he cleared the light but i think the faults still remained.. so i had to be recovered home.
The engine will start but it does not quiet sound right, no response from the throttle and if i put it into drive the engine stops.. Its a 2007 2.2
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My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
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Isn't the park gear selector indicators suppose to me illuminated when you turn on the lights, mine aren't. Why?? stick shift between seats on floor.
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Santa Fe 56 2.2 Diesel ... I am suddenly experiencing the engine management light symbol being illuminated and have severe lack of power I am wondering whether it is Mass air sensor ? blocked fuel filter? or blocked exhaust?
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I have a 2010 Lexus LS460-L. It is a nightmare. I can drive it 100 miles or sometimes 800 miles, and then when I am stepping on the brake, all the brake lights come on and the brakes catch and release like a wave motion at speeds under 15 mph until the computer gets reset by the service department, and it is good for another 4-6 weeks, when it reoccurs.
I have had it in to Toyota 5 times. Computer diagnostics fails to find the problem. I have paid to replace the master brake control module (ECU) and the stroke sensor. I had it in to the Lexus dealer in Kansas City, and they said that their diagnostics failed to find the problem, and the "only thing they could think of" is to replace the wiring harness and of course they don't recommend spending that much money on it. I was skeptical, so I took it to the same dealer's other location, and the service man there told me that their diagnostic tests are "pointing to the wiring harness".
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I have had my 07 now for a few months. The other day during a trip, I noticed my TPMS light began to blink, and then stayed constantly on. I checked my pressures at the end of the day and they were all right where they should be, including the spare. When I start the car, the TPMS light will blink for some time, and then it will go steady and stay illuminated.
Took the car to a tire shop and they hooked the tpms scan tool up to the car and told me I had a bad sensor. I did some reading online today and it seems like a lot of people say the sensors that come from the factory for these cars only last for about 5 years until the internal battery dies.
For what it costs to get one sensor replaced, knowing that the car is 5 years old and the other 3 sensors are prone to fail, I see some people are making little PVC canisters and putting all 4 sensors in the canister and pressurizing it to make the light go away. But my sensors are broke, and if I bought new ones I do not have a tool to program them.
Is there anything that can be unplugged, or a wire that can be cut or grounded to make this stupid, pointless light go away or am I pretty much at the mercy of the tire shop/dealer to replace the sensor and make the light go away?
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I have a new to me 07 MDX with 82k miles. Exactly at 1 mile over the 30day/1200 mile used car warranty the Check Engine Light illuminated along. The NAV screen showed an emissions code P0401. I really don't notice any symptoms in running at all. Anyway a few drives (on/off) and it turns off for four days. It happened again with same code. Again few drives it went off. It seems to happen when driving easy. It gets great MPG in mixed driving on average (20MPG) which is far better than its rating. Should I wait till it stays on steady before I address this?
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My 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
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2007 F350 6.0L 230,000 miles
Yesterday, while driving home from a weekend out of town trip, all of sudden lost throttle control. Just went to idle while at cruise speeds, could pump pedal and no response. Then got pedal control back and seemed to run normally.
This happened several times. Hubby suggested moving the adjustable pedal which I did slightly. Although I was not using the cruise control, we had a sense that maybe it was engaging??? So I hit the off button a couple of times. After these two interventions, drove the last 80 miles home with no further incidents.
Today, we checked codes and had a PO231, Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. I don't think that is our problem with above based on research, but we will look into fixing that too. We are thinking TPS or a position sensor on the accelerator pedal. We could replace those easily ourselves.
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What this could be? Doesn't happen every time but when you start the car I can hear something like "pssh psssh pssh psssssssssss...." below the car like some hose has a hole in it or disconnected etc.. but it comes from under/back of the car... fuel lines? fuel pump? No CEL or anything, car drives. Normally... mpg is good...
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My 04 V6 began to stutter when stepping on the gas today, after running fine for about an hour. It was all of a sudden like driving on a rumble strip. When stopped, the idle was totally erratic and the car barely ran. I called the dealer and they indicated that the coils have been recalled ( received an email on this, this past week) and said to tow it in...not drive it in. These are the exact symptoms of the coils going bad. Its in being fixed today...under the recall. This came on so fast it was amazing. Just thought I would warn everyone to have it taken care of now as they said if you drive it too long, it would be pumping gas into the exhaust system....then BOOM.
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Yesterday, my 2002 Elantra started to rev ferociously (I was turning a corner in 1st gear), so I put it in neutral, and the engine calmed down. I shifted back to 1st, then 2nd, and the engine started to rev up again without me stepping on the gas. I pulled over and stopped the car. After 10 minutes, I started the car and put it in neutral. The engine idled normally, then started revving up again - really fast - all by itself! I left the car overnight and this morning, put WD-40 on the accelerator cable and today it drove fine, so far.
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord (LX SEDAN 4 DOOR, 4 CYL). Am a bit paranoid after reading online about all the transmission problems people have with this car. The other day when I was starting up from the stop light it had a moment where I was stepping on the gas and it felt like I was in neutral-- not going anywhere. This is the only time it happened and it was only for a few seconds.
Wondering if you think this is the sign of an impending transmission failure or whether it just needs some kind of maintenance?
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For the last several days, every morning when I stepped on the brake the first time in the morning, there was a "ka-luck" sound. Then throughout the day, the brake had no such sound and behaved normally. Is the "ka-luck" sound normal and why it happens? Winter/Rain?
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Passat Front End Noises? Loud "crack" noise when stepping on gas after hard braking....I thought...control arms gone again (replace em @ 55K miles)...so I replaced all the control arms... NOISE LESS but still there! I've replaced motor mounts and just checked them..no leaks, so engine shifting cant be it... I replaced the "stretch torqued" subframe bolts when I did lower rear control arms..so they're tight...What can it be??
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My son just bought a 09 Corolla LE and he gets this clicking noise every time the brakes are applied. The clicking noise comes from the Shifter.
I know that about the Shift Lock Solenoid, but this clicking sound is loud. I have been told that this is normal. So, I thought if this is what 10th Gen owners here is experiencing the same.
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I get a clunk noise when stepping on and releasing the brakes occasionally but not always. This occurs even with the engine off and the vehicle stationary. I also hear some other noise like some sort of vacuum servo thing is happening.
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