Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Nasty Noise Starts Around 10 Minutes Of Driving
Feb 25, 2015
07 That has 138K miles. The noise starts around 10 minutes of driving. Th engine sounds like a diesel engine. The noise has lasted 5 to 10 minutes. Then shut it off and it won't return til the next morning...Same thing. THIS DOES NOT SEEM TO OCCUR on start-up. It has to run for about 10 minutes (moving) or so. Changed out the water pump. The noise is coming from near or behind the water pump.
My mechanic is stumped but he pretty much thinks it's coming from behind the water pump. That leads me to believe it's the timing chains/tensioner's etc. But the time it starts up is throwing me off. When it is cold I think I can hear a little clacking that shuts off quickly after oil pressure gets going but it's not really the same sound that were are hearing when moving and the crazy sound starts and it is LOUD!
We were thinking it was the timing belt tensioner however, it is not behaving like it should.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS AWD that has a rear driver side tire problem. It starts after roughly 10 minutes of driving as a slight squeal. It starts at around 20mph and will quit when I reach 40mph. The longer I drive, the louder it gets to a point where it is almost constant between 20-40mph. It stops when I apply the brakes or when I turn slightly to the left or right. Also, if I stop and turn the car off it takes 5-10 minutes for the squealing to start again. There is a smell of hot metal and sweet smell coming from the area.
I had the rear brakes and rotors replaced 12,000 miles ago, and them checked at my local Hyundai dealer when I first noticed the squeal and the mechanic said the brakes and rotors in the rear did not need replacing. What it could be?
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My car will start the first time just fine but if I turn it off it won't start anymore it won't even attempt to crank ...
It does have a nasty grind noise before it starts tho idk if that could be related to it or not ...
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Our santa fe 2008 diesel randomly stalls. Most of the time the stall happens after at least 15mins of driving but I am not sure if its just a coincidence. It only happens when the car is stopped. When it happens, i put the car in park, turn off AC, then turn the car back on. It starts right up but is a bit rumbling like it will stall again. When i press the accelerator there is no response.
If I turn on the AC or turn the wheels, it dies. If i put it in drive or reverse it also dies. That happens around 3-5 times, then after that, everything is good again. Accelerator responds normally, car doesn't stall. Its driving me crazy! Whats worse is sometimes it doesn't occur for 1month! Then all of a sudden it stalls again. Bought the car 2nd hand and since january it died around 8-10 times.
I brought it to a reputable mechanic and they checked the fuel system. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel sensor. They even tried a different pump and sanction valve and it still didn't fix it. They kinda concluded that its not in the fuel system already, but they are at a loss. Its very hard to trigger since we don't know what really causes the stalling. All we know is that it only occurred when the car is stopped.
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When I drive my 2010 santa fe. I get a noise that sounds like i have a flat tire in the back. It is intermittent and starts at any speeds. But when you stop the vehicle and start again the noise is gone. The mechanics at Hyundai replace replace a part for the all wheel drive but that did not fix the problem.
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Over the past couple months my car (187k miles on it) shuts off while I'm driving it, about once a week, sometimes less. It only seems to happen while driving 30 mph or less and starts back up after 5-10 min. I'm trying to sell it now and don't know how to explain what is going on with the car w/o putting someone off completely. I'm sure it's fixable, I just don't want to deal w/it anymore and need a larger vehicle.
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I'm not sure whats wrong here but i think its a plugged exhaust or clogged catalytic converter but whats happening is when I drive my car is lacking power huge, sometimes ill push on the gas and it will hardly move and start chugging but if i push down more it will go. When i go on on ramps to the highway as soon as i hit 70km it starts to chug then i have to push the pedal to the floor to get going,then after a while the car will start to shake after 5-10 minutes of driving and i have to let it cool down or it will keep shaking or just go back onto city roads and it doesnt shake as bad. Once im off the highway my car will begin to shake more at 20km and 60km i have no clue why!
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117,000+ mi. on my '07 Camry LE and it's started locking itself two to three minutes after I've just unlocked it with the keyless remote.
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My truck starts and runs fine cold. after 10 minutes or so of driving, it starts choking and stalls. If you try to start it, it will not. If you wait about 3 minutes, it is fine, starts , and drives ok, for about 3 minutes. I have replaced, plugs, fuel filter, battery, and a ignition module, as well as cleaned the opening of the throttle body
Ford has ordered a fuel pump, I am thinking it could be the
-Throttle position Sensor?
-MAF sensor?
-fuel pump?
It puts out code p0191 for low fuel pressure. Ford is scheduled to install new pump in am, but I don't want to spend a grand if it is just the TPS or MAf?
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I bought a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe with 30k miles about 3 weeks ago. It is the 2.4 Cyl, non AWD version.
I noticed this noise while driving from ~0-20 MPH. A light whining, strained noise from the front end.
I brought it to my Hyundai dealership and they took a ride with me, and acknowledged they noticed a noise too. They changed power steering fluid once. Still heard the noise, so brought it back for 2nd time, they changed power steering reservoir, still heard the noise and brought it back for a 3rd time.
They now say there is nothing wrong with the car. Between 2nd and 3rd time, when pre heating my car on a couple of cold days, I noticed there's an even worse noise while parked in the drive way. I told them about this. Is this noise normal?
Here is a video : IMG 0662 - YouTube
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The other day, I was driving along doing about 40. It was a nasty hit and my alignment is now shot to where i have to keep the wheel turned left a couple inches to track straight. Local dealer says 170 for AWD alignment. I haven't even checked the tire for bubbles!
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I just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
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I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
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I bought a used 2007 Santa Fe about 4 months ago. 45k miles. The TPMS work nice. I had a tire start getting low and it told me which one.
But every once in a while the other light, just the TPMS light comes on for a couple minutes and then goes off. The manual says if this light comes on than something with TPMS is malfunctioning. But it doesn't stay on constantly.
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My wife's car is throwing at p0306 code. I have changed the park plugs and the check engine lights comes on after 5-10 minute of driving and gives the same code. Can I move the spark plug wire to another ignition coil bank to test the coil? The picture shows the current plug locations on the ignition pack. Is there any certain order they need to be in or can I just swap 6 and 5 since they are the closest together?
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I have Hyundai Santa Fe, 2009 (automatic). when I start engine in the morning everything is fine except the reverse gear. the reverse gear moves to position easily but the car does not move. After 5 minutes of starting engine, the reverse gear works again.
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I have year 2011 santa fe, while mileage after 7000km, i have problem in air-cond, when i returned to my car within 3 minute to 5 minutes and start engine i can smell some source of chemical smell from air-cond for 3 second, why ? if i started engine after an hour then there is no smell, why ?
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When first starting a 2012 Sante Fe GLS with standard AC each morning, the vents blow warm for up to 3-5 minutes and therafter are fine. Additional starts for the remainder of the day seem fine. We live in a hot climate, but our 2011 Sonata, which is parked in the same garage, does not have this problem. No unusual soundsor lack of air circulation, and after 5 minutes it spontaneously starts to blow cool air. Problem began 2 months after purchase.
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I have a '06 santa fe 3.5L My "TCS OFF" light "ABS" light turn on and my "4WD" light starts to blink while I am driving. Also my Transmission shifts hard and the engine revs funny (hard to describe what it actually sounds and feels like) when the automatic transmission shifts from 2nd gear to 3rd gear. It shifts find from 3rd to 4th and down shifts from 3rd to 2nd just fine. Just have problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd and it only seem to happen when the lights I mentioned above turn on. What going on? Is this all being caused by a speed sensor? My ABS also seem a little touchy activating when road conditions are not that bad.
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I've been experiencing ENGINE RPM FLUCTUATION on cold starts. I took it into the dealer and they found an update available for the ECU and reprogrammed the ECU.
2009 Santa Fe ?
So far it appears to have corrected the RPM Fluctuation on a cold start... I see TSB 10-FL-010 cover this but also suggests to replace the Throttle Position Sensor which wasn't done on my vehicle.
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Just had my original transmission replaced at 96000km. My new transmission has a quirk that happens from time to time when you start the vehicle there is a "thud". It varies from small to loud and only happens the second the engine starts. I have noted that it is worse when the car is parked on a hill and the parking brake is engaged before the car is put in park. My only idea is a problem the the parking mechanism or pawl as its called. The dealer won't even admit there is a problem. I've never had worse dealer service with any automaker.
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