Have a 2012 Santa Fe, I originally bought brand new off the lot and now Ive noticed moisture in the brake light. Is something of this nature typically covered under warranty?
View 4 RepliesI just noticed on another post ( the guy with the long list from his 2010 ) that he had moisture in the drivers side tail light, I have the same thing.
View 7 Replies1.4 yrs in, 35,000 km driven... now noticing moisture build up in my drivers side fog light lens. Called the dealership and made an appointment to have it, along with an annoying rattle sounds looked after - and when I asked the question 'would this be covered under warranty", she said - it depends.
Well... why? It either is or isn't... and what came from it?
I have a Santa Fe 2001 and I towed a trailer today. It was fine at first but when we were trying to position the trailer at the destination the brake light fuse blew which meant the gear stick would not move. Figured out how to start the car again and used the shift lock release to move into drive to get the car off the road. I had to keep pushing that shift lock release button in to change the gears. I had the RACV guy come and change the blown fuse for me, and brake lights are fine now and the car starts, however the gear stick is still playing up. It went ok from park to drive, but then on the way back to park it got stuck at Neutral. Then had to use release again. Checked the fuse and brake lights, all is good there. What could be causing the gear stick to get stuck now? RACV guy couldn't understand why, he said replacing the fuse usually solves the problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L v6 and the right brake light doesn't work all the time. When the vehicle is parked ignition on motor off the light works. Yet when driving I have been told my right brake light is out. I read that the turn signal switch assembly could be the problem.
View 4 RepliesI have to press Cancel before I can get my cruise control to work. I had a problem about a year ago where my cruise control wasn't working, and found out that a blown brake light fuse was the problem. Now I turn my CC on and the "Cruise" light comes on, I then press the set button, and nothing. I then press the cancel button and then the set button and then the "Set" light comes on.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2011 santer fe auto with a foot hand brake. i park the car on my drive which is on a slight incline, when i put it in reverse and then release the hand brake there is a crunching sound and the rear offside wheel locks. It eventually releases after a number of revolutions but it sounds very mechanical clunky.
View 5 RepliesWife came home and said that her brake peddle went to the floor once. Truck is in the garage with a large leak of brake fluid on the ground. I ordered a new MC but not sure this is the issue. There is fluid on only the right side of the booster, all associated brake hoses and lines going into the ABS module. The module also has lots of brake fluid all over it. Looks like there has been a leak for a while. Only one flare nut coming from the MC was some what loose (I gave it about a quarter turn and it's tight now.
Booster has some rust on the front of it near the center of the MC bolt locations. Before I put this new MC on I want to be sure this is the issue. Do the ABS modules tend to leak OUT when they are failing? I see that's a common issue with the Hyundai but I don't see anything about fluid leaks externally.
The truck has about 180k miles on it. I was thinking of cleaning everything up the best I can adding some fluid and running it to see where the leak is coming from...
My son was hearing a bit of a squeaking on the passenger side. So I decided after some time to pull the front wheel. (most important brake). Well the pad wasn't moving on the outer guides (serviced it as required and lubed to get it moving). But the lower guide pin wouldn't move in/out. Needed to drift it out and it was very well rusted end to end. I put new pads on early as year I am sure and all was fine. I cleaned the pin on my wire wheel grinder. That lower pin had a collar near then end. Turns out its rubber, I thought it was a metal spring collar. Oh well the wire wheel did a number on it. I don't know the significant of that piece nor whether the pin is in the right place since the top one is different. I do these one at a time so its almost impossible I swapped them in the number of times they've been out.
I never seen so much tightening on any vehicle of pads and pins rusting in as on this vehicle. One has to wonder why. My vehicle also seems to have or what sound like a gear slap upon engaging in reverse or forward from front and back which is most notable after sitting and first engaged. Not every time but this is built in 2007 and there is a TSB for some washers. Hyundai Canada does NOT use the same TSB number they have their own. I talked to a dealer about it but he never indicated it would be the cause only its a different number. I am not impressed in this AWD drive power train. It needs a lot of TLC and the slap I hear is typically due to power train engagement play/slack being excessive most likely due to wear somewhere.. Even my rear sound off not a howl but noisy running which doesn't change with road surfaces so its not the tires. Maybe the AWD bearing or unit going. No of this should even remotely close to needed anything for at least another 100-150k at least.
I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
I went to adjust my Santa Fe's parking brake (pedal version) and am trying to troubleshoot. The pedal goes all the way to the floor, something like 11+ clicks....
I jacked up the rear end, pulled the tires off, rotated the drum so that I could access the adjusting nut and used a flat head screwdriver to rotate it all the way back to where it wouldn't rotate anymore. After that I clicked it ~5-7 clicks. Same process on each side.
Went to go test the pedal, still goes to the floor, same number of clicks, etc.
Tried to locate an adjusting nut for the pedal but cannot find one, if one exists. The fuse box sits perfectly in the way but I was able to view everything with a little bit of effort and still couldn't locate the mythical adjusting nut.
I know I did the adjustment on the rear brakes correctly so it's an issue with the pedal/cable/nut.
I have a 2010 Santa Fe w/ ~25,000km. Yesterday, I noticed that after depressing the brake pedal (while driving) i hear a wheezing noise and then a click right before i come to a complete stop. When i am stationary, and i depress the break pedal, i hear the clicking noise but no wheezing sound.
I just took it into service today and even drove around the lot with one of the service techs and he says its normal. That the clicking noise is coming from the shifter release. I don't believe i heard this sound when i bought it, nor any other time till yesterday. The sound is driving me crazy! This cant be normal .... can it?
First time towing a twin axle caravan with the Santa fe. towed 250 miles without any problems but on the final long uphill stretch the esp light came on. When the engine is stopped and re-started it goes out but comes back on within a mile. Also when the caravan is plugged into the electrical socket the indicators flash at normal speed but unplug it and they flash very quickly. I have read a lot on the foot brake switch being a problem and sometimes it causes the esp light to come on.
View 2 RepliesMy front passenger headlight seems to go out after starting and driving for a little. I just replaced the bulbs a few weeks ago and it just happened again. I did notice that the one headlight does flicker after turning on. After looking at the headlight it does appear that some moisture had gotten inside the housing. I don't want to take apart the headlight and reseal it and still have the same problem. Does the ballest need to be replaced also or does something have to be cleaned?
View 1 RepliesWhen I release the brake pedal too fast, the brake pedal bounces back with sound which is a little bit loud to me. I feel the sound is from the spring if there's one. It's annoying so I have to remove my foot from the brake very slowly. Is it normal?
View 20 RepliesThis happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
View 17 RepliesI have a 2004 Santa Fe with the 2.7L V6. There is a recurring issue where the ABS and Emergency Brake light come on, followed by the fuel gauge dropping to E, then all lights dimming until they go out. The car continues to run, but if you shut it off it won't start for about 30 minutes, then it start just fine with full power. The alternator and battery have been replaced twice in the last 10 months, most recently 3 days ago. The problem persists. I did find the right downstream O2 sensor to have broken wires which were causing a short. I replaced the O2 sensor and wiring harness, which cleared all engine codes, however the problem does still exist.
View 7 RepliesIt was discovered last night that the third brake light (or Center High Mounted Stop Lamp/CHMSL) on our SF flashes a few times before going solid when I brake. I did a little searching and it seems that it is not legal in TX, so I guess I get to put in a call to the dealer today.
From what the interwebs say, it seems to be something dealers do as an added "safety feature" (and I even found research that shows it does get attention better than solid lights). There's a lot out there about people wanting to install this feature, and there are companies that do this for you. But I've never seen it on the road myself, and to be honest, it's kind of annoying. And the TX code is not the clearest, but I think it's saying "no flashing lights unless you're a bus."
Here's what I found from the TX transportation code:
(c) A person may not operate a motor vehicle equipped with a red, white, or blue beacon, flashing, or alternating light unless the equipment is:
(1) used as specifically authorized by this chapter; or
(2) a running lamp, headlamp, taillamp, backup lamp, or turn signal lamp that is used as authorized by law.
(d) A vehicle may be equipped with alternately flashing lighting equipment described by Section 547.701 or 547.702 only if the vehicle is:
(1) a school bus;
(2) an authorized emergency vehicle;
(3) a church bus that has the words "church bus" printed on the front and rear of the bus so as to be clearly discernible to other vehicle operators;
(4) a tow truck while under the direction of a law enforcement officer at the scene of an accident or while hooking up to a disabled vehicle on a roadway; or
(5) a tow truck with a mounted light bar which has turn signals and stop lamps in addition to those required by Sections 547.322, 547.323, and 547.324, Transportation Code.
My mother-in-law moved my car and put the emergency brake on (2010 Santa Fe) when she got out. When I got into drive home, I drove about 10miles with it engaged (for some reason the light didn't indicate it was on). When I got home I noticed a burnt rubber smell from the left rear tire. (no smoke though)
Our driveaway is an incline. After engaging/disengaging the e-brake, the light started coming back on again. If I put the car in neutral and release the regular brakes, it will quickly roll back. If I put the e-brake on in netural and disengage the regular brake, it still holds fine on the hill.
I know the damage can vary, but any test or check I can do to determine the amount of damage?
Last week while I was on vacation I had the battery light and brake light on the dash both come on at the same time. Just as these came on I was driving through some water on the road from a heavy storm that had happened earlier in the day. As I drove through, the lights came on at the same time and I lost power steering as well, after about 15 - 30 seconds both lights went off and everything was normal. It happened again later that day as well, same scenario, driving through some water, both lights came on, and no power steering. The lights once again went out after a short period, 15 seconds or so. What might be causing this? I was thinking maybe the alternator is going bad but I have not seen any other issues, lights dimming or things like that.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 with about 94000 miles.
This may be related to some posts I've studied but I'm still at a loss. My wife observed moisture inside one of the tail lights on her 2006 RX330. Upon further inspection, I noticed water standing in the lower section inside the outer cover over an inch high. After reviewing all of the posts about bugs in them, moisture in them, how to remove them, and whether the outside cover can be removed, I pulled it out looking for any cracks, etc to figure out how that much water is getting in since it hasn't been wet in over a week at least and no downpours, major things like a car wash...nothing. I'm still at a loss. I know that I could rotate it carefully 360 degrees without water escaping which meant the out cover was still sealed pretty good. I then rotated it to flat and the water poured out thru the electrical circuit board/bulb area. Could this be related to the same cause behind the headlight pseudo recall/replacement? Which way to go as I can find no signs of how the water got there.
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