Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Low Idle Jerking And Feels Like Engine Is Going To Choke
Dec 5, 2013
While the car is at a full stop it idles at 500 rpm. I am assuming this is normal. But randomly the accelerator dips and the entire car jerks and feels like the engine is going to choke.
This started happening when the vehicle was at 10K miles and I took it to the dealer but the problem did not repeat itself there. They said they ran all sorts of diagnostics and came up with nothing. At this time the problem would occur may be a few times a week, while waiting at a red light, etc.
Now the vehicle is a 30K miles and it is happening more frequently. Several times a day.
I recorded a video of it to better explain the problem.
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My wife was complaining of the ESC light came on and off. Rough idle. Also has a check engine lite.
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2007 Santa Fe 3.5 ... All of a sudden today the engine is vacillating and at idle shuts off. I have to keep my left foot on the brake pedal and the other on the right to keep it running without lurching forward. Does this sound like the throttle body?
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i have a 2014 Santa Fe 2.0t awd. When I first bought it it was getting 320-340 miles a tank after having it for 6 months now we are down to 250-260. The engine feels sluggish, however no codes, no change in driving habits.
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I have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
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I recently bought a 92 Celica gt (5s-fe). The engine feels like its misfiring and wont idle on its own.
I've done all the normal maintenance to it and the spark plugs all show normal signs of wear. I haven't verified fuel and spark yet. Check out the video below. The piece of cardboard is to keep the throttle partially open. Also, the exhaust is broken off at the flex pipe so excuse the awesome sound ...
[URL] ....
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When I start the engine it works fine while the motor is cold (idle normal all smooth). When the engine the temperature reach normal operating range the car loose power and idle drops to 350-500 rpm and if i am driving I can not go over 40mi/h. I drive a 2008 Sta Fe now with 96000 KM (~~60000 miles). A month ago the engine start shaking severely and knocking noise (like some spark plugs where not working), from this to now:
Changed all sparks plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Now this situation looks more related to temperature of the engine.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe 2,2 CRDi that recently started to behave bad. When cold it starts but runs only for a few seconds before it dies. The engine seems to shut off without any notice. I am able to start the car again straight away, but the same thing happens.
If I try to push the throttle I might be able to keep it running for a longer while, and it seems to improve as the engine gets warmer, but it still dies after a while. (Some minutes.) When running, the engine feels kind of rough (hard) and not a smooth as its supposed to be.
I have cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced all the injectors. I also checked the diesel filter for water and flow, but didn't replaced as it was changed this summer.
The car is a no runner as it is now, since the uncontrolled shutdown of the engine makes it danger to use in the traffic.
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Trying to find any information on what's happening with my 2008 2.2 Diesel Santa Fe ... Been driving fine until I pulled up at a set of traffic lights yesterday and started hearing a loud rattle- knocking coming from the engine at idle.
Put it in gear and drove and it goes away. When at idle if you rev the car it goes away.
Mechanic seems to think it could be clutch as it vibrates the gearbox, but sound seems to be more prominent around the engine, my thoughts were maybe a loose timing tensioner.
Clutch replacement is very expensive.
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I used to wonder if my engine was running when stopped at a light and marvel at the smooth ride of my 2008 LS460L.
Lately I have been feeling a rough idle when stopped and the ride feels jittery on smooth roads.The odd thing is the car idles smoother with the air conditioner running or when it is off. It is very noticeable when off and seems to be apparent when the car is fully warmed up .
The jittery road thing occurs both when the air is on and off. I bought the car CPO and it had the valve recall work performed (saw that was one possible cause).
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My truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.
Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.
Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI
No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.
336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.
Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.
Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.
Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?
Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?
Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.
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I bought a new Holley 600 CFM 4150 with electric choke for my 79 ford F 250 with 400 engine. If I start the truck cold the choke works as it should and after driving 10 or so minutes it runs fine off choke. When I restart the truck after stopping for gas or food it goes back on high idle even with the engine temp at 180 degrees. Should it go on high idle even on a hot day fully warmed up every time i start it? I don't remember my last 600 doing it.
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Vehicle: 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD ... Oil light coming on when braking hard.
Anyway, my problem was my oil light coming on at idle. Initially, it happened to my wife and she called me about it, and I attributed it to the cold weather and thick oil maybe not pumping properly when the vehicle was cold. After driving it myself, I realized this only seems to happen AFTER the vehicle has warmed up to operating temps. Took it to the dealership, they told me it was a bad oil pressure switch, put in a new one and off I went. (Note: oil was also changed at the dealership when they put in the new oil pressure switch)
Here I am two days later with the same problem. Just about to work this morning and sure enough, the oil light came on again while stopped at a stoplight.
Attached a picture below of my dash...the light flickers and comes on when the idle drops. I've never taken notice before, but what is the actual idle speed of the 3.5L? When the light is on, mine is about 500 rpm...
Also, for those of you with a keen eye, note the distance travelled (238 kms) on my current tank of fuel. Cold weather + all short trips within city limits does not make for a happy Santa Fe.
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As the weather is getting colder I noticing again my RPM's taking longer to drop down to 1200 or less. Upon startup the engine rev's to 2000 and drops in 2 sec quickly to around 1500 (all these are based on the crude gauge readings, not a digital tach).
I don't like high RPM cold starts in the first place and why its stays just around 1500 and lower for about 2 minutes before it lowers to around 1200RPM. I don't like engaging the transmission at those high RPM's. My other vehicles did nothing like this and the increased start RPM was down 1000 within a minute.
What sensor is having the computer run it like that and not let it drop faster. I doubt its the O2 sensor since its the same on a hot day just doesn't rev up to 2k but 1500 or so. Jabs at the gas pedal doesn't work it drop any sooner either.
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I have a 2007 SF 2.7L V6 with 55000km.
Recently we have noticed that from a cold start the engine idles roughly few a short time and especially bad if put into gear only moments after starting.
Do we need to let it warm up for longer?
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2009 Santa Fe only 40500 miles ... Should I Be concerned about the noise it has done this since I bought it in 2010 ...
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I have a 2007 2.7-liter Santa Fe with 71,000 miles. I experience intermittent rough idle and rough low speed driving. It seems that in town driving will trigger these conditions. And when it's warmer outside that oppose to colder temperatures.
In most cases I can turn the car off, and after 2-5 minutes, start it right back up and the problem with go away.
The OBD codes are P0276 and P0306.
I have replaced the coil and injector on #6 cylinder.
The #6 spark plug is dry when the problem occurs.
I had the dealer update the ECM software
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Just talked to a good friend with a 2008 limited, V6. While his wife was driving the throttle went full, then back to idle, then full while her foot was off the pedal. She put it in neutral got to the side of the road and turned it off. She just had towed to the nearest dealer. She said the dealer suspects the Throttle Position Sensor....seems to be a common problem for Hyundai, based on other issues seen on this forum with some losing power, etc. Surprised there isn't more information from Hyundai as the TPS seems to be a weak point.
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I have a 2008 Santa fe with 68000 km, very high gas consumption. i checked the car computer.
1 - System too lean at idle (b1)
2 - System too lean at idle (b2)
The mechanic advice me to make some replacement and maintenance
1- Spark Plug Replacement
2- Change Fuel filter
3- change air filter
4- Injector cleaning
I have changed the spark plugs, still having high gas consumption.
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First indication, I had fuel gauge issues showing empty when def had plenty of gas. next idled very rough at low speed. Auto Zone read and gave me p0300, p0464, p0302, and p0304. I need new throttle body injector. I would be happy to buy and install but any input before I do? Should I have it looked at? could be more?
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Has about 65k miles on it and has regular maintenance and tune ups when needed. It is cared for. The last tune up was about 2k miles ago. Spark plug change, oil change, filters, etc.
I have noticed lately that when the car is moving at idle speeds, it will surge about 200 rpms. It does not happen when the breaks are on or stopped or in park, or moving at higher speeds. It only does it while moving and with no acceleration. It happens in Drive and Reverse.
I live in the city of Lima Peru so a 4x4 is useful but it also requires some tight parking but when it starts to surge, it is a huge pain.
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