Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Low Oil At Start In Cold Temp
Feb 17, 2016
When its under ca -5degrece my oil lamp lighten up ca 8 sek. My oil pressure at warm motor is 3.3 bar, what is wrong...
View 2 RepliesWhen its under ca -5degrece my oil lamp lighten up ca 8 sek. My oil pressure at warm motor is 3.3 bar, what is wrong...
View 2 RepliesThe vehicle has 80,000kms, and from a cold start it is having this problem more and more frequently. I must crank the engine 3+ times, and then she starts. A prolonged cranking period doesn't seem to work, and this only occurs when cold. The car starts fine when warmed up. I have scanned the car with a generic OBD2 reader and there are no codes. Once the car is running, it runs great with no misfires.
View 1 RepliesQuestion about the oil light. On a cold start the oil pressure light goes out immediately.
After driving around for a while (engine warmed up) and shutting off the engine for anywhere between 45 to 60 minutes or so and then starting the engine again, the oil light will go out immediately, but then SOMETIMES, pop back on, MAYBE flicker, then stay off. This all takes place in less than a second, almost a microsecond. This is all very intermittent too, No rhyme or reason as to temp or time between starts. Engine is very quiet, except for a COLD start (over night). I use 5-20 and it makes no difference whether using conventional or synthetic.
I change my own oil, but dealer did it once and I still get the same issue. I suspect the sending unit, or is this 'normal'?
07 Santa Fe 3.3 with 155k miles has lifter noise all the time. Much more pronounced in cold weather upon start up when the engine is cold. These miles are mostly highway and I change oil every 5-6k with Citgo synthetic blend. Is this just normal wear or could the engine be getting gummed up? I was thinking about treating the engine with some Marvel or Rislone but I really don't like putting solvents in my crankcase.
View 3 RepliesIt's my 2005, 2.7l. auto trans, FWD.
AC stops blowing cold when the engine temp get hot. As long as the car is moving, it blows nice and cold. Also, when sitting the engine temp rises quickly and will over heat if you don't get moving.
Cooler fan on the inside of the radiator never kicks over to high mode as the temp goes up. I checked the fuses and the relay and both are good.
That leaves me with a bad fan? Correct? Also, what is the part number of the fan?
Had a buzzing on my dual control and temp panel. Buzzing finally stopped, and now I have no control over temp on passenger side. It blow cool air regardless of the temp I put or taking it off of dual. Doesn't matter, it just blows cool air. I can have it set off dual at a high temp, driver side will be hot, passenger side will be cool. What broke?(blend door?)
View 3 RepliesI find that my 2010 V6 is always cold in the winter. I always need to turn the temperature control to the highest, but there is still not enough heat. This morning, it was -11c outside. After I drove 10 KM (about 20 minutes) , inside the car is still very cold. My feet were frozen. The air from the vent is only warm, not hot. I also find that this car takes longer to warm up. The temperature gauge won't start to move until I drive about 2.5KM.
View 5 RepliesHave a 2007 Avalon, original owner. For past 3 winters, when temp is 10F or less, there is a loud clicking sound when the car turns left from a stop. The frequency of the clicking sound increases as the car accelerates. Once the car makes the turn, the sound stops. In extremely cold weather (0F or less) the noise happens when turning right, but less intense. The clicking usually goes away after driving several miles and will return after sitting outside overnight or for 4 or 5 hours if the temp is below 10F. Dealer claims all of the CV joints are good. I drove it with a tech this morning and it was clearly present.
View 6 RepliesOn my way home from work I noticed that my heater was blowing cold air. then I checked my gauges and noticed that the temp gauge was moving toward hot. pulled over on side of road car died on me. Husband pulled car home replaced top water hose. Now my car will not start.
View 10 Replies1996 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 L engine. When the outside temp is a good range (50 degrees F & above) there is no problem starting. But when it gets below 40 deg. F and really chilly outside temp, I still have strong battery power, but when I switch on the ignition, I don't hear the normal fuel pump activation swirl sound and does not crank - simply silent click. Then I can wait when the outside temp improves and cranks up no problem.
View 6 Replies02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
View 6 RepliesBought 2009 santa fe new [3.3]. after cold start up tac is moving up and down and it seems to be missing. After temp is reached tac is steady but there still seem to be a hesitation when driving. 21,000 miles on vehicle. could it be a bad tbs?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2010 Santa Fe. All seems fine except that when the car is cold it goes into R harshly (with a bump and a small delay)and also is a little bit irregular in normal gear. I'm used to have cars with transmission problems unfortunately and happily it's nothing like that but I'd really finally like to have a vehicle without any tranny issues.
View 3 RepliesMy car is an 08 AWD 3.3 I am noticing the engine will do a slight rev up, down, up, down when cold almost daily when I leave work in the afternoons.
I removed the airbox and intake tubing, cleaned the throttle body with TB cleaner and mass air sensor with electronics cleaner. I also used about half of a bottle of seafoam in one of the vacuum lines to the engine, and the other half in the fuel tank. Also ran some Chevron fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank. Nothing seemed to make a difference. It still persists.
It's noticeable the most in neutral, you can watch the tach rev up from 800 rpm to about 1100 and back down repeatedly. If the car is in drive and the brake is lightly applied, it will want to move when its revving up.
I have a 2007 3.3 with 42K miles on it and the AC just started passing air that's not quite as cold as it used to be. When its at idle I would say its a mild cold and then when driving its the same mild cold but with more force. Understandably today is really the first hot, humid day of many to come so I was wondering is there any good indication that its just low freon with a leak or the compressor is going or is there any adjustment to the belt in case its just slipping? I did it drive it for quite awhile and it never improved. I would hate to drive it more and ask for a bigger problem.
View 2 RepliesWell its the coldest this SF has endured while in my barn. It was -23C last night or early this morning went we got up. -19C now but it doesn't warm up with a slight change sitting outside. I started it ok but these newer vehicles sure make a lot of whining and other noises when its this cold until they run for a minute they quiet down.
My old Grand Cherokee was a lot quieter even with near 300k on it it. But my wife's Jeep Compass a 2009 made enough noises as well. Both have synthetic oil in them. I just don't like hearing all that and wonder what its like for you that are in much colder climate with your SF since -30 to -40C is common in other parts of Canada in the Winter. Just curious because it cannot be good and the PS pump must be one of the complainers I am sure.
I have a 2007 SF 2.7L V6 with 55000km.
Recently we have noticed that from a cold start the engine idles roughly few a short time and especially bad if put into gear only moments after starting.
Do we need to let it warm up for longer?
Twice this week our 2009 SantaFe (3.3l) had a squeal from the engine upon cold startup. The first time it was very cold (-20C or so) and this was louder and longer than the second time (-10C or so). The squeal lasted only a few seconds and trailed off to nothing. Each time the heater controls were set on defrost (fyi). In order of likely suspects, I suspect one of the following:
-compressor engaging and causing sudden increase in resistance on the belt or compressor engagement clutch noisy
-idler pulley for some reason causing belt to slip at first, but don't suspect idler bearing as noise disappears right away
-belt slippage due to resistance somewhere else--e.g. water pump or alternator.
This may not happen when I take the vehicle in for its next scheduled maintenance as by then the weather will likely be warmer. This has 76000 km on the clock.
I have a 2012 Santa Fe and during the last cold spell, both myself and passenger felt a lot of very cold drafts entering the car through the door handle and door switches.
View 3 RepliesI've been experiencing ENGINE RPM FLUCTUATION on cold starts. I took it into the dealer and they found an update available for the ECU and reprogrammed the ECU.
2009 Santa Fe ?
So far it appears to have corrected the RPM Fluctuation on a cold start... I see TSB 10-FL-010 cover this but also suggests to replace the Throttle Position Sensor which wasn't done on my vehicle.
Having an issue with my 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L. When the engine is cold, been sitting for a few hours not when the temp outside is cold, it takes about 5 to 8 cranks before the engine will fire. I can then shut it off immediately and start it again and it will fire right up.
I currently have the P0464, P0463 and P2068 check engine error codes for the fuel level sensor units. I don't really know if these are directly related as I've had them for about 6 months and the starting issue has just shown up the last month or so. Plus, I would assume these should only be related to sending fuel level information to the fuel gauge. Either way, I'm still leaning toward a fuel delivery issue since it only has a hard time starting when the car has been sitting for a few hours. I don't know if maybe it's the fuel pump or a electrical component. If it's the fuel pump, I'd like to do that when I take care of the sending units so I don't have to go back in. I've tried turning the car to the 'on" position for about 10 seconds without starting it to see if I could get the pump to load the line, if that's the issue, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
The battery is good. It tested 12.5v after sitting over night.