Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Loud Tapping / Knocking Noise From Engine
Mar 11, 2016
I am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
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I'm having an issues with my Santa Fe MY07 - Basically I was driving down the dual carriage way last week when suddenly the oil light came on and with the 500m it took me to stop a loud tapping noise was coming from the engine as it seized - The break down people came out to the car as they were inspecting it they informed me that the Sump cap was missing - the car is under warranty - however Hyundai as say that because the cannot find out why the sump cap had came off (and that in there mind they cannot give any reason why it should of) it is there for NOT a manufacturing issue and that they would not cover the repairs under warranty...
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Trying to find any information on what's happening with my 2008 2.2 Diesel Santa Fe ... Been driving fine until I pulled up at a set of traffic lights yesterday and started hearing a loud rattle- knocking coming from the engine at idle.
Put it in gear and drove and it goes away. When at idle if you rev the car it goes away.
Mechanic seems to think it could be clutch as it vibrates the gearbox, but sound seems to be more prominent around the engine, my thoughts were maybe a loose timing tensioner.
Clutch replacement is very expensive.
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My 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
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In my 2007 toyota camry, 4 cyl, W/ 120K miles, I have loud tapping noise while the A/C is on. Noise is only heard when the car is idling or when coming to a stop light. No noise when A/C is off.
Its sounds like the tapping noise is coming from top end of the engine. Engine shakes also while noise is present.
To me it sounds like piston slap which I am going to try to isolate it by running high octan gas. Personally I don't think its piston slap.
Maintenance stuff done: ireduim spark plugs, air/ cabin filter, drive belt, water pump @ 60K, oil change every 5K.
Problem 2: Also is there any fix for Radio AUX noise in speakers beside Toyota TSB on it. Getting electrical noise in the speakers through cellphone when its charging through car power outlet.
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Last month I changed the oil and filter in my 1992 Buick Century with 264000 miles. I used a name brand (Citco) of the correct oil, 10W-30, API Service SN. I bought the oil on sale at a local supermarket. Now, I hear a loud tapping sound from the engine, especially when it's cold. It dosen't sound as loud after warm-up. The tapping increases in frequency when I rev up the engine. I don't intend to keep this old car much longer, but is this problem an immediate concern? Could it be a valve problem? Could it Could I have bought some bad oil with a conterfeit label? Other than this noise, the car runs okay.
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I have noticed that when the car was in park today right after I started her I heard a semi loud tapping noise coming from the engine... It slowed down when I turned the wheels or played with the brakes... As I went into drive the noise went away after about 20 feet of driving..
What this could be? Is it normal... Just bought the car last week with 45K miles on it and just want to make sure if it is a normal noise or not or whether I should bring her into the dealer.
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My 2004 Santy 3.5L (I am the original owner) just turned 91.4K miles and all of a sudden a VERY LOUD Engine Knocking sound came from the top of the engine. I have been changing my own oil since new with synthetic Mobil 1 and a new filter every time, and I never had any issues. I changed it last week at 90K prior a Spring Break trip (1350 miles).
Then yesterday after I let her rest for 1 day, I took the kids to school and within 10 miles of my house the ticking HARD loud noise started happening. I pulled over near a shop (within 1 block of where the noise started) and they said...don't drive it it sounds like a lifter collapsed, or a rod bearing or something big...
I had her towed to the dealer and the first thing they told me is to gather all the oil change receipts and a "manifesto" and they asked me how often I change the oil... I said every 5K miles. I change my own oil and have done since day 1.
BTW, Timing Belt, Water Pump, tensioners, belts, coolant, spark plugs and coils were changed last year at 77K miles.
The car should still be covered under the 10year/100K Powertrain and I believe they are trying to build a case so Hyundai can cover this or not...
They still need to tell me what's wrong... I change my own oil so I don't have receipts for "oil changes" and I have a log of when oil was changed...
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I've had this tapping in my engine for a few weeks now and I put it in drive then heard a huge bang from the front of my engine and then started making a very loud popping noise that almost sounded like air leaving the valve cover...
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I have a 2009 AWD Santa Fe with a little over 43K miles. Over the past few months it's developed a knocking noise that is most audible from the front drivers side area. The knocking speeds up or slows according to the car's speed, and appears somewhat louder when the steering wheel is turned. My initial suspicion from my surfing here is either a CV joint or wheel bearing.
I took it to the dealer that sold it to me and am getting increasingly frustrated with their work. The first irritation was yesterday when the service advisor called to say the problem was corroded rear rotors and brake pads; both wear items not covered under warranty. Though skeptical (since I was hearing the noise coming from up front, not from the back) I authorized the $300+ for turning the rotors, replacing brake pads and flushing the brake system.
When I showed up to retrieve the car I was told it'd been test driven and the problem was fixed. I asked the tech specifically whether he'd checked the CV joints and he assured me he had and they were fine. Upon driving away it was immediately obvious the knock was still there. Back to the dealer. I had the tech drive it with me in the passenger seat. He acknowledged he could now heard the knocking, but claimed he previously couldn't hear it over the horrible loud squealing from my rusted rotors; nor had he heard it on his alleged post-fix test drive. The problem with that is I've never heard this claimed horrible loud squealing, nor has my girlfriend, nor have any other regular passengers.
Back at the dealership the situation escalated when the service advisor, in defense of his tech, also claimed the horrible squealing rotors had drowned out any other noises. The problem with that is he admitted he'd not come along on any of the previous claimed test rides, and claimed to have heard the horrible squealing rotors only while the car was in the shop and/or up on the lift while the tech was turning a rear wheel by hand. Err, if the car was not driven any for distance or speed, of course you wouldn't have heard any knocking up front.
Yesterday evening I got a call from the shop advising the problem had now been diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing, front driver's side. I was assured it'd be fixed and ready this afternoon. All well and good. I showed up this afternoon and the service advisor stated the car was just getting buttoned up and we're going to test drive it. Fine, I'd like to come along on the test drive I said. He agreed, asked me to sit in the waiting room. In a few short minutes though - not long enough IMO - he came back out to advise the tech had just test driven the car (without me?!) and the knock is still there.
As of this writing I have no info from them as to what it might be. I left the car with them and asked the service advisor to have the tech(s) double check the CV joints. He got huffy with me and declared that if if the tech said he'd check them, there's no need to do so again. At this point I'm not sure whether I can trust this dealers' service department. I don't think the service advisor is being honest with me - I think he's been caught in a minor fib re: test riding and is compounding the situation by sticking with it.
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2009 Santa Fe only 40500 miles ... Should I Be concerned about the noise it has done this since I bought it in 2010 ...
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My new SANTA FE has merely covered 10000 km. The vehicle is running fine except a very irritating loud knocking noise from top of front windshield area. The noise is generated as soon as vehicle goes over a minor irregularity on road or even if you make a sharp right or left turn.
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So, I am driving, engine starts to knock, i stop, check oil, there is none.... I drive to nearest gas station, put in 4 quarts, still knocks but quieter. Drive back home 75 miles, knocking is incredibly loud. Had oil changed 2500 miles ago, no signs of leaking (Did they put oil in after draining? Hard to prove they didn't) By the time I got home, new oil was black. Is this an engine replacement or can it be fixed?
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I have a knocking sound from my D4EB engine (2008 Santa Fe. 120,000 miles)
Problem has been any diagnosis of the cause because the mechanics cannot agree. One has said top end and another bottom end. If it is top end when I think the consensus would be to get the present engine rebuilt. However, if bottom end then, because of the increased cost, the better option might be to replace with a reconditioned engine.
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My car has less than 500 miles on it. Yesterday when I started it, I heard a knocking sound. I only put 87 octane gas in the car as the manual said 87 or higher. I don't know if I made a mistake putting 87 in there.
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Lately it has been in the 20's in my area and I've noticed on the first start of the morning the engine sounds very loud and produces a "knocking" noise that lasts a few seconds and then goes back to its normal loud idle. This only happens on the first start of the day...all subsequent starts in the day are fine. (mine is a 2007 model with the FSI engine)
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My car has 63 000 km and engine is making loud knocking noise all the time. Dealer took a quick look and he asked head office. Now he wants to run some tests to see which valve is bad. He's hesitating between repairing or replacing the engine. I'm really disappointed of Hyundai quality. I really hope that I get new engine instead of poor repair job.
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I recently started having a very loud knocking noise in my engine and I can't place it. Mostly due to my lack of car knowledge I can only trouble shoot so far. The following conditions are what I can really only go from:.
- when I'm in park or neutral the knocking happens in about 5 beats per second.
- while idling in gear it almost goes away.
- while driving it increases in frequency and intensity the higher the rpms, until it switches gears, then its dull until I get closer to topping out another gear.
- No real functionality of the car has changed.
- I tried doing a mild brake torque, in both drive and reverse, and the engine did not move.
- the knock is pretty hard to locate exactly but seems to come from the passenger side.
I'm hoping it's not to serious because I just filled the gas tank.
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I have a 2007 2.7L with 150,000 miles. Yesterday while driving at 20mph my engine all of a sudden started knocking like I lost the timing belt which I replaced 10,000 miles back, including the tensioner fully (bought as a kit off Rock auto). I parked immediately. Today we investigated a little more and what we found is that os is more like a loud knock and not a metal on metal sound. It definitely knocks faster or slower with the RPM of the engine. It even ceased for a while and the engine idles silently but then on the next restart it came back.
It even went away again with an increase in RPM but then came back at an idle or sometimes didn't. You can clearly hear it in the rear of the block. I will admit I have never changed the plugs. We can a scan on it and a misfire in #4 cylinder came up. Unfortunately my check engine light is always on because I have a bad sensor in my fuel tank that ill get to some day. So I'm not sure if that code is recent or not. I know I need to identify the location of the sound more closely before anyone touches my motor. Could it be bad gas that causes a misfire and knocking? I have had that code before and new gas fixed the misfire but there was no knocking then. I religiously change my oil every 5000 miles and just did 500 miles ago.
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Just got my 2013 CPO GS350 and love it. I did notice this morning a tapping or ticking noise, like a diesel engine would make, as the car warmed up. Anything to be concerned about or can that be normal for a GS? Also, are there any recalls or TSBs I should check into for this car?
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I have a Manual 2003 Mitsubishi OZ Rally Lancer. She was sitting for awhile due to the main cylinder causing issues for the clutch, which is now fixed. But I noticed the other day that whenever I press the gas there's a tap noise for a second and goes away, it happens every time I put my foot on the gas. The sound is like someone tapping there foot on tile floor. I can also feel the tap noise.
I'm not sure what it could be. I know the passenger front tire is tinking when I drive around, which I'm getting fixed this afternoon, but what could be causing this noise when I accelerate and how urgent would it need to be fixed?
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