I'm not sure whether it's real or even possible. Starting this summer, when it's hot and I turn on AC, I feel loss of power from the engine. When need for speed, it's slow to accelerate. The engine is less powerful than when it's cool and no AC running. Is this possible? It's 2010 V6 AWD.
View 6 RepliesSo, I experienced a brief loss of power steering yesterday that was rather startling, then today I hear about a recall on other models for the exact issue.
View 3 RepliesThe car started rough idling and a few weeks ago while driving "lost power" momentarily. I went to take a look at it and even just idling it will randomly drop 1000 rpm, or when the gas is one in P it does the same thing. also the dash lights dim at the same time.
I pulled these codes (below). I cleared the codes and tried to replicate with no luck. The car had been sitting in a parking lot outside for a few days and it has been -15C. I asked if it seemed to only happen when it was warm (the week before it was +10C) and they said yes. It has been another week (still cold) and the codes have not returned.
Quick google of these codes suggests maybe a throttle position sensor and/or loose battery connection.
I am using a Hyundai Santa Fe (Petrol, 2011 Model) here in Saudi Arabia. On July 17 (11:30 pm), I was driving in a highway at about 80-90 kms/hr when suddenly my vehicle lost power (steering wheel, brake, etc).
Baed on the diagnosis of our company mechanic, it was an alternator problem. He said the alternator bearing got stuck up.
Prior to this incident, on July 7, the same vehicle got stalled twice while it's parked. In the first case, I was able to use it after jumpstarting. In the second case in the same day (4 hours after the first case), jump starting didn't work so they have to replace it with a temporary used battery. I noticed that I had a hard start (the engine responds only after 3-4 key ignition). After replacing the battery with new one, I was able to drive normally from July 9 to Jul 17, and then the incident happened as I described in the first paragraph.
Question: Is there a way to detect the alternator bearing problem before it actually breaks down? If there is, what procedure or predictive test is normally followed to identify potential problems in an alternator?
Driving 30 mph, oil light came on, immediate loss of power braking and steering. Engine did not stop, oil light disappeared yet still had loss of power steering and brakes. Still in D. Policeman had to stand on brake pedal to get into Park so that engine could be turned off. Towed to dealer in next state and dealer said cannot replicate so cannot fix.
Car is 2012 Santa Fe w/ less than 6,000 miles on it.
What's happening with my Santa Fe (3.5L AWD). In the past couple of weeks I'm seeing poorer fuel economy (about 15% worse) and the vehicle feels like it is down on power, especially in fifth gear. I mean, the vehicle works and some might not notice, but... There are no warning lights. Engine oil is slightly high (1/4 inch or less) and transmission oil appears to be correctly filled. Don't see leaks from this vehicle on the driveway.
I had an oil change about 3 weeks ago, at a Hyundai dealership, where I switched from regular to synthetic. I was told that no special procedure was required in making that switch, so none was done. About two weeks ago, the stereo system was dead one day. Would not turn on at all. In trying to troubleshoot I pulled the Audio and Radio fuses (there seemed to be three in the dash area), but they were fine and after I reinstalled them the radio worked again. Those are the only maintenance and other issues I've seen in months.
The vehicle has pretty new rear brakes and I don't feel unusual heat there. Could the switch over in oil types or electrical issue with the radio be related? I've done many hundreds of miles since both events.
My wife has had her 2010 3.5 Santa Fe since new. Over the past year it's been having a clunk develop when accelerating, happening a few times from a start until highway speed. The clunks almost feel as if one is driving over bumps - that's what I thought at first. The power doesn't seem to be there anymore either. I have been driving her vehicle the past three years and it was fine when I first started driving it. But the past couple years I first noticed a problem and it seems it is getting progressively worse. My wife now notices it quite a bit too.
View 1 RepliesWhen I start the engine it works fine while the motor is cold (idle normal all smooth). When the engine the temperature reach normal operating range the car loose power and idle drops to 350-500 rpm and if i am driving I can not go over 40mi/h. I drive a 2008 Sta Fe now with 96000 KM (~~60000 miles). A month ago the engine start shaking severely and knocking noise (like some spark plugs where not working), from this to now:
Changed all sparks plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Now this situation looks more related to temperature of the engine.
We have had had our Santa Fe for a year, done 38000 km and love it. The car will start up and drive around town fine but as soon as the engine is under load at highway speeds or driving up a hill it loses all power.
In Automatic when this happens the gear will drop back to third. You can switch it over to manual mode and slowly accelerate back up to around 80-90km/hour with your foot flat to the floor but the rpm don't get above around 2000 to 3000.
If you stop and turn the engine off for a minute or so, when you start again everything will appear to back to normal but after another minute or two the problem will be back. The engine malfunction light comes on and sometime it's flashing but at other times it's constant.
The car's been in at our local Hyundai dealer for a week but at this stage they still can't quite figure out the exact cause of the problem. The code they pulled out suggested it was the exhaust particulate filter (apparently quite an expensive part) so they replaced that but it didn't fix it. They've also replaced the fuel filter and some temperature sensors that are part of the particulate filter apparently but still no joy.
I have owned this car for six months. The car now has 39K. The problem is getting worse.
Re: Lexus 2011 LS460 AWD
Subject: Hesitation / momentary loss of power when accelerating after turn.
When accelerating after a sharp turn with light to moderate acceleration, the car will have a momentary loss of power for about 1, 2, or even 3 seconds. This does not happen often, but perhaps once every two weeks and I cannot replicate the problem despite attempting to do so.
In all cases, I am talking about DRY pavement. It always happens after a sharp turn usually to the right. (Probably because most sharp turns are to the right actually it only happened once on a left turn that I will describe below.) Acceleration is light to moderate NOT hard acceleration.
In one case it caused a serious situation. I had just purchased gas and was entering a busy freeway. When accelerating, the engine had a total loss of power for a couple seconds as a large semi truck bore down on me with its air horns blaring.
I have a strong clue that may debug this problem. Once, when turning left, the car suffered a total loss of power. There was no traffic and I kept my foot lightly on the throttle. The car remained unresponsive. The engine did not stop, but it did not respond and remained this way for at least 5 seconds until I took my foot off the accelerator and then back on to the accelerator. During this period of suspended throttle, I noticed that on the right side of the dash an orange alert symbol was flashing I think it was a swerving car? I assume this indicated that the car was losing traction and the computer decided to cut power until traction was regained. But the pavement was dry, and the acceleration was normal. In no case did I ever sense that one of the wheels was slipping.
The diesel filter water level light came on today and I noticed a lack of power. I drained of the water which made no difference so I replaced the filter which still made no difference . The light is still on and the engine is powerless from 2000 rpm .
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 santa fe. In the last year or so, when you turn the key to start the car - you get nothing... Like it has no electrical power, no sound, etc. However, it has never lasted more than 1min to an hour it varies. There is nothing you can do about it, just try it a couple of times, come back and try it again. It has never not started eventually. About 95% of the time, it starts within 10 min after you start trying it. However every now and again it is 10 min to an hour or more. Sometimes it goes weeks without doing it (starts the first time) and then you get a string of everyday for weeks.
The dealer can't figure out whats wrong, they need it to stop working completely. I am an engineer and have not been able to find any correlation (cold weather vs hot), not driving it for a while, turning off ac, lights, radio, using a different key. Also, during this time the battery has been periodically tested and has tested out fine.
I have just purchased a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and there is a problem with the steering. At slow speed, particularly in reverse when performing a full-lock turn, the power delivery is jerky and the vehicles jumps a bit.
It feels like either the AWD system is binding or the CV joints are operating beyond their limits. I have ready other posts that this is a known problem - the dealer I bought it from said the same, that it is known and seems to be accepted by Hyundai, there seems to be no recall on this and apparently this doesn't happen in post 20009 models when they face-lifted and supposedly changed the steering lock limits.
I'd like to understand more what is happening, see if there is a solution that I can implement, or alternatively if I have to just accept this, then it would be good to get reassurance that what I am feeling is not going to damage something further down the line.
We have a 2011 Santa Fe we got last October. We have had four different instances where the vehicle suddenly stalled out. The first was within a few weeks of purchase and was blamed on a loose battery negative post that prevented the battery from recharging correctly. When we called the dealership service department we were told that we were not driving it long enough to recharge the battery and that the battery light would go out once it recharged. Well all the lights went out when the car died going through an intersection at night with my wife at the wheel.
The second through fourth issue is that without warning there is a total loss of acceleration then the engine light comes on. The first time this happened my wife was able to steer off the road and after a few minutes was able to restart and drive the car home. I then drove the car about a mile when it happened to me. The car was towed to the dealership where they said there was a required software update. Really?? After that it drove fine for about a month then stalled when my wife was merging onto a freeway.
The dealership checked and found three active codes: P2106 Forced Limit Power, P2110 Force Limit RPM and P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range. They also checked TSB updates and found (12-FL-004) for ECM. They also called Tech Line and recommended change of Throttle Body Assembly. This is all under warrantly. We got the car back yesterday.
My father owns a 2003 Santa Fe GLS with the 2WD 2.7L V6 engine.
Recently it has been having lots of power loss issues. It vibrates/misses when idling, if you put your foot down on the gas pedal, whether under load or not, it sometimes stalls or just sits there. We took it to Hyundai, and they had no error codes. They charged us $150 to tell us nothing is wrong with it, when clearly something is. The car has become downright dangerous to drive because it cannot make it up hills without stalling/losing power.
The most recent thing we had done to it was the wires/spark plugs changed, which I think was at 65k on the odometer?
2003 Santa Fe - Loss of power while driving on highway. Dropped from 60 to 15 MPH in matter of seconds. Feels like a couple of cylinders (3.5 liter) are not working.
View 2 RepliesI have a Santa fe 2002 crd 2.0 4x4 and recently had a lot of black smoke and a loss of power when driving, it starts fine but when revving it blows black smoke from exhaust and has no power to pull away, been told its possible turbo problem or fuel problem.
View 1 RepliesToday I took my AWD 2.7 Santa Fe out. All seemed fine until I made a turn... I noticed I was loosing power and came to a stop, despite pressing the gas pedal fully. The car then started to vibrate extremely hard and all of the dash lights came on. The car stalled completely. I tried to start the car again, but it took a few tries. The car shook severely in park, but when put in drive immediately became much worse and then completely stalled. I did this many times trying to get out of the street. I finally got it to work good enough to get off the road - I did however notice that it would not shift out of 1st gear. It had very high rpms, but refused to shift.
I am guessing this is the crankshaft position sensor? Could this be a MAF problem? I believe I read on this forum about high humidity making Santa Fes go crazy - it has been over 95% today, and raining. I managed to get the car down the road to a shop we trust. They are going to try and read codes later.
Bought my Santa Fe GLS less than 2 months ago and ran fine. Last week, went to store no problems and then went out 5 minutes later, put it in reverse and it stalled. I go to the store, and it lacks MAJOR power.
Now, if I leave it alone for a while it will normally start right up. While idling, everything seems fine. Then my "ghost" takes over the vehicle making it less responsive to the gas pedal. Also, at 3000 rpm, it sounds like its skipping a cylinder. When reading the gauge, it skips between 3000rpm to abut 2800 rpm.
I own a 02 fwd v6 Santa Fe that just lost power on the interstate. It will go about 20 miles an hour and basically does not change gear unless it is in manual mode. I was able to drive it to a local repair shop but they are having trouble figuring out what is wrong with it.
First, they told me the plugs and wires were bad, changed those and still no power. Next, they told me it was the fuel pump, change that and still no power. Next, they said it was the catalytic converters but the said they unhooked them to test the theory and it still had not powered. They said it may need back pressure from the cats so that may not work. They want me to buy them but they are very expensive especially on a guess. Next, they told me if that does not fix it is must be the transmission. Will the cats off keep it from running due to back pressure? Does it sound like a transmission issue or could it be something else?
Initially I used to get cutting out of the engine randomly whilst driving which everyone believes is linked to an ECU issue i believe...I added some reddex fuel cleaner and that seemed to clear the problem up for myself which is a diesel 2.2 ...
However I was beginning to have starting issues where i would need to pump the gas to get the car started...I changed the battery and the glow plugs and yet i was still having issues. I had the air intake and filter looked a diagnostic test run both showing no issues and then one day I was driving and suddenly i got a huge loss of power and black smoke out of the exhaust....Seriously i had no grunt and i was a hazard to cars behind me....!!!! It was weird how first thing in the morning it seemed fine but later in the day i was getting this problem over and over again and eventually the car wouldnt start without a jump from another vehicle..
Any how i took it to various garages but in the end i took it to Rockar Hyundai at Dartford (i cannot recommend enough) but simply all they did was look at the fuel filter and saw that one of the injectors were faulty...After changing this the problem still occurred but again only when the car was warm...They then looked at the pipes leading to the injector that was faulty and then found that there was a crack/split in it and obviously when cold it was sealed but when warm was opening and i believe letting in air.... Anyhow they have changed that and the car feels great and no issues...