Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Loss Of Power/ Increased Fuel Consumption
Aug 29, 2011
What's happening with my Santa Fe (3.5L AWD). In the past couple of weeks I'm seeing poorer fuel economy (about 15% worse) and the vehicle feels like it is down on power, especially in fifth gear. I mean, the vehicle works and some might not notice, but... There are no warning lights. Engine oil is slightly high (1/4 inch or less) and transmission oil appears to be correctly filled. Don't see leaks from this vehicle on the driveway.
I had an oil change about 3 weeks ago, at a Hyundai dealership, where I switched from regular to synthetic. I was told that no special procedure was required in making that switch, so none was done. About two weeks ago, the stereo system was dead one day. Would not turn on at all. In trying to troubleshoot I pulled the Audio and Radio fuses (there seemed to be three in the dash area), but they were fine and after I reinstalled them the radio worked again. Those are the only maintenance and other issues I've seen in months.
The vehicle has pretty new rear brakes and I don't feel unusual heat there. Could the switch over in oil types or electrical issue with the radio be related? I've done many hundreds of miles since both events.
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I had idle travelling problem wich I solved changing AIT sensor. At the same time I cleaned MAF and TB with air sensor cleaner. Now my problem is cold start and driving 2nd and 3rd gear. Instantaneuous fuel consumption will go 20l to 50l driving 2nd and 3rd gear and if I stop values lowers like 20l...16l...10l... and finally on idle it stays in 0.8l/s. Average consumpion has increased 1l to 2l/100km.
These are the air mass readings when I drive 2nd and 3rd gear
rpm ja air mass g/s
1400 9,56
1240 9,22
1240 8,97
1240 8,64
1240 8,47
1200 8,86
1240 8,44
1240 8,31
1240 8,5
1240 8,36
1240 8,17
1240 7,67
1240 7,89
1240 7,89
1480 6,17
2600 7,03
3120 34,14
Full Throttle
2800 48,89
3320 94,11
4040 112,31
4680 135,56
5320 150,31
Turbo asked vs. actual value
1510 1290
1990 1970
1970 1980
1890 1870
1000 1180
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We have a 2002 Sante Fe with v6 and 270,000 km on it. Just had extreme loss of power and jerky acceleration from a stop. This has happened a few times in the past year and each time with a 1/4 tank of fuel? We pulled into a gas station, filled it up and away we go like nothing was wrong?
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I'm not sure whether it's real or even possible. Starting this summer, when it's hot and I turn on AC, I feel loss of power from the engine. When need for speed, it's slow to accelerate. The engine is less powerful than when it's cool and no AC running. Is this possible? It's 2010 V6 AWD.
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So, I experienced a brief loss of power steering yesterday that was rather startling, then today I hear about a recall on other models for the exact issue.
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The car started rough idling and a few weeks ago while driving "lost power" momentarily. I went to take a look at it and even just idling it will randomly drop 1000 rpm, or when the gas is one in P it does the same thing. also the dash lights dim at the same time.
I pulled these codes (below). I cleared the codes and tried to replicate with no luck. The car had been sitting in a parking lot outside for a few days and it has been -15C. I asked if it seemed to only happen when it was warm (the week before it was +10C) and they said yes. It has been another week (still cold) and the codes have not returned.
Quick google of these codes suggests maybe a throttle position sensor and/or loose battery connection.
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I am using a Hyundai Santa Fe (Petrol, 2011 Model) here in Saudi Arabia. On July 17 (11:30 pm), I was driving in a highway at about 80-90 kms/hr when suddenly my vehicle lost power (steering wheel, brake, etc).
Baed on the diagnosis of our company mechanic, it was an alternator problem. He said the alternator bearing got stuck up.
Prior to this incident, on July 7, the same vehicle got stalled twice while it's parked. In the first case, I was able to use it after jumpstarting. In the second case in the same day (4 hours after the first case), jump starting didn't work so they have to replace it with a temporary used battery. I noticed that I had a hard start (the engine responds only after 3-4 key ignition). After replacing the battery with new one, I was able to drive normally from July 9 to Jul 17, and then the incident happened as I described in the first paragraph.
Question: Is there a way to detect the alternator bearing problem before it actually breaks down? If there is, what procedure or predictive test is normally followed to identify potential problems in an alternator?
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Driving 30 mph, oil light came on, immediate loss of power braking and steering. Engine did not stop, oil light disappeared yet still had loss of power steering and brakes. Still in D. Policeman had to stand on brake pedal to get into Park so that engine could be turned off. Towed to dealer in next state and dealer said cannot replicate so cannot fix.
Car is 2012 Santa Fe w/ less than 6,000 miles on it.
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My wife has had her 2010 3.5 Santa Fe since new. Over the past year it's been having a clunk develop when accelerating, happening a few times from a start until highway speed. The clunks almost feel as if one is driving over bumps - that's what I thought at first. The power doesn't seem to be there anymore either. I have been driving her vehicle the past three years and it was fine when I first started driving it. But the past couple years I first noticed a problem and it seems it is getting progressively worse. My wife now notices it quite a bit too.
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When I start the engine it works fine while the motor is cold (idle normal all smooth). When the engine the temperature reach normal operating range the car loose power and idle drops to 350-500 rpm and if i am driving I can not go over 40mi/h. I drive a 2008 Sta Fe now with 96000 KM (~~60000 miles). A month ago the engine start shaking severely and knocking noise (like some spark plugs where not working), from this to now:
Changed all sparks plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Now this situation looks more related to temperature of the engine.
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My dad's Camry (which I also drive), has been having a problem since a couple of months now. Whenever I floor the vehicle, you can feel the power kick in but after a couple seconds you can feel a slightly lack of power. Its not like the car doesn't accelerates, but it does feels like if you release the pedal a bit.
The car also has the following issues:
-Shifting problems: The car has been having shifting problems due to the automatic transmission fluid temperature sensor (don't know if this may cause the ecu to go in some sort of "emergency mode" and reduce the power a bit)
-Strong fuel smell after driving: After some driving, you can smell fuel mainly at the back of the car.
I'm thinking in about changing the sparkplugs as we have never done it to the car. Car has 80.000km (50.000 miles) Car is a Toyota Camry 2007 V6 3.5 2GR-FE
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We have had had our Santa Fe for a year, done 38000 km and love it. The car will start up and drive around town fine but as soon as the engine is under load at highway speeds or driving up a hill it loses all power.
In Automatic when this happens the gear will drop back to third. You can switch it over to manual mode and slowly accelerate back up to around 80-90km/hour with your foot flat to the floor but the rpm don't get above around 2000 to 3000.
If you stop and turn the engine off for a minute or so, when you start again everything will appear to back to normal but after another minute or two the problem will be back. The engine malfunction light comes on and sometime it's flashing but at other times it's constant.
The car's been in at our local Hyundai dealer for a week but at this stage they still can't quite figure out the exact cause of the problem. The code they pulled out suggested it was the exhaust particulate filter (apparently quite an expensive part) so they replaced that but it didn't fix it. They've also replaced the fuel filter and some temperature sensors that are part of the particulate filter apparently but still no joy.
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The diesel filter water level light came on today and I noticed a lack of power. I drained of the water which made no difference so I replaced the filter which still made no difference . The light is still on and the engine is powerless from 2000 rpm .
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I replace all my spark plugs but my car still has no power and its eating gas like crazy.
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As most of us probably do up in the colder regions, idle time likely increases to some degree. I do have and use the high idle mod unless it's a cold start and the truck does it on it's own during warm up.
I guess what I have always wondered is how much fuel does one actually use during idle? Reason I ask is it has not really hurt the mileage that much at this point from what I have been seeing. Sure it does go down but it's not really bad.
How long do posters here let a truck sit and idle, for instance when running an errand or making a stop?
10 minutes?
20?
Longer?
We all know during cold weather the big over the road trucks will sit for an hour or longer when drivers stop, and most let them run all night if at a truck or rest stop.......granted the circumstances are different.
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Did a little experiment today. I was in Fairbanks this week and today it was between -35* and -40*F. Quite frankly I was too lazy to park my truck behind the building and plug in, so I just left it running.
2015 F350 KR, 63k miles. Fully deleted and tuned with a PPE Ez-Lynk. I've been running the stock tune because mileage seems about the same between all of them and when it's winter with ice and snow, you don't go anywhere fast. 5W40 synthetic oil with 7300 miles on it and 220ish hours. Change engine oil soon light has been on for the last 200 miles and 20 hours.
I have the BD Diesel high idle kit with the rotating switch to adjust the idle level. Fuel consumption was monitored using the truck computer, which I have found to be very accurate on a consistent basis. Computer was reset at the start of each trial.
Trial 1: RPMS set at 1250 via high idle kit. Truck idled for 6 hours, 10 minutes. Fuel consumption was indicated at 5.2 gallons, or roughly .85 gallons per hour. Engine oil temp was about 185*F (remember ambient temp is -40). I was pretty surprised at how much fuel it used.
Trial 2: Back from lunch at Taco King. Figured the truck itself is pretty smart, so if the engine got too cold, it would probably boost the RPMS on it's own. Turned high idle off. Idled for 4 hours 15 minutes. Fuel consumption was 1.8 gallons, or roughly .43 gallons per hour. Engine oil temp was 150*F. Much more reasonable consumption.
.85 gallons an hour is pretty expensive but .43 gallons an hour is much, much more economical.
The biggest difference, besides fuel consumption, was engine oil temperature with a 35* difference. Is 150*F a safe, sustainable oil temperature for these engines to idle at without causing excessive wear?
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So, my 2005 Gen II Prius went for a scheduled service on Wednesday, 70k miles, Toyota main dealer. They called and said it needed new front brake pads and disks, I was surprised but gave the go ahead. There would occasionally have been a mild squealing sound from the brakes at very low speed so I accepted the pads might need replacing, I was surprised the disks needed replacing but it hard to argue about brakes, especially as I only have the car a year (I'm the second owner and it has a full Toyota service history). It had a "major" service, new spark plugs, new front brake pads and disks.
Since collecting it I've noticed that the engine seems to kick in more often and needs higher revs. The fuel consumption seems higher, normally mid 50's MPG (imperial gallon) now 35MPG. However it hasn't been driven many miles since its been serviced so its a low distance for calculating MPG. I've also noticed that the car seems to slow more quickly without applying the brakes, a regularly driven hill that I coast down at 48kph now only gives 35kph. Also, if I drive on a flat road for a mile or 2 and coast to a stop the front brake disks feel VERY hot, way too hot to touch, drivers side more so that passenger side.
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When I go out to do errands around town (I live right in town) I get horrendous gas mileage. Now, I understand gas mileage is high at the beginning of a trip, but for this long and this high and under these circumstances? I'm getting ABOVE 10l/100km when I have 80% charge available (for americans, that's disgustingly high MPG like, pick-up truck high), AND my foot is completely off the gas. Literally, coasting, or braking, and I'm still sucking up gas. What the heck?
Is this just because it takes a certain amount of time for the engine to run no matter what or something? I still don't see any reason for me to be eating up all that gas when my foot isn't even on the gas AND most importantly, I have charge available. Feels pointless for me to use my car for what I use it for 70% of the time, which is for quick errands around town at low speeds. Thought the prius was suppose to be a superstar for this kind of thing.
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What is the hourly fuel consumption for a Toyota Prius at idle? Purpose is keep cabin warm for 8 hours. Would this damage engine?
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We have a 2011 Santa Fe we got last October. We have had four different instances where the vehicle suddenly stalled out. The first was within a few weeks of purchase and was blamed on a loose battery negative post that prevented the battery from recharging correctly. When we called the dealership service department we were told that we were not driving it long enough to recharge the battery and that the battery light would go out once it recharged. Well all the lights went out when the car died going through an intersection at night with my wife at the wheel.
The second through fourth issue is that without warning there is a total loss of acceleration then the engine light comes on. The first time this happened my wife was able to steer off the road and after a few minutes was able to restart and drive the car home. I then drove the car about a mile when it happened to me. The car was towed to the dealership where they said there was a required software update. Really?? After that it drove fine for about a month then stalled when my wife was merging onto a freeway.
The dealership checked and found three active codes: P2106 Forced Limit Power, P2110 Force Limit RPM and P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range. They also checked TSB updates and found (12-FL-004) for ECM. They also called Tech Line and recommended change of Throttle Body Assembly. This is all under warrantly. We got the car back yesterday.
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My wife was driving to work today and she called me when she was almost to work and said that when she was at the red-light and said when she started from the red-light the car was fine and she hit a certain rpm and the rpm's dropped and there was a strong smell of fuel. The car was still running and would idle fine but was running almost like it was flooded or had a miss like a coil pack or spark plug. There was no check engine so I am not sure I haven't got to look at the car yet.
I forgot to mention a few months back she had a check engine for the intake manifold runner flap called the dealer and set up an appointment to take it in. Took it up and by the time we got there the check engine was off and car was running fine no issues. They said no sense in bringing it in now just set another appointment if it comes back on which it never has and still isn't on but I am wondering if this problem is related to that? I know for sure that the car is still covered under the enhanced warranty for the injectors and intake manifold.
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