Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Little Growl At Lower RPMs
May 30, 2016
I've got a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.2L diesel engine. I was thinking about changing the original filter box to a K&N 2021 air filter.
K&N E-2021 Replacement Air Filter, Replacement Filters
I don't expect more power, the only reason why I want to do this is because the 2.2 Engine does not really sound like a diesel at all. Its way too silent in my opinion. I don't want to have a screaming engine, I also don't drive at high RPM or anything like that, I just want to have a little decent growl at lower RPMs.
I would run into any problems switching to that K&N air filter? I know that its not a "cold air intake", since hot air gets into the engine, but I don't think that's going to cause any problems? Also, as I mentioned, I'm not after more power, just after a little bit more sound in the lower PRMs.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3. On occasions in low gear as it goes to change gear it will seem to cut out, check engine light flashes on then off engine revs as I have foot on accelerator but then everything seems to restart and is fine. Seems to buck for that second or so and is when I have just started a journey. doesn't seem to do it at other times during a trip.
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I pulled out into traffic and let the RPM's get up there (6500 rpm's) and now I've seemed to have developed a weird ticking sound that is in sync with my rpm's. What could I have popped/broken? Rocker arm? I have the SUV sitting in the driveway and it makes the ticking sound whose interval increases as the rpm's increase...?
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Has about 65k miles on it and has regular maintenance and tune ups when needed. It is cared for. The last tune up was about 2k miles ago. Spark plug change, oil change, filters, etc.
I have noticed lately that when the car is moving at idle speeds, it will surge about 200 rpms. It does not happen when the breaks are on or stopped or in park, or moving at higher speeds. It only does it while moving and with no acceleration. It happens in Drive and Reverse.
I live in the city of Lima Peru so a 4x4 is useful but it also requires some tight parking but when it starts to surge, it is a huge pain.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fa GLS. 88K miles. This issue started in the last 6 months, once the engine turns over the RPM drop low and starts to putter as if it is not getting enough fuel. If push down the gas when starting it works. Once it passes the first 2 -3 seconds everything is fine. No issue idling or driving. What this could be? It's not an issue with Starter, Battery, my best guess would be a sensor, leaky fuel injector.
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My parents are having trouble with there 2008 Santa fe 3.3 L. The transmission won't shift and the rpm's climb really high. Does that mean the transmission is going or is it something else.
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The wife has a 2007 Buick Rendezvous that makes loud growl after starting. Doesn't happen immediately, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. I have not been lucky enough to have it make the noise when I have the hood up. But from inside the car it sounds like it's coming from the driver side close to the firewall. I know "belt noise" when I here belt noise. This IS NOT belt noise.
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I have a 1987 Convertible Celica GT, with Manual Transmission. The car will not idle at lower RPM. I had someone look at it, and they have it where it will idle at 2000 RPM, but anything lower than that, and the engine will die when not giving it gas.
The engine accelerates great and runs great at any speed, but if you push in the clutch without giving it gas, it will die, unless the idle speed is cranked up like it is now. What this might be?
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This is not on our F150, but rather our Flex that has the 3.5 Ecoboost.
Recently we have been having a bucking problem at lower rpms. Usually when taking off and hitting a slight grade. Doesn't really have a problem at highway speeds. Usually only on takeoff when it shifts through the gears. If you accelerate more, you can stop it for the moment. Weather doesn't make a difference. Also can feel a slighting surging sometimes and can see it on the tack. Like a 2 sec alternating surge. Doesn't do this all the time though. I have replaced plugs with iridium, gapped at 34.
I also purchased two motorcraft coil packs and installed them in different configurations as to see if I could isolate it. No change. I HAVE NO CEL YET. At all. Wish it would! I have tried to make it buck hard enough to throw the code to no avail. I have heard of condensation in the intercooler, but from what I have read it is a higher RPM symptom..This feels just like the COP problem on my 5.4. Unless I have 3 or 4 bad COPS and no CEL. If I could just get a code.
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Car misses horrible at times at idle and lower RPM's, shakes the whole car. MPG around 32. Runs better when car is fully warmed up. PO171 and PO 300, 301 and 304 codes come up.
Here's what I've done so far to try to correct the problem:
Cleaned mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced plugs and ignitors (coils). No change.
Replaced PCV valve. No change.
Replaced upstream O2 sensor. Same codes come up but MPG increased to 37.
Replaced throttle body. No change.
Car does not miss when accelerating hard. Sometimes runs perfect at idle and lower rpm's, but mpg is way low as it used to be in the 50's or higher. Car idles perfect in neutral. Always runs perfect the first 3-4 seconds when you first start it, then starts shaking. If I put my finger in the throttle body when it's running poorly, apparently disrupting the air flow a bit, the idle smooths to perfect.
I have an extra computer, although I don't know if you have to program the key for it to work. I don't suspect this is the problem anyway. I haven't changed the fuel injectors. I can't hear a vacuum leak.
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I've got a 2001 Honda Civic, automatic, that has a nice (what I think) belt squeal going. It seems to happen when it's wet/cold, in the lower gears/RPMs, when the defroster and/or rear defroster are on. SOMETIMES it will stop when I turn off the defrosters. If it persists I can make it stop by quickly putting it in park (at a light or stop sign) and right back into D or if moving gunning it for a few seconds. Occasionally I do get a hot rubber smell (like a burning vacuum belt) coming through as I accelerate. So as someone with no real car knowledge, does this sound like a belt issue that I can take care or myself (i.e. belt tensioner and a gauge) or should I just leave it to the pros?
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I've never had this happen before or never heard it. but yesterday for the first time as I was driving I could hear a really tin canny sounding rattle. I'm not sure if it was from the wheel well area or under the steering wheel in the dash. I only noticed it when I was at lower RPMs in second gear. (And its not the typical MKIV rattle sounds)...
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So just last night I began having a small issue with my R32. While idling, the RPM's slowly starting getting lower to the point where the car almost stalled, probably in the neighborhood of around 300rpms, then it would slowly increase back to normal idle. It did this a few times then while driving and a steady cruise of 35mph I felt a large power loss for a second or two. This repeated a few times until I got home and parked it. I also noticed that the RPM's would fall much, much faster between shifts than normal during this episode. I drove it a short distance today. It it showed no signs of the same problem. Any possible causes?
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Just bought 2 new F-350 with 6.7s for a service truck and feed truck. I have a 2011 6.7 so pretty familiar with it. I noticed both these new trucks shift at a lot lower RPMs. At times if going from pasture to pasture I have noticed the tach at 900 rpm in 6th gear. My 2011 doesn't do that, it shifts at a higher rpm. Both of the trucks have been deleted, and I have a SCTx4 tuner in each truck and have both tuned to the lowest setting, Tow 40HP. Is this a fuel economy thing?
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Yesterday my mom used my car and the battery light came on while driving, but she didn't really care about it and was driving the whole time on the battery. When she came back home the car was barely even alive I couldn't even start it. I replaced the alternator (duralast from auto zone) and the serpentine belt, but now I have a very rough idle and the rpm's are lower than usual. They are 1500 instead of 1750. Is this normal and eventually it'll go away or did I mess something up?
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About 2 weeks ago, my 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 4.7L, was running fine. The very next morning, it's 4.7l engine has a very obvious misfire situation where it's hesitating badly, especially under acceleration at lower rpms, with the shaking feeling in the steering wheel etc etc. I have Advanced Auto parts and 2 separate auto shops plug in their little boxes to find the problem codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on as soon as this issue began. The codes they got were consistent from place to place: 1. Misfire on cylinders 4 & 6, and 2. Random multiple misfire.
So I go and buy 2 brand new coils for cylinder 4 and 6, and 8 new champion plugs. I was in Florida for a week, so the truck was NOT driven at all after the day this problem began. So I replace all 8 plugs and install the 2 new coils, but it makes NO DIFFERENCE. It's still hesitating just like before. Today I take it to Goodyear to have them do an allegedly thorough evaluation. They use their little code box and they get the same codes as mentioned above about random multiple misfire and misfire on cup 4 and 6.
Then the mechanic takes the truck for a ride and experiences the same hesitation and shaking under acceleration. So he replaces both of the new coils I had installed with their coils and replaced the 2 new plugs, just to make sure there was no issue with these new parts. He takes it out and apparently plugs in a different computer that monitors all engine functions, including air/fuel mixture, spark etc. According to that computer, the truck is running properly(according to them), and he checks compression and says it's good. So what's wrong, and he said that my car's computer was reset so the check engine is no longer on(I am not clear the how's and whys of that part). But the important thing is that it's still running badly and they can't tell me why it's running badly!
The mechanic said maybe a lifter collapsed or there is sludge that's causing an issue, but no solid explanation. Supposedly the 4.7L Dodge engine has a sludge issue experienced by some owners, and the mechanic recommended replacing the oil every 1500 miles instead of 3000. By the way, I asked how much it would cost for Goodyear to check the lifters and check under the valve cover, but he said they don't do that.
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I've been having rather slow throttle response with my 6.0 f250 diesel at lower RPMs. Obviously, this is to be expected to some point.. Whether I'm cruising on the highway or through the neighborhood, if the truck is at lower RPMs and I try to accelerate, it doesn't want to. In order to get it to accelerate, I have to press the gas down enough to downshift it then it'll take off.
The truck doesn't have a loss of power at higher RPMs, it takes off like a bat out of hell. I've put 175CC injectors in, tuned it, power max turbo, EGR deleted / studded, etc. It's almost go out with acceleration, or go turtle power with acceleration.
Oil pump was replaced a couple years ago. This problem existed through it all, and it's rather annoying. The truck doesn't want to produce any low end power. If I try to hit the gas enough to accelerate but not enough to force a downshift, I'll just blow smoke, spool the turbo, and barely accelerate until I down shift or push the truck through it. Turbo PSI is roughly ~15ish-20ish during the sluggish transition.
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I have a 7.3 2003 Excursion. Should I change the gearing in the rear differential to make the truck go faster at lower RPMs? I know that will decrease my towing capability.
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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Soft Pedal. 2004 Santa Fe, front wheel drive 4cyl, 2.4l
When I first owned this Santa Fe the brake pedal was high and had lots of stopping power, over the last few years I noticed the pedal was getting lower. I have replaced everything needed thus far including pads, rotors and everything has recently been serviced front/rear/emergency brake/ calipers and still a soft pedal. Had the guys in our recon shop replace master cylinder and bleed the lines a few times with a full week in between bleeding to ensure there was no air in the lines. The mechanics are stumped but I'm wondering if we missed something...... I still can stop no problem but there is no grab in brakes until pedal is half way down to the floor or worse.
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I am trying to replace my control arm but I am having a few problems,
1. the front bolt on the frame side just spins but doesn't come out.
2. I cant get the bolt in the spindle to come out, I have been hammering away at it and even broke 2 sockets trying to spin it, still cant get it to move.
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