Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Limp Mode - No Response From Throttle?
Sep 26, 2016
Driving on the motorway yesterday, all fine until i lost power..engine light came on, but I was able to continue driving for about 6 miles (trying to get to services) but eventually it would go no further, pulled over and found that the intercooler pipe had come off, replaced it but still no joy.
Recovery van attended and plugged in diagnostic and found a dpf fault and gas pressure valve fault, he cleared the light but i think the faults still remained.. so i had to be recovered home.
The engine will start but it does not quiet sound right, no response from the throttle and if i put it into drive the engine stops.. Its a 2007 2.2
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My 2007 Santa Fe was acting up at one time, then stopped doing it, and recently started again. My wife is the primary driver so I'm not always in the vehicle when it happens. When the vehicle is started cold, it will run a short distance then the MIL comes on and it goes to a 5 mph limp mode. After pulling over and shutting the vehicle completely down for a couple of minutes, it will run normally with the MIL still on. However, by the time I get back home to pull the codes, the MIL goes off. I don't remember the exact codes, but when it acted up last time I believe the codes had something to do with the TPS, Pedal Pos Sensor, and one other I can't remember.
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I'm a little bit stuck here. This happened last night, and the dealer is closed today. I have a 2008 Santa Fe SE. It stalled last night, and when I turned it back on, I got a check engine light, the ESC light, and the AWD transmission light blinking. When I go to accelerate, it will not go passed 2000 RPM, and it is driving very sluggish. Its not knocking, or making any other kind of sounds. The air conditioning does not work, but the fan blows uncooled air. It accelerates extremely slowly, even with the petal mashed.
I plan on taking it in tomorrow, but I'd like to know if there is some way to reset the computer. I tried disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes, but it didn't work.
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I know that sport mode raises the rpm at which shifts occur, but it feels like this mode also makes the throttle response more sensitive. Though, this could be because Sport keeps the needle in the primo range of the power band.
And at the risk of turning this thread into another topic: Does race, either over revving at a light, or just being passes aggressively and stuff like that? This is somewhat geographically dependent. I am originally from PA and live here now and people try and race me all the time, or drive more agressively around me than I feel they otherwise would were in a less sick car.
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I have the SE model and the only button i have is the traction control on/off button. I looked through the menu in the gauge cluster and I come across a "Eco mode indicator" on/off option. I turned it on and now the eco mode light engages when i drive.... I also noticed that the throttle response has been way numbed down and changes gears late. So basically the "indicator light" options is ACTUALLY the "eco mode".... why don't we have a button for this?
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I have been having a problem where the Santa Fe will drive great for a week, sometimes only a day and the engine light will come on and the car will go into limp mode. It will drop you from 65MPH to 10 MPH, if you put it in park the RPM's will race and stomping on the pedal will not affect the RPM's. After you turn it off for a couple of minutes it will drive ok again. I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Accelerator Pedal Sensor, cleaned all connections and checked wires in them. I have also cleaned the Throttle Body. The Dealer wants to replace the Throttle Body.
Had Engine Codes:
P0123 - Throttle Position Sensor 1 Signal Circuit High Imput
P1110 - Throttle Actuator Control System Malfuntion
P0222 - Throttle Position Sensor 2 Signal Circuit Low Imput
P1175 - Electric Throttle Valve Control System (ETS) Valve #
P1196 - Throttle Actuator Control System Limp Home-Stuck
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My wife has a 2006 santa fe 3.5l limited over the winter it started acting up went into limp mode and would only go 20mph so I went and picked up a TP sensor well it went out of limp mode so I never changed the sensor well last month it started doing it again so I changed it out didn't work!!! comes up with 2 codes sometimes p2110 and p2118 but normally its p2110 2 times.
If I hit the break it kinda bogs down and pulsates.i took it to my mechanic since I couldn't figure it out and with advice from a hyundai mech. He changed APS didn't fix it so we changed throttle body with used of course didn't work I checked wires and didn't fined any open circuits what are the chances that i got a bad APS or TPS...
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About a week ago my 2002 santa fe suddenly lacked performance and the check engine light came on . At the same time I noticed the speedometer stopped registering. I later discovered the poor performance was due to the fact that the vehicle was in 3rd gear "limp" mode. The code generated is 1602 "failure to communicate between the ecu and transmission control module". At this point I hoping its just a faulty speed sensor that's causing the problem and not the transmission control module.
Does it indeed sound like a bad speed sensor or does it sound like a faulty TCM or could it be a break in the wires between the ECU and TCM? Also, is it safe to drive the vehicle in limp mode until i replace the part later this week?
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I have a Korean spec 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2L R-eVGT 6AT 4WD. Around a year ago it started to go into limp mode i had it checked and the error code was p0488 (EGR) Throttle Control Circuit A Range / Performance.
It has gradually become more frequent to the extent it goes into limp mode within a a minute or so . so far the dealer has changed the EGR valve, TCM , the whole turbo assembly and it is no different. They have also stripped and cleaned the intake manifold and egr cooler.
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I have an issue with my 2004 2.7 Santa Fe. I keep getting fault codes P0335 and P1372, the engine then goes into limp mode and is very hard to start.
So far I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor, the MAF sensor, the spark plugs, new ignition coils and leads.
I have traced the wiring and found no shorts, the only thing which does not match the service manual is that I get 5v on the CKPS sensor wire when the ignition is on, it said it should be 0V.
The car can sometimes run for 50+miles with no issues - then stalls with codes P0335 and P1372. I have a feeling its worse when the aircon is on but cant be 100% certain/
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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I have a 2005 2.7L Santa Fe that was shifting poorly and getting stuck in limp mode intermittently. I read up on it and found that it was probably an issue with the input/output speed sensors. The codes confirmed my suspicions and I replaced both the input and output sensors. The codes cleared and the tranny shifted like a dream. Unfortunately after 2 days and 100+ miles the car suddenly started down shifting randomly on my way home from work. The CEL came back on and the car went into limp mode. Could the sensor have gone bad again? Or could it be the wiring harness that plugs into one of the sensors? I don't understand why the car would be fine for a few days and then all of a sudden be acting the same way.
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33K and no problems until this morning. Wife gets 400 yards down the street, car "lurches" and goes into limp mode. Transmission won't shift out of whatever gear its stuck in (going forward) Car will back up. Only indication of any possible trouble is occasionally the very first time the transmission shifts in the morning from 1st into 2nd its a little spirited rather than silky smooth.
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My 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
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I have a 2007 Prius and it will be my first car once I get my license. It has a bad traction control computer and is stuck in limp mode. I have a neighbor who has worked on these and will show me how to replace it. Right now I have two questions. I keep coming up with how to disable it not the actual part.
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2007 F350 6.0L 230,000 miles
Yesterday, while driving home from a weekend out of town trip, all of sudden lost throttle control. Just went to idle while at cruise speeds, could pump pedal and no response. Then got pedal control back and seemed to run normally.
This happened several times. Hubby suggested moving the adjustable pedal which I did slightly. Although I was not using the cruise control, we had a sense that maybe it was engaging??? So I hit the off button a couple of times. After these two interventions, drove the last 80 miles home with no further incidents.
Today, we checked codes and had a PO231, Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. I don't think that is our problem with above based on research, but we will look into fixing that too. We are thinking TPS or a position sensor on the accelerator pedal. We could replace those easily ourselves.
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The other day, I had occasion to try to start my '08 Ltd, and there was no starter response to the key. Everything lit up and didn't dim when turning the key. Jiggled the key a few times, no change. Jiggled the shift lever a few times, no change. Turned the key a few more times, and it started. Yes, the vehicle was definitely in Park at the time.
This one has an automatic, so I'm assuming it was either a shift interlock switch (aka Neutral Safety Switch) or possibly the ignition switch itself, but as noted, neither responded to my ham handed approach to solving the problem. First time, it took about half a dozen start attempts. The second time, only three.
Haven't had the problem since then, but then again, I haven't been cycling the ignition as much as I was that day (probably 20 start stop cycles). Now I'm just wondering where and when it will bite me again. Some of the places I take this vehicle to the boonies in the Rocky Mountains would cost me dearly in tow charges.
Encountered this on an earlier CM model? I don't recall ever seeing this mentioned here over the years.
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My wife was driving to work this morning in her 08 Santa Fe (2.7) and said she had very little/no response when stepping on the gas.
Check engine, ESC off, and the AWD light (drivetrain light) were all illuminated.
She turned the car off and when she turned it back on, only the CEL remained illuminated - it drove better, but still rough.
AutoZone pulled the codes and we've got P1295, P2106, and P2135.
From what I've seen on this site, it sounds like the TPS - would those codes be consistent with that issue?
Also, since we're just out of warranty, is that something I can fix myself? Looks like a pretty easy part to replace ... but I've heard there's something about have to flash the ECM?
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
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I have a concern about my 2010 Prius V(five). I've noticed some issues lately that may all tie in to one big problem.
1. My ev mode will not work at all. My battery will be fully charged and not in "B" mode. Turning car off and on will not work.
2. Engine will not turn off when coming to stops. Mind you when the battery is above 3 lines.
3. Throttle response feels like it's in PWR mode(super sensitive) but the engine is leggy. If I floor it for a sec the RPMS are super slow to come down.
4. The Eco line is quick to go in PWR portion and I'm not pushing it any harder than I was before all of this started. It seems like when I push the gas it skips the electric and automatically pulls from the engine.
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