Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Intermittent Hum / Rumble Coming From Front Of The Car
Sep 7, 2010
On Sunday, I was driving on the highway and noticed an intermittent hum/rumble which seemed like it was coming from the front of the car. At first, I thought it was due to the road quality where you encounter cuts/cracks in the road which could cause similar hum/rumble. The condition of the road changed over to a brand new smooth surface for several miles. I noticed that the same hum/rumble was still there.
I'm not sure how else to describe this?... The tires would go through several rotations before each hum/rumble. For example, x = tire rotations and y = hum/rumble.
xxx y xxx y xxx y xxx y ...very similar to driving on rumble strips that have been placed on the road.
When I got off the highway I also noticed that this hum/rumble would occur during regular driving speeds.
I checked tire pressure all around and all was fine. Took a quick peek underneath and could not spot anything out of the ordinary.
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I have a 2007 CRDi Santa Fe with 135k on the clock. Regularly serviced however in the past year we've heard a rumble / vibration coming from the vehicle.
Location feels / sounds underneath driver / front passenger footwells and only occurs on strenuous acceleration i.e off a round about going up hill. It doesn't occur at any other time.
It's been in and out of the Dealership but they haven't been able to replicate the problem.
Just recently I went to overtake another vehicle at around 100kmh when I lost all drive to the wheels. The engine was running normally, there were no warning lights on the dash but no matter how hard I pressed the accelerator i had no forward drive other than coasting.
I wondered if the exhaust was loose or an exhaust or other supporting bracket had failed but as previously mentioned the Dealership can't find the problem?
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I have now had the first major issue with my 2012 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD. It started out with an intermittent low oil pressure light coming on at idle. As I researched I found the Oil Pressure Switch thread:
Oil Pressure Switch Replacement - 2010 Santa Fe 3.5L
And using that information I proceeded to replace the switch and while the switch had obviously failed unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I tore everything down a second time to make sure the replacement switch hadn't failed and to make sure it wasn't leaking. Turns out that everything looked good yet the oil pressure light was still coming on after everything was warmed up.
Tonight I tore everything down for a third time to put an extension hose on the oil pressure port so I could hook up a mechanical pressure gauge in addition to the oil switch. While I am very pleased with how the extension hose worked out, however it appears that I do indeed have low oil pressure. Without letting it warm up completely I was dropping down below 15psi.
I guess at this point my best case scenario is a malfunctioning oil pump and worst case is worn bearings. With only 67k miles and fairly religious oil changes I am praying for the oil pump. My next step is to contact the dealer as I am still under the powertrain warranty, hopefully that goes well. I will try to keep this thread updated as I learn more. Up to this point I have really enjoyed the Santa Fe and have had minimal issues with it.
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Our 2007 Grand Caravan with a 3.3 Liter Engine has intermittent vibration which feels similar to driving over rumble bars. It usually occurs between 30-50 mph but sometimes at 70-80 mph as well. Have had the suspension checked and had outer tie rod end replaced. Also had sway bar bushings replaced and front end aligned. We then brought it to transmission shop and had a transmission diagnostic performed. They found no faults with the transmission and thought the engine needed a tune-up which we did with no success. At a recent oil change, we asked for them to test drive it and check again for any suspension problems. They did not notice any vibration during the test drive and found no problems with the suspension.
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I have a 2007 SF Ltd. About 6 months ago I noticed a tiny grinding noise coming from the front end. I took it to the place that installed the brakes and rotors and had them look at it. The said that they didn't see anything but the cleaned up the rotors and oiled the slide pins. That didn't seem to sold the problem, so I took it to the shop that does all my inspections and such. They mentioned that they didn't see anything and that if if was only first thing in the morning, it might be some very minor rust that is building and being worn off. Lately, the grinding noise has gotten much more consistent and loud. Both places said the pads looked almost new and other than the turning of the rotors, they looked fine. If it isn't the pads or the rotors, what could be causing the grinding noise? A friend of mine had the same issue but his dealer told him that his vehicle "just had noisy brakes". That doesn't see to be an acceptable answer.
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I can't find the obd port on my new 2007 SF. Also there is a clunking coming from the front suspension when i go over bumps, what is the most common cause of this?
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I just bought a 2006 (mk2) Santa Fe 2.2 CDX manual.Overall I'm pleased with the car but I have noticed over the past week of ownership a whining noise coming from under the floor area towards the front (I think). The noise only occurs around the 20mph mark ( no other speed) and is there whether I'm in gear or just coasting.The car has done 43000 (so not high mileage) has a full service history and only one owner prior to me. It does have a tow bar (which I wanted) just I case this may be relevant.
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My 8-year-old (2003), 134k mile Nissan Maxima has a new quirk. When the car is started from completely cold (as in over night), there is a distinctive intermittent squeaking noise (think water being rubbed against glass) coming from the left front somewhere near the tire. The car only does this for about 5 minutes or so until it's warmed up and it has to be going 20 miles an hour before it starts. Once the car is up and running you can turn it on and off all day, let it sit for a few hours even, and it's fine. What's going on?
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When I start my vehicle, it makes a grinding noise, sounds like it's coming from the front of the vehicle, when I put into gear it stops. It started gradual and is getting worse. It's a 6 cylinder automatic, with 108 k miles.
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Rumble whoosh noise (her description,,, I am currently in another State) coming from my wife's vehicle in the front of the engine compartment. Closer to the passenger side near the water pump. Noise has been present for the last six months, but would always go away after it was warmed up. During winter (In Tucson AZ so never gets too cold), it is worse due to the cold weather. Previously only happened at low RPMs and ended to be worse when turning a corner.Today it occurred also after operation for a quite beyond starting of the vehicle, and is starting to sound like the failure of bearings. Also a burning smell was occurring.Just replaced both the water pump and the alternator, and the front struts. The water pump is not leaking but the old pumps leaks are still evident. The current mechanic trying to troubleshoot is stumped. Motor mounts are getting close to failure, but still appear to not be a problem. CV joints are fine. What to look at?
2006 Toyota Rav4 4X4 4 Cylinder....
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I get this loud click noise coming from the front end of my vehicle when I apply the brakes. It seems to happen much more often than not, especially at low speeds. I can only describe it as some sort of loud clicky clanky sound, it's also a single sound, it doesn't go on and on and it only happens when I apply the brakes.
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Car: 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTPEngine: 3.8L SuperchargedMileage: 94,300 miles
Issue : Usually after driving the car for a long period of time (approx 20 miles or more), Ill begin to hear a grinding coming from the front of the car. The grinding/ groaning can be felt in the gas pedal as well. Depending how hard I hit the gas the frequency increases. I am not sure if this is associated with the grinding, but i noticed that when I turn sharply and go easy on the gas and progressively add pressure the car will cut out until i cut straighten the wheel. Then all the power I requested is applied all at once.
What the locals think :
CV Shafts - Sears told me the first time i went to get them checked that my CV shaft boot was a little loose, suggested changing it. Then I went back two weeks later and they denied saying that and said my cv shafts were fine. (talk about confusing)
Wheel Bearings - Someone I know said my wheel bearing could be slipping or my traction control could be on its way out, so i replaced both front bearings.
Tune up - Someone suggested it could be mis-firing, with it coming up on 100,000 miles, i did a tune up. (plugs, wires, coil packs)
Transmission - Someone said the transmission could be going bad. So i did a flush and inspected the fluid, no shavings or any sign of extreme wear. (car shifts great too.)
Clogged Catalytic converter - the cat was clogged, two new 02 sensors and a new cat didn't even solve the issue I am describing, but it does have more power now.
Throttle Body - Someone said it could be a dirty throttle body....so i had that cleaned also.
And finally, some electric temperature sensor - someone said it wasn't getting the right fuel mixture, so i replaced the sensor to remedy that.
Fuel pressure was also tested to ensure the fuel pump was doing its job, everything checked out great
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I've got a 2008 santa fe limited 3.3 awd with about 170000 km on it. Lately when I brake I've been hearing a clicking noise coming from what sounds like the driver side front wheel area.
Had it in to my mechanic who checked the brakes and said that pads/calipers/rotors were all fine. They replaced the passenger side front bearing on the lower control arm a few weeks ago and said there is no play or noise coming from any other suspension components.
Where to look next? My mechanic isn't sure what it is so I was going to take it to the dealer and see if they can fix it. Also had new tires installed about a month ago
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I noticed while driving my car there was a unusual rumble or grinding sound coming from my drivers side front wheel well. I get out and look I see a bunch of Fluid all over my wheel well. I look around turn my wheel around and see this fluids all on my rotors and suspension. Ive noticed couple weeks back the boots on the struts were ripped in two pieces from deteriorating or dry rotting (this was on both sides) and ive also been hearing some odd squeaking sound for over 15k miles every once in a while going over big bumps or train tracks. Struts go out at only 80k miles on their corolla? Yeah struts do usually lose their life around 60-80k miles but I've never seen them leak around that many miles. Is this a common issue?
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3. We bought it used with 24k on it about 5 1/2 years ago. I've uploaded a zipped mp4 of the sound that comes from the area of the AC. The sound was recorded from the passenger seat as it never seems to do it when I'm ready with the hood up.
So far the car has had 4 compressors in 72k miles. The first burnt out the clutch, as did the second a year later. This noise is intermittent, but is getting more frequent and worse. The noise started about a year ago, 3 years after the 3rd compressor install, the compressor was changed out but the noise came back 2 days later so I'm guessing it wasn't that. It only happens when the AC is engaged and doesn't change with the speed of the fan. I'm more concerned as the extended warranty is coming to an end, 75k, and the mechanics really seem stumped.
For those without audio it's a really hard noise to describe. It starts of with almost a low thump and then turns into a resonating metallic screeching. If I turn off the fan or the AC, the noise stops and I can turn them back on a few seconds later and it all sounds normal for a while.
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When I drive my 2010 santa fe. I get a noise that sounds like i have a flat tire in the back. It is intermittent and starts at any speeds. But when you stop the vehicle and start again the noise is gone. The mechanics at Hyundai replace replace a part for the all wheel drive but that did not fix the problem.
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Problem I have been noticing with my 2010 v6 Santa Fe.
I first noticed a vibration that appears to come from the drive train late last winter and only seems to happen on colder mornings. It comes across like I am driving on a rough road. If I am simply rolling without a lot of acceleration there is no vibration, but once I step on the gas and add power the vibration starts and will continue until I let off the gas. It is not an alignment issue as that has already been checked and eliminated as a cause.
Once the vehicle warms up, the problem goes away. This makes it very tough to demonstrate the problem as by the time I drive to the dealer the problem is gone. Guess Ill need to pick a cold day and leave it there overnight so they can see the problem. Had a very similar issue years ago on my old Nissan Pathfinder which was eventually traced to a the 4 wheel hub system.
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For the last two days I've had a very intermittent (tck, tck, tck) sound coming from what sounds like the glove compartment area. It has a rep rate of around three times a second and is very regular. It sounds like a relay to me. It has only lasted less than 20 seconds on each occurrence so don't have time to troubleshoot. I took that area apart and I see two 12volt 25 amp what look like relays just to the right of the glove compartment. I've left that area torn apart so if it happens again I can feel the relays and get it down to one-and or eliminate them as the cause of the noise.
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My 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
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My 2010 Santa Fe has an intermittent all window condensation problem, regardless whether the car has been idle overnight or whilst driving it has occurred on numerous occasions. In one case in the morning I had to use a towel to dry the inside windows. I have tried leaving the heater / AC on various settings but it still occurs. I have noticed that the door windows when I open / close them the seals do not touch the glass. In the short term the AC and fast windscreen/rear window buttons do clear the moisture but it does re-occur especially whilst driving...
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I have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
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